[thedirtman]

I would expect you need a drag link flip up front and raised rear track bar bracket. Get an alignment at a good shop that specializes in 4x4's and get a print out. Camber is somehting that can get out of hand on a built jeep. Got any photos showing the front and rear set ups? Also something that is free is to loosen up all the control arms and track bars, shake the suspension up and down and then re-tourqe all the link bolts. You may also have an issue with your steering box. Do you have a drop pitman arm?

 

[thedirtman]

Whats the rear look like? The SS was a waste of good money. You have the factory pitman arm which is good. Check your steering box bolts and some good cleaning and painting would also be a good idea with the amount of rust showing already. If the rear track bar bolts come loose they can oval out the holes just like the front but won't give you death wobble like the front but will give you a wandering feel. Tires can also be an issue. Off road tires need to be roatated more than car tires do. A 3000 mile schedule or at oil changes is recommended. Poor quality roads can have an impact and will show up more on a jeep with wide tires.

 

[thedirtman]

are you running a raised rear track bar bracket on the axle?

 

[thedirtman]

What shocks are you running?

 

[thedirtman]

Quick question on this loosening all TB/CA bolts and re torqueing. What would this do?....Is there not sufficient articulation in the bushings that if torqued with the axles unloaded (on a lift) that when loaded there is basically a bind across those joints??.....does the inner metal insert in the bushings not rotate within the rubber??

The metal center section is pinched when you tighten the bolts so if this is not done at ride height your bushing are in bind. The joint does not roatate inside the arm.

 

[thedirtman]

Ball and socket style like a Johnny joint or Barnes Enduro joint. Also heims but I would not put them on a daily driver.

 

[thedirtman]

those are junk and will wear out fast.

 

[thedirtman]

And your basing this on what?????....they've been used for ever in the hotrod world

LOL, I did not realize you were building a hotrod. Take a minute and think about it.

I love it when people that don't know what they are doing ask for help and question everything and think they are reinventing the wheel with some obscure product they find in an internet search.

 

[thedirtman]

Seems like you did or you would not have posted it up. Hot Rods and race cars have a totally different type of supension over jeeps. The same logic does not apply. Urethane bushings are hard and don't flex well, they break down fast on a jeep with the longer travel it has vs a hot rod that has limited travel and typically has a very firm suspension. They we used years ago on jeeps and they just did not hold up. I would not recommend heims on a daily driver but a Johnny joint is perfectly fine and is used by many lift companies in their kits. They off good misaligment and still give some comfort with the race material they use. Metal Cloak and Synergy also make very good joints for the daily driver. I read your thread and installing 20" wheels with 35" tires and complaining about the ride is also a retard move in the jeep world. Good luck with your ******* up of a jeep.

 

[thedirtman]

If you say so hot rod, I mean installing tires made for ton truck towing heavy loads is perfect for a light jeep. The problem with your jeep is that it has too much lift on it and not enough things were replaced to correct the ****** up geometry. E rated tires, and stiff running bilstien shocks. Take a 911 and throw some 4" taller coils on it and take it for a ride and tell me how good it handles.

 

[thedirtman]

its the exact oppisite. Stiff small sidewall tires on a jeep will grab imperfections and ruts in the road and cause the jeep to wander because of the soft suspensions they have. Softer taller sidewalls will flex more and not transfer these things into the suspension as bad. Wide tires have the same affect at grabbing and causing wandering issues. The solid axle does not help and the transfer of articulation into the steering links. This is just part of your issues like I said with too much lift and not having the adjustable links in your suspension and steering to correct the geometry. You may also have a worn out steering box.

 

[thedirtman]

Again, off road cars and hot rods are totally different, hell old jeeps and modern jeeps are totally different. The same principals do not transfer from one to the other. Crank 4" of preload into those coil overs and take that thing out on the road and tell me how well it handles.

 

[thedirtman]

And yet you have not even put it on a rack and posted actual alighnment numbers on the jeep. I can tell you your wheel base is short now and your geometry is in fact off. I get people all the time that come to my shop with the same issues because of too tall incomplete lifts. Camber is another thing that is typically out of spec even on new jeeps off the line. On a solid axle vehicle the suspension geopmetry will affect the steering feel and wandering effects when driving down the road. The roll center is an important thing a lot of people overlook.

 

[thedirtman]

I thought you were going to delete this