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Hello, We have an ongoing issue with our 2017JK. The battery is nearly dead after 1 week of sitting without starting. We had it repaired 2 years ago at a local mechanic shop and the guy replaced the fuse holder assembly under the hood and assured us that would solve this issue but he was wrong. The problem has shown back up recently but now we've lost faith in the local repair guy. Has anyone had this problem and if so would you share what was in need of replacement or repair?
Thank you for your time and any possible help. Respectfully, Tom
 

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Something is sucking the juice from the battery its just a matter of isolating it.

You can try to hook a volt meter between the positive post and cable, then pull fuses one at a time and see which one drops the meter to 0.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the tip! We plan on trying your suggestion tomorrow and hopefully we'll find out something. Thank you again!
 

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This is unrelated to your issue, but might help someone else with low battery performance doing a search on this site.

I was going through 4 year warranty batteries once a year. They were getting sick of me coming back for credit towards the purchase of a new battery.

Turns out I had to shift to an Optima battery... guess it's some type of gel versus a standard liquid battery? Anyway, turns out all the 4-wheeling and bouncing around was really hard on my batteries. Since switching, things have improved significantly.
 

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Just make sure that you give it time to go through the self diagnostic routine when you open the hood, door, any switches or have the key in the ignition. You will otherwise see draw in some circuits.
 

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I had a similar problem on my Element. I know, I know, it's not a Jeep but I think they are similar on some level as far as computer control module operation is concerned. In my case I had a tailgate switch(one of two) that was not closing. It did not turn on the dome light or the indicator light. Battery charge would last about 1 week (I rotate vehicles). Found out that the open latch switch was keeping a body control module in an "awake" state and, as a result, was drawing a higher than normal amount of amperage. There were no obvious indication of the switch being open.
I believe (and I could be wrong) that the Jeep CanBus operates in a similar manner. It essentially goes to "sleep" after certain conditions and time are met and then the amperage draw drops to a normal level. I believe there are measurable specs for normal amperage draw. HTH...
 

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That enjoyable world of CAN data transmissions over a CAN network !
Isn't it a grand idea and concept ,saving so much copper and resources! Ugh ....

You know that the uninformed sometimes refer to CAN as 'synchronous'. In reality, the term 'synchronous' is kinda misleading 'cause CAN data is transmitted without any form of time/clock signals & in an asynchronous format...


but it'll SURE screw stuff up real good and should be killed with :flame:🔥

(lots of resources online can explain all the 0s & 1s involved if ya use yer Google-Fu

 
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