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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday a stick wedged up on the drivers' side of my t-case. It broke the metal breather vent right off the t-case (that was the hose Evan saw dangling loose), the t-case position sensor, and the plastic bushing on the t-case shift cable.
My plan is to drop the trans crossmember a couple inches, and try to replace the breather vent without removing the t-case or splitting it open. Then the sensor. The bushing clip I did this morning.
Does anyone know if it is possible to do replace that metal fitting without removing the t-case?
Pics of dubious value
This is the broken tube on a picture of the t-case

This is the sensor harness that clips to the t-case position sensor. It is broken, at least the retaining clip is, (4x4 indicator lights and no flashing sway bar light make me think it's ok) but maybe some small zap straps and some epoxy will suffice.

If anyone has advice, I would appreciate your feedback.
Darren
 

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If u can use small zp straps and then put a dab of silicone around the clips don't get any in side just around and the breather tube u should be able to some how add a new conection between the two. Still thinking on that one. U almost would want to thread small metal tube in it then conect the tube to that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Ev.
Dave,
I would not mind at all if you want to swing by and look. I am taking the jk to my nephews' when I come home in my next turnaround in Jan to do the work, but I want to order all the parts I 'might' need in advance. If you have time and feel like taking a boo txt me at 778 229 0073.
Thanks,
Darren
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ya, dave is wrangling (get it?..wrangler...i slay me) the parts, and I am gonna hit it in a couple weeks. We have a new cell tower, but it doesn't work yet. The internet is satellite, and with 300 or so people trying to use it makes it suck. I almost never try it. Anyway, i will be in touch in a couple weeks.
Have fun wheeling!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks D!
I am somewhere near Ft. St. James right now, back on pavement and full time phone service. I'll give you a call later today, when I hit yvr.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)

what a fucker to press in. (getting it out sucked, but at least I didn't have to split the case.) Cut a slot in a socket and tapped it in with a framing hammer and a two pounder when the framing hammer was too light.

Took the time to fix and gusett a rror skid. The rror supplied welds looked like I did them... not pretty, and they cracked (at the weld on the other side, and at the break in this pic.


And with my nephew doing all the hard stuff, I should be stick free for a while.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
When I get back in two weeks, BCC will have the psc assist and the poly ball joints done, so we will need to check that out.
Brett, they are the aluminum skids. It looks to me like rror uses too sharp a die to break the flat stock, so between the few hard knocks, and constant heat/cool and vibration from the x over pipe, it simply failed. Seriously Amateur. Looks like Rock Hard or custom steel would have been better.
I didn't do the initial install, but I took them iff and reinstalled them.
The rror system fails three ways;
1) The bolted connections in the frame rails are near impossible to tighten/loosen. Thankfully I know a good fabber-welder who tig welded some tabs on the nuts so I just need to get them started, then use power tool to torque.
2) the rear mounting tab for the gas tank skid was at least an inch short. The supplied bolt hung it ok, but again... Welder nephews are good to have.
3) rror used stainless bolts. We reinstalled new stainless ones with light coating of never sieze. Those bastards were pretty well welded in there.
 
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