[Fklein6768]

Thank you! Yeah, I broke my rule of never buying a used lifted vehicle. But the wife loved it, and she always comes first. Even if it means me banging my head against the wall a few times. I am going to check the pitman arm torque and also I am going to investigate the teraflex balljoint preload setting. I saw some guy said his didn't come preloaded and needed adjustment out of the box. Another guy adjusts his frequently. I posted in that thread about a further explanation and symptoms associated with that to get a grasp on that so I know what to expect and how to check it and get it in spec. I appreciate the kind words and all of the help so far!

My dynatrac were "loose" not even really close to where they should have been but not a big deal and in retrospect should have checked the torque from the jump. My symptoms were exactly as you describe and some have experienced the "break in" flight ride.
Looks like the alignment is within range/isnt the culprit. My son and I did the alignment on mine in the driveway w a tape measure and it rides great.

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[TeknoVkng]

My dynatrac were "loose" not even really close to where they should have been but not a big deal and in retrospect should have checked the torque from the jump. My symptoms were exactly as you describe and some have experienced the "break in" flight ride.
Looks like the alignment is within range/isnt the culprit. My son and I did the alignment on mine in the driveway w a tape measure and it rides great.

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Yeah I think I have the same mindset. Should have checked torque before the install/after and not assumed it was good. Hopefully that is all that was needed and is good. I have been looking at the alignment options at home so I can tackle it but I will see soon how it drives since the ball joints are torqued down correctly.

 

[Fklein6768]

Let us know how you make out

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[TeknoVkng]

Still taking it slow and driving to make sure it is not a false positive. I want to look into figuring out how to set toe in myself. One thing I struggle with is I want everything as precise as possible and I get hung up on the process I forget to carry out the action.

 

[Fklein6768]

Still taking it slow and driving to make sure it is not a false positive. I want to look into figuring out how to set toe in myself. One thing I struggle with is I want everything as precise as possible and I get hung up on the process I forget to carry out the action.

We got a set of the tmr plates for pretty cheap when they first released. Makes a 2 person job into a 1 person easy peasy. Can just use a flat bar or angle iron/make a set easy enough but ours have paid for themselves already

Synergy Steering Alignment Plates | POLY PERFORMANCE

Synergy Steering Alignment Plates

www.polyperformance.com

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[jdsilvaz99]

I have the complete Tereflex high steer kit on my 2015 Rubicon, Knuckles, tie-rods, ball joints, etc. My one gripe is that the tie-rods need to be adjusted after about 1,000 miles. Now maybe I didn't tighten them enough when I installed them, but come on, adjustable tie-rods???? Pretty dumb. Other than that, great kit. Once I tightened them up, no issues. I didn't have your drive-ability issues though. Drop brackets are never good. I didn't see if you had long or short arms up front. I have not had any issue with their ball joints, so far. About 3,000 miles on the jeep now, since the install. I'm on a 3.5 inch lift from AEV, but have the 4.5 kit from Clayton Offroad that is going on very soon. 3 link long arm front, 4 link long arm in the rear.

 

[TeknoVkng]

Hi all, just an update. I have torqued the ball joints to spec and the steering feels tighter under tension. However when driving there is still a good amount of dead spot. From 10 to 2 while driving I can move the wheel left to right within that angle and the jeep drives straight. While off I can move the steering wheel left to right the same and the pitman arm does not move. I think I have a worn out steering box. Here is a video of my wife moving the steering wheel left to right and the pitman arm static while you can see the steering shaft moving quiet a bit.

February 4, 2023

youtube.com

 

[Old Dogger]

O.k., I agree with what you have said. Try adjusting the steering box, if it is a no go, then it will need to be replaced.

 

[TeknoVkng]

O.k., I agree with what you have said. Try adjusting the steering box, if it is a no go, then it will need to be replaced.

Going to go grab my tools and give it a run and see what happens. I hope this solves my issue! I am a little apathetic at the results because I have already put so much time and money into this but I will remain hopeful. I did get an eye on a 2014 Cayenne GTS earlier today though, I didn't stop as I may have traded it in lol

 

[thedirtman]

Increase your caster. You might also consider a drag link flip at your height if you have not already done that.

 

[TeknoVkng]

I was looking into the drag link flip as well. I wish I would have known when I got the HD tire rods and drag link from teraflex. But I will know soon. My Redhead steering gear box came in last night so I will be replacing the steering box today.

 

[Rob50lx]

I was looking into the drag link flip as well. I wish I would have known when I got the HD tire rods and drag link from teraflex. But I will know soon. My Redhead steering gear box came in last night so I will be replacing the steering box today.

So if you have the Teraflex heavy duty steering kit with the adjustable rod ends; your are in luck! The axle side rod end on the draglink can be flipped. It took me 10 minutes on a 10-ton shop press. Remove c-clip and press out and reverse it. Mark the clocking of the cartridge, I believe the rod end travel is limited by a slot to minimize flop. Make sure you re-install with the same range of movement. That what I did with my steering linkage because the whole non-flip version was way cheaper when I purchased it compared to now. You will just need to drill the knuckle and add a tapered sleeve. It you want Teraflex High steer knuckles I have a set I got from Amazon that was going to be used on another vehicle but I changed my mind. I would sell them for $375 plus shipping but shipping may be expensive.

 

[TeknoVkng]

Awesome! I will let you know. New Redhead steering gear is installed but when I was working I saw my oil cooler is leaking. So I am waiting on that to wrap everything up and give it a good test! Ugh, one thing after another it seems. However, during the initial bleeding of the steering gear I already noticed the difference in the feel of steering. So that may be a plus.

 

[TeknoVkng]

So if you have the Teraflex heavy duty steering kit with the adjustable rod ends; your are in luck! The axle side rod end on the draglink can be flipped. It took me 10 minutes on a 10-ton shop press. Remove c-clip and press out and reverse it. Mark the clocking of the cartridge, I believe the rod end travel is limited by a slot to minimize flop. Make sure you re-install with the same range of movement. That what I did with my steering linkage because the whole non-flip version was way cheaper when I purchased it compared to now. You will just need to drill the knuckle and add a tapered sleeve. It you want Teraflex High steer knuckles I have a set I got from Amazon that was going to be used on another vehicle but I changed my mind. I would sell them for $375 plus shipping but shipping may be expensive.

I have read your post about the DL flip for lifts as little as 2.5"
Does this look like it would need a flip and the track bar bracket?

 

[Rob50lx]

I have read your post about the DL flip for lifts as little as 2.5"
Does this look like it would need a flip and the track bar bracket? View attachment 368290

Yours

Mine at 3.5". I did add a bend to my draglink for additional frame clearance.

Is raised track bar/draglink flip needed on your Jeep? Absolutely NOT!!

I wanted it; I have worked very hard to retain "near stock" or better driving/handling characteristics. My first Jeep was back in 1989 and it was a MJ that eventually had 35s. As I have become older I value NVH and on road manners as much as off road capabilities. I think outside the box and have had to do some things to make my mods work that most people can't justify.

When I was at 2.5" lift I had the high caster Tera44 housing, draglink flip, 6" raised rear track bar, front control arm drop brackets, and other "unnecessary" mods. All these mods done at 2.5" lift was with the idea that I was going to be upgrading to 3.5" lift and 37s in the future. However, they worked very well and I stayed at 2.5" lift and 37s for a while before I decide I wanted more up travel to allow for more aggressive driving and trails. I have been very happy with the results and I didn't mind the extra labor/mods needed to make them work at such a low lift height based on traditional JK advice. I haven't notched the front frame yet to provide for extra clearance for the raised track bar yet. I have rarely had any frame contact between the components and that only happens at very slow speeds where I'm dropping off a rock ledge. I haven't had any contact on frame during street or spirited dirt road driving; I don't jump my Jeep so the frame notch hasn't been a priority yet. I have cycled my suspension with the coil springs removed to make sure I have sufficient clearance for my usage. I use SumoSpring bumpstops and they work very well for my situation without needing hydraulic bump stops. It has taken a while for me to dial them in to allow the up travel I want while still providing a smooth transition to my compressed suspension under my driving conditions. Metalcloak also offers a more economical bump stop that is way better than OEM bumpstops but not quite as good as the SumoSpring bumpstops.

The track bar will hit frame first when wheels are straight while the draglink will hit the frame first if passenger side is stuffed and wheels are turned (this hasn't occurred for me on the trail yet).

 

[TeknoVkng]

Hm, that makes sense. I got the steering gear in and it marginally helped. Could it be my caster? I have been seeing a lot of things saying you need more caster for lifted vehicles. I have the 4" teraflex but with 33"s. I don't know why the previous owner went a 4" for 33s but whatever. Right now I have 4.4 degrees and my steering wheel does not return to center. I am a little at the end of my rope with this Jeep. I don't expect it to ride like a car but I still feel it is unsafe. I have the JKS drop bracket set for the 3" lift. I think I am going to try to drop it down one more hole to the 4" lift and see if there is any improvement.

 

[Rob50lx]

Hm, that makes sense. I got the steering gear in and it marginally helped. Could it be my caster? I have been seeing a lot of things saying you need more caster for lifted vehicles. I have the 4" teraflex but with 33"s. I don't know why the previous owner went a 4" for 33s but whatever. Right now I have 4.4 degrees and my steering wheel does not return to center. I am a little at the end of my rope with this Jeep. I don't expect it to ride like a car but I still feel it is unsafe. I have the JKS drop bracket set for the 3" lift. I think I am going to try to drop it down one more hole to the 4" lift and see if there is any improvement.

Yes you want more caster; as much as you can get without creating front driveshaft vibrations. That will be somewhere in the 5.5 degree range. I have had anywhere from 6.5-8 degrees of caster in my various configurations with the Tera44 high caster housing. Once I install my 8 lug conversion with locking hubs I am going to go back up towards the 8 degrees of caster. You should definitely use the JKS hole for 4" lift if you don't get any front driveshaft vibrations.

If you don't have a raised rear track bar; that is something you should investigate. It won't change your steering feel but it does help improve handling. Most kits are 4" raised above stock, with a few at 5", and a discontinued Metalcloak was at 6" and so is the Teraflex weld on bracket listed for Dana 60s (It will fit stock rear axle with minor grinding.) Make sure you get a quality rear track bar bracket that mounts in multiple locations as you get higher above the factory location; as more leverage is applied to the axle side bracket/mount. Also make sure the track bar can go to stock or shorter length particularly if you bracket raises the location higher than the amount of lift on the rear of the Jeep. I don't know about the 4-door JKs but the 2-door JKs had a rear crossmember that could contact the 6" brackets if you didn't have enough rear bumpstops or grind a half-circle clearance into upper frame crossmember.

This is more clearance than needed on the rear crossmember for a 6" raised track bar on a 2-door but I try to have extra safety margin incase of a failure or unforeseen circumstances. The bumpstop in the picture is a reasonably price Metalcloak bumpstop before I switched it out for the SumoSpring bumpstops.

 

[TeknoVkng]

Yes you want more caster; as much as you can get without creating front driveshaft vibrations. That will be somewhere in the 5.5 degree range. I have had anywhere from 6.5-8 degrees of caster in my various configurations with the Tera44 high caster housing. Once I install my 8 lug conversion with locking hubs I am going to go back up towards the 8 degrees of caster. You should definitely use the JKS hole for 4" lift if you don't get any front driveshaft vibrations.

If you don't have a raised rear track bar; that is something you should investigate. It won't change your steering feel but it does help improve handling. Most kits are 4" raised above stock, with a few at 5", and a discontinued Metalcloak was at 6" and so is the Teraflex weld on bracket listed for Dana 60s (It will fit stock rear axle with minor grinding.) Make sure you get a quality rear track bar bracket that mounts in multiple locations as you get higher above the factory location; as more leverage is applied to the axle side bracket/mount. Also make sure the track bar can go to stock or shorter length particularly if you bracket raises the location higher than the amount of lift on the rear of the Jeep. I don't know about the 4-door JKs but the 2-door JKs had a rear crossmember that could contact the 6" brackets if you didn't have enough rear bumpstops or grind a half-circle clearance into upper frame crossmember.

This is more clearance than needed on the rear crossmember for a 6" raised track bar on a 2-door but I try to have extra safety margin incase of a failure or unforeseen circumstances. The bumpstop in the picture is a reasonably price Metalcloak bumpstop before I switched it out for the SumoSpring bumpstops.

The kit the PO got actually did have a raised rear trackbar bracket but didn't have anything for the front and it was shifted over a good inch if I remember correctly.
If that other hole changes the characteristics to a more favorable drive I may have a hard look at dropping down to a 3" lift spring instead of a 4. TF sells both and they seem to have the same shocks and components. Maybe just sway bar links need to change and my trackbar and alignment and I may go adjustable lower control arms to really dial it in for the caster and not put too much of an angle on the drive shaft. I think my thinking is correct, that the springs dictate the height of the lift? I wouldn't mind getting some dual rate springs while im replacing, if that is the case.