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If you drill out your current knuckle or buy one of the aftermarket offerings you still mount either to the top of the knuckle.

The one in that photo is in desperete need of a drag link flip.
The photo was just a quick google image search. Its not even a JK. I was being lazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The more I read, the more "install once" really hits home...especially since I'm buying a lot of parts off jump (track bars etc), dropping the stabilizer for now as well.
Alright so I'm really thinking of just returning the TF 2.5" kit and try to spend a LITTLE more on a 3-3.5" kit without shocks or trackbars etc (as I have all that coming)
kind of hard to find one without shocks to be honest that's reasonably priced, seeing as how I spent $650 on that TF kit I'm willing to go up to $1000...will update if I find something suitable.
 

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The higher you go the moer you need. better to start on the 2.5" kit and expand from there. No reason to build higher than you need as it really does not gain you anything.
Typically a 2.5" build and 35's will run you around $3000. A build of 37" on a 3.5"-4" lift will run you around $10K, $40's $25-$30K This does not generally include shop labor if you cant do the build yourself.

Theses are not made up cost to scare you, it is typically what it will cost to do a qulaity reliable build that is safe and comfortable to drive both on road and off. People try and take shortcuts, buy low quality junk, and cut corners to save a dollor here and there but end up spending $3 to fix those mistakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The higher you go the moer you need. better to start on the 2.5" kit and expand from there. No reason to build higher than you need as it really does not gain you anything.
Typically a 2.5" build and 35's will run you around $3000. A build of 37" on a 3.5"-4" lift will run you around $10K, $40's $25-$30K This does not generally include shop labor if you cant do the build yourself.

Theses are not made up cost to scare you, it is typically what it will cost to do a quality reliable build that is safe and comfortable to drive both on road and off. People try and take shortcuts, buy low quality junk, and cut corners to save a dollor here and there but end up spending $3 to fix those mistakes.
ok ok
I'm sticking with the 2.5", and just building up from there as needed.
+this isn't a Rubicon, I'm kicking myself in the ass for that.

Is this more than I expected? Yes.
I'm still all in though.
 

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ok ok
I'm sticking with the 2.5", and just building up from there as needed.
+this isn't a Rubicon, I'm kicking myself in the ass for that.

Is this more than I expected? Yes.
I'm still all in though.
Rubicon is mostly a label people like to say. Most the time people modify it enough that its no longer a Rubicon.
Like changing to an Atlas, upgrading axles and so on.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Rubicon is mostly a label people like to say. Most the time people modify it enough that its no longer a Rubicon.
Like changing to an Atlas, upgrading axles and so on.
I've seen that, but I was hoping to avoid all that in my first one. A rubicon with 44 on the front and better gearing was just the way to go (plus I had one for a better deal that I just couldn't get to in time)
Sahara it is + I get to build this my way
 

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Start at 2.5" lift and buy quality parts. I'm bias and love my Metalcloak lift. I would also look at Synergy or Clayton if you aren't interested in MC stuff. After I wasted money monkeying around with used parts, I started with 35s, 2.5" MC springs and Rancho drop brackets because I paid $40 for new ones on CL (various shocks along the way). I later added 6Pak shocks (knowing that I was going to build in stages) and all 8 MC control arms. I upgraded almost everything while remaining at 2.5" lift; driveshafts, high caster axle housing, draglink flip, brakes, gears, etc. Now I have MC overline flares and 37s and 3.5" lift with the original MC springs and 1" coil spring spacers. I will eventually replace the springs with 3.5" MC springs when the old ones wear out. I'm very happy with my parts and I like that I can buy individual pieces and wait until MetalCloak has a flash sale.

I'm sure there are very nice alternative brands but MC makes sense for me. My suspension is very supple and quiet without any harshness. I am now modifying my suspension to correct shortcoming to geometry but will continue to use as many MC parts and Duroflex bushings. The Duraflex bushing require minimal maintenance until you get to extreme use and can be serviced with a rubber mallet and good quality snap ring pliers.

If you live in a harsh climates with salted roads don't depend on the gold plating and paint the parts for more protection. Even though I like MC suspension; I do think there are better steering options available although you are still getting good parts from MC.
 
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She's pretty, any reason for the stock bumpers? seeing a lot of people staying with them just curious. I've already switched to steel both front and rear for the D rings and a winch.

I've still got all this coming: can still change but seems ok so far?
  • TF 2.5"
  • Rancho geometry brackets
  • 9000xl shocks (decided I'm just gonna rust proof them, they really seem to be the best value for money if you can get around the rust, gonna be tough)
  • DV8 front and rear adjustable track bars
  • Exhaust spacer (heard it wasn't 100% necessary, but why not)
  • Still deciding on which steering stabilizer
  • Control arms down the line

The whole idea is, if I decide to go higher down the line, it's doable with just a few parts. Teraflex 2.5" seems reasonable for that.
still planning on 35x12.5x17
I still have the stock bumpers cause I haven't found any deals on any yet. If I get around to it, I'd change my fender flares first so I could open up my travel on my bumpstops without rubbing (I could get another 1" if I didn't care about contacting the flares)

As far as drag link and tie rod. Mine were original and worn out (even though I only have 40k miles on it). I went MC because I was happy with the lift. No complaints about it. I didn't get to deep into any of the geometry or anything these guys are talking about. it works

I will say I actually got about 3.5" of lift because I don't have any steel armor or bumpers.

Biggest problem I've had is keeping all the bolting tight. Every ~2k I'll crawl under and hit stuff with a rubber mallet, the sound will tell me if anything is loose. I'll get one or two that need to be torque each time.

Nobody talks about the extra maintenance after the lift. Am I the only one that experiences this?
 
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Discussion Starter #32
I still have the stock bumpers cause I haven't found any deals on any yet. If I get around to it, I'd change my fender flares first so I could open up my travel on my bumpstops without rubbing (I could get another 1" if I didn't care about contacting the flares)

As far as drag link and tie rod. Mine were original and worn out (even though I only have 40k miles on it). I went MC because I was happy with the lift. No complaints about it. I didn't get to deep into any of the geometry or anything these guys are talking about. it works

I will say I actually got about 3.5" of lift because I don't have any steel armor or bumpers.

Biggest problem I've had is keeping all the bolting tight. Every ~2k I'll crawl under and hit stuff with a rubber mallet, the sound will tell me if anything is loose. I'll get one or two that need to be torque each time.

Nobody talks about the extra maintenance after the lift. Am I the only one that experiences this?
every 2000 miles? that doesn't sound right.
That's way too much maintenance than I'm willing to do, I drive a lot. This is the first I've seen like that though, usually people say every 3-6 months retighten.
 
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