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Discussion Starter #1
Watsup everyone,
obligatory "first jeep, having so much fun, had it for 5 days and I'm already spending all my $ on parts"
I've done my homework and I keep learning everyday, just don't want to order things and be either missing something and have to wait, or have the wrong part.

IF I SEEM STUPID FOR ANYTHING, DONT GO EASY. LET ME HAVE IT
and any help or thoughts are appreciated.
JKU will be on 35s and 17x9 -12 offset wheels

Current lift idea is:
Teraflex 2.5", with Rancho 9000s shocks (or Rancho 5000s to save a couple $?, LEANING Rancho 9s but I'm a newbie)
I wanted this: TeraFlex - JKU 4-Door 2.5” Lift Kit and I would have bought my own shocks but it's on backorder
Found this:
seems to be the exact same, but with Rancho shocks right?
Teraflex Suspension 2.5in Basic Lift Kit

adding:
- Geo correction brackets:
Rancho RS62103 Geometry Correction Brackets, Air Conditioning - Amazon Canada
- 9/16 bolts all around as I go

Add later:
  • Front track bar maybe,
  • If I add a swaybar disconnect, I'll need an exhaust spacer
Teraflex 2610000 Exhaust Spacer Kit for 12-18 Jeep Wrangler JK with 3.6L

is ANY of my information wrong? my understanding is this setup can run 35s w/ no rub. I'm not trying to go much above that in lift height...as I know they're closer to 3" in reality and I don't want to be floating.


IF there's an upgrade for a few more dollars that's worth the cost, I'd love to hear it.
I wil be doing all the work my self :D

thanks everyone.
 

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Its a basic kit, nothing special. Cheap shocks. Not a fan of Teraflex, Chinese junk but you will get fan boys in here singing their praise. Metal Cloak has a kit that I would do that is better and really does not cost much more.https://metalcloak.com/jk-wrangler-2-5in-overland-touring-lift-kit.html I woudl highly suggest a front adjustable track bar and a raised rear track bar bracket on the axle.
You likely will need new gears as well with the 35's. What gears do you have now? You will also need a programer to correct the speedo.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its a basic kit, nothing special. Cheap shocks. Not a fan of Teraflex, Chinese junk but you will get fan boys in here singing their praise. Metal Cloak has a kit that I would do that is better and really does not cost much more.https://metalcloak.com/jk-wrangler-2-5in-overland-touring-lift-kit.html I woudl highly suggest a front adjustable track bar and a raised rear track bar bracket on the axle.
You likely will need new gears as well with the 35's. What gears do you have now? You will also need a programer to correct the speedo.
thanks for that info! I'm doing research on that kit now. I ordered the teraflex 2.5" basic no ext no brackets today but I can always return it, takes 2 weeks to get here anyways.

I'm on 3.73 gears rn, I figure it's good enough with a modest lift? let me know if I'm off base there. I know I won't have issues with rubbing, but if theres a significant performance drop I plan on mitigating it down the road.
 

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3.73 will be so so and its tire size that dictates gears not lift. Typically people will move to 4.56 or 4.88 with a true to size 35" tire. Tire sizes vary a lot and depending on where you live makes a difference. Mountains vs flat lands. Gve it a try and see what you think about the performance. You can always have the gears done later.
 

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That I do and the metal cloak kit is a better value. RK uses a overly heavy solid bar control arm with small joints. The kit is also missing adjsutable bump stops, extended brake lines. I also would not by a fixed lenght control arm. A weld on rear track bar bracket is preferred and is cheaper than the bolt on ones that put extra stress on the weak factory welds. This is a noted point of failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
god I love this community
thanks everyone. I'm well on my way.

Edit: will update in case anyone is interested when I have what I bought installed
 

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That I do and the metal cloak kit is a better value. RK uses a overly heavy solid bar control arm with small joints. The kit is also missing adjsutable bump stops, extended brake lines. I also would not by a fixed lenght control arm. A weld on rear track bar bracket is preferred and is cheaper than the bolt on ones that put extra stress on the weak factory welds. This is a noted point of failure.
RK lowers are 2" OD 7/16 wall DOM. The uppers are solid. The RK kit could benefit from bumps and brake lines but the MC kit utilizes shock extensions which I dont think is the best way to go and drop brackets instead of the clearanced arms of the RK kit. Pros and cons either way
 

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The OP was looking at drop brackets and is why I recommended that kit 80% road time brackets would be better anyway. If with arms I would have suggested this JK Wrangler Lift Kit, Dual-Rate, 2.5" which is still cheaper. Neither the RK kit or the MC kit comes with shocks so the extensions are better than not. The Rocksport shocks are a good shock that is budget frendly and offers more articulation than other comparable set ups. It is still a better value. RK list on their website that the arms are solid.

It all depends on what you are going to do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I see, for me it's gonna be a lot of overlanding and road-tripping with some mudding etc thrown in...nothing too insane or stressing.
I'm in this for life anyways apparently, so if I decided on a more serious setup it would be for my next one down the line and I'd go all out 40s 😅😁

as of this minute, I'm going with brackets and a 2.5 teraflex kit rancho 9000xls because of the variability, and the rust issue I've read with regular maintenance and spraying they should be fine. I will be adding a lot more most likely, stabilizers, centering the front dif etc.
Just so excited, I can't imagine if only I had a garage haha. One day.
 

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I usually agree with Alasha and the Dirtman, because they are usually right.
This time I'm going to say Dirt is righter.
Even if RK suddenly stopped selling over-hyped shit with shitty joints , they still suck to deal with. Jeremy can eat a bag of dicks.
 

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I was in your shoes 2 years ago with my stock 2008 JKU Sport with 3.73 gears. I did a bunch of research and found the Metalcloak 2.5" true dual rate with rocksports shocks to be the best value. I also got the steer package with heavy duty drag link, tie rod and rocksport steering stablizer. Tires are 315's.

I love this set up. I installed it with 3 friends in a day in my driveway. It feels real solid. I have no complaints about the ride. Like others said, it was a pretty basic lift but if your like me and never done anything like this before, picking the right lift can be pretty overwhelming.

I've been all over upper and lower peninsula Michigan with it, if I keep the highway speed around 70, I get 19 mgp. (I'm sure it would be worse if there were any big hills).

I know it will never keep up with the big dogs, but for cruising seasonal roads and traveling around MI, I couldn't be happier

IMG_2534.JPG
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I was in your shoes 2 years ago with my stock 2008 JKU Sport with 3.73 gears. I did a bunch of research and found the Metalcloak 2.5" true dual rate with rocksports shocks to be the best value. I also got the steer package with heavy duty drag link, tie rod and rocksport steering stablizer. Tires are 315's.

I love this set up. I installed it with 3 friends in a day in my driveway. It feels real solid. I have no complaints about the ride. Like others said, it was a pretty basic lift but if your like me and never done anything like this before, picking the right lift can be pretty overwhelming.

I've been all over upper and lower peninsula Michigan with it, if I keep the highway speed around 70, I get 19 mgp. (I'm sure it would be worse if there were any big hills).

I know it will never keep up with the big dogs, but for cruising seasonal roads and traveling around MI, I couldn't be happier
She's pretty, any reason for the stock bumpers? seeing a lot of people staying with them just curious. I've already switched to steel both front and rear for the D rings and a winch.

I've still got all this coming: can still change but seems ok so far?
  • TF 2.5"
  • Rancho geometry brackets
  • 9000xl shocks (decided I'm just gonna rust proof them, they really seem to be the best value for money if you can get around the rust, gonna be tough)
  • DV8 front and rear adjustable track bars
  • Exhaust spacer (heard it wasn't 100% necessary, but why not)
  • Still deciding on which steering stabilizer
  • Control arms down the line

The whole idea is, if I decide to go higher down the line, it's doable with just a few parts. Teraflex 2.5" seems reasonable for that.
still planning on 35x12.5x17
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Its a basic kit, nothing special. Cheap shocks. Not a fan of Teraflex, Chinese junk but you will get fan boys in here singing their praise. Metal Cloak has a kit that I would do that is better and really does not cost much more.https://metalcloak.com/jk-wrangler-2-5in-overland-touring-lift-kit.html I woudl highly suggest a front adjustable track bar and a raised rear track bar bracket on the axle.
You likely will need new gears as well with the 35's. What gears do you have now? You will also need a programer to correct the speedo.
I've been reading through a lot of your posts, so I'd like for you to take a look at this IF you have time.

you recommended the MC 2.5" OL kit, as promised I've been researching a lot more. What seems to come up often in discussions is the coils. With a bit of armour/steel bumpers, people say the TF kit will only net gain you 1-1.5" of lift. Disappointing, as I'm getting full skid plates off a local guy who has a pretty crazy LS rig (I'm finding out more more the Wrangler community is INSANE haha).

So my question is, I understand the MC is better quality parts with WAY better coils, I see that clearly now...but the price just doesn't make sense for me in Canada unless I'm missing something.
Price of that kit shipped to me is $1150 USD call it $1400 vs $646 shipped for the TF. Is the value there? at literally half the price?

The MC kit has better parts all around but mainly coils, apart from that the TF kit comes with a rear track bar bracket while the MC comes with control arm drop brackets instead.
I feel like I made the right call value wise with the TF...if I can get 2" of actual lift.

Is there perhaps a better coil you'd recommend I can just buy now so I only need to install once? or would that not be a good solution in your opinion? (I've read people argue both sides of this)
 

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The metal cloak has more components in their kit and the adjustable bump stops are a plus for dialing in your suspension. With fixed bump stops it may work or not. You can simply buy metal cloak coils all by itself if you just want coils. You can buy every piece of Metal Cloaks suspension kits individually if you want. Its all listed on their website. They typically run a sale on every holiday with 10% off and free shipping.

It depends on what "Value" mans to you. If buying a cheap lift that you will likely replace in the future is value than the $150 Rough Stuff spacer lift would fit the bill and make more sense. For me quality and proper set up is Value since you just do it once.
 

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She's pretty, any reason for the stock bumpers? seeing a lot of people staying with them just curious. I've already switched to steel both front and rear for the D rings and a winch.

I've still got all this coming: can still change but seems ok so far?
  • TF 2.5"
  • Rancho geometry brackets
  • 9000xl shocks (decided I'm just gonna rust proof them, they really seem to be the best value for money if you can get around the rust, gonna be tough)
  • DV8 front and rear adjustable track bars
  • Exhaust spacer (heard it wasn't 100% necessary, but why not)
  • Still deciding on which steering stabilizer
  • Control arms down the line

The whole idea is, if I decide to go higher down the line, it's doable with just a few parts. Teraflex 2.5" seems reasonable for that.
still planning on 35x12.5x17

I've done the Teraflex 2.5 lift, its more a leveling style lift. So you get more in front less in back. To level out the jeep stance. Teraflex is US Utah based company.

With that size lift you don't need geometry brackets. dont need long arm until 3.5+

Adjustable track bars are a good option just dont install one with a drop bracket, they tend to flex the frame where its mounted. Do one with a raised over the axel bracket not the frame side drop.

I've done it with and without a jeep high steer kit. Some cheap ones out there. they just flip the drag link from mounting under to the top of the knuckle. Some replace the knuckle.

Exhaust spacer never used one ever, never needed it.

Skip the steering stabilizers just upgrade the shock don't mess with one with brackets they slip. Just save the money and go with PSC later.
 

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Teraflex may be a US based company but much of their stuff comes off a ship from China.

Some caster correction is good to do even at a 2.5" lift height. Correction brackets are one way to do it. Contral arms, off set ball joints, camb bolts all will correct caster.

You should not need an adjustable track bar with a drop bracket. Drop brackets come in kits that re use the factory track bar. Its best to use a raised axle side track bar bracket. It increases the roll center of the jeep and adds stability with less body roll.

Not sure what you are talking about the drag link. A drag link flip will move the axle end mount on top of the knuckle and you must raise the axle side track bar mount to keep the links paralell.The factory drag link is alread mounted under the knuckle. Its something you don't even need to worry about until you get 3.5" of lift so not really sure why its even mentioned.

Exhause spacer is for the 2012 and newer to keep the factory drive shaft from hitting the exhaust at droop. Has nothing to do with a body lift but any suspension lift over 2" and increases over all travel in the set up should be running the spacer or a new relocated cross pipe. Running a smaller diameter after market drive shaft will also help with clearance so you will not need the spacer. Some relocation bracketswill change the geometry of the arms so that the drive shaft will rotate up as the suspension is drooped to gain clearance on the exhaust.

I agree don't worry about the steering stabilizer. If you are set up correctly and increase your caster, you should be fine with the factory steering stabilizer.
 

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Teraflex may be a US based company but much of their stuff comes off a ship from China.

Some caster correction is good to do even at a 2.5" lift height. Correction brackets are one way to do it. Contral arms, off set ball joints, camb bolts all will correct caster.

You should not need an adjustable track bar with a drop bracket. Drop brackets come in kits that re use the factory track bar. Its best to use a raised axle side track bar bracket. It increases the roll center of the jeep and adds stability with less body roll.

Not sure what you are talking about the drag link. A drag link flip will move the axle end mount on top of the knuckle and you must raise the axle side track bar mount to keep the links paralell.The factory drag link is alread mounted under the knuckle. Its something you don't even need to worry about until you get 3.5" of lift so not really sure why its even mentioned.

Exhause spacer is for the 2012 and newer to keep the factory drive shaft from hitting the exhaust at droop. Has nothing to do with a body lift but any suspension lift over 2" and increases over all travel in the set up should be running the spacer or a new relocated cross pipe. Running a smaller diameter after market drive shaft will also help with clearance so you will not need the spacer. Some relocation bracketswill change the geometry of the arms so that the drive shaft will rotate up as the suspension is drooped to gain clearance on the exhaust.

I agree don't worry about the steering stabilizer. If you are set up correctly and increase your caster, you should be fine with the factory steering stabilizer.
If the track bar has a new location due to a raised mount often a new knuckle or flip is required. To keep it parallel.

 
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