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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2011 2 door 6 speed 4.56 gear D30 sleeves and gussets with synergy steering components. But i still have factory axle shafts. Right now I have trail grappler 35s. I will be installing 37x13.50 cooper discoverer stt tomorrow. Probably not the smartest decision. But who doesn't want 37! Now I'm trying to figure out what would be the best move next.

I'm trying to avoid re-gearing again so I was thinking of putting my Jeep on a diet and looking at replacing my Ace bumpers for Poison Spyder BFH front and rear with a TF hinged mount. That would shave around 160lbs.

Or I was thinking about replacing my shaft with RCV. But I was think if I do rcv that would make my R&P my weak link. I'm thinking it's cheaper to replace u joints vs R&P.

I only wheel about 6-8 times a year mostly in Indiana on trails with a few rock gardens. I tend to wheel pretty slow and methodical. If I don't feel comfortable I don't push it.

Is anyone running a D30 with RCV and open diffs?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Well if you like steering, I'd suggest hydro assist. Just my .02.
 

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Do they make RCV in 27 spline for the front? I did an e-locker for 30 spline axles and upgraded to 30 spline chromies axles. Seemed to be the better upgrade for the money. Also got my ring and pinion cryo treated for $100. Suppose to make it up to 50% stronger if stronger is the right word.
 

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There is nothing wrong w/putting a good selectable locker (arb/yukon zip) in a d30, for mild to moderate trails In a JK thats going to be wheeled 8-10 times a year. Lockers kick ass.

Fuck the RCVs. Get stock trail spares and put a locker in it
 

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I have a 2011 2 door 6 speed 4.56 gear D30 sleeves and gussets with synergy steering components. But i still have factory axle shafts. Right now I have trail grappler 35s. I will be installing 37x13.50 cooper discoverer stt tomorrow. Probably not the smartest decision. But who doesn't want 37! Now I'm trying to figure out what would be the best move next.

I'm trying to avoid re-gearing again so I was thinking of putting my Jeep on a diet and looking at replacing my Ace bumpers for Poison Spyder BFH front and rear with a TF hinged mount. That would shave around 160lbs.

Or I was thinking about replacing my shaft with RCV. But I was think if I do rcv that would make my R&P my weak link. I'm thinking it's cheaper to replace u joints vs R&P.

I only wheel about 6-8 times a year mostly in Indiana on trails with a few rock gardens. I tend to wheel pretty slow and methodical. If I don't feel comfortable I don't push it.

Is anyone running a D30 with RCV and open diffs?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
You're gonna be a Cooper convert for life; a little secret that still befuddles me is how the STT is , seemingly, the best darn tire for an all - around , DD/weekend warrior on a JK I have run or encountered ( I cant speak for the new Falken MT that I am seriously interested in but I talked to them and only 17" wheel sizes first prod run the first of 2015 and then maybe different sizes for 15/16/18s whatever) and I have beat the living snot out of my 35x12.50x16s . I will admit they weigh a little, your 37" will be actually 36.48" and weigh 84-86 lbs....but they take a beat down , balance with little weight cause they be round, and are able to run really well and wear even if you keep them between 28-31PSI on pavement and I run them between 12 and 15 on rocks without Beadlocks.....they conform like jelly on rocks after ya break them in......love me some Coops.....

I am interested in your experience as I will be moving up to the 37" STT in about 4-5 months on my JKU and will maintain the present Ected Max in the rear 44 together w/ my open D30 [builtup] on front with gussets and sleeves.....I wheel very hard and also daily drive but am very very wise about the approaches and lines and have not bent my D30 [yet] with 35" STT....I have been on several trails that if I had just had a slightly larger tire I would not have rubbed the skids on so I will move up.....
 

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4.88 would have been a better option but 4.56 in a 6 speed should push those 37's just fine. theres guys running 37-40 in tjs on stock gears with the manual. its all about how you drive. my rig is a DD, 4.88 gears, same motor as you, open front locked rear, jcr daggar front, but no sleves (id rather blow a shaft than my spider gears. lol, blow a shaft....) granted i run 33's and its super easy to push those but ill be at 37 before i hit 100K. id give it a try, definitly loose the unneeded bulky ace and go lighter, that should help a little but you should have no issues with that 6 speed ad being able to control the tranny. worse case scenario you regear higher but i doubt youll need to
 

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Well if you like steering, I'd suggest hydro assist. Just my .02.
This, it's next on my short list. It'll happen this winter when it stops being too shitty to work outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
4.88 would have been a better option but 4.56 in a 6 speed should push those 37's just fine.
I geared to 4.56 when I had 33 or 35s. I think going to 4.88 would be a waste of money and 5.13 I think would be to much so this is why i put "MRSTRSS" on a diet. I sold my ace front and rear bumper today and ordered a Poison spyder brawler lite and and BFH rear with TF hinged carrier. This should have about 160 lbs. And as far as the RVC i thought about and im just going to grab a few u joint and throw in my trail bag and put up a set of stock shafts.

Hopefully this will get by till i can build up a somthing else.
 

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Hold it, cowboy, let me save you the grief that's coming. Waste no more money on that D30. Just bite the bullet and order a Pro Rock 44 or Teraflex 44 with RCVs & ARB and get on with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If I had the money i would of already ordered a prorock or a teraflex. But wheeling is Indiana is not the same as out west. Mostly trails with dirt and only a few rocks. There are alot of people around here who wheel D30 sleeves and gussets with 37 with little trouble. Heck there is even a few that run 40s and beadlocks. :eek:
 

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Granted I'm running the 3.8L, and have locked D44's on 37's....but...
I agree about wanting the axle shaft to be the weak link instead of the R&P. Much easier to pull the axle shaft than to deal with a broken R&P.

Definitely sleeve and gusset the front axle.
 
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