[tiltz]

I know, I know, I know. 1 tons or go home.

But, who is running a 44 front with a 60 rear?

I did some searches. Saw many people chime in with and without 40s saying things like, "Never!.. NO WAY!... Dana 44s are like little glass figurines when combined with 40s!.. Do you really want to blow up your entire axle and ruin everybody's day out on the trail!!!! You are dumb for even saying Dana 44 and 40s in the same sentence.. I like bacon!... Dana 44s are for little girls.. etc, etc."

So here is my deal. I have built (and am still building) my 2 door and it isn't too heavy (non piggish). I am not afraid to wheel hard but I don't hammer every obstacle with the throttle. I ease in and hammer if needed.

I want a Dana 60 front, but right now my front end is pretty stout (sleeves, truss, gussets, BJs, skids, etc.). I feel like the addition of RCVs and Reid knuckles would round out this combo pretty well.

I have heard of some of breakages in the rear 44 when running 40s, but not up front.

I feel like with a 1310 front shaft, the weak link would be that U-Joint. And that isn't really the end of the world.

So lets reopen this debate. Is a fully built Dana 44 front combined with a 1 ton rear end suitable for running 40 inch tires on a weight conscious 2 door JK?

Who has broken anything in their front Dana 44 front with 40 inch tires?

 

[JK Vick]

It's all about how and where you wheel. I ran 40" Toyo's all last wheeling season in my heavy 4 door with zero issues. She went through the Rubicon, Dusy Ershiam, and all of the rest of my local trails. Here in Cali our trails are all rocks. I very rarely have to throttle up shit. My 44's were sleeved, gusseted, trussed, with 5.13's and rear chromo's. But, you could probably throw a different driver in it and they'd scatter the fucker. I always knew that I was pushing their limits so I wheeled accordingly. And as of now, I'm throwing in 1 tons.

 

[JK Vick]

And also one last thing, if you're gonna run a rear 60, get a full float. So many guys running SF 60's run into bent flanges and other breakage. If you're gonna spend the cash, spend it once.

 

[tiltz]

It's all about how and where you wheel. I ran 40" Toyo's all last wheeling season in my heavy 4 door with zero issues. She went through the Rubicon, Dusy Ershiam, and all of the rest of my local trails. Here in Cali our trails are all rocks. I very rarely have to throttle up shit. My 44's were sleeved, gusseted, trussed, with 5.13's and rear chromo's. But, you could probably throw a different driver in it and they'd scatter the fucker. I always knew that I was pushing their limits so I wheeled accordingly. And as of now, I'm throwing in 1 tons.

It is a mixed bag here in the NW. We have a bunch of different trail systems that offer a good variety. The one common denominator is the wet which means more skinny pedal occasionally.

And also one last thing, if you're gonna run a rear 60, get a full float. So many guys running SF 60's run into bent flanges and other breakage. If you're gonna spend the cash, spend it once.

That is the plan. I would like to try my chances at building a junker rear end using 4 wheel speed sensors (and ditching the ones up front). I realize this would mean running a wheel adapter on the front axle, but the extra width would be welcomed.

I don't make enough money to justify how much I spend on my JK. Thus the reasoning to wait and not go 60 front for the time being. The money in it is already spent and while the Reid's and RCVs would add cost, they are easily re-sell-able if and when I make the jump.

 

[Rottenbelly]

My buddy runs 40's on his 44. He was beating on it hard enough to break a 35 spline rear axle and at the same time it twisted the front driveshaft (stocker) in half. The front is holding up better than the rear.
After seeing his show I would probably run 40's on mine.

 

[thedirtman]

The rear axle sees quite a bit more stress then the front due to the weight shifts during acceleration and on steep climbs where you have unloaded the weight off of the front axle. Minimize the tire spinning and running proper gears and 40's on a front 44 should be fine, not bulletproof but fine. Fitment might be an issue if you don't have 6"+ of lift in the steering department. Hydraulic assist would also be warranted if you plan on airing down off road.

 

[tiltz]

The rear axle sees quite a bit more stress then the front due to the weight shifts during acceleration and on steep climbs where you have unloaded the weight off of the front axle. Minimize the tire spinning and running proper gears and 40's on a front 44 should be fine, not bulletproof but fine. Fitment might be an issue if you don't have 6"+ of lift in the steering department. Hydraulic assist would also be warranted if you plan on airing down off road.

Um, well the plan is minimal lift < 4". Front axle is already pushed forward an inch. I'll have to run wheel adapters to get the lug pattern right up front which should add an 1" or so to each side. And then 3.5" back space wheels. I don't mind a little rubbing on the frame and I have Synergy long arms that have a slight bend in them which gives them a bit more clearance from the wheel.

And hydro is definitely on the list.

 

[JKred07]

Dynatrac came out and said they have seen little to no failures if the JK D44 FRONT R&P, regardless of the tire size, which was a big driving factor in why they created the 44/60 hybrid.

Width is really the only issue, but I wouldn't be two concerned with the front gears in the 44 and a 60 in the rear with 40's.

Tho some people can break anything.

 

[mschaffer66]

It's all about how and where you wheel.

Yeah...I think that is the biggest factor by far.

We all go out and spend hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars on pretty winches and winch bumpers to sit on the front of our rigs but I swear I can count on one hand how many times I've actually seen people pull cable. Why buy a big ass winch if your ego and pride are larger and you never want to use it?

A smart man with common sense, a winch, and some self control will probably have no problem with 40's on a 44.

An idiot trying to prove something will blow out a D80 with stock tires.

 

[abendx]

I debated this when I got the set of 40s I am running.... It was going to be a month or two before I started the rework and I'd have liked the extra size. My 44 is built up like yours... but with the RCVs and Reids already done.

I personally feel that a well built 44 can handle 40s.... but, I didn't do it because I have already used the RCV warranty twice with 37s... I felt I was asking for problems, as Murphy likes to hang out over here. You'll be taking a chance for sure, but likely will be fine if you take it easy.

But... the larger issue is one that you brought up. Do you want to be that guy that ruins everyone's trip because you brought your junk under prepared? Remember, it costs a lot of money to even get out to the trailhead... so when this occurs, you are not only ruining their trip from a time perspective, but you made them toss a bunch of cash in the trash can. Honestly... I feel this is a better way to look at it. Unless of course, you don't care about your friends.

 

[woody67]

Um, well the plan is minimal lift < 4". Front axle is already pushed forward an inch. I'll have to run wheel adapters to get the lug pattern right up front which should add an 1" or so to each side. And then 3.5" back space wheels. I don't mind a little rubbing on the frame and I have Synergy long arms that have a slight bend in them which gives them a bit more clearance from the wheel.

And hydro is definitely on the list.

Vick is running 3.5" poly coils I believe and was able to get 40s on with minimal work. So it can be done like you want. I don't believe you would have to run 4 sensors to the back either. Just run a 52 tooth tone ring (dynatrac) on the back to match the front, then everything would work as factory. The only reason the junkyard swap guys are doing this is because getting the front sensors to work is a little more involved and more $$$.

 

[abendx]

An idiot trying to prove something will blow out a D80 with stock tires.

Hey screw you too.... why ya gotta call me out like that.

 

[JK Vick]

Hey screw you too.... why ya gotta call me out like that.

One thing I forgot it add. If your name is abendx or desert dog none of the common rules apply

 

[Jaybee1669]

I was having a similar discussion witha firend the other day and we both came to the same conclusion. Most R&P failures happen in the rear because of weight shift and skinny pedal and people not getting off of it when they start to hop.

 

[thedirtman]

I am not saying you have to have 6"+ of lift to run 40's on a factory axle. That is just what I see most people doing to keep the steering.

Many factors will go into fitment on the factory width to be able to use 40's off road without rubbing and still have full steering. Track bar angle, shock travel, wheel bs, bump stop length, limiting straps, tire width, and coil height will all have something to do with fitment.

I find with my set up on 4" lift on 12" coil overs and 40" mtr's and a 2" front stretch I needed to net out a wheel bs of 1.5" not to rub when off road. I have 4.5" of up travel and have a limit strap at the differential.

 

[tiltz]

This thread is great. Thanks for all of the information and opinions!

 

[JKred07]

This thread is great. Thanks for all of the information and opinions!

You posted a dicey thread for sure! There be lots of opinions!!

 

[damon.l]

You posted a dicey thread for sure! There be lots of opinions!!

and so far it hasnt degraded into name calling and hissy fits... good job everyone!!

im at a fork in my proverbial road on the axle situation. just discovered my front 44 is bent and its time to upgrade. ive priced out 60s and i just cant afford it like id like. i want to build for "down the road" so i can move into some 40s if i decide to with this jeep, but i dont really see it happening.

me personally im going to stick with 37s and 44s. id love the peace of mind with the 60s for sure and be able to move up to 5.38s, but oh well. cant have everything.

 

[11jeeperdrummer]

I have a PR44 with RCVs, and Hydro is being installed next week. However, I dont think I will ever go bigger than 37-38 with it.. Maybe its being overly cautions, but I just dont want to risk it.. Honestly, I wont be going larger than the 35's I have now for a long while..

 

[tiltz]

I debated this when I got the set of 40s I am running.... It was going to be a month or two before I started the rework and I'd have liked the extra size. My 44 is built up like yours... but with the RCVs and Reids already done.

I personally feel that a well built 44 can handle 40s.... but, I didn't do it because I have already used the RCV warranty twice with 37s... I felt I was asking for problems, as Murphy likes to hang out over here. You'll be taking a chance for sure, but likely will be fine if you take it easy.

But... the larger issue is one that you brought up. Do you want to be that guy that ruins everyone's trip because you brought your junk under prepared? Remember, it costs a lot of money to even get out to the trailhead... so when this occurs, you are not only ruining their trip from a time perspective, but you made them toss a bunch of cash in the trash can. Honestly... I feel this is a better way to look at it. Unless of course, you don't care about your friends.

What did you do to your RCVs?