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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know all my damn tech posts have been about stereos thus far, but hell, it's the only thing I can afford to even touch yet.

So I want to buy a head unit from a fellow JKOer. He has an installation wiring harness and all, BUT his Jeep didn't have the infinity system to attach it to, and mine does. He says it's got all the connections except those for the subwoofer...

I don't mind either leaving the sub disconnected or even trying to figure out which wires would go to the sub part of the jeep's wiring alongside the plug harness, but everything I read elsewhere seems to hint that it just plain won't work at all.

Sooooo will it? won't it? Will there just be wires from the HU and wires from the Jeep that need to mate even though they're not in the plug-n-play connectors?

The small bit of stereo work I've ever done was solely with ready-fit connectors; I've never had to *make* something work before.
 

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My wiring kit powered the Infinity sub just fine but I used the PAC C2R-CHY4 Radio Replacement Interface to connect it all. My sub works fine, the only feature I lost was the ability to fade the speakers.

Well I guess I should say I bought the connector as a buddy who does A/V work for a living hooked me up with the install so I am not 100% sure if he had to do anything but during my research Crutchfield said it was plug and play
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, it probably doesn't help that I don't know which harness this guy has.

Bottom line, I suppose, is "will a harness designed for the non-infinity JK base system work to attach the HU to an Infinity JK system?" (even if the sub is additional wires)
 

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Well, it probably doesn't help that I don't know which harness this guy has.

Bottom line, I suppose, is "will a harness designed for the non-infinity JK base system work to attach the HU to an Infinity JK system?" (even if the sub is additional wires)
From what I can tell on Crutchfield the harness they recommend for a 2010 JK with the Infinity is the same as the one they recommend for a 2010 JK without the Infinity.

Not a definitive answer but it looks like the harness they use is the same for both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now that instills a bit more confidence, at least!
 

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This is from the instructions on the PAC C2R-CHY4 harness...

1. Only one of the two provided radio harnesses will be used. Remove the factory
installed radio to determine the correct harness for your particular vehicle.

2. Vehicles without a factory amplifier: Connect the aftermarket radio’s front and
rear speaker wires to the 22 pin plug.

3. Vehicles with a factory amplifier: The factory amplifier only accepts two audio
channels (left and right). The amplifier’s fading is controlled by data communication
from the factory radio. The aftermarket radio does not have the ability to control the
amplifier’s fader. Connect the front outputs of the aftermarket radio to the rear inputs of the 22 pin radio connector. This will
allow navigation voice prompts and Bluetooth calls to be heard. The rear speaker outputs of the aftermarket radio are not used.
 

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Yep, there are 2 different install kits. I have a Clarion and used the appropriate PAC harness. I think there's a little green box back there somewhere too. The OEM subwoofer works great!:)
 

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the infinity amp has outputs for each speaker in your JK (tweeters have their own output as well as the sub) it's actually a 8 channel amp. all the wires running out to the speakers are nicely paired coming out of the amp. you can splice your HU in there, just make sure you disconnect the infinity amp. i'm not sure how well the tweeters will like having the full range sent to them, i ended up replacing the factory speakers with components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the infinity amp has outputs for each speaker in your JK (tweeters have their own output as well as the sub) it's actually a 8 channel amp. all the wires running out to the speakers are nicely paired coming out of the amp. you can splice your HU in there, just make sure you disconnect the infinity amp. i'm not sure how well the tweeters will like having the full range sent to them, i ended up replacing the factory speakers with components.
Yyyyeaahhhh not disconnecting amps or anything. Just want to plug the thing in with the harness and have it work. Period. As stated, if it means I have to leave the sub unconnected, then c'est la vie.
 

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Yyyyeaahhhh not disconnecting amps or anything. Just want to plug the thing in with the harness and have it work. Period. As stated, if it means I have to leave the sub unconnected, then c'est la vie.
So why don't you buy his H/U and then get the right harness?
 

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Yyyyeaahhhh not disconnecting amps or anything. Just want to plug the thing in with the harness and have it work. Period. As stated, if it means I have to leave the sub unconnected, then c'est la vie.
So why don't you buy his H/U and then get the right harness?
^^^ this is a smart fella.

Get the right harness. Its just like bose in other cars you have to have the right harness to support the factory amp.

Why is it that everyone says this for suspension but not audio..."do it right the first time"
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Maybe I was vague or mistaken, but I have found out that the harness included is the one Crutchfield recommends, whether infinity or not. So my fingers are crossed and I simply hope I can figure out how the sub wires need to be done.
 

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There is one issue with the crutchfield harness. I just installed a car pc using the harness from crutchfield. The pac harness actuall comes with 2 different adapters. You only use one...you have to figure out which one plugs into your factory wiring harness. After that it will be plug and play.

The harness that you unplug from your factory head unit already has the wires run to the amp and then to the speakers. The only wrinkle is that the factory harness only has two channels going to the amp. The PAC instructions tell you to wire the rear speaker output of the after market head unit to those channels. You won't connect the front speaker outputs of the aftermarket head unit.

I hope i helped some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, i guess a mod can delete this thread. The harness that was already attached to the radio (used in the previous non-infinity jeep) was exactly the one my jeep needed, and it was all plug and play. Sweet. FM sounds like shit, though, all static all the time - maybe the antenna connector is loose or something. Still, this morning I listened to Pandora over Bluetooth instead, and it was awesome. Getting a micro USB key, too, to plug all my tunes in.
 

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Not so fast on the delete Tex. I have read that bypassing the Infinity amp leads to better sound quality, in addition to adding fade control. They say it brings in the sound bar speakers, which are barely noticible otherwise. Is this true? How do I do this and still utilize the PAC connectors so the unit is in sync with the Canbus?
 

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Not so fast on the delete Tex. I have read that bypassing the Infinity amp leads to better sound quality, in addition to adding fade control. They say it brings in the sound bar speakers, which are barely noticible otherwise. Is this true? How do I do this and still utilize the PAC connectors so the unit is in sync with the Canbus?
the infinity amp has a crossover for the rear speakers to cut out the low frequencies, otherwise the sound bar rattles. when i installed and aftermarket hu, i added and in-line high pass filter to filter out anything below 200 hz....and it still rattles some.

bypassing the infinity amp will also cause you to loose your sub. i added an old 55x2 rms amp to drive the factory sub, and it sounds better than with the infinity amp. it's not going to rattle your teeth loose, but it helps round out the low end since you don't get too much from the front and rear speakers.

i can only assume that the front speakers and tweeter are crossed over too since they have separate outputs on the infinity amp. i solved that by adding a new set of components up front. you may be able to just run the full range speaker and tweeter together from the same speaker output on the hu, but do so at your own risk!

so without the PAC adapter, the only other issue was turning the radio on and off. i just used the switched 12 volt port to turn it on and off.

i don't regret NOT spending $120 for the PAC adapter. :mr-t:
 

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Thanks for the info. I had problems going with the adaptor and factory amp where my Kenwood DNX head unit locked itself out in a DC protect mode. This is usually due to blown speakers, but I finally tracked it down to shorting of the unused rear speaker outputs. A little tape did the trick but what a PITA it was to track down. Just thought I'd put it out there so folks remember to tape up the ends of all those unused wires when using the PAC adapter!
 

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How is it that you lost your fade? Doesn't the head unit allow you to make adjustments? Initially the factory system with or without the infinity sound system has a self attenuation feature that really doesn't allow you much fade to the sound bar or sub because they were trying to eliminate blowing these speakers while under factory warranty while people had the tops off! Just what i heard!
 

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There is one issue with the crutchfield harness. I just installed a car pc using the harness from crutchfield. The pac harness actuall comes with 2 different adapters. You only use one...you have to figure out which one plugs into your factory wiring harness. After that it will be plug and play.

The harness that you unplug from your factory head unit already has the wires run to the amp and then to the speakers. The only wrinkle is that the factory harness only has two channels going to the amp. The PAC instructions tell you to wire the rear speaker output of the after market head unit to those channels. You won't connect the front speaker outputs of the aftermarket head unit.

I hope i helped some.
Reviving a long dead thread, in the hopes someone can help. I just installed the Atoto A6 into my 2007 JKU (with stock amplifier) last night, following the instructions of the PAC C2R-CHY4 Radio Replacement Interface to wire the front speakers from the radio to the rear speakers of the amp. Well, it works well, but I am only getting sounds from my front speakers now. using the fade via the radio does decrease the sound going tot he front, but sends nothing to the "rear" overhead bar.
 

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Reviving a long dead thread, in the hopes someone can help. I just installed the Atoto A6 into my 2007 JKU (with stock amplifier) last night, following the instructions of the PAC C2R-CHY4 Radio Replacement Interface to wire the front speakers from the radio to the rear speakers of the amp. Well, it works well, but I am only getting sounds from my front speakers now. using the fade via the radio does decrease the sound going tot he front, but sends nothing to the "rear" overhead bar.
Are u sure you have the premium system then ?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
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