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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks,
I am new here but not the forums or mods to most of my vehicles. So hello.

I am buying a 2017 JKU early next year and I am on a budget like most of us. My goal is to get a base 24C package, I don't care about power windows. I am ordering with connectivity, alpine, auto with tracklock diff. Hardtop and the led headlight/fogs (if they look cheesy I'll sell).

When I say base I mean base model. 3.21s and all.

3.5 Rock Krawler with 37's is the plan.

Here is what I need some input on. What would you do to make the D30 last with moderate trails and overall a capable rig for trails but after that load the family up and roll over for some ice cream. I don't plan on lockers and and full rock crawler action so what I have bellow is my plan. I would love some insight on what you've done and what you would do different or now at all. I apologize in advance if this is posted in the wrong game place. See cart below.

***So I don't have enough post yet to upload pictures of my cart. I'll do so once my post count allows.***

Thanks.


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Chromoly Shafts, Gusset the C's,Truss and 4.88 gears.....I wheeled my pretty hard for 6 years running 37's. Yes I broke stuff, but it sounds like you won't be wheeling like me. I ran sleeves and gussets on my 30, but wouldn't recommend that route any longer. Just don't jump the Jeep and everything should be fine!!
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Chromoly Shafts, Gusset the C's,Truss and 4.88 gears.....I wheeled my pretty hard for 6 years running 37's. Yes I broke stuff, but it sounds like you won't be wheeling like me. I ran sleeves and gussets on my 30, but wouldn't recommend that route any longer. Just don't jump the Jeep and everything should be fine!!
This is the kinda of response I have been waiting to hear. To clarify. You ran 37s with what mods to the axel? I don't plan on wheeling hard at all.

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I don't plan on wheeling hard at all.
Famous last words... :)

Hardening the existing hardware will get you by if you really don't abuse it. That said, there are different suspension requirements to run 37s vs 35s. With a brand new model, it may take a little while for the aftermarket to catch up and your options may be limited a bit initially.
 

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This is the kinda of response I have been waiting to hear. To clarify. You ran 37s with what mods to the axel? I don't plan on wheeling hard at all.

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I did sleeves, gussets and control arm skids. Forgot to tell you about the skids. However after see three broken tubes, I wouldn't waste the time or money with the sleeves. Hence the truss recommendation. Also as stated above the 3.21 are all bad!! You can't put a larger gear on the carrier..... Try to get 3.73 or 4.10, or add in to your plan to buy new carriers.
 

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I did sleeves, gussets and control arm skids. Forgot to tell you about the skids. However after see three broken tubes, I wouldn't waste the time or money with the sleeves. Hence the truss recommendation. Also as stated above the 3.21 are all bad!! You can't put a larger gear on the carrier..... Try to get 3.73 or 4.10, or add in to your plan to buy new carriers.
I'm a "n00b" when it comes to that kind of stuff. Are you telling me since I have 3.21 gears the only way to regear the diffs are to replace the whole thing?
 

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I'm a "n00b" when it comes to that kind of stuff. Are you telling me since I have 3.21 gears the only way to regear the diffs are to replace the whole thing?
Yep....but as far as I remember it's just the front carrier. Not that my Jeep came with 3.21's....Just all he Jeeps JasonMac has built.
 

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Yep....but as far as I remember it's just the front carrier. Not that my Jeep came with 3.21's....Just all he Jeeps JasonMac has built.



@HOGGSTATUS
is correct; the carrier break max for the D30 is 3.73.

\

You have taller 3.21 gears and you'll have to buy a new carrier assembly as well as the ring and pinion when you regear to shorter gearset cause shorter than 3.73 would be jumpin the break ; it would only be upgradable to 3.73 with the carrier you would have in a 3.21 gearing. this is why I think it is quite lame that FCA defaulted to 3.21s on non-Rubis (versus the 3.73s on '12s down to '08s)on these JKs newer than '11s that are nonrubicons actually , it is not a huge financial addition, prolly just an extra hour of labor you're gonna pay the install shop + the price of carrier. :jeep2:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am about to order the 17. I have some pride in ordering the last year of the jk however,,, I do wish I knew what the hell it's going to look like.

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You could also void the warranty by doing this anywhere but the dealer. Just get a Rubicon and don't look back.
I can't stand when people say this. Not like the Rubicon is $9300 more than a base model or anything. Even if someone ends up putting that much money into their sport, they might not be able to do it all at once, they might not have the credit to get approved on a 40k loan.
also personally I think you can throw 9k at a sport and make it better than a rubicon anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well boys, black Friday has been good so far. Took the advise of many and my own voice of reason and the PR44 with 5:13 and pro steer bj should be in soon. Couldn't pass up the deals. Also got the PSC rear bumper and Ace Engineering inner fenders. Should have a nice pile of parts when the Jeep arrives. I will check back soon.

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Discussion Starter #18
Also the brand spanking new D30 will be up taken out say 1 ready to sell if anyone knows anyone...

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so you ordered an axle and a bunch of parts for a JK you don't own yet, did i get that right?

Do you plan to get 5.13s for the rear axle as well, or do you plan to go the ProRock route for that as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Correct. Jeep should be here in January. I hate it too but Northridge black Friday deal on the PR44 was saving my around 600 bucks.

Ordered the Yukon 5:13 R/P with master set for the rear. I'll do shafts as needed. If I need a PR in the rear two things are happening. I'm wheeling where I shouldn't be wgeeling and it might be time for 60's and 40"s.

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