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Discussion Starter #1
i did a search, but couldnt find what i was looking for.

so, besides the Olympic rear light bar:





where are you mounting aux backup lights? i had these on my Xterra:



and they worked great up there, i had them on a switch so besides backing up, i also used the lights for camping and when i would get to the boat ramp after dark, they were really helpful for putting the boat in the trailer and removing rods and tackle from the boat, way better than using headlamps....

so, i would like to add rear aux lights to my jeep. but i need them as high as possible so they light the boat. mounting them on the bumper would be useless for the boating purposes.... i wont have a roof rack, so thats not an option. so far, the 3 options i have found are:

1) olympic bar pictured above
2) custom bracket on top of the third brake light
3) in the middle of the spare tire

where did you mount yours??
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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You could place it up higher, depending on how your plate mount is setup up, I have a built in plate light that is taking up room on top so that option was out for me. If you have a different plate light like the ORO, then you probably have room to move it up.

This was my old setup, I modified a Bestop Trail Rack to hold a set of Rigid D1 floods, that worked pretty well too, the only complaint was the gate had to be completely opened to get the hardtop window open or it would smack the back of the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanx, thats more or less what i had in mind, but i was thinking about mounting them to the third brake light... yours look more solid, and almost in the same place i wanted to put mine, so i think i could go that way... i have the stock tire carrier so i will have to think how to bolt something in there...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanx, i forgot to mention, im keeping the stock tire carrier on the tailgate for now...

Jonboy, a pic would be great whenever you have time, thank you.
 

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I had originally started DIY'ing a 3rd brake light relocation in the center cap of my OEM spare tire using a "beehive" lens and an LED board from Radiantz.

Midway through that project, I realized I'd really prefer to have an auxiliary backup light, and leave the OEM 3rd brake light where it is.

I'm considering getting a clear "beehive" lens:

(without the bracket, obviously...)

and putting a round white LED board behind it, in the center cap of the spare tire. It wouldn't be anything high-powered, but it'd be enough for what I would do with it...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well, after looking at the scrap material i had laying around and thinking about it for a while, this is what i came up with.... its tightly bolted to the third brake light bracket, so it doesnt rattles at all.... as previously mentioned, the only drawback is that the gate needs to be opened almost completely for the window to clear the lights... other than that, i like it....





 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanx Uncle...

now, i have one question regarding the switches.... since i wanted to be able to use the lights even without the key in the ignition, i ran a wire from the battery directly to the switches.... i have both the front and rear aux lights on relays, with fuses, and the interior accent led strips have a fuse but not relay....

now, there are 3 switches to control these 3 lights, but the thing is, when they are ON, any of them, even the 2 led strips which should draw very little current, the corresponding switch gets hot.... not hot enough to burn, but considerably hotter than what you could call "warm"....

is this normal?? is this safe??

thanx!!
 

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....is this normal?? is this safe??
If the switches do not have a light on them (an 'on' indicator) then this is not normal. The heat is coming from a loss of power through resistance. A switch should have extremely low resistance and therefore not build any heat.

Without any further information, I would say you need to upgrade to a better quality switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If the switches do not have a light on them (an 'on' indicator) then this is not normal. The heat is coming from a loss of power through resistance. A switch should have extremely low resistance and therefore not build any heat.

Without any further information, I would say you need to upgrade to a better quality switch.
well, they do have a light indicator which turns ON with the switch in the ON position... i have used those same switches in other cars, always for light applications, without any problems... i cant remember if they also got hot though...
 
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