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My understanding is that the hyd mounts are more for the vibrations of the DOD engines. So I wouldn't think there'd be much movement.

The counter sink option would be the cleanest way to go, but those mounts look pretty beefy and a couple one inch holes (or so) wouldn't harm them.

I remember Jon saying those bolt heads could be too close with the CTS-V drive.

I'd swap out the o-ring and seal on your trans. They're cheap and you have easy access right now. Might as well start out with 0 mileage bits.

I have written in my notes from talking with Edge, that he said to add one quart of fluid to the converter before installing it. Just remember that the level in the trans will go down after first start up when the converter fills.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I remember Jon saying those bolt heads could be too close with the CTS-V drive.
There is literally maybe .020" clearance there. The entire head of the bolt has to either be counter sunk or milled off. I am going to try and meet it in the middle. I also while out in the garage tonight saw another option that I will play with tomorrow and keep you posted on. The Hyd mounts seem to be super spongy. I dont know if this is good or not. It seems to me that they will definitely help out for slight misalignment issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Can do that or just a typical Allen head screw.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Your talking about countersinking for something like this correct?

Sooooo..... the bolts that hold that cover on are M8 x 1mm thread pitch and measure 48mm long. They are also freaking impossible to find in a countersunk screw like you linked. I could slap that cover on the mill and prep it in 15 minutes for those screws if I could source them. It's the thread pitch of 1mm that I can't find. I would get a shorter length of 45mm end to end if I could find it. 1.25 thread pitch is available everywhere but not the fine thread 1mm pitch.
 

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If you would have secured the engine hoist chain around the rear exhaust ports on the manifolds, as you jacked up the engine/tranny for removal it would have went to a naturally balanced angle that is perfect for removing the engine/tranny without removing the sway bar. My crash bar has been gone for a few years so I'm not sure if it would have been in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
If you would have secured the engine hoist chain around the rear exhaust ports on the manifolds, as you jacked up the engine/tranny for removal it would have went to a naturally balanced angle that is perfect for removing the engine/tranny without removing the sway bar. My crash bar has been gone for a few years so I'm not sure if it would have been in the way.
Even with the boom on the hoist extended to the last hole I still couldn't push the hoist in far enough to touch the throttle body. I cut it out clean so worse case I can easily weld it back in place if I have to. Not really a big deal to remove it either, was 30 seconds with a demo blade on the ole sawzall.
 

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Just noticed in one of your pics that your trans bracket is bolted to your crossmember. What I did is bolt it to the crossmember, made sure everything else lined up, and then welded the brackets to the crossmember and then removed the bolts. I didn't like how they stuck out below the bottom of the crossmember. Just an idea for ya!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Just noticed in one of your pics that your trans bracket is bolted to your crossmember. What I did is bolt it to the crossmember, made sure everything else lined up, and then welded the brackets to the crossmember and then removed the bolts. I didn't like how they stuck out below the bottom of the crossmember. Just an idea for ya!
Totes on the same page on that. I am just going to get it lined up and snug the bolts down. Then remove, weld, and remove bolts.
 

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Sooooo..... the bolts that hold that cover on are M8 x 1mm thread pitch and measure 48mm long. They are also freaking impossible to find in a countersunk screw like you linked. I could slap that cover on the mill and prep it in 15 minutes for those screws if I could source them. It's the thread pitch of 1mm that I can't find. I would get a shorter length of 45mm end to end if I could find it. 1.25 thread pitch is available everywhere but not the fine thread 1mm pitch.
Well shit. Only thing I found was Hard to Find Metric Fasteners and Metric Screws with No Minimums had 30mm long in that size, but was out of stock.

Is there enough meat to sink a non-counter sunk socket head in there?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Next issue is that I don't see any way that the frame will NOT have to be notched for the A/C line. The way the cover for the compressor is made you can't just clock it one set of holes over and if you did it would put the other hose in a bad spot.

The side of the frame bracket here will sit flush against the frame. It does not take a genius to see that there isn't enough room there.


Once again I was aware of this potential issue. It's not a horrible problem but a time consuming one for sure.
 

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Check out coldhose.com (no affiliation, just a previous customer) and they should be able to get you a street 90* that you should then be able to take to a straight hose fitting for a much tighter package and frame avoidance.
 
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Your trying to gauge fittment without the engine installed. Things will look different once it's in between the frame rails and bolted down.

The bolts on the back of the AC compressor usually barely touch or barely don't touch. I doubt you will need to clearance much.

The hose you have was physicaly installed on a jeep with the same drive setup before we sent it to you and it cleared the frame. Granted there is not much room and you have to clock the hose up a bit.

I think you should do a good bolted down test fit and see how things lay out.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Your trying to gauge fittment without the engine installed. Things will look different once it's in between the frame rails and bolted down.

The bolts on the back of the AC compressor usually barely touch or barely don't touch. I doubt you will need to clearance much.

The hose you have was physicaly installed on a jeep with the same drive setup before we sent it to you and it cleared the frame. Granted there is not much room and you have to clock the hose up a bit.

I think you should do a good bolted down test fit and see how things lay out.
Fair enough, will do that and report back.
 

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Just a suggestion from when I installed the engine. I left the exhaust manifolds off and removed the driver side acc. mounts. Reinstalled the exhaust manifolds before I completely dropped the motor onto the motor mounts and then the acc. mount after the motor was down and in.
 
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