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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced my factory 730n with a Kenwood ddx6902s and maestro idatalink paired with the factory Premium Alpine system in my 2013. Right off the bat, instant improvement with a few caveats.

I can still use the fader, but it appears the the subwoofer acts independent of the head unit and just takes what its given by the amp. I was attempting to use the crossover in the head unit to remove some of the low end from the front speakers (since they were distorting at higher volume) and realized that bass was dissappearing both from the speakers and also from the subwoofer.

Is there anyway to modify the crossover frequency on the stock amp without the factory headunit?

Thanks all!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'm going to change my question slightly... Is there an adapter I could get (so I don't have to splice cables) that would allow me to unplug my front speakers from the stock amplifier and run them directly off the head unit? Or pull the wire right from the speaker, plug in an adapter to the speaker and then wire that right to the head unit leaving a connector dangling in the speaker pod?

I have a 2013 Sahara if that matters.
 

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You're going to have to do some splicing, the factory amp has a bass rolloff feature, it SUCKS ideally the best bet will be to get a 5 channel amp and use the pre outs of the deck and run the amp .
Then you would have all the control you need.

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for writing back!

Considering I already have an aftermarket deck, is there a decent 5 channel amp I could get to just swap out the alpine amp? As I understand it the upgraded premium speakers are actually "relatively decent."

Also, in that situation how would I wire up the stock tweeters?

Edit: I guess another route I could go would be to just get small amplifier, run the subwoofer output to that from the head unit, and then power the factory subwoofer with that. Does anyone have any recommendations for an amp I could use for that?
 

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I would just ditch the whole system and use a 5 channel , the brand is up to you Alpine , JL , Kicker , Im looking at the alpine PDR-V75 I am keeping the stock unit and using a Audio Control LCi8 to convert the signal.

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Discussion Starter #6
i generally think the speakers sound pretty decent, i just want more bass. since I can adjust the crossover on the headunit for the whole system, i'm going to keep the speakers and amp hooked up.

i purchased a kicker dxa250.1 and a pioneer ts-sw2002d2 to replace the stock sub with. I'll run the subwoofer pre amp from the ddx6902s to the kicker amp and control the subwoofer separately. Will keep you all posted. I'm going to see what the stuck sub sounds like hooked up to the new amp first, and if its adequate i'll just return the pioneer.
 

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From one bass head to another I'm interested in what the result is amping the factory sub.

I have a T-line box I built for a 10" sub but have not gotten around to installing it because it's a fucking huge box and I have kicked around the idea of just amping the factory one separately too.

If you're results are satisfactory I may give it a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
got it all in over the weekend. much better.

I didn't end up bothering trying to amplify the factory sub, i thought about it but i figured there was no way the aftermarket one i got wouldn't be better.

So, you can basically remove the factory the sub and you'd never know it was missing. A lot of the bass comes from the front speakers, you just kinda feel it from the subwoofer, but it doesn't really add much audio wise.

I'm still playing around with crossover and gain settings but all in i'm extremely happy. I have a feeling this would sound better with a real subwoofer box, but i'm pretty happy with the result in the stock enclosure. I have it mostly filled with lightly packed polyfill. I may pull it all back out and use something like dynamat.
 

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OK, so aftermarket sub in the stock enclosure then with the kicker amp? Problem with that, that I can think of, is the facing of the speaker. Bass is omnidirectional, but it still needs to load off a near surface to improve the low end.

And you're right, there is absolutely zero punch to the stock system. It's a mid-bass driver setup, at best.
 

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I will tell you really decent sound can be had by Dyno matting the stock enclosure and get 2 spacer rings. Slap an Alpine type R in there. The air space requirement for the type R is extremely low. I was very happy with the results I got inn my 14 Rubi going that route. In my 2010 Rubi I snatched the removable sub out of it built an octagon tube and ran a kicker sub in it. The 17 I am just leaving the factory sub in place because what ever they did with the new floor mounted sub has vastly improved the bass in the vehicle over the previous designs.
 

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I will tell you really decent sound can be had by Dyno matting the stock enclosure and get 2 spacer rings. Slap an Alpine type R in there. The air space requirement for the type R is extremely low. I was very happy with the results I got inn my 14 Rubi going that route. In my 2010 Rubi I snatched the removable sub out of it built an octagon tube and ran a kicker sub in it. The 17 I am just leaving the factory sub in place because what ever they did with the new floor mounted sub has vastly improved the bass in the vehicle over the previous designs.
Did you Dyno mat the inside or out of the sub enclosure?

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I will tell you really decent sound can be had by Dyno matting the stock enclosure and get 2 spacer rings. Slap an Alpine type R in there. The air space requirement for the type R is extremely low. I was very happy with the results I got inn my 14 Rubi going that route. In my 2010 Rubi I snatched the removable sub out of it built an octagon tube and ran a kicker sub in it. The 17 I am just leaving the factory sub in place because what ever they did with the new floor mounted sub has vastly improved the bass in the vehicle over the previous designs.
Did you run the new sub off the stock amp on the '14?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
As a quick follow up...

the combo of kicker dxa250.1 and pioneer ts-sw2002d2 in the stock enclosure has been working great. I'm going to dynamat the inside of the stock enclosure and also the lining of my bestop security box since i have some extra material.

BUT i had an idea while i was looking at my stock subwoofer looking sad and unused in my spare bedroom.

Any ideas for mounting it under the drive or passenger seat? If it won't blow out, I was thinking i could mount it free air downfiring so its raised up, otherwise I was thinking I could build box and have it stick out a little bit behind the seat
 

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It's likely not a sub that will sound good at all as a free-air install.

What's the depth of the stock sub? I'd guess there isn't enough room to build a box for one under the seat either. Might need a shallow mount sub for something like that.

There have been custom under seat boxes made for the rear seats. There is enough room under those to build a box and mount it most likely.

Otherwise, if you want to use it, build a T-line or 1/4wave box for it, hook it up to the radio in your garage and have fun with it.
 
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