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Anybody running 37's on 2dr's? I have a 2011 Automatic Im curious what all I can get away with keeping stock.... as far as gears and what not. Im considering Rock Krawler 2.5 max travel or a 3.5, and several different 3-4" Teraflex lifts. I cant decide if I should go with 37's and maybe tube fenders or get 35's and stock fenders. it also seems like I would get more flex with 35's
 

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Official Monkey Business
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Anybody running 37's on 2dr's?
LOTS of us are running 37"s with 2 doors.

For 37"s the RK 3.5 kit is perfect. I went with the RK 5.5 because I'll go larger tires after an axle upgrade. With the 3.5 you would be sitting about 2" lower than I am and that would be perfect and crazy flexi:beer:

As far as gears go, if you have a Rubi with 4.10 gears you can get away with it but it'll be a bit slugesh on the HWY. If its an X you will probably want to regear as soon as you can get the bucks together, but it will be drivable on the street. With the 37"s and an auto my Yukon 5.38's are perfect, turning 2300 rpm at 70 mph.

Be sure to put inner knuckel (C's) gussets on and maybe axle inserts on the front. They are pretty weak if you do much wheeling.

Nothing wrong with 35"s. But you are allready thinking 37"s. So I can tell you from experience, if you go 35"s you'll regret it.




 

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LOTS of us are running 37"s with 2 doors.

For 37"s the RK 3.5 kit is perfect. I went with the RK 5.5 because I'll go larger tires after an axle upgrade. With the 3.5 you would be sitting about 2" lower than I am and that would be perfect and crazy flexi:beer:

As far as gears go, if you have a Rubi with 4.10 gears you can get away with it but it'll be a bit slugesh on the HWY. If its an X you will probably want to regear as soon as you can get the bucks together, but it will be drivable on the street. With the 37"s and an auto my Yukon 5.38's are perfect, turning 2300 rpm at 70 mph.

Be sure to put inner knuckel (C's) gussets on and maybe axle inserts on the front. They are pretty weak if you do much wheeling.

Nothing wrong with 35"s. But you are allready thinking 37"s. So I can tell you from experience, if you go 35"s you'll regret it.





Going against the grain with a 5.5 inch lift huh? You are High COG. Hahhaa. LOL.
 

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Do the 37 inch KM2s actually measure out to be 37? I know that 35 inch KM2s only come out to be only 33.5! So I assume that the 37's would come out to be like a 35.5??
 

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Do the 37 inch KM2s actually measure out to be 37? I know that 35 inch KM2s only come out to be only 33.5! So I assume that the 37's would come out to be like a 35.5??
They are about (35.5, 36) it seems. Actual height is about the only thing keeping me from buying another set of KM2s unfortunately. Great tire opposed to that.
 

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heres mmy rig
Looks great.

I've got the 2.5" Max Travel (essentially, I pieced it together) and I'm going to 37's at Christmas. We'll see what has to get cut up to do it.
 

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Anybody running 37's on 2dr's? I have a 2011 Automatic Im curious what all I can get away with keeping stock.... as far as gears and what not. Im considering Rock Krawler 2.5 max travel or a 3.5, and several different 3-4" Teraflex lifts. I cant decide if I should go with 37's and maybe tube fenders or get 35's and stock fenders. it also seems like I would get more flex with 35's
You will be unhappy with the 4.10's or 3.73's w/auto and 37's. I did 37's, 4.10's, and auto for a bit. It blew. :shaking:

If your gonna do it, do it right.
 

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2.5 max travel vs 3.5

Is there any difference in the two kits except the 2.5 coils are progressive? I am going 37's in the spring and debating between the 2.5 max travel and 3.5 kit. I have a 2012 2dr Rubicon hardtop. Is the 2.5 going to net 3.5 or 4 inches or is the 3.5 going to be closer to 4.5 inches.

Question is, HOW TALL are these kits on a 2dr hardtop with very little gear?

PS i did search!
 

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Look at some of my posts. I'm driving or I would link. If you go 3.5 I'd go x factor and buy driveshafts front and rear at the same time.

The 3.5 coils are progressive too.

MediaMaxim was on 3.5 coils got a long time and is nor on 2.5.

Add about an inch to anyone's two door stated lift height. Anyone being Tera poly or RK.

Call me if you want to talk it over. 832-526-2415. I'll be back on the road in half an hour.

Marcus
 

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37's With no lift?

Anyone riding with 37"s, Rubicon, no lift and cut stock, made to flat fenders? Is this possible,0 or is 35's a better route for more articulation. I figure that even IF 37's were possible they would be stuffed in there and NO ROOM for any flex at all?

Any thoughts?
 

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Anyone riding with 37"s, Rubicon, no lift and cut stock, made to flat fenders? Is this possible,0 or is 35's a better route for more articulation. I figure that even IF 37's were possible they would be stuffed in there and NO ROOM for any flex at all?

Any thoughts?
With no body lift and no flares, with cutting off the front flare support bracket and very generous cutting in the rear fender well, you might be able to run stock bumpstops with 3.5" backspaced wheels.

The better way is to do 1.25" front and 2.5" rear extended bumpstops, with flat flares, a 1" body lift, rear EVO RockStar skids, and the very longest travel shocks you can run without bottoming out using those bumpstops. You can run 11" travel shocks--at least with OME LT shocks.



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3.5" and 37's

3.5" and 37's


I am in the process of building another 2 door as I have missed this one since I sold it. I will have pics soon.
 

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With no body lift and no flares, with cutting off the front flare support bracket and very generous cutting in the rear fender well, you might be able to run stock bumpstops with 3.5" backspaces wheels.

The better way is to do 1.25" front and 2.5" rear extended bumpstops, with flat flares, a 1" body lift, rear EVO RockStar skids, and the very longest travel shocks you can run without bottoming out using those bumpstops. You can run 11" travel shocks--at least with OME LT shocks.



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Hmmm. I like the better way, minus the body lift and flares.
 

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Another one- 37's/ 4.5" up.
 

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Can I do a 0" lift long arm and get some more downtravel?
Not without something like struts or coilovers.

Stock length short arms with flex joints on both ends, like Currie, are good for up to about 12" travel shocks. You don't need long arms for that, and you would sacrifice clearance.

With stock springs, you can't really run much longer than stock shocks.

So:

cut a ton,
run all 8 arms with flex joints and trackbars with heim or flex joints
cut and weld to run 12" travel coilovers with minimal effective lift
run 3.5" backspaced wheels




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