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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2008 jeep jk 2dr. With a Rough Country 2.5" coil lift, and a set of Rough Country upper and lower adjustable control arms and front drag link basicly making a 2.5" X-series lift.

I was told by an off road shop that I could remove the passenger front upper control arm to gain some flex. But I'm a little worried about doing this, one, this is also my daily driver, two, would the factory mount be able to withstand all the forces added to it be running just a single link?

Any thoughts or advice would greatly help
 

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I highly doubt you would gain any more "flex" over what you have now.
There are other things that will determine your articulation besides that one arm. Shock length, bump stops, driveline angles, control arm joints.

A properly set up 3 link will give you some pretty good articulation but just removing one of the arms will just put extra stress on the remaining upper arm and frame mount.
 

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Eh, the cast mount in the differential is plenty strong enough. I don't know if I would trust the factory frame mount. And idk if I would trust the link on the trail.

Plus everything dirtman said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm running Rough Country shocks that are the correct length for the 2.5" lift, and with that little of lift the drive shaft angles are not bad, the Rough Country links have all rebuildable hemi joints at the frame end and rubber bushings at the axle end. The kit standing alone is comparable to RK 2.5" Max flex kit, so lots of articulation as is, but I wanna tune this kit to its full potential. I agree there is a lot factors involved other than just that link, and the weak factory frame mount, but let's say if I beefed up that mount ran the single link, how much different would it be than RK's 3 link set up other than the length of the arms?
 

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I'm running Rough Country shocks that are the correct length for the 2.5" lift, and with that little of lift the drive shaft angles are not bad, the Rough Country links have all rebuildable hemi joints at the frame end and rubber bushings at the axle end. The kit standing alone is comparable to RK 2.5" Max flex kit, so lots of articulation as is, but I wanna tune this kit to its full potential. I agree there is a lot factors involved other than just that link, and the weak factory frame mount, but let's say if I beefed up that mount ran the single link, how much different would it be than RK's 3 link set up other than the length of the arms?
i think what the other guys were getting at is this. jack up your front end. let the axle drop to its max. now, disconnect the shocks. does it droop further?

if it does, you wont gain anything by chopping off the arm. a 3 link is nice and flexy, but it doesnt so much create more articulation and is does reduce bind in the control arms
 

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If you want to increase the articulation you want to trim your fenders, remove some bump stop, and run some 12"-14" travel shocks with some well placed limiting straps (3 of them). Once this is done running a 3 link will give you the most bind free articulation with your limiting factor being the driveshaft clearance and the short control arm length.

You will also need to cut/change the upper or lower shock mounts to maximize travel. And btw your rc lift does not "flex" any more then the stock suspension does, it may have slighlty less bind in it but it is the longer shocks that allow you for more droop. If you happen to be running 2.5" extended bump stops you will be back to the factory travel lengths.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok I understand that, it would not give more articulation it would just let the suspension move more freely, than then 4-link setup. I'm guessing there are more cons of the 3-link setup like I was describing then what I would gain.

I'm just trying to build a low center of gravity trail rig with good articulation and see what all my options are
 

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Please take into account everything these guys had to say! They are spot on. Just to summarize;

First, you really need to make sure the components were designed to take the loads as a 3 link versus a 4 link.

Second, you might not gain any articulation as you will be limited with your current configuration by springs and shocks.

Third, by switching to a 3 link you will get better vehicle balance off-road because you did take away all the natural binding that occurs with a 4 link with track bar.

We did that very same setup on Don's JK who competed in Rock Krawler (aka MallKrawler) on here! We will be releasing a mid arm "Ultimate Krawler" kit this year that is specifically designed as a 3 link front and 3 link rear for JK's.


Great work guys!

RK
 

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Please take into account everything these guys had to say! They are spot on. Just to summarize;

First, you really need to make sure the components were designed to take the loads as a 3 link versus a 4 link.

Second, you might not gain any articulation as you will be limited with your current configuration by springs and shocks.

Third, by switching to a 3 link you will get better vehicle balance off-road because you did take away all the natural binding that occurs with a 4 link with track bar.

We did that very same setup on Don's JK who competed in Rock Krawler (aka MallKrawler) on here! We will be releasing a mid arm "Ultimate Krawler" kit this year that is specifically designed as a 3 link front and 3 link rear for JK's.


Great work guys!

RK
a mid arm 3 link front? do you move the frame side brackets at all, or will it just be swapping out the axle side joint? I certainly would love to look at something like that! i like the rear 3 link so far!
 

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If you want to increase the articulation you want to trim your fenders, remove some bump stop, and run some 12"-14" travel shocks with some well placed limiting straps (3 of them). Once this is done running a 3 link will give you the most bind free articulation with your limiting factor being the driveshaft clearance and the short control arm length.

You will also need to cut/change the upper or lower shock mounts to maximize travel. And btw your rc lift does not "flex" any more then the stock suspension does, it may have slighlty less bind in it but it is the longer shocks that allow you for more droop. If you happen to be running 2.5" extended bump stops you will be back to the factory travel lengths.
extend those brake lines and speed sensor lines as well if they are shorter than the limiting straps. :koolaid:
 

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In the process of coming out with the new Mid Arm and Long Arm Ultimate Krawler Systems, we will be offering an independent 3 link upgrade for everyone so they can safely convert to it!

We think there are pictures of Mall Krawler's build on here when we first did it way back in 2008!

RK
 

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I 3-linked my front end. Using the stock axle brackets on the driver side to a stretched radius arm, (homemade) and then a single long lower control arm (homemade) on the passenger side. Lower control arm mounts are just in front of the transmission cross-member. RE 3.5" springs and rod ends all the way around, Bilstein 4-6" long-arm lift shocks.

Articulates well with no binding until hitting the limit (in my case, the springs, as they are clamped top-and-bottom). However, I'm a bit concerned about the strength of the axle tubes on the Rubi 44. The front end does some walking while spinning the front tires on obstacles. It feels and looks like the front axle is trying to escape from under the Jeep.

So if you're going to 3-link I suggest you look into reinforcing your axle tubes first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I 3-linked my front end. Using the stock axle brackets on the driver side to a stretched radius arm, (homemade) and then a single long lower control arm (homemade) on the passenger side. Lower control arm mounts are just in front of the transmission cross-member. RE 3.5" springs and rod ends all the way around, Bilstein 4-6" long-arm lift shocks.

Articulates well with no binding until hitting the limit (in my case, the springs, as they are clamped top-and-bottom). However, I'm a bit concerned about the strength of the axle tubes on the Rubi 44. The front end does some walking while spinning the front tires on obstacles. It feels and looks like the front axle is trying to escape from under the Jeep.

So if you're going to 3-link I suggest you look into reinforcing your axle tubes first.
Do you got any pics of that setup?
 

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I would be concerned too just running a single radial Y arm, there has to be a massive amount of stress on that single upper arm. I would be more concerned where the upper arm connects to the lower in terms of failing.
 
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