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Discussion Starter #41
Definitely not going to have any exhaust manifolds on when I stab it in there. I saw one guys thread where he fought it for hours and then pulled the manifolds and it slipped right in. He even had his battery box out and I do not.

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Yeah it will not go in with the manifolds on. I did not remove my battery box either.

Leaving the drivers side acc. mounts off just gave me more room to maneuver around the steering gearbox.

I see you removed the front crash bar, I did not and I could not get the motor down and in with the hoist chained front and back. I ended up using my atv lift and supporting the transmission and removed the rear hoist chain and then just rolled it back into position then lowered it all the way into place after installing the exhaust manifolds.

You probably already have a good idea as to how to go about getting it in. I am just throwing things out that I remember to maybe help out if possible.
 

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I left my stock ls3 manifolds on and it dropped right in place. I did remove my battery box though cause I installed a genesis dual battery setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Well she's hooked up, got the convertor filled with 1qt of fluid and got it all connected together. Tomorrow I will have an extra set of hands and it should be sitting in there. I do plan on having my jack at the ready with a couple of boards to raise the back end of the trans up so I can get the cross member on.

 

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Discussion Starter #45
Yeah it will not go in with the manifolds on. I did not remove my battery box either.

Leaving the drivers side acc. mounts off just gave me more room to maneuver around the steering gearbox.

I see you removed the front crash bar, I did not and I could not get the motor down and in with the hoist chained front and back. I ended up using my atv lift and supporting the transmission and removed the rear hoist chain and then just rolled it back into position then lowered it all the way into place after installing the exhaust manifolds.

You probably already have a good idea as to how to go about getting it in. I am just throwing things out that I remember to maybe help out if possible.
I couldn't get the stock motor out without cutting it out. A traditional style cherry picker just does not have the ability to reach in that far when you have something like that so close to the front end preventing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Well she's sitting in there on her own. It was way more labor intensive than I figured it would be. Considering I was sitting the engine in and out of the mounts by myself fairly effortlessly, once the trans is hanging off the back it changes everything. Fought it for a good 45 minutes and finally got it in. I will say that if I ever do it again I will pull the battery box. It would have made it much easier.

The only place I have tight clearance is on the rear passenger side. There is maybe 1/2" of clearance there.



 

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Yeah its tight for sure! Make sure you drill out that hole for the chrysler coolant temp sensor where that hex plug is. Unless your kit doesn't use that...
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Yeah its tight for sure! Make sure you drill out that hole for the chrysler coolant temp sensor where that hex plug is. Unless your kit doesn't use that...
99% sure it does not use it. Pretty sure it uses the GM sensor that comes on the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I had to end up pulling the battery box anyways to trim it to make room for the dipstick tube. Anybody reading this that's going to do the swap do yourself a huge favor and pull it up front it's literally a five-minute job to pull the battery box out and it's going to save you a ton of headaches not to mention you've got plenty of room to get the manifold on that side of the engine now.

 

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Discussion Starter #53
Looking good man.

Thanks for the pointer on the battery box.
Thanks man. I've moved onto the transfer case and swapping out the input shaft. That snap ring that holds the stock input shaft in is a real pita to get out.

 

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If you can find a cheap battery box from a 2012+ on eBay or somewhere, you may want to consider it. Because it changes the orientation of the battery from parallel to the firewall to perpendicular, you get a bit more room on the side of the motor. Either one works, but if you're concerned about the amount of space between the manifolds and the battery, you'll get a couple more inches. Also, while you've got it out, I would go ahead and cut away the old mounting area for the air box. You won't need it and it frees up space for your new air cleaner to breathe.

You can kind of see in this picture how I trimmed mine.



Look at the battery box in this picture and see if you think it would provide any additional space over what you have...

 
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If you can find a cheap battery box from a 2012+ on eBay or somewhere, you may want to consider it. Because it changes the orientation of the battery from parallel to the firewall to perpendicular, you get a bit more room on the side of the motor. Either one works, but if you're concerned about the amount of space between the manifolds and the battery, you'll get a couple more inches. Also, while you've got it out, I would go ahead and cut away the old mounting area for the air box. You won't need it and it frees up space for your new air cleaner to breathe.

You can kind of see in this picture how I trimmed mine.



Look at the battery box in this picture and see if you think it would provide any additional space over what you have...

I second the 12+ battery tray. 68079473AG we use these on the earlier Jeeps with LS3's when we want to run the corvette covers. I trim the tray down a bit and it exposed the cover nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Is the 12'+ tray actually any narrower? It appears that it does turn the battery long ways but it also appears that it is the same width as there is more room by the fender and by looking around the fuse box it appears to be the same in that area as well....???
 
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Is the 12'+ tray actually any narrower? It appears that it does turn the battery long ways but it also appears that it is the same width as there is more room by the fender and by looking around the fuse box it appears to be the same in that area as well....???
I'm pretty sure it is. We have a lot more room for engine covers when using the 12+ tray. The TIPM area and forward may not be much different.
 

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Is the 12'+ tray actually any narrower? It appears that it does turn the battery long ways but it also appears that it is the same width as there is more room by the fender and by looking around the fuse box it appears to be the same in that area as well....???
It angles in quite a bit from the top to the bottom of the battery. The top of it may be almost as wide as the early boxes, but the bottom of it hugs pretty close to the battery. I recall reading somewhere that JSS had to use a fabricated box in the '07 to '11 for Hemi installs, but the 2012+ box would clear it. The Hemi is dimensionally bigger than the LS motors, from what I understand.

I'm not sure if it's worth the money to do it. I was just suggesting while you have it out, you may want to check into it. Either way, I'm watching the build and I'm excited for you. I love my 430hp LS3... I'm sure yours will be a monster with 525!
 

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Discussion Starter #59
It angles in quite a bit from the top to the bottom of the battery. The top of it may be almost as wide as the early boxes, but the bottom of it hugs pretty close to the battery. I recall reading somewhere that JSS had to use a fabricated box in the '07 to '11 for Hemi installs, but the 2012+ box would clear it. The Hemi is dimensionally bigger than the LS motors, from what I understand.

I'm not sure if it's worth the money to do it. I was just suggesting while you have it out, you may want to check into it. Either way, I'm watching the build and I'm excited for you. I love my 430hp LS3... I'm sure yours will be a monster with 525!
It's not even $100 I'll probably do it just to try it out and freshen that up anyways. Mine is busted after it fought the engine.
 

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You guys really have a lot more room near the firewall with that ls3! My truck 6.0 intake manifold is really tight back there. I cant even see my heater core hoses...lol ;-)
 
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