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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my GF got me the Rugged Ridge front bumper light bar for Xmas and I'm planning on doing the install tomorrow. I will be adding 3 hella 500FF's to it. I have the Rugged Ridge A-pillar switchset up that I'll be using along with it. My question is on running the wiring.

http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=75
I had previously used this set up on my 2000 XJ and tho it was a little time consuming, I loved the result. Im not an electrician by any means but I can handle step by step setups.
Here are my questions:
Any reason why i shouldnt use a similar set up on the JK? (obviously without having to build my own switch box)
Can anyone suggest any improvements to make it more fitting for the JK?
Can anyone suggest a good location to moutn the power box?
How much bacon will i need to consume to properly complete this project?
 

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Theres only one problem with the sPOD. It is way over priced. You can easily wire in relays and make a holder for them and all that jazz.


Message spread by Paul Revere
 

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Theres only one problem with the sPOD. It is way over priced. You can easily wire in relays and make a holder for them and all that jazz.


Message spread by Paul Revere
With a pre-wired switch panel with an oem fit and finish? With built in fuses, relays, mounting brackets and hardware, optional air gauge, optional low voltage cut off? For those nervous about electrical know-how the sPOD is priceless.

Sorry to get off topic OP.
 

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I did make a relay/box/fuse holder for somewhere in the $140 mark. 6 fuses, relays and all the wiring, plus my time. I do have the switch panel from S-Pod. In the new year I will be getting the rest of the S-Pod. If you can make your own, it's not a bad thing. I'm just trying to keep everything clean under the hood.
 

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Spartan, that will work fine in a JK. The only challenge will be cutting the project box to mate with the windshield frame trim contour.

Since you've done this before, you obviously understand that you need relays on the other end to actually activate your loads (lights, compressor, etc..) as the Cat-5 cable cannot carry enough current to activate them directly.

The main difference between your XJ and the JK is CANBUS signalling. If you are feeding any of the switches or relay coils from the OEM wiring -- as you might do when triggering fog or driving lights off your headlights -- remember you need to put a capacitor and diode across the relay coil. This is needed to reduce the CANBUS signaling (which will cause relay chatter) and protect the ECM from any reverse voltage spikes (caused when the relay coil de-energizes). It is not necessary to use a diode on the relay coil to protect the LED indicator on your switches, as an LED is a diode already.

The sPod is a nice piece of equipment, and offers a lot of flexibility in a plug-and-play system. But if you know what you're doing you can DIY an equivalent system for at least 25% less. The trade-off is your time and effort. Finding an appropriate-size, waterproof enclosure that will fit your relays and provide a mounting surface for all the connectors needed can be challenging. Plano makes some watertight fishing utility boxes that are worth a look in this role. Then look at the NTI waterproof RJ45 Jack/Cable components for feeding-in signal (http://bit.ly/vF8Qjt). The remainder of the connections can be made using through-wires sealed with grommets and RTV sealant, or gland connectors (http://bit.ly/v8RSm0). Accel, Delphi and MSD make watertight wiring connectors.

AFAIK, sPod's system ends at the under hood controller box. You are on your own for making and routing the wiring harnesses necessary to send power to your loads. So whether you use sPod or DIY, keeping your engine compartment clean, organized as safe will still require effort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That waterproof Cat-5 cable is nice. I've never seen that before

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