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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im going to be installing my arb comp and tire inflation kit this weekend the install looks pretty simple, but im having a hard time figuring out how and where i need to mount my compresser switch? I have a 2011 with the new interior. Im going to need another place to mount my front arb air locker switch as well. I was thinking of maybe cutting some small slots in the lower driver side dash right above the speaker. It would also leave a little room for me to add light switches in the future. What are you 2011 guys doing? If you have any pictures you would like to share that would be really helpful as well :beer:
 

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The mount has 4 precut (sort of) holes for carling style switches. I wouldn't buy Rugged Ridge switches as they are expensive and frankly I don't like the look of them. The ARB compressor and locker both come with their own carling style switches. Follow ARBs directions because they basically make it a plug and play affair. For the other two switches, you could wire up whatever you want and would dictate how it's wired. Carling style switches can be picked up all sorts of places, and they even have some with no writing that looks just like the ARB ones if you're anal.

Personally, I currently have ARB compressor and locker switches going there in my '12 and two 3 position carling switches for lights. The 3 position is so I can run multiple things off one switch. For instance, one switch will be wired to my LED bar. One position is off, one is on, one is on only with high beam headlights activated. So if I'm on the road I can just dim my headlights as normal and it would also kill my LED bar. The other switch will be mounted to windshield mounted LEDs that are pointed to the side. Flip the switch one way, and it'll light up the left side, center is off, flip to right and it'll turn the right LED. I also have a small button on / off switch I plan to stick onto the side of the A pillar mount that when pushed will illuminate both side facing lights at the same time instead of one or the other.
 

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Could you wire there switches up the same as the arb switches? Sorry ive never installed anything like this so im new to wiring up things.
To be more clear on your specific question, it wouldn't be a plug and play like it would with the ARB switches, but you could make it work. I wouldn't though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The mount has 4 precut (sort of) holes for carling style switches. I wouldn't buy Rugged Ridge switches as they are expensive and frankly I don't like the look of them. The ARB compressor and locker both come with their own carling style switches. Follow ARBs directions because they basically make it a plug and play affair. For the other two switches, you could wire up whatever you want and would dictate how it's wired. Carling style switches can be picked up all sorts of places, and they even have some with no writing that looks just like the ARB ones if you're anal.

Personally, I currently have ARB compressor and locker switches going there in my '12 and two 3 position carling switches for lights. The 3 position is so I can run multiple things off one switch. For instance, one switch will be wired to my LED bar. One position is off, one is on, one is on only with high beam headlights activated. So if I'm on the road I can just dim my headlights as normal and it would also kill my LED bar. The other switch will be mounted to windshield mounted LEDs that are pointed to the side. Flip the switch one way, and it'll light up the left side, center is off, flip to right and it'll turn the right LED. I also have a small button on / off switch I plan to stick onto the side of the A pillar mount that when pushed will illuminate both side facing lights at the same time instead of one or the other.
Thanks for the info man. So all i would need is rugged ridge a pillar mount without their switches and my carling style switches will go right in is that correct? Also on your arb compressior did you run your wires threw the passenger side fire wall or the driver? How did you run your wires up to the a pillar mount anything on the dash that had to come off?
 

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Thanks for the info man. So all i would need is rugged ridge a pillar mount without their switches and my carling style switches will go right in is that correct? Also on your arb compressior did you run your wires threw the passenger side fire wall or the driver? How did you run your wires up to the a pillar mount anything on the dash that had to come off?
There is a hole in the firewall behind the access panel on the side of the dash. Take a long screwdriver and poke a hole through the foam and push the wire though. The switches are mounted only a few inches above this hole. You'll have to remove the factory a pillar plastic cover and replace it with the Rugged Ridge one. The wires just run behind the plastic. It's all pretty simple once you look at it. I still haven't finished up all mine as I need to get the LED wiring finished up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There is a hole in the firewall behind the access panel on the side of the dash. Take a long screwdriver and poke a hole through the foam and push the wire though. The switches are mounted only a few inches above this hole. You'll have to remove the factory a pillar plastic cover and replace it with the Rugged Ridge one. The wires just run behind the plastic. It's all pretty simple once you look at it. I still haven't finished up all mine as I need to get the LED wiring finished up.
Where's a good place to get this a pillar switch panel? Thanks again for your help man
 

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Any of the venders here can probably get it for you. I know I've seen a handful of threads of vendors offering them. Look in the vendors section.


I ordered mine off Amazon though. I'm a Prime member so get free shipping so that's why I ordered it there.

Either way, should be able to get one for around 25 to 30 bucks.
 
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