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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was sent here by one of the admins from wranglerforums.com.

I have a fully functioning and almost perfect 5.7 hemi swap on my 08 JK but I have one issue I can't figure out for the life of me. I'm getting a P0153 code, slow circuit bank 2 sensor 1.

Engine and trans are out of a WK.
Wiring harness and ECU are from Hotwire.
Cats are brand new.
O2 sensors are brand new NTK(supposedly OEM).

I had a couple friends who know how to weld fab up the exhaust for me. I've already been to an exhaust shop and had it checked for leaks and they couldn't find anything. I spoke with a friend who builds hotrods for a living and swapped out the O2 with a Denso sensor at his recommendation, 35 miles later code came back.

Any help would be appreciated, I have an inspection I need to pass in a few days.

Thanks.
 

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I was sent here by one of the admins from wranglerforums.com.

I have a fully functioning and almost perfect 5.7 hemi swap on my 08 JK but I have one issue I can't figure out for the life of me. I'm getting a P0153 code, slow circuit bank 2 sensor 1.

Engine and trans are out of a WK.
Wiring harness and ECU are from Hotwire.
Cats are brand new.
O2 sensors are brand new NTK(supposedly OEM).

I had a couple friends who know how to weld fab up the exhaust for me. I've already been to an exhaust shop and had it checked for leaks and they couldn't find anything. I spoke with a friend who builds hotrods for a living and swapped out the O2 with a Denso sensor at his recommendation, 35 miles later code came back.

Any help would be appreciated, I have an inspection I need to pass in a few days.

Thanks.

Edit- It's going to be easier if you say what you've ruled out.
 

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If you've already checked wiring for breaks etc. You may need to correct your O2 sensor transport delay tables. Your sensors are probably not in the same locations (i.e., they're not same distance from the engine) as the OEM tune has them. I matched my tables with a stock tune where the vehicle had the same engine and echaust headers that I'm running. You'll need HP Tuners to make those changes.

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
If you've already checked wiring for breaks etc. You may need to correct your O2 sensor transport delay tables. Your sensors are probably not in the same locations (i.e., they're not same distance from the engine) as the OEM tune has them. I matched my tables with a stock tune where the vehicle had the same engine and echaust headers that I'm running. You'll need HP Tuners to make those changes.

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I'll look into that, thank you.


Edit- It's going to be easier if you say what you've ruled out.
I pulled the wiring out the other evening and couldn't find anything wrong. Tightened the exhaust flange maybe a half turn on one of the bolts, replaced the EGR gaskets, and have tried 2 different O2 sensors.

The exhaust shop did note that I have a high flow cat and they don't use them because Mopar vehicles don't like them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What sensors are you using, for the JK or WJ? I'm not sure if it makes a difference but they do have different part numbers. I run the factory JK 3.8 sensors without an issue.
Hey sorry for the late reply. Time has flown by recently and I've been swamped with work, fixing my wife's truck and beating my head against a wall with this hemi.

The sensors are the specific ones that JSS said to get in their BOM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
So an update to where I'm at with everything...still have that blasted code.

•Sensors have been replaced, they're brand new.
•Replaced the passenger side exhaust manifold and gasket.
•Cats are still the same and brand new.

Something tells me I'm looking in the wrong place and he's why I say that. I'm in northwest Ohio and it's as flat as flat gets here...when cruising around 55-60 randomly the rpm will jump from 1500 up to around 1800 or so still there for a few seconds and then drop back down. Kind of like it's kicking out of gear or I'm pushing the gas down but I'm not. About 75% of the time I'll come to a stop and the rpm will drop to about 350 and then jump back up to 600. Acts like it's going to stall but doesn't. Other times I'll come to a stop and my rpms will hover around 400.

I may be entirely wrong but that sounds like intermittent EGR problems.
 

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Sounds like you've done your due diligence with sensors, looking for leaks, mechanical issues, etc. Things to consider (maybe you already have): did you use OEM sensors? Did you use OEM gaskets? Did you torque the manifolds, sensors etc. properly?

Another "gotcha" with these swaps is that the businesses selling the "kits" sometimes have a more common version. Thier big seller will probably have more niggling issues sorted out, maybe a better starting tune etc.

Short story - my swap is a 392 into an '08 JK, manual transmission - not the big-selling combination. There were relatively few things sorted out compared to the far more common 5.7 truck hemi w. Nag1 auto, into a later JK. So after my due diligence I still had some problems with the original camshaft, an exhaust gasket, and a leak on one manifold where I hammered it a little to clear the starter motor. Also, the PCM and operating system never ran the 392 in production vehicles (it CAN, but...), so I chose to get the tuning package and start sorting it out as well. In hindsight I can tell you for a fact that my shitbox never stood a chance of ever running close to right without me diving into the tuning part of the mess.

Depending on the model year of your WK parts, you may also have a powertrain and PCM that never ran together from the factory, especially if you have a newer JK. At a minimum, the custom exhaust is forcing a tune all by itself. The things you see going on with RPM - I could point to a dozen or more tables in your tune that might need adjustments.

You have two basic options. You can start tuning yourself, or you can find a pro that specializes in custom hemi swaps and let them work it over. Monetary cost is comparable either way. You'll probably solve more problems quicker going to a pro. If you don't mind the long game and more challenge than you bargained going into the swap, then you'll learn a ton and have probably a better running jeep doing the tune yourself.



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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Sensors, manifolds, gaskets are all OEM. I've learned my lesson in the past with Jeeps and how little they actually like aftermarket products. Everything was torqued to spec when installed. I spent the time looking every torque spec up and sequence.

The engine/transmission combo is a complete dropout from a WK.

Sounds like you sure had your fun sorting out the issues, especially with setup that had very little support initially.

Seems like my options are down to what they have always been, time vs money.

I do have a p0533 code but I wouldn't think in anyway they would be related. I just don't have ac in the jeep so I didn't hook it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This may be your problem. Motech wasn't the best for installation instructions, and Robbie has flat out been wrong and won't admit it..but from what I've read, JSS takes being wrong to another level. You need a tuner.
My ECU and harness are from Hotwire Auto, I didn't buy a JSS ECU. I only bought some components from JSS that I needed like bolt in motor mounts, transmission plates, that kind of stuff.
 

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My ECU and harness are from Hotwire Auto, I didn't buy a JSS ECU. I only bought some components from JSS that I needed like bolt in motor mounts, transmission plates, that kind of stuff.
What did Hotwire say about the tune? [Spoiler alert: that's a rhetorical question. I also bought my PCM through Hotwire, so I already know what they said, or should have said. Sorry for the bad news but tuning is in order.]

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What did Hotwire say about the tune? [Spoiler alert: that's a rhetorical question. I also bought my PCM through Hotwire, so I already know what they said, or should have said. Sorry for the bad news but tuning is in order.]

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So you already know they sent me the repair manual for the P0153 code 🤣? I'm hoping this weekend to back probe and check the voltages from the O2 to ECU...I'm kinda assuming you'll already know the outcome of that too? 🤣
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes, yes I already know :laughing:

Good luck - the kit suppliers only get us so far...
Hey, so I tested the voltage of the signal side and the return upstream circuit earlier. On the return upstream circuit voltage is 2.51, spec given per Chrysler is 2.5 volts. Signal circuit was 1.67, not within the given spec of 4.1 and 5.0 volts.

I did check the voltage for the drivers side and they were identical to the passenger side. I can build and wire a house all day long but a vehicle is a little different. Where do I go from here?
 

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Troubleshooting the O2 sensors / circuits was pretty far down my priority list. My junk was sorted out before going there. BUT, the fact that both sides are reading the same suggests to me that you don't have an electrical/electronic problem. Not very likely to have two simultaneous and identical bad specs...

The top of my list was filled with things that would have been entirely my fault, like checking for exhaust leaks, looking for intake gasket leaks, etc. I did buy a second set of O2 sensors a few months into tuning, because the fuel trims looked like they were oscillating too slowly. I even sent my PCM back to Hotwire Auto to get wiped and reloaded. Turns out I was simply trying to log too many parameters - the HP Tuners suite has a hard time monitoring more than a dozen or so things at once - not enough bandwidth.

I've learned to solve problems much more quickly by first asking, "OK what did I f--- up THIS time?!" :laughing:



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