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Discussion Starter #1
The story: 2 years ago, my throw out bearing was making noise while still under warranty. My dealership suggested replacing the stock clutch with a better one while they replace the TB, so I purchased a SPEC 2+ clutch. I have had many wheeling adventures over these past 2 years, but the SPEC is giving up.

Should I go back to another SPEC clutch or try a Centerforce? Any other suggestion out there as well?
 

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You have already worn out the spec? How many miles? Were you hard on it? I would certainly think that even the stock clutch should have lasted at least 50K, even if you beat on it. Thats crazy though, I thought the spec 2 was suppose to last a long time, even with abuse
 

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You have already worn out the spec? How many miles? Were you hard on it? I would certainly think that even the stock clutch should have lasted at least 50K, even if you beat on it. Thats crazy though, I thought the spec 2 was suppose to last a long time, even with abuse
A clutch can last 1,000 miles or 100,000 miles. It's all within the driver and intended use. Longevity of a clutch can vary dramatically..I've put three clutches in the same car within 15,000 miles on a BMW. Therefore I wouldn't take everyone's experience as what you may see..

Sorry I'm not helpful to the thread, still on the stocker at 44k
 

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Yeah im still on the stocker as well, but at 25K. I try to be as easy on it as possible. I dont rev the rpms high while the clutch is engaged, I never dump it and I try to engage the cltuch as quickly as possible to minimize wear. I feel the stock clutch at times can be difficult to get a smooth engagement. Especially now that the cold is setting in, I have to release it super slow to get a smooth engagement. Is this a normal thing in cold weather?

No mean to hijack your thead, sorry dude, but I have heard only good things about both clutches you referenced. Is there a limited time warranty for the Spec you purchased possibly? Maybe they will replace it if it has given out already.
 

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My stock clutch was replaced at 68000 miles because of a bad TOB the disc and pressure plate looked fine. I replaced it with a Spec 2 and it hasn't been the same. It's only been a few months and it feels like it's slipping already. In my comunications with Spec they made me feel like an idiot and it was my fault, although after a few emails they agreed to look at if it I sent it to them. At this point in time I don't have the time or money to pull it, put a new one in, and wait for their decission.

After the holidays when I can get some cash together I figure I'll put another stock clutch in as it worked fine for 68000 miles and was only changed because of the TOB. During those 68000 miles my JK has been used and abused so the stock clutch must be OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My history: My 1st vehicle was a '71 El Camino 350 factory 4sd, so I was brought up on sticks. Yes, I burned out my first cltuch by resting my foot on the pedal, but I learned that lesson. I had a 1990 Dakota with +80K on a 5spd with the stock clutch. Next vehicle was a 2001 Dakota Quad Cab with +120K 5spd that towed a 2000 lbs pop-up all over CA and out to PA still on the stock clutch. Actually had to replace the tranny (due to front casing wear) before the clutch.

I don't spin the tires (tires too expensive). I don't ride the clutch. I engage the clutch quickly and sharply (I watch my wife sway back and forth out of the corner of my eye). I keep my trailer weight evenly balanced and below the 3500 lb limit. While I do like puddles and such, I would not try to extract myself using the clutch. 2 - 3 attempts, and it was time for a tug or winch. I would much rather stall the motor than spin wheels and break metal.

Being that the 2+ is a hybird, I'm wondering if the flywheel kevlar side just worn out.

I'm leaning towards a Centerforce stock replacement (style 1) and staying out of puddles.
 

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My TOB started going at 4k and I had it replaced with the stock clutch at 21k all under warranty. I'm pushing 63k now and my TOB is starting to show signs that its on its way out so I'm interested as to what everyone is replacing it with also.
 

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Replace it with whatever you want, but if you submerge the transmission under dirty water, it won't last long no matter which way you go.
 

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If you can have a brake and clutch shop build you a clutch go there.
. They cam put one together exactly how you want, but if you don't have a shop by you:

X2 on the Centerforce stock replacement. I've used them before and never had issues. I've burned up the kevlars before, for some reason they go faster.

I think the stickyness allows them to use less material, so they don't last as long.


Sent from my little magic box.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
when we did nick's clutch the springs were so toast that they were falling out of the clutch disc
Yeah, but he was running 35s or 37s and playing on the JK Experience video ;).

I'm running 33s and getting stuck in Wharton and Rausch.

I have my original stock clutch in the garage. Pressure plate looks OK and the friction disk has approx 1/16" material on both sides. I'm not going to reuse it though. I'm still looking at $577 for stock items (flywheel, disc, pressure plate and TOB) plus $480 for installation.

I so confused! :shaking:
 

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Yeah, but he was running 35s or 37s and playing on the JK Experience video ;).

I'm running 33s and getting stuck in Wharton and Rausch.

I have my original stock clutch in the garage. Pressure plate looks OK and the friction disk has approx 1/16" material on both sides. I'm not going to reuse it though. I'm still looking at $577 for stock items (flywheel, disc, pressure plate and TOB) plus $480 for installation.

I so confused! :shaking:
DIY?

By the way a flywheel is not "required" when changing clutches. It's not a bad idea, but you can also probably have the stock one resurfaced. Or do as most do, take a scrubby pad on a wizz wheel and clean it up...unless it's clearly blue'd or warped.
 

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DIY?

By the way a flywheel is not "required" when changing clutches. It's not a bad idea, but you can also probably have the stock one resurfaced. Or do as most do, take a scrubby pad on a wizz wheel and clean it up...unless it's clearly blue'd or warped.
X2

Some places that turn brake rotors can turn flywheels if your OCD about surfaces.

Sent from my little magic box.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
DIY?

By the way a flywheel is not "required" when changing clutches. It's not a bad idea, but you can also probably have the stock one resurfaced. Or do as most do, take a scrubby pad on a wizz wheel and clean it up...unless it's clearly blue'd or warped.
DIY: no time. And there are some things best left to those who have the right tools.

With the clutch replaced last time, the flywheel was resurfaced. There may be enough meat left this time.

I'm leaning stock (or close replacement). Thanks for all the comments.
 

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DIY: no time. And there are some things best left to those who have the right tools.

With the clutch replaced last time, the flywheel was resurfaced. There may be enough meat left this time.

I'm leaning stock (or close replacement). Thanks for all the comments.
Pete,

Please let Joan or I know how you make out if you go to the Centerforce one, more importantly what are you doing for the Throwout Bearing.

I was thinking of the SPEC one too but, had some bad experiences with a SPEC clutch on one of our older Mustangs

I'm not going for a 3rd OEM Mopar clutch and T/B. I just really want to find a solution to the "singer sewing machine" noise on the 08.

Thanks
Rich
 

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wait why would you replace the flywheel?

it's not a big deal to take it and have it resurfaced. the only time i've ever had an issue with that is when i had a clutch explode (on a high hp application) and gouge the flywheel pretty bad.
 
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