I recently purchased one of Ripp's inter-cooled supercharger systems for my 2008 JKU Rubicon. After installing my lift, wheels, tires, bumpers I found my JK great for running around town, but longer trips to Colorado (Ouray / Silverton / Telluride) to be almost unbearable. I considered doing a set of gears, but I was then concerned that if I was not happy with the performance and decided to go with a supercharger in the future that the gearing would likely be wrong.
Thoughts of installing a supercharger had come and gone over the months. Until EJS rolled around the supercharger bug had mostly escaped my mind. I stopped by the various supercharger booths at the expo. As usual everyone was happy to discuss their products. Ultimately Ripp was offering a deal that I could not pass up.
Living at "high elevation" Ripp recommended their high elevation pulley. I agreed that this would be good as I love the trips to 10,000’ and higher. After receiving the pulley I compared the standard and high altitude. I measured the diameter of the high altitude at roughly a third of an inch smaller, adding additional speed to the blower for a given RPM.
In the time between picking up my kit and receiving the pulley, I read through the instructions a dozen or so times. Most things made sense, others did not. I called tech support on a couple of occasions to verify a few things and make sure I understood the process completely.
Finally a free weekend was upon me and I was ready to dig into the install. Friday evening I began with removing the grill, which involved loosening all 8 bolts securing my Rockhard full width bumper and winch as there was just enough interference to keep the grill from coming free.
While watching tv Friday night I proceeded to prep the new spark plugs. The new plugs included in the kit are one step cooler than stock and need to be gapped to .030" - .032". I found all six to be gapped from the factory at about .050".
First thing Saturday morning began with the removal of the stock airbox and install of the spark plugs.
The airbox includes the air temp sensor that must be removed and installed in the new piping. I found that the sensor would not come out easily, so I used my heat gun to warm the stock tube to make it more pliable for the sensor to come out of.
The instructions mention the possibility of the spark plug wires being stuck or even glued to the plugs. I found mine to come loose easily by simply gripping the boot as far down as possible and twisting them free prior to trying to pull them off.
After installing the spark plugs I moved on to the new routing of the heater hose. This is done by removing about 3 inches of the hose near the water pump and routing the hose above the valve cover rather than below.
In order to do this step you must drain approximately 1/2 gallon of coolant from the system. I should have read the JK service manual prior to attempting this as it would have made my life easier. I left the radiator cap on tight when I opened the drain valve causing nothing to happen. Apparently if you unscrew the drain far enough the “plug” will come completely loose. At this point I could get fluid out of the system by rocking the plug and allowing air to enter the system. My bumper made this very difficult as reaching the plug was a tight squeeze. I ultimately ended up removing the bumper completely in order to access the plug enough to reinstall it.
The service manual states to attach a hose to the drain cock, secure in a container, open the radiator cap, then open the drain cock. I believe that venting the system would make a world of difference!
Next up was the injector install. This portion of the install went relatively easy. After removing the EGR tube, vacuum hoses, MAP sensor wire, throttle body wire and bolts from the upper plenum, I was able to lift it out.
When I removed the lower EGR bolts the gasket fell out. The instructions mention the gasket, but I was thinking it was on the top end. Watch for this gasket when taking this apart.