[snout]

Your move...Are you going to calm your tits or block me????

I can't say I have never banned or blocked anyone for having an opinion, even someone like you.
I will tell you that you need to stay on topic or I'll happily close the thread and this place will move right on along with or without you or your opinions.
Again, thedirtman is trying to help you and yes, he knows more than you. You should try paying attention.

 

[adamkphillips1]

I can't say I have never banned or blocked anyone for having an opinion, even someone like you.
I will tell you that you need to stay on topic or I'll happily close the thread and this place will move right on along with or without you or your opinions.
Again, thedirtman is trying to help you and yes, he knows more than you. You should try paying attention.

My sole effort has been to stay on topic....you should try reading an entire thread before further deviating even from the topic!!!!!

 

[snout]

My sole effort has been to stay on topic....you should try reading an entire thread before further deviating even from the topic!!!!!

I'll certainly do that. My point was that getting a differing opinion that opposes your knowledge and background may be exactly what you need here.
(As a mod, picking a fight will only get me the boot : ) )

 

[adamkphillips1]

I'll certainly do that. My point was that getting a differing opinion that opposes your knowledge and background may be exactly what you need here.
(As a mod, picking a fight will only get me the boot : ) )

And that's exactly what I was/am looking for, however I understand how suspensions, engines and most things mechanical work, so will politely re-question input that is obvious BS and in many cases just regurgitated nonsense, as well as further a conversation by adding additional details or explaining why a particular theory doesn't make sense in this particular case. Again if you read through you will se I've been polite and grateful. I was fine with D (or is it P) man until he started acting like a snippy b!tck with that comment ...and I will share again to save you the trouble of scrolling back..."I love it when people that don't know what they are doing ask for help and question everything and think they are reinventing the wheel with some obscure product they find in an internet search" if you can help me understand how that was anything other than a provocation, I will gladly listen.

Irrelevant

as it may be I am adding a pic of the car I am building so you can see what I can build ....This didn't just fall together

 

[thedirtman]

Again, off road cars and hot rods are totally different, hell old jeeps and modern jeeps are totally different. The same principals do not transfer from one to the other. Crank 4" of preload into those coil overs and take that thing out on the road and tell me how well it handles.

 

[adamkphillips1]

The basic principles of geometry and mechanical function are highly transferable from an understanding perspective. The only reason I am on here is because I have an anomaly of sorts ....everything has been thoroughly looked at and integrity verified....At one point I clarified my issue clearly explaining the steering wheel feel/feedback. I guess you missed that one. must be in the steering box or even with the track bar/sector shaft brace there is still flex in the flimsy BS frame rails.

Now that the thread has turned to shit I'm just going to delete it and move on as I am certain no one is going to read all the bullshit and respond .."yes Adam my Jeep did the exact same thing and It was" - - - - - -?

 

[thedirtman]

And yet you have not even put it on a rack and posted actual alighnment numbers on the jeep. I can tell you your wheel base is short now and your geometry is in fact off. I get people all the time that come to my shop with the same issues because of too tall incomplete lifts. Camber is another thing that is typically out of spec even on new jeeps off the line. On a solid axle vehicle the suspension geopmetry will affect the steering feel and wandering effects when driving down the road. The roll center is an important thing a lot of people overlook.

 

[adamkphillips1]

I HAVE HAD AN ALIGNMENT CHECK AND ALL WAS WITHIN FACTORY SPEK. At that point in time it had cam bolts on the axle side lower control arms. Not trusting these POS's I installed (as explained earlier) the Rancho upper control arm relocation brackets that relocate the front axle forward (restoring most of the lift induced wheel base loss) and have adjusted the mounting position to the point of 6* caster (shown in pics above in this very thread). Camber is only adjustable with shitty offset ball joints, camber shims or actually bending the axle housing, so not sure why you are harping on it. I fully understand roll center and understand on a lifted solid axle vehicle it will always be sub optimum. I could probably raise my rear track bar, however I am not overly concerned with this right now BECAUSE AS STATED MULTIPLE TIMES...MY PROBLEM IS GOING STRAIGHT DOWN A STRAIGHT FLAT ROAD, it actually corners very well for a solid axle fairly tall vehicle

 

[thedirtman]

I thought you were going to delete this

 

[adamkphillips1]

I assumed you would have found something else to do with yourself, but sadly you are apparently as simple minded as I suspected 8 comments ago

 

[adamkphillips1]

I thought you were going to delete this

..........The post and delete maneuver......what a ******* 🐱🐱🐱. And if you did read you would see several descriptions of what I experienced with any change that produced a result

 

[snout]

OP, I was re-reading your thread - you said you had a video you were unable to attach - do you have it on Youtube or some service? You cannot attach a local video file, which stinks. You need to link to it vs attaching it. Let me know if you need it posted on YT and have it linked here.

 

[rockystock]

Metalcloak arms / joints are excellent.

Don't think I read it earlier - your TB frame bracket hole isn't wallered out is it? That might cause the mystery shift. If it is, just put on one of the bracket braces out there (I use Synergy's bracket).

I ran a Synergy TB a few years back - it was the older version with a heim joint on the axle side. My Jeep was also doing some weird tracking like you mentioned earlier. Eventually, that heim joint got loose (like MAYBE 0.002" or something). I think the worn joint was enough to cause my tracking problem. I'm now running their dual durometer bushings on both ends and they've been excellent and MAINTENANCE FREE.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

 

[CRIK]

The drag link and track bar need to be parallel to each other (same angle). If not that will cause all kinds of weird handling. That is large part of our geometry. Maybe a pitman arm drop or relocation bracket that may or may not need to be there.
I also have JKSsteering box/sector shaft reinforcement, JKS front/rear track bar, steersmarts drag and tie rod, fox stabilizer and shocks. I run 17” w/32. 2” lift. It is a 2dr I do a lot of side hill. My jk spends most of its time in the dirt. Also, +5 castor. Castor can make a big difference. The more lift, bigger tires more castor.