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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here are some pictures and a small write up on how we install the loop delete kit from AFE after a Clayton Off Road Mfg long arm kit has been installed. We recommend welding in a small piece of exhaust tubing to bridge a gap that is created. This can be done without welding, but this will give you a more durable and leak free exhaust system.

Mark the pipe 3.25" down from the weld and cut with a sawzall. You will have to clean up the end of the pipe with a grinder and hammer the pipe round for the loop delete pipe:



Unbolt the end of the loop:



We like to take this clamp bolt out and flip it over for better access:



There is a slight straight section on the passenger side pipe that is almost horizontal. Mark it in the middle and cut through the pipe:



AFE loop delete installed:



AFE supplies new bolts for the tail end of the loop delete:



Grind the tab on the exhaust pipe off and cut about 1.5 inches off the length so it can go back further towards the rear of the Jeep. I made a mark at 1.5 inches for the stock location. This shows the exhaust has moved back about 1.25 inches:



Exhaust now has about a half inch of clearance to the front of the cross member and is about a half inch above the bottom of it:



Nice tight fit next to the cross member:




More to follow.

Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
 

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Discussion Starter #2
We are left with a gap on the passenger side:



A 2 inch connector piece will cover the gap nicely:



Here is the connector we use:



We welded this connector up to prevent any exhaust leaks:



It is a little tight welding all the way around at both locations. We found it easier to remove the Y pipe to finish welding then reattaching it when you are finished:



Another view of the connector welded in:


Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
 

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Doing the aFe Power MACHForce XP Loop Delete DP & Y-Pipe 2/2.5in SS-409 Exhaust Systems; Jeep Wrangler 12-14 V6-3.6L (4 Dr) 49-46217.

http://afepower.com/shop/details_new.php?partno=49-46217&menu=jeep&searchtype=engine&engineid=114&groupid=JW4&brandID=103


So far: driveshaft comes out, 3 bolt crossmember comes out, muffler and rear pipe come off. Hardest part is the exhaust hangers so far.

With the kit above the 2" extension is hopefully not needed. The cat is near impossible to remove. Upper 10mm bolts are easy as is the 2 O2 sensor plugs. But the bottom 2 10mm bolts are really inaccessible. I am going to use a sawzall as per the above, but I also have a cutoff tool. It will depend on how much space there is. Dremel will clean up the end of the pipe nicely. More to follow. Thanks for the write up. Only thing I can recommend is an exhaust hanger removal tool from Lisle.

 

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Here is the downpipe. After I cut off the cat pipe with loop 3.25" below the weld, I noticed this was going to sit too low and far back in my jeep.



So I removed an additional inch.



Now the back end of the downpipe is higher, and a little further forward. The midpipe clearance is great. It sits perfect on the hanger and the cross over pipe sits above and tucked in.



I still needed my Dremel to clearance the right sided pipe before it crosses over as it was in contact with the gas tank skid plate. This was done before the heat shield stickers.

All in all it was a 2/5 in difficulty. Having a lift helps. Unsure why I needed to cut extra pipe off but it fits perfect and there is no leaks. Plenty of room around the driveshaft. I think it adds a slight grumble to the exhaust, but that's likely all in my head. No performance test, but I assume not going to gain anything. 3.5" metal cloak on order with the OME/ARB shocks.
 
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