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Discussion Starter #1
Went for ice cream the other night, CEL pops up followed minutes later by a Rockefeller Center worthy light display on the dash. Enter, the solid red light above oil temp. Parked the car, enjoyed my double dip and upon returning I was unable to enter the car with the FOB. After not getting the engine to turn, I gave up and decided to tackle it in the morning. After locking up I realized I forgot the keys to my other car in the console and, entering through the passenger door I tripped the alarm. 2 days, a tow ride home and half a foot of snow, I cannot get the bastard to turn off. Here’s where I’m at;

-Battery is brand new, was just cleaned this past weekend after rewiring leads and upgrading terminal connections. (200 miles since the swap, don’t think it’s related/ all connections are tight and sealed)
-Sway bar e-disco light giving me shit for a week, haven’t had time to pull it out and take it apart.
-Key fob battery new as of yesterday
-Reset that weird double fuse computer thing in the TIPM, not sure it did anything.
-I do not have a spare right now
-It’s Saturday, stealership won’t see me until Wednesday and I’ve got skis mounted for tomorrow so......

I read through owners manual and I’ve read through countless threads from others but no real resolution. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!!


2010 JKUR
167,000
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Chatty bunch today! So good news, I believe I’ve identified the issue. $300 later I have a shiny new key and all set to program and....... nothing.

Locksmith got all the way to “turn ignition on” and immobilizer was preventing it from reading. Is there a way to reset the immobilizer?

Send help! Thanks
 

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you'll often get a lack of responses around here when it's known that what you're asking about has been covered /there's a thread about it. Not saying that's ALL the time , but quite often can be why a lulled-response occurs. That or if it's too many words :blush2:


Here.


There are some benefits from the safety of disconnecting the negative lead from the JK battery then additional benefits from leaving it disconnected for over 9 minutes . There's an additional benefit & process you'll find potentially useful in disconnecting & grounding together ( ie- hold the leads together , NOT connected to battery) the 2 lead clamps; if you do so for over 3 min it will reset the memorized TIPM & ECU parameters , defaulting each as they were when activated on the assembly line. It will reset many PID codes or diag errors from occurring . Of course, if there's a legitimate problem someplace, these codes can immediately return , which we won't get into deep about here....just know that you can and probably could , OP, benefit from grounding these together to reset everything & see what results ....


edit ; after re-reading OPs issue, resetting stuff probably won't do anything beneficial for this. It sounds like a ground or faulty ecu

 

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One of those “I shoulda done that SOB last weekend when it was on my mind” moments.

I just hung up with the poor service adviser at our friendly neighborhood Communist Regime of Money and Soul Sucking Pocket Drainers (aka the Stealership). Stalin and his bunch of heathens determined the WCM was “offline” and the cause........ that god damn e disco wiring harness melted and that caused it to happen. You’d think that cheaply built piece of shit would have a price tag less than $3000 for just the harness without labor.

Bridget the S/A learned some new words when she told me it would be nearly $5,000 to get out the door today. Poor gal. Going to bypass for now until I figure out which quick discos I’d like.

Thanks for the info J33f3ry
 

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Hi Pbeeezy303,

I feel your pain my friend. Have you managed to sort yourself out? If yes, please let me know how.

I've had exactly the same issue as you last Friday 24th May. My keyfob wouldn't unlock my doors so I opened the driver door with my Key (passenger side for you as mine is RHD) and the Alarm went on.

I had that in the past but at the time the Alarm would stop when I put the key in the ignition and turn the key to start position. Well not this time, the alarm kept going on. I cranked up the engine but it stalled after a few seconds as I suppose the security system is doing it's job.

My JK is a 2008 fitted with a 2014 5.7 Hemi from a RAM and with a wire Harness and ECU from HotWire Auto.

I disconnected both batteries, and tightened together the + and - cables with cable ties and left it overnight but no changes. I also tried to remove the M13 Fuse for few minutes but no changes. I recharged both batteries. I replaced the 3 volts batteries of both Key fob and still no change.

I ran a scan with my Autel Maxidas Scan tool and now the Scan tool cannot see the ECU anymore but it communicates with every other modules.

I tried to disconnect the WCM and the Intrusion Transceiver Module and reconnected the batteries and tried to start the engine. The alarm stopped but the engine won't crank anymore!

I called Chris the boss of Hotwire Auto and described my issues and he told me that if the scan Tool doesn't talk to the ECU anymore it is a bad ECU so I ordered a rebuilt one but he hasn't got any in stock at the moment so I am waiting.

I saw a video on YouTube of a Guy who removed the WCM from his Grand Cherokee and bought a rebuilt ECU that has never been connected to a truck. By doing this the new ECU gives him the security red light in the dash but he could start his Jeep with any key without keyfobs as long they fit in the ignition. So I was thinking of doing that too.

I asked to Chris if that would work for a JK but he doesn't think that would work because the start signal goes through the WCM. So even with a new ECU I won't be able to start my Jeep to bring it to the Jeep Dealer regardless of a good or bad WCM because the new ECU must be initialised with the WCM by the Dealership Computer.

One of those “I shoulda done that SOB last weekend when it was on my mind” moments.

I just hung up with the poor service adviser at our friendly neighborhood Communist Regime of Money and Soul Sucking Pocket Drainers (aka the Stealership). Stalin and his bunch of heathens determined the WCM was “offline” and the cause........ that god damn e disco wiring harness melted and that caused it to happen. You’d think that cheaply built piece of shit would have a price tag less than $3000 for just the harness without labor.

Bridget the S/A learned some new words when she told me it would be nearly $5,000 to get out the door today. Poor gal. Going to bypass for now until I figure out which quick discos I’d like.

Thanks for the info J33f3ry
 

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Did either of you figure this out? I have same symtoms. I have no start, nothing when turning the key. Has symptoms of bad WCM but cannot connect the scanner because OBD port wont communicate.

Hi Pbeeezy303,

I feel your pain my friend. Have you managed to sort yourself out? If yes, please let me know how.

I've had exactly the same issue as you last Friday 24th May. My keyfob wouldn't unlock my doors so I opened the driver door with my Key (passenger side for you as mine is RHD) and the Alarm went on.

I had that in the past but at the time the Alarm would stop when I put the key in the ignition and turn the key to start position. Well not this time, the alarm kept going on. I cranked up the engine but it stalled after a few seconds as I suppose the security system is doing it's job.

My JK is a 2008 fitted with a 2014 5.7 Hemi from a RAM and with a wire Harness and ECU from HotWire Auto.

I disconnected both batteries, and tightened together the + and - cables with cable ties and left it overnight but no changes. I also tried to remove the M13 Fuse for few minutes but no changes. I recharged both batteries. I replaced the 3 volts batteries of both Key fob and still no change.

I ran a scan with my Autel Maxidas Scan tool and now the Scan tool cannot see the ECU anymore but it communicates with every other modules.

I tried to disconnect the WCM and the Intrusion Transceiver Module and reconnected the batteries and tried to start the engine. The alarm stopped but the engine won't crank anymore!

I called Chris the boss of Hotwire Auto and described my issues and he told me that if the scan Tool doesn't talk to the ECU anymore it is a bad ECU so I ordered a rebuilt one but he hasn't got any in stock at the moment so I am waiting.

I saw a video on YouTube of a Guy who removed the WCM from his Grand Cherokee and bought a rebuilt ECU that has never been connected to a truck. By doing this the new ECU gives him the security red light in the dash but he could start his Jeep with any key without keyfobs as long they fit in the ignition. So I was thinking of doing that too.

I asked to Chris if that would work for a JK but he doesn't think that would work because the start signal goes through the WCM. So even with a new ECU I won't be able to start my Jeep to bring it to the Jeep Dealer regardless of a good or bad WCM because the new ECU must be initialised with the WCM by the Dealership Computer.
 
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