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Discussion Starter #1
So I Spent some money over the last few months parting together what I think will make my JK better equipped for my style of wheeling.

I will try to post as many tips as possible from my experience since this was my first time doing these type of upgrades myself.

I hope this is helpful for someone.
Feel free to provide suggestions and critiques.

Some of the topics I hope to discuss:
-DIY Hydro Steering experience
-Advanced Adapters JK Transfer case shift cable
-Different skids and protection.
-AntiRock Front Swaybar
-RCV rebuilt
-Exhaust
-Rockhard products
-BAD Wheels Inc beadlocks
-IAS co2
-PSC HD crossmember
-Etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Beadlocks.

After a lot of consideration I decided to go with B.A.D. Wheels Inc. for my hard earned money for the following reasons.
-Made in USA.
-17inx10in and 3.5in of backspacing on 5x5 bolt pattern
-RAD valve.
-Sacrificial rock rings, with options for dynamic balancing rock rings and other cool compatable "rings", like bolt on weights for pulling contests and mud plates.

Kevin, the owner is a hardcore wheeler at heart. He is very passionate and mindful about what he does and it shows in his customer service and his products and ideas.

I am putting together a short video about the internal headlock install process.
Pictures will have to do for today.





You mount the tires with the rock rings installed. DAWN dish soap helps the whole mounting process also.




Once the tire is mounted like normal you wedge the tire open and install the locking ring parts. This is a time consuming process and I didn't feel safe doing it my self with no one in the building at work for fear the wedges would come loose and my hands would get stuck in the tire. I went slow and steady and all was good.
Kevin says the bigger the tire the easier it is to install the locks. 35in is the smallest tire you can use on these wheels.





I couldn't help my self but to do the good ol tires in front of jeep to "try them on" camera trick.



Then I took the rock rings off for paint.
Good Prep and keeping everything clean are key along with thin layers for good spray paint work. I want some little skull stencils to do a some around the rings.


 

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Discussion Starter #3
Front Axles rebuild.

I was installing my sway bar and found this unpleasant sight.



Both sides have cracked boots. This seems unusual because I am always under my jeep and I grease the joints as recommended.
RCV has been great to work with to get this resolved. They offered to clean and inspect the axles free of charge and pay for return shipping. After talking with Josh in the shop I choose to have new bearings and cages put in considering the free labor and ithe axles were already out of the jeep. $200 for the parts. Cheap insurance in my book after 20,000 miles of use, failed boots and possible contamination.

Only way I can figure both boots cracking is from an environmental factor. I think it was possibly the degreaser I use to clean up under the jeep. Red Thunder. It has also burnt the anodizing off of my motorcycle swing arm in the past...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I got the axles back along with some outer axle seals.

Put everything back together with anti seize.

The boots went on easily with some RCV grease smeared on the rim of the boot and on the metal ball surface.



RCV Earns my highest marks for customer service, communication and products. Thanks RCV!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Tranny cooler was leaking at the lower inlet around the hose.

Replaced the crap worm gear hose clamps with these nice 3/8 fuel injection clamps.

Installed a Magnefine AT/PS filter at the same time.




 

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I just put some B.A.D. Wheels on myself. Love them. I decided to go with the dynamic balance rings. Should have mine on next week. Running the prototype ones right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Checking on clearances with my Ram assist ad realize its getting hit by the Rock Krawler old style straight drag link. Only option to remedy this was to go with a Synergy drag link since it has a bend. Its also easier to adjust in my opinion. What i Like about the RK Drag link was that it along with the RK tiered all used the same TREs. O well...

Tim at Northridge came through again. Thanks Dude!

Check it out.

Turned all driver. The drag link is hitting the bolt.



Turned all passenger. Just barely clears the bottom of the bolt with the tie bar.



New synergy link. Haven't tried with ram yet.



Angle I think I need to clear the ram mount bolt.

 

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I just put some B.A.D. Wheels on myself. Love them. I decided to go with the dynamic balance rings. Should have mine on next week. Running the prototype ones right now.

Please let us know how those rings work for you. Sounds like a interesting option.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The Synergy drag link pinch bolt broke with hardly any pressure. Looking closer it looks like the weld only penetrated in two tiny spots.

I called Northridge and Tim and Eric took care of me right away by making contact with Chris at Synergy who sent a new one out 2-day air. Very easy return, no questions asked.

Thanks Guys! It's always a pleasure to do business with Northridge4x4 and Synergy.

 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
My buddy and I installed the Teraflex 2Low kit today.

It took 4.5hrs to do with 2 guys in the garage.

The crossmember needs to be lowered to make it easy to get at the top 2 nuts on the transfer case.

We also filled the case before putting it in the Jeep which made it easier since we didn't have a fluid pump.

Very straight forward install.

Helpful video on Youtube

Found all the Tq specs on
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-ups/jeep-jk-wrangler-torque-settings#nv241or

Does anyone know why there is one 13mm case bolt and the rest are 10mm? Cant think of why that would be...

Just a pic of the open case. Was too tight on time and didn't think of taking more pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My most recent task.
Cleaning and repacking my Currie Johnny Joints on the control arms to try and pin point a creaking/popping noise I picked up in moab this year. I also put new tie rod ends on my RK tie rod. Tightened up my sway bar links. Tightened the operand lower shock bolts. Haven't had the chance to drive it yet. Hope its better.



I ordered the Rokmen Joint tool. $89 shipped.

http://www.rokmen.com/diy-fabrication/rokmen-products/test2/rm80023-johnny-joint-rebuilt-tool.html

Nice tool, good customer service and easy to contact a real person. I wish they made more stuff for JKs...



I changed out the grease zerks as well.

The joints feel like new again. They had 30k on them and were really stiff and hard to move.

The
 

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Yep, i used Curries tool. Made changing a bad joint easy.
 

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The 2Low conversion looks like a pretty easy install, but whats the reason for installing it? When/why have you needed it?

Also what position do you put your T case shifter into to engage it?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The 2Low conversion looks like a pretty easy install, but whats the reason for installing it? When/why have you needed it?

Also what position do you put your T case shifter into to engage it?
I use it 95% of most trails. In fact its kind of fun to try obstacles in 2wd low just to see how good of a line you picked. If not then pull lever back to 4wd low and finish it. It shifts from 2wdlow to 4wdlow on the fly. You just have to be stopped to go from 4wd high to the low gears.

It keeps you in the low gearing but there is no front end bind when turning.
I did it because it makes sense to me, and I couldn't get an atlas in time for moab.
Less front end wear and tear.
It is also helpful taking my boat out of the water because i can still turn on dry pavement and have the low gearing.

It was an easy install, and one of the best bang for the buck mods I have done.
I tried to order an atlas before Moab this year but wasn't able to get it built and shipped in time so I did this and I don't think I care to spend the $ on the atlas now.

I also did the advanced adapters HD shifter linkage kit at the same time. That took more time to do the the 2wd low kit.

Either way, this set up, 2low+HD linkage+electric locker bypass switches, was flawless for my entire 3000 mile trip to Moab.

The shift pattern is

2H
4H
N(was 4H)
2low(was N)
4low

Before I bought it I read that some people complained about difficulty shifting the transfercase from the H gears to the L gears after this mod, like it was stuck or something, but if you are ever so slightly rolling you will never have an issue. At least thats my experience.
 

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Great info, thanks for taking the time to explain it. When I have to drop my transfer case, and I will to replace the clutch someday, I'll install the 2Low kit. Seems like it might come in handy!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This thread is back in service.
I am doing my yearly Tune up and run through from the years beating the old girl took. Stay tuned.

-Spark Plug change
-Dynatrac ball joint failure and replacement
-TF Big brake caliper rebuilds
-TF Rear big brake install
-Rubicrawler install.
-Tie Rod end comparisons
-Oil catch can mod
-12v hard wired LED work lights installed for trail repair usage
-Bajadesigns lights install
-Warn winch 12000S
-custom exhaust
 

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Tranny cooler was leaking at the lower inlet around the hose.

Replaced the crap worm gear hose clamps with these nice 3/8 fuel injection clamps.
Just an FYI, I have seen at least 3 failures on that style of cooler. My self included. I replaced the clamps and trimmed the hose back and still had weeping. Pulled the hose off the next time and the nipple came with it.

Good luck, and thanks for posting your build..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So trying to get back at updating this thread, here it goes...

I was having a slight miss/hesitation at idle and decided to change out the spark plugs as a first remedy. It worked, miss/hesitation gone and it actually feels a bit more peppy on initial throttle engagement from a stop. Not sure why but its noticeable, not just in my head...

Heres what they looked like, not too bad but the clearances were open about .005 more than spec and the electrodes were rounded. Im a believer in "proper maintenance is cheap insurance".

The plugs are in order from a perspective of sitting in the driver seat. So it seems the Passenger side is running a bit richer than the driver side. Any ideas on this from anyone as to why that would be? I was thinking that the coil it is on the driver side so they have an advantage of less resistance because of the plug wires being shorter therefore burn a bit hotter. Maybe thats a crazy thought though... INPUT ANYONE?



As far as the process of changing spark plugs.
Straight forward. Some things to consider.
-Do one at a time to keep the wires and firing order the same.
-Take out the Passenger side fender liner, saves a LOT of time.
-Have some different extensions and swivels handy.
-I know theres different opinions on this, but I chose to put a very small dab of hi temp copper anti-seize on the threads.
-Use the factory recommended plugs from the dealer. Don't cheap out on this. It will bite you in the a$$...
 
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