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I put B&M's shift lever, #46200, in my '14 and topped it with their black plastic t-handle. I'll use the B&M “ball” the lever came with on the transfer case as soon as I find a 3/8-16 die to cut some threads.

The shifts feel better, they're shorter and the lever doesn't flop around. Elbow on the console, it's all in the wrist.

This is a recent addition, like a day ago. Still getting used to it but one issue is, sometimes, when I don't know what gear I'm in and have my hand off the shifter, it takes a quick look to find it...or I can flop my hand around 'til I hit it. Muscle memory, when it develops, will fix that.
 

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Random Dude
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3,041 Posts
I have the B&M short-throw shifter and shift lever.

Shifter Pros:
  • Shorter throw is welcome, especially with my setup (1" body lift)
  • Good fit & finish - I was happy with what I got
  • Made in USA :usa: :rockon:
Shifter Cons:
  • The detents are super-heavy to help folks with trannies popping out of gear
  • It was pricey :eek: :nono:
The shift lever was a nice upgrade from my solid-mounted shift lever - regaining an NVH isolator made the Jeep much nicer inside. It's also far more firm than the factory flippity-floppity NVH isolator.

If not for the heavy detents on the short-throw shifter, I'd absolutely love the geometry of the shift lever. It put the shift knob in the same location I'd ended up at on my solid-mounted shifter after a few optimizing bending adjustments:


Because of the heavy detents, I wanted more leverage. For ~20 bucks, I tried a few options out:


. . . and settled on this one:

Offset to the right to center the knob where it "should" be, and back a bit so I don't punch the dash while shifting.

EDIT: and up a few inches to gain the desired increase in leverage :beer:
 

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Random Dude
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How many miles on the shifter?
They say it takes some breaking in...
Dunno offhand, about a year (now as a non-daily driver) so 3-5K miles?

I'd bet it's fully broken in at this point, and was after the first ~thousand miles. The side-side is a roller on a ramp, and the fore-aft has ball bearings for detents dropping part-way into machined holes. Nothing's gritty, they just have super-heavy springs.

If I ever pulled it out to "fix", I'd swap lighter springs in or grind a bit of preload off the springs they installed. That's highly unlikely because I'm happy enough with it as-modified and I have too much other crap that needs a-doin' :D
 

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513 Posts
I got the B&M trans shift lever for my G238 / hemi swap. Modified the G238 shift stub to match the stock NSG370. Also ordered a set of knobs and thread adapters from Speed Dawgs. They added the 2L to the TC knob to match the Teraflex 2wd-low kit.


Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
 

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Been running the B&M shifter and lever for roughly two years and 35,000 miles on a 2013 JK. Took a little getting used to but I would never go back. Shifting is still firm, lever movement is negligible and although a little pricey, I would install it again!
 

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Don't have that

Maybe that shifter is for a really strong man since its metal but personally, I prefer leather since my hands would usually get cold and wet :(
 

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Random Dude
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Maybe that shifter is for a really strong man since its metal but personally, I prefer leather since my hands would usually get cold and wet :(
Are you drunk? :dunno:

None of the shift knobs/ handles (the part you touch with your hand) pictured in this thread are metal.

. . . and I'd be really interested to see you post a shifter or shift lever made of leather :laughing:
 
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