Ripp supercharger install on 2008 JKUR - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 23 Old 05-03-2013, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Quacktacular's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Moab, UT
Age: 37
Posts: 130
Feedback: 0 reviews
Ripp supercharger install on 2008 JKUR

I recently purchased one of Ripp's inter-cooled supercharger systems for my 2008 JKU Rubicon. After installing my lift, wheels, tires, bumpers I found my JK great for running around town, but longer trips to Colorado (Ouray / Silverton / Telluride) to be almost unbearable. I considered doing a set of gears, but I was then concerned that if I was not happy with the performance and decided to go with a supercharger in the future that the gearing would likely be wrong.

Thoughts of installing a supercharger had come and gone over the months. Until EJS rolled around the supercharger bug had mostly escaped my mind. I stopped by the various supercharger booths at the expo. As usual everyone was happy to discuss their products. Ultimately Ripp was offering a deal that I could not pass up.

Living at "high elevation" Ripp recommended their high elevation pulley. I agreed that this would be good as I love the trips to 10,000’ and higher. After receiving the pulley I compared the standard and high altitude. I measured the diameter of the high altitude at roughly a third of an inch smaller, adding additional speed to the blower for a given RPM.

In the time between picking up my kit and receiving the pulley, I read through the instructions a dozen or so times. Most things made sense, others did not. I called tech support on a couple of occasions to verify a few things and make sure I understood the process completely.

Finally a free weekend was upon me and I was ready to dig into the install. Friday evening I began with removing the grill, which involved loosening all 8 bolts securing my Rockhard full width bumper and winch as there was just enough interference to keep the grill from coming free.



While watching tv Friday night I proceeded to prep the new spark plugs. The new plugs included in the kit are one step cooler than stock and need to be gapped to .030" - .032". I found all six to be gapped from the factory at about .050".

First thing Saturday morning began with the removal of the stock airbox and install of the spark plugs.



The airbox includes the air temp sensor that must be removed and installed in the new piping. I found that the sensor would not come out easily, so I used my heat gun to warm the stock tube to make it more pliable for the sensor to come out of.







The instructions mention the possibility of the spark plug wires being stuck or even glued to the plugs. I found mine to come loose easily by simply gripping the boot as far down as possible and twisting them free prior to trying to pull them off.

After installing the spark plugs I moved on to the new routing of the heater hose. This is done by removing about 3 inches of the hose near the water pump and routing the hose above the valve cover rather than below.







In order to do this step you must drain approximately 1/2 gallon of coolant from the system. I should have read the JK service manual prior to attempting this as it would have made my life easier. I left the radiator cap on tight when I opened the drain valve causing nothing to happen. Apparently if you unscrew the drain far enough the “plug” will come completely loose. At this point I could get fluid out of the system by rocking the plug and allowing air to enter the system. My bumper made this very difficult as reaching the plug was a tight squeeze. I ultimately ended up removing the bumper completely in order to access the plug enough to reinstall it.

The service manual states to attach a hose to the drain cock, secure in a container, open the radiator cap, then open the drain cock. I believe that venting the system would make a world of difference!

Next up was the injector install. This portion of the install went relatively easy. After removing the EGR tube, vacuum hoses, MAP sensor wire, throttle body wire and bolts from the upper plenum, I was able to lift it out.







When I removed the lower EGR bolts the gasket fell out. The instructions mention the gasket, but I was thinking it was on the top end. Watch for this gasket when taking this apart.


Jason - KB0WLI
2008 Black JKU Rubicon
RIPP Stage 2, RockHard Bumpers, RockKrawler 3.5" X-Factor & Fox 2.0's, Nitro Sleeved, Artec Trussed & Gusseted, Synergy DL Flip, Energy green Spyder Louvers, 37x12.50-17 Falken Wild Peaks wrapped around 17x9 XD Addics
Quacktacular is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 23 Old 05-03-2013, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Quacktacular's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Moab, UT
Age: 37
Posts: 130
Feedback: 0 reviews

After carefully cleaning the lower plenum I taped off the intake holes as suggested.



After removing the bolts and separating the wiring harness from the injectors and fuel rail I found the holes around the injectors to be filled with sand. I used my shop vac with a specially modified end (duct tape and a piece of unused heat shrink) to remove the sand that had accumulated around the base of the injectors. On a side note I later noticed that the Shop Vac brand makes a kit to reduce the hose down to about 1/2”, this might be a good investment prior to the install.

Since I did not make any attempt to purge fuel from the fuel rail gas was present in the rail when I began removing the injectors. I removed and replaced each of them one at a time skipping the oil on the o-ring using the gas as the lubricant. After all of the injectors were installed in the rail I used a small amount of oil on all of the o-rings on the head end of the injectors. All 6 injectors slipped into position with little force.



Re-assembly of the upper plenum was straight forward I verified that the o rings were in the correct location prior to setting the plenum in place. I then verified the brake booster hose was installed, bolted down the plenum, and loosely reattached the remaining vacuum hoses.

Installing the MAP sensor was easy using the supplied screws to secure it to the plenum.



Plugged in and secured.



The EGR tube was easily reinstalled making sure that the gasket on the lower end was installed correctly.



The next step was to cut the crank case vent tube and in stall the high pressure PCV valve. While I considered installing this valve in the line under the corrugated hose cover I opted to go with the location illustrated in the instructions.



The valve was a little difficult to get into the hose, but with a little work it went in ok. I secured it with the provided hose clamps simply for security. If the clamps had not been provided I am not sure that I would be concerned with the line coming apart.



The next steps involved installing the Supercharger unit and brackets. After removing the water pump pulley and belt as recommended in the instructions I located the mounting holes and removed the factory bolts.





As suggested in the instructions I installed the air filter housing on the blower prior to setting the unit into place.



With the primary bracket, blower and filter housing set in place I installed the first 3 bolts.



I added the support bracket that uses the alternator bolt and was getting ready to install the rear support bracket when I noticed that the belt had gotten wedged between the power steering pulley and the supercharger bracket. This ultimately required that all bolts be loosened to free the belt.

MAKE SURE THE BELT IS ROUTED PRIOR TO TIGHENING BOLTS!





All bolts were torqued to 35 ft-lbs for 8mm and 45 ft-lbs for 10mm. I used blue locktite on the bolts for a little added security.

After the supercharger and supporting brackets were installed I reinstalled the water pump pulley and routed the new belt as shown in the instructions.


Jason - KB0WLI
2008 Black JKU Rubicon
RIPP Stage 2, RockHard Bumpers, RockKrawler 3.5" X-Factor & Fox 2.0's, Nitro Sleeved, Artec Trussed & Gusseted, Synergy DL Flip, Energy green Spyder Louvers, 37x12.50-17 Falken Wild Peaks wrapped around 17x9 XD Addics
Quacktacular is offline  
post #3 of 23 Old 05-03-2013, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Quacktacular's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Moab, UT
Age: 37
Posts: 130
Feedback: 0 reviews

The next step was to install the intercooler and tubing. As the tubing routes from the engine compartment to the front of the radiator and back the radiator support requires some modification. The instructions call for the plastic panel to be removed and the plastic support to be trimmed.



A template is included for what part needs additional clearance. Using my dremel I cut away the plastic. This produced good lines that needed just a little work with a razor knife to clean up.









Mounting the intercooler is straightforward as the unit sits on the lower radiator support and 2 brackets hold the top to the upper support. I found I could use one of the factory holes in the support, but had to drill the other for the brackets.



With the intercooler mounted up it was time to install the piping. Starting at the supercharger I installed the tubing, sleeves and clamps.

I attached the blow off valve (BOV) to the third pipe and installed the intake air temp sensor in the 4th pipe prior to installing the pipes in the system. I figured it would be easier to install these with the pipe and valve / sensor in hand rather than fight with it in the engine compartment.



Once all the pieces were installed, there were a few clearance issues. Taking my time I was able to tweak the various pieces into place and clear up any interference. Once everything was lined up I tightened all clamps.

The final steps for the mechanical side of the install included routing the vacuum line for the BOV, attaching the air filter and breather hose, and installing the breather valve in the supercharger unit. I choose to route the vacuum line a little differently than suggested in the instructions. I zip tied the line to the crank case breather hose and then to the alternator power wire. This routing kept the line clear of the belt and heat of the upper radiator hose.



While installing the supercharger breather valve I also checked the oil level in the unit.

At this point I called it a day, leaving the tuning for the following day.


Jason - KB0WLI
2008 Black JKU Rubicon
RIPP Stage 2, RockHard Bumpers, RockKrawler 3.5" X-Factor & Fox 2.0's, Nitro Sleeved, Artec Trussed & Gusseted, Synergy DL Flip, Energy green Spyder Louvers, 37x12.50-17 Falken Wild Peaks wrapped around 17x9 XD Addics

Last edited by Quacktacular; 05-03-2013 at 10:12 PM.
Quacktacular is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 23 Old 05-03-2013, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Quacktacular's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Moab, UT
Age: 37
Posts: 130
Feedback: 0 reviews

First thing the Sunday I double checked all connections, bolts, oil levels and hose clamps. After reattaching the battery cable I moved into drivers seat for the tuning aspect of the install.

Upon plugging in and booting the inTune tuner, it immediately told me that a calibration update was necessary. I tried a couple of times to bypass this, but it wasn’t going to happen. So I took the tuner and necessary cables to the computer for the update. As my house is completely void of a true Windows PC I feared that updating would require a trip to my office. After booting Windows 7 in parallels on my Mac I found that the inTune device was recognized by Windows and the download started. Win for not ending needing to take the trip to the office!

Returning to the Jeep I plugged in the tuner and proceeded with the calibration update. When the install reached 99% I was prompted to turn the key off, click the check, turn the key on, click the check... ERROR!

The tuner rebooted and notified that it was in recovery mode. After several more attempts to write the calibration update I returned to the computer to try some more updates. After a total for 8 - 10 failed attempts to install the calibration update, along with Sunday calls to Ripp and Diablo Sport (knowing full well no one would answer) I gave up on the tuning for the day.

Setting aside the tuning I concentrated on finishing up items like replacing the grill, installing the bumper and reconnecting winch power leads. As I tried to install the grill I noticed that there was a good amount of interference with the intercooler. After several sessions with my dremel I was able to trim the grill down to the point that it would fit again.

Later in the day I did some research about the error that I was receiving from the tuner. Based on findings from Diablosport’s forum I gathered that I needed to call tech support to have the tuner reset. First thing Monday morning I gave Diablo a call and waited on hold for roughly 25 minutes. Once on the phone the tech helped me reset the tuner and clear the update log. Both steps required providing the tech with the 25 character key which is then used to provide a 16 character password that was entered into the tuner to proceed with the reset.

Once the tuner was reset the calibration update was complete, apparently the failure occurs after the update is completely written to the vehicle, but the at the point of the key cycle.

With the tuner reset the install of the Supercharger tune was installed without error.

Upon first start everything was in order. As suggested in the instructions I ran the Jeep for about a minute to verify things were ok.

I did notice that the supercharger sounded strange so I gave Chris at Ripp tech support a call. As soon as I mentioned it was a little loud he responded with “Does it sound like there is a marble rattling around in it?” I replied, “Yeah, that is a good description of it.” I was told that it was perfectly normal and would quiet down within the first 500 - 1000 miles.

I was also told to take it easy on the install for about the first 500 miles. Chris said some guys do the install and immediately start beating on it. On their recommendation I decided to take it fairly easy on it.

My first few drives were my short (2 mile) commute to work and back. I checked for leaks after the first couple trips and all looked well. After a couple of days of short commutes I rechecked oil levels, bolt torques hoses and clamps. The intake clamps had come slightly loose, so I tightened them up again.

With the install complete on Monday and a few days to check things out I decided to take the Jeep on a little road trip the following Thursday to visit family about 120 miles away. The Jeep ran great on the highway only needing to down shift form 6th to 5th a couple of times while holding 65 to 75 on the interstate.

My initial thoughts after the first few drives were a little skeptical, as I didn’t feel like the power was all that impressive. After the 120 miles on the interstate and learning how to drive the new power I am completely happy with the install. As of this write up I am approaching the 500 mile mark and intend to change the oil in the supercharger in the coming week. Once the 500+ miles are on the clock and the oil is changed I will get some experience with really getting into the power of the supercharger.

Jason - KB0WLI
2008 Black JKU Rubicon
RIPP Stage 2, RockHard Bumpers, RockKrawler 3.5" X-Factor & Fox 2.0's, Nitro Sleeved, Artec Trussed & Gusseted, Synergy DL Flip, Energy green Spyder Louvers, 37x12.50-17 Falken Wild Peaks wrapped around 17x9 XD Addics
Quacktacular is offline  
post #5 of 23 Old 05-03-2013, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Quacktacular's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Moab, UT
Age: 37
Posts: 130
Feedback: 0 reviews
Update

Around the 500 mile mark I had the chance to get the Jeep out and run some trails. We ran Rose Garden Hill, 3D, and Mashed Potatoes. The Jeep ran great, getting to and from the trails is much easier and the added power helped out a lot on the low speed steep climbs.

Jason - KB0WLI
2008 Black JKU Rubicon
RIPP Stage 2, RockHard Bumpers, RockKrawler 3.5" X-Factor & Fox 2.0's, Nitro Sleeved, Artec Trussed & Gusseted, Synergy DL Flip, Energy green Spyder Louvers, 37x12.50-17 Falken Wild Peaks wrapped around 17x9 XD Addics
Quacktacular is offline  
post #6 of 23 Old 05-03-2013, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Quacktacular's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Moab, UT
Age: 37
Posts: 130
Feedback: 0 reviews
More updates

Placeholder for later updates...

Jason - KB0WLI
2008 Black JKU Rubicon
RIPP Stage 2, RockHard Bumpers, RockKrawler 3.5" X-Factor & Fox 2.0's, Nitro Sleeved, Artec Trussed & Gusseted, Synergy DL Flip, Energy green Spyder Louvers, 37x12.50-17 Falken Wild Peaks wrapped around 17x9 XD Addics
Quacktacular is offline  
post #7 of 23 Old 05-04-2013, 04:17 AM
Rock God
 
block's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: maryland
Posts: 1,612
Feedback: 4 reviews

real nice write up ...great job ! good help for anyone interested in doing their own install. i love my RIPP kit.. glad to hear yours is also working out for you..
block is offline  
post #8 of 23 Old 05-04-2013, 08:44 AM
Granite Guru
 
JK Timmay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 495
Garage
Feedback: 3 reviews

Great write up!

[
JK Timmay is offline  
post #9 of 23 Old 05-04-2013, 09:25 AM
JKO Addict!
 
TCdawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Woodstock, Ga
Age: 49
Posts: 3,717
Garage
Feedback: 2 reviews

Nice write up.

Question for you. I currently run an aftermarket transmission cooler that sits on the driver side of the radiator. It is directly ON the radiator, there is no gap between the radiator and the trans cooler. It is held in with push pin clips.

How much room is between the intercooler and the radiator in this pic?



Thanks!

TC
Crawling For Reid March 23, 2019 Adventure OffRoad Park


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TCdawg is offline  
post #10 of 23 Old 05-04-2013, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Quacktacular's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Moab, UT
Age: 37
Posts: 130
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
Nice write up.

Question for you. I currently run an aftermarket transmission cooler that sits on the driver side of the radiator. It is directly ON the radiator, there is no gap between the radiator and the trans cooler. It is held in with push pin clips.

How much room is between the intercooler and the radiator in this pic?
The bottom left side of the cooler is about 1/4" from the condenser. The right side is further than that. The cooler fits vertically so the gap at the top is significantly greater.

I will post up some actual measurements tomorrow.

Jason - KB0WLI
2008 Black JKU Rubicon
RIPP Stage 2, RockHard Bumpers, RockKrawler 3.5" X-Factor & Fox 2.0's, Nitro Sleeved, Artec Trussed & Gusseted, Synergy DL Flip, Energy green Spyder Louvers, 37x12.50-17 Falken Wild Peaks wrapped around 17x9 XD Addics
Quacktacular is offline  
post #11 of 23 Old 05-04-2013, 10:32 PM
Granite Guru
 
greenenvey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: north Dakota
Age: 44
Posts: 374
Feedback: 0 reviews

Thats awsome, i just got my ripp sc installed last week.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

2010 rubicon. 3.5 rk lift. 37,s. 6.2 Ls3.
greenenvey is offline  
post #12 of 23 Old 05-05-2013, 07:26 PM
Granite Guru
 
T-Giv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Crawlorado
Age: 30
Posts: 293
Feedback: 0 reviews

Man I would love to score a RIPP kit for my JK. Keeping an eye on Craigslist!

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.......you can only pick two.
T-Giv is offline  
post #13 of 23 Old 05-06-2013, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Quacktacular's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Moab, UT
Age: 37
Posts: 130
Feedback: 0 reviews

TCDawg, looking at the intercooler as pictured, the upper corners are about 1.5" from the condenser, the lower right is about .25" and the lower left is about .5".

I talked to Ripp after I noticed some other install pics showed that the cooler had cleared the grill without notching. Even after I notched the grill I have a little bit of interference. I think at some point I will adjust the top brackets and tilt the cooler back some rather than hacking at the grill more.

Jason - KB0WLI
2008 Black JKU Rubicon
RIPP Stage 2, RockHard Bumpers, RockKrawler 3.5" X-Factor & Fox 2.0's, Nitro Sleeved, Artec Trussed & Gusseted, Synergy DL Flip, Energy green Spyder Louvers, 37x12.50-17 Falken Wild Peaks wrapped around 17x9 XD Addics
Quacktacular is offline  
post #14 of 23 Old 05-06-2013, 08:03 PM
JKO Addict!
 
TCdawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Woodstock, Ga
Age: 49
Posts: 3,717
Garage
Feedback: 2 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quacktacular View Post
TCDawg, looking at the intercooler as pictured, the upper corners are about 1.5" from the condenser, the lower right is about .25" and the lower left is about .5".

I talked to Ripp after I noticed some other install pics showed that the cooler had cleared the grill without notching. Even after I notched the grill I have a little bit of interference. I think at some point I will adjust the top brackets and tilt the cooler back some rather than hacking at the grill more.
Thank you! Good information.

TC
Crawling For Reid March 23, 2019 Adventure OffRoad Park


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TCdawg is offline  
post #15 of 23 Old 12-07-2014, 10:51 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sioux City, IA
Age: 35
Posts: 388
Feedback: 10 reviews

Good write up Any update on how its been for you?
Stangbuster is offline  
post #16 of 23 Old 12-08-2014, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Quacktacular's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Moab, UT
Age: 37
Posts: 130
Feedback: 0 reviews

Overall the SC has really helped make the Jeep drivable. I have about 10K miles on the install. No huge issues to speak of, other than the lame excuse for an air filter that I received with my kit.

When I took the air cleaner off to clean it I noticed that the rubber base was loose at the bottom of the filter, upon further inspection I found that a lot of dust had made it all the way up to the throttle body. Not too happy about this, but it is partially my fault for not giving it a better inspection earlier.

My solution was to put on an Amsoil Ea Filter and pre-filter. I have used their factory replacement style of filters on other vehicles in the past with great success. They are not a washable gauze filter, and do not use oil to help capture the dirt. Only modification I made was drilling a hole in the rubber to mount the barb for the crankcase vent.

I have made a few other minor mods. One being that I installed a catch can in the crankcase vent line to reduce the amount of oil vapor that will eventually coat the entire intake system. This was done with a simple aluminum water bottle and a couple of fittings.

The other mod that I have installed and not yet fully tested is a BOV bypass. The original thought was to be able to disable the BOV to reduce cycling when running in conditions where the boost causes acceleration, but out of boost won't hold speed. Additionally I thought it might reduce surging while on cruise.

I will be testing this a little more now that I have recently installed a new throttle body.

Jason - KB0WLI
2008 Black JKU Rubicon
RIPP Stage 2, RockHard Bumpers, RockKrawler 3.5" X-Factor & Fox 2.0's, Nitro Sleeved, Artec Trussed & Gusseted, Synergy DL Flip, Energy green Spyder Louvers, 37x12.50-17 Falken Wild Peaks wrapped around 17x9 XD Addics
Quacktacular is offline  
post #17 of 23 Old 12-09-2014, 04:52 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Age: 36
Posts: 7
Feedback: 0 reviews

This was an excellent write up. As per your last post, we are currently working on a different air filter for our systems, as well as a catch can. If you have any questions or concerns please don't hesitate to ask or call us up. Also, have you changed the oil on the supercharger unit since install? Should be changed after the first 500 break in miles, then again every 6-7000 miles.

-A
post #18 of 23 Old 12-09-2014, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Quacktacular's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Moab, UT
Age: 37
Posts: 130
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
This was an excellent write up. As per your last post, we are currently working on a different air filter for our systems, as well as a catch can. If you have any questions or concerns please don't hesitate to ask or call us up. Also, have you changed the oil on the supercharger unit since install? Should be changed after the first 500 break in miles, then again every 6-7000 miles.

-A
Thanks Adam, I have changed the oil twice. I did the first at the 1,125 miles and the last at 7,020 miles. Guess I am closer to 8,500 miles in total.

The Amsoil filters are really nice and can be cleaned for longer life with shop air.

Jason - KB0WLI
2008 Black JKU Rubicon
RIPP Stage 2, RockHard Bumpers, RockKrawler 3.5" X-Factor & Fox 2.0's, Nitro Sleeved, Artec Trussed & Gusseted, Synergy DL Flip, Energy green Spyder Louvers, 37x12.50-17 Falken Wild Peaks wrapped around 17x9 XD Addics
Quacktacular is offline  
post #19 of 23 Old 12-09-2014, 09:18 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sioux City, IA
Age: 35
Posts: 388
Feedback: 10 reviews

Quack-
Thanks for the update. Always been of the mindset to run catch cans with FI motors. Great idea with the BOV bypass I'm keeping an eye on this thread.

Adam-
What are time frames for the new filter and catch can?
Thanks
Stangbuster is offline  
post #20 of 23 Old 12-09-2014, 10:25 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Age: 36
Posts: 7
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quacktacular View Post
Thanks Adam, I have changed the oil twice. I did the first at the 1,125 miles and the last at 7,020 miles. Guess I am closer to 8,500 miles in total.

The Amsoil filters are really nice and can be cleaned for longer life with shop air.
Amsoil makes a gret product, we are working on something that will be an all around upgrade.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stangbuster View Post
Quack-
Thanks for the update. Always been of the mindset to run catch cans with FI motors. Great idea with the BOV bypass I'm keeping an eye on this thread.

Adam-
What are time frames for the new filter and catch can?
Thanks
Im running R&D on my truck with both, in my guestimation, sometime first quarter 2015
post #21 of 23 Old 04-18-2019, 01:23 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 4
Feedback: 0 reviews

hopefully this thread ain't dead

Ive been having problems with my ripp, 2011 jk,
the intercooler has chewed through two condensers, I cant seem to find clearance, Im up against the grill on the top and its still touching the condenser on one side. Im trying to find a solution before I pay for another condenser, any help appreciated. only thing RIPP could tell me was that it shouldnt be happening and to try bending the brackets, which I havent tried yet since Im unsure where the extra room is going to come from,

My one thought was to take a dremel to the grill, but alternatively does anyone know of a grill that has extra room in it perhaps?
dips is offline  
post #22 of 23 Old 04-18-2019, 02:05 PM
JKO Addict!
 
ALASHA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 8,178
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by dips View Post
hopefully this thread ain't dead

Ive been having problems with my ripp, 2011 jk,
the intercooler has chewed through two condensers, I cant seem to find clearance, Im up against the grill on the top and its still touching the condenser on one side. Im trying to find a solution before I pay for another condenser, any help appreciated. only thing RIPP could tell me was that it shouldnt be happening and to try bending the brackets, which I havent tried yet since Im unsure where the extra room is going to come from,

My one thought was to take a dremel to the grill, but alternatively does anyone know of a grill that has extra room in it perhaps?
The grille is slightly slopped. Have you tried pushing the intercooler down?


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ALASHA is offline  
post #23 of 23 Old 04-19-2019, 04:11 AM
Granite Guru
 
KnightJK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southwest FL
Posts: 141
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by dips View Post
hopefully this thread ain't dead

Ive been having problems with my ripp, 2011 jk,
the intercooler has chewed through two condensers, I cant seem to find clearance, Im up against the grill on the top and its still touching the condenser on one side. Im trying to find a solution before I pay for another condenser, any help appreciated. only thing RIPP could tell me was that it shouldnt be happening and to try bending the brackets, which I havent tried yet since Im unsure where the extra room is going to come from,

My one thought was to take a dremel to the grill, but alternatively does anyone know of a grill that has extra room in it perhaps?
Cut Cut Cut! It's in the instructions to cut away at your rad support, keep cutting until you have clearance and nothing is touching, I don't think I had to dremel the back side of the grill but it does touch it ever so slightly. Maybe cut more out of your rad supports and push the IC further forward? Does your IC have the little tabs on the bottom and adjustable L brackets up top?

Chase Weston
KnightJK is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome