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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was wondering if anyone knows what I would to do beyond what I've done so far to run 37's on a 2dr rubicon jk. I have the nemesis notorious fenders, and swapped out the 2 door springs with a set from a 4 door rubicon which are longer and stiffer, aftermarket reinforced gate tire carrier, 2" wheel spacers, and I regeared it from the stock 4.10's to 4.88's. Everything else is on the inside such as stereo, speakers, etc. Also I don't have a lot of gear inside or a backseat and upon measuring I gained right around 1.5" of height on each corner from the 4 door springs. I have new driveshafts and axle shafts waiting for me at home and eventually plan on getting the metalcloak 3.5" game changer lift but the tires I want are currently on sale and my current stock tires are getting down close to needing to be replaced so was wondering what if anything else would need to be done to fit them.
Thanks
 

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Welcome to JKO.
You did not mention anything about your current wheel setup so we don't know your current wheel backspace. Not all shops may want to mount those tires on your stock wheels, depending on width.
Also, not all 37's are actually 37" so it might help to know which tire you are looking at.
Otherwise you are probably fine for the street. You will just want to check for interference an make adjustments to your suspension travel so nothing bumps or rubs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to JKO.
You did not mention anything about your current wheel setup so we don't know your current wheel backspace. Not all shops may want to mount those tires on your stock wheels, depending on width.
Also, not all 37's are actually 37" so it might help to know which tire you are looking at.
Otherwise you are probably fine for the street. You will just want to check for interference an make adjustments to your suspension travel so nothing bumps or rubs.
I got a set of black rhino apache wheels with 5.46" backspacing and 1.5" wheel spacers and what I was looking at are the Razr MT's which say when mounted they're 36.5" tall which is about as close as I've seen to a true 37. Amd I do have a set of adjustable bump stops and don't plan on doing any much wheeling this summer as I'm going to be gone helping out family but was hoping to get the lift in the fall so I can go out and wheel in the snow.
 

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So I was wondering if anyone knows what I would to do beyond what I've done so far to run 37's on a 2dr rubicon jk. I have the nemesis notorious fenders, and swapped out the 2 door springs with a set from a 4 door rubicon which are longer and stiffer, aftermarket reinforced gate tire carrier, 2" wheel spacers, and I regeared it from the stock 4.10's to 4.88's. Everything else is on the inside such as stereo, speakers, etc. Also I don't have a lot of gear inside or a backseat and upon measuring I gained right around 1.5" of height on each corner from the 4 door springs. I have new driveshafts and axle shafts waiting for me at home and eventually plan on getting the metalcloak 3.5" game changer lift but the tires I want are currently on sale and my current stock tires are getting down close to needing to be replaced so was wondering what if anything else would need to be done to fit them.
Thanks
What kind of wheeling do you plan on doing? I love both the Toyo Open Country M/T and the Nitto Grappler M/T. Neither of these are great on ice or slushy snow however, but are ok in Powder. Great off road in the dirt, rocks and mud I encounter here on Southern California Trails. My 2015 Rubicon has BFG KM2;s on it, and they are just ok in my opinion. When they wear out, I will get the Toyo or Nitto.
 

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So I was wondering if anyone knows what I would to do beyond what I've done so far to run 37's on a 2dr rubicon jk. I have the nemesis notorious fenders, and swapped out the 2 door springs with a set from a 4 door rubicon which are longer and stiffer, aftermarket reinforced gate tire carrier, 2" wheel spacers, and I regeared it from the stock 4.10's to 4.88's. Everything else is on the inside such as stereo, speakers, etc. Also I don't have a lot of gear inside or a backseat and upon measuring I gained right around 1.5" of height on each corner from the 4 door springs. I have new driveshafts and axle shafts waiting for me at home and eventually plan on getting the metalcloak 3.5" game changer lift but the tires I want are currently on sale and my current stock tires are getting down close to needing to be replaced so was wondering what if anything else would need to be done to fit them.
Thanks
From my experience, here are some things to put on your list or think about. They have nothing to do about fitment of your 37"s just some things to think about.

Beefier shock mounts - my drivers side eventually just broke off during a ride on a gravel rode.
Beefier Lower Control Arm Brackets - Mine have taken a real beating from coming down on a lot of rocks.
The Steering knuckle - My drivers side steering knuckle had to be replace because of a wallowed out hole. I am told this happens when you go bigger.
C-Clip Gussets - When my ball joints went bad and I replaced them with Sy***y ones (mistake) and we welded my gussets.
Steering Linkage (Tie Rod / Track Bar etc) - You may want to consider this eventually. I have my favorite which has been beaten up pretty good and has remained solid.
Control Arm Read Skids - One of the first things I did when I went with my MetalCloak True Dual (a step down from the Gamechanger)


Here is the wallowed out steering knuckle.

Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Gas


Here is the new one. No @BlueBabySound that is my thumb but it isn't hairy.
Gesture Finger Electric blue Wrist Auto part


Here is the broken Shock Mount and the new beefier one side by side.

Sleeve Wood Denim Pattern Button
 

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37's on a dd is dumb. I heard that here, but learned it irl.
Honestly, I think 37's is about the max a dd should go, and that's with wider 1 tons, upgraded brakes and all the jewelry.
What you really need as a minimum is a booster upgrade, bigger calipers, 3.5 inch b/s, full float 1 tons, hydraulic assist steering, upgraded front everything, flat fenders, mudflaps, a 4" lift to retain some up travel, and a got dang yellow duck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What kind of wheeling do you plan on doing? I love both the Toyo Open Country M/T and the Nitto Grappler M/T. Neither of these are great on ice or slushy snow however, but are ok in Powder. Great off road in the dirt, rocks and mud I encounter here on Southern California Trails. My 2015 Rubicon has BFG KM2;s on it, and they are just ok in my opinion. When they wear out, I will get the Toyo or Nitto.
Just about everything from snow to mud, sandy dirt roads, rocks, eventually I will heading to trails like the Rubicon, Firebreak 5 in Tillamook, Moab, Ouray CO, and hopefully Rousch Creek out in PA.
37's on a dd is dumb. I heard that here, but learned it irl.
Honestly, I think 37's is about the max a dd should go, and that's with wider 1 tons, upgraded brakes and all the jewelry.
What you really need as a minimum is a booster upgrade, bigger calipers, 3.5 inch b/s, full float 1 tons, hydraulic assist steering, upgraded front everything, flat fenders, mudflaps, a 4" lift to retain some up travel, and a got dang yellow duck.
Not exactly a dd as I'm a long haul trucker and only take 2-3 weeks off every summer and always go somewhere for wheeling except this year, for my dd I have an older grand Cherokee so the jkr is my fun vehicle.
 

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Just about everything from snow to mud, sandy dirt roads, rocks, eventually I will heading to trails like the Rubicon, Firebreak 5 in Tillamook, Moab, Ouray CO, and hopefully Rousch Creek out in PA.


Not exactly a dd as I'm a long haul trucker and only take 2-3 weeks off every summer and always go somewhere for wheeling except this year, for my dd I have an older grand Cherokee so the jkr is my fun vehicle.
Most all the trails in Colorado are doable in a stock Jeep. Rausch Creek is fun! You don't need 37's to have fun there. I want to go back and do Rock Creek on 35's. It's a bucket list item. For me it would be a challenge because that would show you know what the eff you are doing behind the wheel. Just like any of the places you mentioned.

Reach out if you go to PA I have lots of friends who would show you around Rausch Creek and AAOA. I know a guide in Moab too.

Another place you should add to your list is Kingman AZ. Now that is a place that you need 37's. I know a great group there.
 

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Most all the trails in Colorado are doable in a stock Jeep. Rausch Creek is fun! You don't need 37's to have fun there. I want to go back and do Rock Creek on 35's. It's a bucket list item. For me it would be a challenge because that would show you know what the eff you are doing behind the wheel. Just like any of the places you mentioned.

Reach out if you go to PA I have lots of friends who would show you around Rausch Creek and AAOA. I know a guide in Moab too.

Another place you should add to your list is Kingman AZ. Now that is a place that you need 37's. I know a great group there.
37's are fun though. This is a toy, so he can run 37's if he's careful with the skinny one.
Just copy n paste this link. It's a good bit of reading.

what's needed 37 tires site:jkowners.com
 

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37's are fun though. This is a toy, so he can run 37's if he's careful with the skinny one.
Just copy n paste this link. It's a good bit of reading.

what's needed 37 tires site:jkowners.com
Yes 37's are fun. I just wanted to point out they aren't necessary to wheel all those places. I find a lot of folks feel you need 37's to wheel Moab or the Rubicon. You don't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Most all the trails in Colorado are doable in a stock Jeep. Rausch Creek is fun! You don't need 37's to have fun there. I want to go back and do Rock Creek on 35's. It's a bucket list item. For me it would be a challenge because that would show you know what the eff you are doing behind the wheel. Just like any of the places you mentioned.

Reach out if you go to PA I have lots of friends who would show you around Rausch Creek and AAOA. I know a guide in Moab too.

Another place you should add to your list is Kingman AZ. Now that is a place that you need 37's. I know a great group there.
I will most of those places are gonna be a year or more out I might do Kingman first as my gf is originally from Prescott AZ and still has family and friends there she's always saying she'd like to see.
 

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So I was wondering if anyone knows what I would to do beyond what I've done so far to run 37's on a 2dr rubicon jk. I have the nemesis notorious fenders, and swapped out the 2 door springs with a set from a 4 door rubicon which are longer and stiffer, aftermarket reinforced gate tire carrier, 2" wheel spacers, and I regeared it from the stock 4.10's to 4.88's. Everything else is on the inside such as stereo, speakers, etc. Also I don't have a lot of gear inside or a backseat and upon measuring I gained right around 1.5" of height on each corner from the 4 door springs. I have new driveshafts and axle shafts waiting for me at home and eventually plan on getting the metalcloak 3.5" game changer lift but the tires I want are currently on sale and my current stock tires are getting down close to needing to be replaced so was wondering what if anything else would need to be done to fit them.
Thanks
A lot has already been touched on, and you have some great answers.

When I went to 37s (Heavy Toyo 37x13.5) the first thing that went south were the rear flanges, then ball joints, then unit bearings, then the steering (TR & DL). I had added the Artec truss kit which comes with beefed up skids for the control arms, etc. That Jeep always had something wearing out or breaking. It was frustrating.

The lessons I learned from that Jeep was to bite the bullet and make upgrades up front. So the next Jeep we installed aftermarket axles D60/D44, big brakes, steering, etc all up front. It's been great for 70,000 miles with no issues other than a leaky rear seal. Running a 37x12.5 lighter Cooper

Hindsight, I would have done full float axles and all the fixins up front. I prefer to be overbuilt from the viewpoint of durability (more than capability) which is pretty much what coilrod said in post #7

So back to Jeep #1 above, it's currently pulled apart getting full 1 tons, steering, brakes, etc. It was a long, winding road for me and I prefer to learn my lessons the hard way. In the end I spent WAY more money on that Jeep adding things onesy, twosy, and also had a lot more downtime.
 

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A lot has already been touched on, and you have some great answers.

When I went to 37s (Heavy Toyo 37x13.5) the first thing that went south were the rear flanges, then ball joints, then unit bearings, then the steering (TR & DL). I had added the Artec truss kit which comes with beefed up skids for the control arms, etc. That Jeep always had something wearing out or breaking. It was frustrating.

The lessons I learned from that Jeep was to bite the bullet and make upgrades up front. So the next Jeep we installed a aftermarket axles D60/D44, big brakes, steering, etc all up front. It's been great for 70,000 miles with no issues other than a leaky rear seal. Running a 37x12.5 lighter Cooper

Hindsight, I would have done full float axles and all the fixins up front. I prefer to be overbuilt from the viewpoint of durability (more than capability) which is pretty much what coilrod said in post #7

So back to Jeep #1 above, it's currently pulled apart getting full 1 tons, steering, brakes, etc. It was a long, winding road for me and I prefer to learn my lessons the hard way. In the end I spent WAY more money on that Jeep adding things onesy, twosy, and also had a lot more downtime.
I second this advice. It is a lot of money to do 37s right/dependably on stock configured axles. But it is far from optimal and actually has many shortcomings. I wish I had gone with better and wider axles from the beginning. I would have spent a lot less money even if I had gone with crate axles but I was headstrong. Now that I'm on 37s on standard width axles I see a lot of the shortcomings. I'm kind of stuck going down the path I'm on but it was easier (although not smarter) to spend more money over time for a compromised setup with 37s.

I kind of wish I had stayed with 35s and totally maximized everything to take advantage of that size tire. I would have picked aluminum for all my armor and just stayed with mild Dana 44s and spent a lot less money and had a more nimble and fun vehicle.

Another issue with 37s or larger tires is flex/articulation. As the tire size goes up, there is a reduction in up travel unless you start trimming and/or adding high clearance fenders. At 37s with Metalcloak overline fenders I lost 2" of up travel so I lowered my 15" 6pak shocks to regain lost shock travel. Now I have 31" of shock extension when compared to stock mounting location. This added droop to retain good articulation has caused; front driveshaft and exhaust clearance issues, rear driveshaft operating angle issues, unseated coil springs, driveshaft and gas tank clearance issues, wiring and cable and hose issues, reduced backspacing for tire clearance, accelerated bushing wear due to increased angles.

I do enjoy my 37s but there is a lot more maintenance and I regularly damage something because I am trying a lot harder trails to feel challenged. I'm at 2.75" backspacing to get the clearance I need. My gas mileage has tanked and I average 13.2mpg over the last 3 years. If I won the lottery I would still stay in this tire size range (38s sitting in storage) but would buy 70" wide Hi-pinion Dana 60s front and rear in 8x6.5" bolt pattern and go back to 4.75" backspacing.

Here is a list of parts during my path to 37s: (does not include lift parts)
Terra44R front housing, 5.13s, RCV shafts
Teraflex knuckles, balljoints (2 sets), 2 sets of hub bearings (I've been lucky), high steering and front big brake kit
Crown larger master cylinder (not J8 complete booster and mc kit)
Synergy sector shaft and TB brace (before hydro assist)
PSC hydraulic assist kit with big bore box (still using Synergy TB brace)
Teraflex 8x6.5" front locking hub kit and Teraflex inner shafts (Not installed yet)
G2 rear axle shafts, 5.13 gears
1310 front and 1350 rear driveshaft (1350 doesn't have enough operating angle for my rear suspension)
Mini rear stretch and new relocated heavy duty brackets
Synergy rear track bar brace
Teraflex rear full float 8 lug kit (not installed yet with larger rotors)
Artec Apex truss (not installed yet)
KMC 8x6.5" beadlocks and 38" Patagonia MTs (not installed yet)

I really do enjoy my Jeep but if I had more self control I would probably be 20k+ richer and I would take pride in doing more with less tire size. :p
 

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I will most of those places are gonna be a year or more out I might do Kingman first as my gf is originally from Prescott AZ and still has family and friends there she's always saying she'd like to see.
They have an amazing Jeep Community in the Kingman Area. Miles and Miles and Miles of amazing trails. There are enough there to wheel on 35's too, depending on your skill level.

Plus, The Mojave Road is just on the other side of the Colorado River.
 
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