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Discussion Starter #201
I have the same problem with the Summit silicone hangers. My "temporary" fix was to double-wrap the fiberglass on either side of the hangers. Thermal radiation from the pipe seems to be the primary killer; so even though double wrap is not recommended for the tubing, it keeps most of the heat off the silicone.
Ah thanks for the idea. If wrapping thermal insulator around the bushing solves it, I'm more than happy to call that a solution. I don't have a lot of options because how I did my exhaust, I need constraint in all 3 axes, whereas stuff like that OEM hanger only offers true constraint in two axes.
 

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Ah thanks for the idea. If wrapping thermal insulator around the bushing solves it, I'm more than happy to call that a solution. I don't have a lot of options because how I did my exhaust, I need constraint in all 3 axes, whereas stuff like that OEM hanger only offers true constraint in two axes.
Using a double wrap around the tubing, on either side of the bushing bracket worked the best for me. Wrapping around the bushing itself helps too. For some of mine, I used some scrap pieces of wrap with the Velcro, like this:




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Grab the newest version of the link calculator from Pirate. It does both front and rear. The front and rear geometries are tied together more than you might think through the roll couple axis.

Generally speaking, most of the anti roll work is being done by the front end. CG is generally forward of midpoint because the front has more weight.

There's a reason why front spring are a higher rate. Also notice the size of stock swaybars F&R.
 

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Grab the newest version of the link calculator from Pirate. It does both front and rear.
Are you referring to this version?
 
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