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You guys really have a lot more room near the firewall with that ls3! My truck 6.0 intake manifold is really tight back there. I cant even see my heater core hoses...lol ;-)
Thats what I noticed and thought. Sure will make taken care of those hoses a lot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
You guys really have a lot more room near the firewall with that ls3! My truck 6.0 intake manifold is really tight back there. I cant even see my heater core hoses...lol ;-)
There is a ton of room back there and that one tight area where the passenger side head was close to the firewall has doubled its clearance since really dialing in where I want the tail stock of the trans to sit.


Otherwise it's inching along. I welded the plates for the trans mount to to the crossmember. Not necessary I know but felt right to do it after I had the where I want them. I got the new gas pedal installed. I finally figured out what I did wrong with the a/c and will touch on that later. Next is the exhaust shop right after Christmas and then it's moving along quickly. Should be able to start it sometime right around the first of the year.
 

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You will love the extra power for sure! I know a lot of people have said this, but this is really how these jk's should have come from the factory!
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Quick question, I am about to get the transfer case back up in the next couple of days and I was wondering what the issue would be with clocking it down one set of holes since the adapter allows it? This would help with front driveshaft angle quite a bit but without putting it up there I cant see what kind of problems it would create. Just looking for some real world advise.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
So, I got the transfer case back up onto the trans today and JESUS its close to the rear axle. I plan to adjust the rear axle a bit further back but not enough to where this stock driveshaft will even work for the time being. I even moved the frame mounts for the engine up 1/2" trying to buy a little bit of room back there.

Anyways, I can grab the transfer case and move the tail end of the trans side to side. If I pull it closer to the passenger side it creates more room for me in some places that I could use it. If I leave it closer to the center or drivers side it aligns the driveshaft yokes better to be straight on with each other. Is this alignment critical for the driveshaft? I would really like to have it pulled to the passenger side a tad but don't want to screw with anything that will cause me an issue.
 

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So, I got the transfer case back up onto the trans today and JESUS its close to the rear axle. I plan to adjust the rear axle a bit further back but not enough to where this stock driveshaft will even work for the time being. I even moved the frame mounts for the engine up 1/2" trying to buy a little bit of room back there.

Anyways, I can grab the transfer case and move the tail end of the trans side to side. If I pull it closer to the passenger side it creates more room for me in some places that I could use it. If I leave it closer to the center or drivers side it aligns the driveshaft yokes better to be straight on with each other. Is this alignment critical for the driveshaft? I would really like to have it pulled to the passenger side a tad but don't want to screw with anything that will cause me an issue.
I'm far from a drive shaft expert, so hopefully someone smarter will chime in.

I think you wouldn't want the t-case output and the pinion to not be parallel in plan view. And swinging the ass end of the t-case will defiantly make them not parallel to each other. The drive shaft is already speeding up and slowing down twice per revolution due to the side view misalignment (height difference). Adding a whole other misalignment on another plane with it's own speeding up and slowing down of the shaft, could bring on vibrations you'd be chasing forever.

Many vehicles run an offset between the t-case and pinion in plan view, but they are parallel to each other. Which would mean the speed up/slow down would cancel each other out.
 

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On 2 doors we run the engine slightly more forward and run the short TC adapter to get the longest driveshaft possible. Driveshaft angle can be tricky on a 2 door since the rear shaft is so short. If your 2 door has more than a 3" lift the pinion angle can get steep and cause a vibration under load. You want to wind the pinion up to give you a +\- 2% angle at ride height, do not run it straight on from a side view. 2 doors with a lot of lift may require you to relocate the spring perches, swaybar mounts..... so they are not angled backwards.

Run a CV shaft with yokes to get maximum driveshaft length. The R-zeppa's won't hold up to a 500 HP engine. The OE power-train is offset towards the passenger side. If running a stock rear axle or a replacement rear axle with the pumpkin lined up with the crossmember hoops the driveshaft should be a straight shot to the pinion when viewed from above AT RIDE HEIGHT. Your engine mounts should have the engine offset to line up with these hoops.

As the axle travels up and down it shifts left and right due to the arc of the track bar travel. A 4 link or Watts Z style set up does not have this side to side movement so it is not as critical. You do not want the axle to shift to the left or right too much or this can cause a vibration.

It's all a compromise, shoot for a pinion angle of +\- 2% at ride height. James over at Adams Driveline and myself spent a lot of time working vibrations out of 2 doors and it is more of an art than science. Sometimes a -2% pinion angle will vibrate but +2% will not.

Get the axle centered in the chassis at ride height. Get the driveline straight and perpendicular with the axle at ride height. The axle will move left and right with suspension travel but there is not a lot you can do about that, a good CV shaft will handle some angle. If you have adjustable arms wind the rear axle back to increase the WB as much as you can.

4 doors are much easier to work with because the driveshaft is longer and not subject to the steep angles of the 2 door.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
It's been going slow for me. I just got over being sick as a dog for the last week or so. I got a few things buttoned up tonight and am hopefully trailering it to the exhaust shop tomorrow and dropping it off for a mandrel bent 3" exhaust system.







 

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It's been going slow for me. I just got over being sick as a dog for the last week or so. I got a few things buttoned up tonight and am hopefully trailering it to the exhaust shop tomorrow and dropping it off for a mandrel bent 3" exhaust system.







Looks great!!! Can I ask what that exhaust job is going to run? Does it include CATs or not? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Damn. Those headers look like they fit perfect. Lots of room. Plus, they just look cool.
PLENTY of room, The photo is deceptive in a couple of areas, the steering shaft looks close and the passenger side shock tower looks close but neither get within 2" of the headders at any point. I trimmed back the passenger side upper control arm mount for clearance. It is tighter on that side since the motor is offset to that side. Not to mention the bell housing of the trans is fatter over there to make room for the starter.

Those ARP headder studs are a really nice piece of kit as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Looks great!!! Can I ask what that exhaust job is going to run? Does it include CATs or not? thanks

I am not running cats and I am only running the 2 upstream 02 sensors for now at least. Last night I decided that I am not taking it anywhere for exhaust. My buddy that was going to help me trailer it out had something come up and that was the last nail in the coffin that I needed to finally decide that I am just going to do it myself. I will be ordering today all of the bends that I know that I need to get me started doing the job. My other buddy that I constantly exchange favors with is a very experienced welder and has welded tons of stainless stuff for food grade application in restaurants etc... I have 2 different types of band saws here when I need to make cuts so me and him are going to give it our best shot at mocking it up and tacking it all together then drop it out and finish weld it up. Should be interesting and I will take plenty of pics.

I just CANNOT stand the thought of taking my vehicles anywhere that I have to leave them. Every time I do that I find something that either they did or caused that pisses me off. Id rather suffer through doing it myself and it never leave my garage where I have control.
 

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I just CANNOT stand the thought of taking my vehicles anywhere that I have to leave them. Every time I do that I find something that either they did or caused that pisses me off. Id rather suffer through doing it myself and it never leave my garage where I have control.
I know the feeling. I HATE taking my car to a dealer for warranty repair. I am so glad when the warranty is over and I can just fix it myself or use my mechanic who treats my stuff like I treat my stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Moving on, I couldn't get the Sanden 508 compressor no matter what I did or how I twisted the engine and mounts to clear enough even with the idea of shaving the bolt heads down on the back of the compressor. I tried 2 different 508 compressors, a 4514 and a 6669. Both were identical to each other besides the rear covers with the 4514 being a little shorter.

I picked up a Sanden 7176 and a dirty dingo mount and it fits with PLENTY of room now. Yes it is a mini compressor, and no I'm not worried about it not cooling enough. This thing spends most of the nice part of the year with no top or doors. I just need a/c for the rare time that I will use it or need the defrost to work.







 

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Boy, that compressor did give you some room. I am trying to decide by spring what to do in regards to compressors. I think mine is leaking, used one from the junk yard. The one that came with the motor also locked up. Not having much luck and need to stop with the used ones.
 

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Boy, that compressor did give you some room. I am trying to decide by spring what to do in regards to compressors. I think mine is leaking, used one from the junk yard. The one that came with the motor also locked up. Not having much luck and need to stop with the used ones.
While they work well there are compromises with the GM drive. The passenger low AC compressor mount has never been optimal IMO. You need to run the AC lines to the driver rear of the engine compartment, compressor to UCA bracket is close without a lift, compressor to frame clearance can be an issue..... We do run the GM drive and it works well, we fabricate PS and AC lines, rework the wiring, run a compact compressor, watch the PS pulley to PS gear clearance..... In the end the GM drive works fine but is more upfront work.

For 8 years we ran the JK accessory drive layout and it has a lot of advantages - better clearance, the use of stock PS lines, AC hoses, electrical connectors, use of off the shelf hydraulics systems..... The steel brackets worked great but could be a PITA to set up properly especially when we ran the crankshaft position sensor on the balancer. I have many JK's with over 100k miles on the steel brackets.

Our new billet brackets solve a lot of issues, better clearance, no adjustment just bolt on and they look cool. They will be offered in polished aluminum and anodized black with silver engraving. The Gen IV truck brackets are being installed now and the Gen IV LS3 brackets will be available shortly, the LS3 runs the same driver side AC bracket as the truck.

I don't know what accessory drive you are running but there are several good options for the passenger side low mount that are reliable.

 

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Moving on, I couldn't get the Sanden 508 compressor no matter what I did or how I twisted the engine and mounts to clear enough even with the idea of shaving the bolt heads down on the back of the compressor. I tried 2 different 508 compressors, a 4514 and a 6669. Both were identical to each other besides the rear covers with the 4514 being a little shorter.

I picked up a Sanden 7176 and a dirty dingo mount and it fits with PLENTY of room now. Yes it is a mini compressor, and no I'm not worried about it not cooling enough. This thing spends most of the nice part of the year with no top or doors. I just need a/c for the rare time that I will use it or need the defrost to work.
Wow, that bought you some clearance alright. What direction are the hoses clocked too?
 

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Discussion Starter #80 (Edited)
Wow, that bought you some clearance alright. What direction are the hoses clocked too?
There is an adapter that I picked up that mounts to the compressor in the area circled. Once it comes out of there the hoses have 90's on them. I haven't tried to fit them yet but it does not look like it's going to be an issue.



 
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