JKOwners Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought an aftermarket rear driveshaft to replace my chewed up factory rear shaft. While removing the factory driveshaft, the factory pinion flange only rotated a little bit, so it was reasonably easy to get the pinion nut off. Now I have a pinion seal leak, and I'm trying to replace the seal. While removing the aftermarket yoke, it seems like the yoke just keeps rotating, so I haven't been able to get the pinion nut to budge at all. I'm guessing this isn't normal... so I'm just looking for some guidance.

Worth mentioning that on the initial install, I stopped tightening when I heard a metal clunk sound, however, the Jeep has been driving fine. I'm wondering if this has something to do with me destroying the crush sleeve or bearings or something. There's some yoke in and out play as well...

This is what it looked like when I first installed it.
Gas Auto part Metal Automotive wheel system Art
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
I am not sure I follow completely, but this tool bolts to the flange and then you can put a breaker bar on it to hold the pinion flange from moving. I let it rotate until it hit the ground and it held the pinion flange from moving until I got the nut loose.
Pinion Flange Tool
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Oh, guess I didn't realize how normal it is for the flange to rotate. Cool. I ordered one similar to that.
There is nothing there to keep it from spinning, assuming the gears are in good working order, unless either the tires are on the ground or something is used to brace it. Even w/ the tires on the ground the entire Jeep will more than likely shift and move back and forth. I have seen the nut removed w/ impact gun w/o bracing, but w/ a breaker-bar... good luck, as you have found out already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I have used a pipe wrench and/or a Ford wrench to hold the yoke while turning the nut before when vehicles were on the lift.
Just open the wrench enough to clamp on 1 side of the yoke to hold it.
Also apply the parking brake.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,481 Posts
You did not destroy the crush sleeve. You would prolapse your rectum before making that crush sleeve budge.
The play in the yoke may be because your nut has backed off a bit. Check it out once you re-assemble and tighten stuff down.
Measure the amount of torque required to rotate the yoke. Write it down.
Brace the yoke with your tool of choice - I like the Ford style, which is basically a piece of flat stock with two holes. It will rest against something solid and allow you to hit the nut with an impact.
You should be able to zip off the nut with a 1/2" impact. 3/4" for sure.
Do what you need to do and re-assemble with the existing nut and a few drops of red loctite. Zip the nut down to about 160lb. Check how many lbs are needed to rotate the yoke.
Your goal is to get it +5lbs over the previous measurement by torquing the nut in 5lb increments. This will most likely be somewhere between 165 and 200lbs. Again, don't worry about the crush sleeve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,619 Posts
The yoke is spline. there should not be any rotation in the yoke, you should have backlash though a slight bit of movement in either direction. This is normal. If you don't have the pinion nut tight enough then there would be slop in the pinion where it would move around up and down and side to side because you have no bearing preload.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top