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Anybody doing this? I have xrc armor front fenders and no rear fenders. 2.5 is in the back of a ups truck already. It's really hard to search for this haha. Would like to see pics of similar set ups

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This is what Nemesis did to Avenger's JK:

40” Goodyear MTRs with a 2.5” custom lift and some frame work. Not a very difficult job but will take some time any questions just ask.




The flares on the Burnsville Jeep are something that we put together especially for that truck. I would consider these a show flare since the Jeep in that area is very weak. This is why have attached our flare lower so that you are pushing against and attaching to one of the strongest parts of the Jeep. When you move the flare up it simply is attaching to the sheet metal which is not strong enough to withstand any real impacts. We will be working on a "highline" version that will be released at Easter Jeep 2011. Our task between now and then is to design a sub structure to go in behind the flare and reinforce the sheet metal so that we can develop the kind of strength required for today's hardcore wheeling.

Here are some pics of the Red JK.
Since I am new to the forum thing I am going to preface this with this should probably be a build thread so if it needs to be moved someone let me know.

There were a few constraints to this project which is why some of the modifications were completed to such a degree. The major one being the vehicle had to remain on the stock rims. This was difficult due to the offset which as I said took the modifications to another level.

The two major areas that had to be modified are the frame and the forward most body/grill mount. The frame was the easy part, simply cut out a section of the frame and plate it. The bigger issues was the body mount. Some people might just adjust the steering stops we figured that would be cheating. Instead we went in and removed the existing body mount and made a new one. The following pictures will take you briefly through the steps involved.

With the grill removed here is the stock body/grill mount.



We took all of the stock measurements so we could get things back to square and then began cutting and grinding all of the parts associated with the mount off. Next we built a new mount.





We cycled the suspension with no bump stops to check clearance. Found that a very minor part of the body required some trimming.





Everything looked good so we moved on to the frame. Pretty simple here just keep cutting until everything clears. The harder part was making the plate to fit the hole.



Check clearance.



We added a few weld gussets to make sure that there would be no failure in the future.



A few more shots from when we finished. With stock flares.



After our flares were installed.



Let me know if you need any more information. We also have all of these drawings saved so if you are interested in completing this yourself we can get you all of the parts we used.
 

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The links in my signature may be helpful.

If you don't want to cut and modify the frame, and if the only body cutting you want to do is in the fender pinch seams, this setup will work:

  • 3" backspaced wheels if on stock width axles, plus longer bolts for steering stops; or a wider than stock aftermarket axle with 3.5" backspaced wheels
  • 3.25" front and rear extended bumpstops, combined with flat flares and a 1" body lift

Here is my 2 dr on OME HD springs that gave me 3.125" lift, combined with a 1" body lift, 3.25" front and rear extended bumpstops, flat flares, 3" net backspaced wheels (including wheel spacers) and generous pinch seam trimming:







Here is my 2 dr on a 4.5" Trailmaster long arm, combined with the 1" body lift, 3.25" extended bumpstops and 1" body lift with enough stretch/push to keep the stock wheelbase:






 

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Here it is with Currie RockJock 60s, 3.5" backspaced wheels, 3.25" rear extended bumpstops, 4" front extended bumpstops (needed for high steer setup), the 1" body lift, and enough of a stretch to be at a 97.5" wheel base with the 4.5" lift:













 
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