25.00 Rear Washer Hose Fix

After a summer of taking the hardtop on and off, my rear window washer hose stretched a little. No big deal, right? WRONG!!!!
As I found out, every time I've tried to use the washer since the weather turned cold and rainy, the hose pops off the fitting and sprays the inside of the Jeep. So here's my fix, a little pricey maybe, but it works very well.


The Parts List, all from McMaster-Carr:
5012K192 Acetal quick-disconnect tube coupling socket 6.71 ea
5012K252 Acetal quick-disconnect tube coupling plug 6.29 ea
9579K63 Nylon double snap-grip hose and tube clamps 20/6.53
Total cost 19.53, my shipping was 5.00 for a grand total of 24.53. Yours may vary.

Tools needed:
Needlenose pliers
Regular slip joint pliers
Knife, if you're allowed to have one.
Scissors if you can't have the knife.

Time required:
about 15 minutes in 27 degree weather

These particular couplings have internal valves, so when they are disconnected they don't leak. Perfect for this application.

Here's what you get:


Valve closeup:


Clamp closeup:


AA battery to show size:


OK, let's get started. Here's a picture of how mine was before the re-fit for reference, and yes, the tag says "REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT" because I'm getting old and drove out from under the top one day and could not figure out why the top wanted to follow. The red tag reminds me to disconnect the wires and hose.


Disconnect the wire loom and hose. Cut 1.5" off the hose end. Take that small piece and push the end that was originally connected to the top on the barbed end of the quick disco socket. Put a clamp on, positioning it midway where the barbed end is and using pliers squeeze it snug. Put another clamp on the other end and squeeze until only one or two teeth engage. I chose the socket to stay with the top because it looked less rugged than the plug. You may use either part, the end result will be the same.


Take the assembly and push the free end of the hose on the hardtop fitting, locating the clamp in an upright position. Using needlenose pliers, squeeze the clamp until snug. This may take a few tries to get it right, the pliers in that tight of a space have a hard time gripping the clamp evenly. If you goof up a clamp, you have 18 more in the bag.


Close up of assembly installed:


Now, remove the factory hose plug that is installed on the hose bundled with the wire loom and discard. We don't need no stinkin' plug. Slide a clamp over the hose end and push the remaining quick disco on the hose. It's a tight fit, but it will go. Position the clamp midway where the barbed end is and using pliers squeeze until snug.


Push the ends of the fittings together until you hear a click. You now have a leakproof, blowout proof washer hose, that will disconnect better and easier than the factory setup. Neither end will leak when disconnected.
To disconnect, push the metal tab. The two ends will pop apart on their own.


Push the electrical plug back in the socket and admire your handywork.
You are now done.