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More to your point the cam profile accentuates it, no argument there.

I semi retract my thought though, I was thinking that borla is chambered and I read it's not. He's also cat-less whereas I have cats off the factory manifolds.
 

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Discussion Starter #162 (Edited)
More to your point the cam profile accentuates it, no argument there.

I semi retract my thought though, I was thinking that borla is chambered and I read it's not. He's also cat-less whereas I have cats off the factory manifolds.
The cam in the motor is what is called the "ASA" cam. It has relatively low lift for an aftermarket cam by LS motor standards but has a very low lobe separation which attributes to the choppiness of it at idle. The more I listen to it run in person the more I realize that the video isnt anywhere near close to capturing the real noise level. 3" true dual mandrel exhaust, x pipe, no cats, and as you pointed out those mufflers are not chambered and the body is only 12" long. The idle speed is between 900 and 1k on the gauge.

Anyone in the DFW area is welcome to come attest to the racket this thing puts out in person.
 

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Discussion Starter #163
New issue to work around, the engine has a 1/2" nipple for the brake booster hose. The brake booster is a 3/8" nipple. I know I can get an adapter but I would rather have one hose size and less pieces in the mix.

Is there a brake booster check valve that anyone knows of with a 1/2" nipple on it.

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Discussion Starter #164
I ordered a chevrolet brake booster check valve, it looks like in the pics that its gonna work and move the hose up on the booster to 1/2" to match the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #165
I had one of the fuel lines that I put together "weeping" fuel. It wasn't dripping but always has some fuel residue at the connection. The was at the fuel line to engine connection. Since I wanted to redo that fitting I decided to order a 10' section of heat shield hose and slip it over the fuel line all the way back to the filter. This will protect it from heat and abrasion better than just the bare hose. Highly suggest it for the few bucks that it cost.

 

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Discussion Starter #168
So plugging along I got the brake booster figured out. Yes I could have adapted it but I didnt want to do that unless I had to. So for around $15 this GM part # comes with 2 of these check valves that has the same size barb going into the brake booster as the stock check valve but has a larger barb that matches the ls3 side. Just went to the part store and got a $3 piece of hose and it's done.

 

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Discussion Starter #170
Must be getting close now.

I like the heat sleeve on the fuel line.
The holdups now are other projects that I have added on. The motor swap would have been done a while ago if I didn't decide to do other things while it was apart.
 

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In the handful of engine swap/rebuilds I've done I've learned one thing; don't do more than you set out. It's either going to cost you triple the money, or triple the time.

With my LS swap it was no-frills attached as I knew I'd get in too deep and slow the turn-around time way down and I couldn't do that on my daily driver.


My previous engine rebuild turned into a front suspension rebuild, which became a front half mustang-II suspension build, so I might as well 4 link the rear end, but oh the frame is rusty so I'll take the cab/bed off the truck and have the frame sand blasted, etc etc.... yah that started in 2007 and it's still mainly in pieces.
 
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In the handful of engine swap/rebuilds I've done I've learned one thing; don't do more than you set out. It's either going to cost you triple the money, or triple the time.

With my LS swap it was no-frills attached as I knew I'd get in too deep and slow the turn-around time way down and I couldn't do that on my daily driver.


My previous engine rebuild turned into a front suspension rebuild, which became a front half mustang-II suspension build, so I might as well 4 link the rear end, but oh the frame is rusty so I'll take the cab/bed off the truck and have the frame sand blasted, etc etc.... yah that started in 2007 and it's still mainly in pieces.
I'm glad I'm not alone. I ended up with a full tube chassis 72 Camaro that started out just needing new floor pans.
 

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I'm glad I'm not alone. I ended up with a full tube chassis 72 Camaro that started out just needing new floor pans.
I have a 289 in the garage from my 67 mustang that just needed a driver side floor pan fix. I'm not sure where the rest of it is at this point.

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Discussion Starter #174 (Edited)
Its been a while...... I have finally whiddled down my punch list of additional projects and got it sitting on all 4 of its own wheels again.

And I'm immediately in a bind.......... The fucking thing wont clear the garage door to get out......... I just got the tire carrier back from the painters last night so im hoping adding an additional 200lbs on the rear end will squat it the extra 1/4" I need to get it out.

Other than that, I got the rear shaft back in yesterday and decided for the first time to just see what it felt like in gear. Before I get to that I want to mention that some of my additional projects that I was doing were to add the big brake booster and master cylinder and also I added some huge (for a jeep) brakes. The pedal at idle is WAAAAAY up high and as firm as the turd that killed Elvis. When I pulled it into gear it caught me off guard with how much it wants to pull. The whole jeep even with the brakes applied firmly lifted up at least 1" and when in reverse it squatted the same it felt like. This has me sort of boggled as the tires aren't moving a RCH and all suspension components are tight.

I wasn't expecting it to want to pull so hard at idle with the looser converter. I can semi contribute this to the high idle speed of 950ish but really it sounds like thats exactly where it needs to be so adjusting that is not an option.

 

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Haha, yeah mine does that same lift and squat. It caught me off guard at first but now I hardly notice it. Mine idles at 550 rpms and is a stock motor. It really does test the brakes.

Good to see you so close, may have to make a taller garage door!
 

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Discussion Starter #177
Jeep looks fantastic.

If you give it a little gas, does it try to overpower the brakes?

Those brakes not even broken in yet aren't letting it go anywhere. I tried to see how far I could stall it up in the garage (genius idea) and it got sketchy. While it didn't go anywhere it loaded up so much and moved around to the point I let off before something bad happened. I've never been in a vehicle that moved that much without actually moving.
 

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Those brakes not even broken in yet aren't letting it go anywhere. I tried to see how far I could stall it up in the garage (genius idea) and it got sketchy. While it didn't go anywhere it loaded up so much and moved around to the point I let off before something bad happened. I've never been in a vehicle that moved that much without actually moving.
Ya, it's just loading the suspension. With the brakes not letting the tires move, the housing wants to rotate. With the brakes connected to the housings, I think it gets to move only as mush as bushing deflection allows it to.

What? You didn't want to go for a dragstrip start inside the garage? C'mon, I think you can get back on the brakes in time. Post a vid.
 

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Discussion Starter #180
I to get that load up when going into gear. It was worse with the 5.38s but like 4wheels said, we get use to it.

https://www.facebook.com/AmericanVintage4x4/ Here is a short video just leaving my buddies shop. I didn't even realize how much she wants to stand up at take off.
After going back and watching a bunch of videos outside of Robbies shop where they are beating on them I see that it does appear to be very common and they do want to raise up quite a bit. It just feels weird when your sitting in it.
 
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