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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have issues with their a/c blowing warm air?

Mine worked fine earlier today, I drove it about 10 miles to the store then it just started blowing warm air. The engine temp of the jeep was just at, or slightly below 1/2 so, I wasn't over heating.

I turned the A/C on high, and opened the hood to see if the compressor kicked on but, it didn't in 5 minutes that I had it running. So I checked the fuses (a 20 amp & a 10 amp) which seemed to be fine (no breaks).

So then I checked to see if their were any codes w/my Flashpaq, and..PO533 (A/C Pressure Sensor Circuit High) was listed.

I haven't the foggiest idea what that is.:shaking: or even if it caused the problem.

I'm going to run it to the dealership tomarrow morning (already set the jeep back to stock btw), but I was just wondering if anyone had any insight, so that I may be armed with knowledge before going.:)

Thanks,:beer:

~Ray
 

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Not positive but a quick google of PO533 (A/C Pressure Sensor Circuit High) all results point to low refrigerant.

On my older cars, loss of refrigerant does this with a pressure switch by breaking the connection to the clutch. I would imagine it's the same with the addition of it knowing and throwing a code.
 

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gold,

So If I'm reading your post right, what you're saying is that I may be low on refrigerant and that in of itself, may have broke the circuit?
yes, the low refrigerant pressure causes the switch to break contact so you don't burn up the compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It was covered under warranty.

Well, they found out what it was.:bounce:

It was a freyed wire in the pigtail, for the A/C cycling switch.
And they happened to have one handy so, they hooked me up.:)

How the wire got freyed is anyone's guess. They don't know and neither do I. It was wrapped up, and wasn't rubbing on anything so?....

Anyway, they went ahead and performed a recall service as well, J30.
Something to do with the tranny temp.

All in all...great people there at the service department!!!

Thanks again gold knight..:beer:
 

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Well, they found out what it was.:bounce:

It was a freyed wire in the pigtail, for the A/C cycling switch.
And they happened to have one handy so, they hooked me up.:)

How the wire got freyed is anyone's guess. They don't know and neither do I. It was wrapped up, and wasn't rubbing on anything so?....

Anyway, they went ahead and performed a recall service as well, J30.
Something to do with the tranny temp.

All in all...great people there at the service department!!!

Thanks again gold knight..:beer:
Good to hear it worked out.....yeah the dreaded J30 "HOT OIL" warning recall. I've been carrying that notice around with me since the week I installed the tranny cooler and still haven't called to schedule an appointment.
 

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How the wire got freyed is anyone's guess. They don't know and neither do I. It was wrapped up, and wasn't rubbing on anything so?....
Squirrels....it's ALWAYS the damn squirrels. :bounce:

Glad they got it fixed for you and didn't take too long to diagnose and repair. :beer:
 

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im glad they fixed yours quick my jeep has been to the dealer 6 times now and at a week each time it sucks my ac and heater quits blowing after about 25 min of driving and they dont have a clue im about ready to trade it in on a new one
 

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You can confirm this yourself, if you want. You can follow the low sideline(the big one) until you find what looks like an oil pressure switch in the line. It is a pressure switch, but a refrigerant pressure switch. It tells the compressor the system has enough pressure for compressor to operate.....or not. Once you find the switch, unplug it and get a volt ohmmeter and check for continuity between the blades on the switch. If there's no continuity, the pressure is low. Also, as a further check, once you see there is no continuity, take a jumper wire with the engine running and the A/C on, jump the two connectors on the plug for the pressure switch. If the compressor comes on, you just diagnosed a low refrigerant situation. :D

Nevermind. I see you got it fixed. I shouldda read the whole post, but these Coronas are speakin to me. Sorry. Was only trying to be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You can confirm this yourself, if you want. You can follow the low sideline(the big one) until you find what looks like an oil pressure switch in the line. It is a pressure switch, but a refrigerant pressure switch. It tells the compressor the system has enough pressure for compressor to operate.....or not. Once you find the switch, unplug it and get a volt ohmmeter and check for continuity between the blades on the switch. If there's no continuity, the pressure is low. Also, as a further check, once you see there is no continuity, take a jumper wire with the engine running and the A/C on, jump the two connectors on the plug for the pressure switch. If the compressor comes on, you just diagnosed a low refrigerant situation. :D

Nevermind. I see you got it fixed. I shouldda read the whole post, but these Coronas are speakin to me. Sorry. Was only trying to be helpful
.
No, that's okay man. Someone may be able to use the information you posted down the road. :beer:
 

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And speaking of helping someone down the road, I need to do this. Rather than create a new thread, I'm bringing this one back up, hoping for a little more help and clarification. Basically, I'm experiencing a very similar issue as the OP, but in a 2013 (46k miles): A/C button on (orange light), dials full blast, but only warm air blowing out the vents and the compressor clutch does not engage. I don't have any codes, however. Voltage does read ~13V across the connector leads at the compressor. I'll verify the resistance and whether or not the switch is open, but was wondering if the jump procedure to brute force the compressor would be the same and safe for a 2012+? ... I just don't want to fry anything computer-related :th_pray:

FYI, according to the gauge on the bottle of A/C-in-a-can, the system is "in the red" (i.e. overfilled?), yet I didn't add refrigerant and I've never used the JK's A/C since purchasing the thing almost four years ago.
 

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I have a similar issue on my 2010 Sport. The compressor doesn't come on when you turn on the AC but it does come on briefly when you turn it off. There's also a hissing noise when making any adjustments to the system such as changing temperature or fan speed. My guess would be low refrigerant but I'm unsure. Thoughts?
 
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