planman's 2dr Rubi JK gets RIPP'd - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 01-21-2013, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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planman's 2dr Rubi JK gets RIPP'd

After wheeling with Co4Lo in Colorado during summer of '11 and in Moab during EJS '12, and witnessing how well his stretched 2 dr on 42s--then 44s--did with his RIPP supercharger, I decided that it was time for another upgrade for my 2 dr Rubi JK.

My 6 speed JK did great offroad--even with 40s--due to 5.38 gears in my Currie RJ 60s and 4:1 Rubi transfer case. The 3.8L at higher rpms due to the lower gearing seemed okay, but I still felt a lack of power on the highway and in the sand or deep snow. My Superchips Flashpaq and Sprintbooster together made a big difference, but not as much as I wanted.

So, I bought myself a RIPP V3 GEN-2 Supercharger with Intercooler.

However, when my wife found out, she told me she wanted one for her 4 dr Rubi automatic on 37s with 5.38s and 37s. So, I bought one for her jeep also and installed hers first. I can tell you that it made a huge difference with her rig. That 42RLE automatic used to be almost boring to drive, and now, it is quite fun.

Although there is an excellent install video on YouTube (youtube.com/watch?v=Pqs9Cxskni8) and the instructions from RIPP that come with the supercharger are absolutely excellent, I thought I'd go ahead and document my install and comment on a few things.

As it sits now, my 2 dr Rubi has a 4.5" Trailmaster Stealth long arm with Fox adjustable reservoir shocks, stretched to about a 98" wheelbase, with Currie RJ 60s (5.38s and ARBs), on ATX Slab beadlocks wrapped in 40" Xterrains. Here is my JK on the Crack at EJS '12 (pic taken by Tim Kemp's wife):




Please do not use my write-up as a substitute for RIPP's install instructions. The purpose of this thread is to give a few observations and show that the install is a relatively simple weekend project.

Being that we live at an elevation of 3500 ft above sea level and wheel at elevations up to 10,000 ft, I obtained a smaller, "high altitude" pulley from RIPP. Here is a pic of what comes in the kit--including the "high altitude" pulley and smaller belt in the middle bottom of the picture. (This was my wife's kit laid out before her install.)




Now, on my JK I'm running a 1" body lift to reduce the length of extended bumpstops needed and increase overall suspension travel. I have a Warn Powerplant winch, PSC hydro assist steering, and a steering cooler that I would need to navigate. In the end, the install on my JK was slightly easier due to the 1" body lift--even though I had to relocate the cooler.





Remove the front clip (there is my steering cooler):




Disconnect the positive battery cable.




This is my PSC steering fluid reservoir that I needed to temporarily move for the install.




Remove the stock airbox. Also, carefully remove the stock air temp sensor from the intake hose that will be reinstalled later. (Notice how dirty my engine compartment is and that I used an air blow gun to clean/blow off debris during the install in order to keep dirt out of my engine.)




Remove the stock spark plugs (long extensions help here):





Replace them with the newly supplied spark plugs after adjusting to the suggested gap spec (apply some anti-seize):




A wobbly or u-joint extension piece like the black one in this picture really helps:




Remove or pull back the inner fender liner on the front passenger side and switch out the spark plugs (the body lift gave me a little extra room here):



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Last edited by planman; 01-24-2013 at 10:21 AM.
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post #2 of 20 Old 01-21-2013, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Drain about 1/2 gallon coolant out of your radiator. The plug is on the lower left hand side and also has a nipple at the bottom to which you can attach a small tube/hose to make less of a mess (I should have just removed my winch by this point to make the job easier).




Cut about 3" off the heater hose. The reattach it by routing it around the oil cap.





Unplug the stock MAP sensor (sliding back the red locking clip, and then rotating the sensor counter clockwise until you can pull it out of the plenum). The MAP sensor gets replaced.




After unplugging the main breather hoses to the intake plenum, remove the EGR tube. In addition to the 2 small bolts at the top of the plenum, there is a small bracket with a stud that needs to be removed. There are a couple black tubes that need to be removed from the bracket in order to remove the stud.





This is the stud and small bracket removed:




This is where the EGR tub attaches at the bottom. Remove the 2 mall bolts (nice to have the 1" body lift and the fender liner removed for this one).




EGR tube removed:



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Last edited by planman; 01-24-2013 at 08:58 AM.
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post #3 of 20 Old 01-21-2013, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Unplug the TPS sensor and push it aside (so you don't later pinch it between plenum/intake assembly and other components upon reassembly):




Unplug the brake booster hose from the back of the plenum:




Unscrew the eight 10 mm bolts holding the upper intake plenum to the lower casting and remove the plenum:






Tape off the lower plenum to avoid contamination or lost bolts. Undo the locking clips on the injectors (using a small flat blade screwdriver with a gentle touch helps).





Remove the four 10 mm bolts attaching the fuel rail.



Remove the fuel rail and the stock injectors (there are small clips that hold them to the fuel rail and a gentle action with a flat blade screw driver helps to pry the clips loose without projectile flipping them across the garage when the clips detach). Also, the stock injectors will likely leave a small blue seal in the fuel rail that will need to be removed.




Apply a small amount of grease to the rubber seals on the new injectors to facilitate installation.



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Last edited by planman; 01-24-2013 at 09:12 AM.
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post #4 of 20 Old 01-21-2013, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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After installing the new injectors, reinstall the locking clips.




Reinstall the fuel rail, bolts, plugs, locking clips, etc.




Reinstall the plenum (take special care to make sure the TPS sensor is out of the way). Then, resintall the brake booster hose.




Install your new MAP sensor (mine somehow got damaged moving the kit around my garage or in the packaging, and RIPP is sending me a replacement).





Reconnect your TPS and reinstall the EGR tube (I also reattached my PSC power steering reservoir at this point).



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Last edited by planman; 01-24-2013 at 09:19 AM.
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post #5 of 20 Old 01-21-2013, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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At this point, I was tired of bending over the engine while standing in the gap with the right foot on the trackbar and the left foot on the passenger upper control arm. So, I decided to deal with the steering cooler that would need to be relocated. Although I should have earlier, at this point I removed the winch and set it aside.




I trimmed the plastic piece that runs under the radiator, re-routed the hoses, and re-installed the cooler underneath the crossmember. With the 1" body lift, there is plenty of clearance between the metal hose/tube that runs under the crossmember and the relocated cooler. Still, I wrapped a little black duct tape around the hose/tube to protect it and to be able to check for any evidence of contact. If I ever remove the 1" body lift, I will need to relocate that hose/tube to allow more clearance.




Lower back still a little unhappy from bending over the engine for so long, I decided to skip ahead a few steps and trim the plastic to make clearance for the intercooler tubes. I removed the rubber flaps with a couple flat head screwdrivers and used RIPP's supplied template to mark and then use a dremel tool to trim the plastic.





Then, after a break for dinner, I went back to the suggested order and installed the new one-way PCV valve (I removed about 1/2" of the tube to account for the addition of the PCV valve).




This is my new Vortech supercharger unit and the difference between the regular and the "high altitude" pulleys:






Use the tensioner to be able to remove the 13 mm bolts that attach the water pump pulley (see the gap in the engine bay where I could stand on the trackbar and the passenger side upper control arm).




My wife's 08 did not have the plug attached to this hole under the valve cover. Mine did, so I had to remove the plug.




Using the supplied instructions remove the identified factory bolts, install the supercharger with a combination of supplied and factory bolts while being careful not to set it on the sensor at the upper passenger side of the radiator. (Hint: Save yourself some headache by detaching that sensor and setting it aside, and install the intake piece to the supercharger before you install the supercharger unit.)



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Last edited by planman; 01-24-2013 at 09:39 AM.
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post #6 of 20 Old 01-21-2013, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Install the front support bracket.





Install the rear support bracket with the supplied allen head bolt (6 mm) after removing the stock manifold bolt. Then, you will route the belt according to the diagram provided in the supplied instructions. Then, zip tie the braided supercharger oil drain line out of the way and for easy access for changing the supercharger oil.







Loosely install the intercooler (you are going to need to move it around a little to be able to fit all the coupler tubes):




Rotate the lower radiator hose clip up and out of the way, and detach the plug assembly from the body (pictured below my fingers). (Also note that I did not need to move the factory power steering reservoir out of the way, due to the location of my PSC unit.)




Following the supplied instructions, route all the tubing and couplers, and then snug everything down.





Install the blow off valve and resintall the stock air temp sensor. Notice the iPad on top of the engine that I used to watch the YouTube install video along the way:



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Last edited by planman; 01-24-2013 at 10:59 AM.
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post #7 of 20 Old 01-21-2013, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Install the Tee fitting to the stock vacuum line and route the hose out of the way to plug into the blow off valve. Then, install the air filter with the hose plugged into the end of the air filter and to the hose connection that comes out of the passenger side of the valve cover (zip tie the connection out of the way). Then, carefully follow the instructions regarding supercharger unit oil and gear case vent.




Refill coolant. Recheck all bolts, clamps, plugs, clips, etc., twice. Reconnect battery. Reinstall the front clip (use a file to add clearance to the front clip where needed with the intercooler).




I reinstalled my winch at this time.




My Predator tuner already had the most up-to-date tune from RIPP installed. So, I followed the instructions to install the tune, set my tire size, etc.



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Last edited by planman; 01-24-2013 at 10:04 AM.
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post #8 of 20 Old 01-22-2013, 05:34 AM
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planman's 2dr Rubi JK gets RIPP'd

Jeep just keeps getting better and better man!
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post #9 of 20 Old 01-22-2013, 06:20 AM
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patiently waiting for the write up...and my kit to be delivered.
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post #10 of 20 Old 01-23-2013, 04:51 AM
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How many miles on the engine?

2008 Black 2Dr 6spd D30/44
RK 2.5 X-Factor | Synergy tie rod | 35x12.5 MTRK's | BFH front | Genright rear | Yukon 5.13's | ARB front locker | Warn M8000 w/MasterPull synthetic | Rigid 10'' E-series
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post #11 of 20 Old 01-23-2013, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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planman's 2dr Rubi JK gets RIPP'd

Thanks guys.

I'm trailering the JK 850 miles today from Billings, Montana, to St. George, Utah, to test this thing out at Winter on the Rocks (winterontherocks.com).

I should be able to add some text to the above pics tonight.

Although my JK started as my daily driver, it has become a "fair weather" daily driver. Since my commute is only a few miles, the JK only has about 21k miles on it--most of it offroad.


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Last edited by planman; 01-23-2013 at 11:28 AM.
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post #12 of 20 Old 01-23-2013, 09:11 PM
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Nice shots. I'm sure once you add detail it'll help others doing this install.

Looking forward to reading what you think after you get back from your trip!

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post #13 of 20 Old 01-24-2013, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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planman's 2dr Rubi JK gets RIPP'd

Thanks.

Text added above.


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post #14 of 20 Old 01-28-2013, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Well...it worked great!







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post #15 of 20 Old 09-21-2013, 08:24 PM
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Ripp install

plan man. Do you recall how the injector electrical connectors come off? These red clips and push buttons are driving me crazy. I got the three facing the front off, somehow. But not knowing exactly ow is making the the drivers side impossible. Don't want to break one of those deals.

I am curious, at what altitude is the smaller pulley a benefit? I am at 4500, I suppose you're higher? If I lived west of the front range of Colorado I would expect the smaller pulley to work best. But the drive to southern Utah puts me at the same elevation as here, there's a few hills between.

Any points would save what little hair I have left.

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post #16 of 20 Old 09-22-2013, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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I'd need to rewatch the YouTube install video to recall the specifics on the clips. I am sure that on some of them I used a small flat blade screwdriver.

I live at 3500 ft, and besides Montana, I wheel Colorado, Black Hills South Dakota, Moab, and Sand Hollow (St. George).

With the extra boost from the smaller pulley, I restrain myself from mashing the accelerator until the engine has warmed up--regardless of the elevation. So for me, the smaller pulley would be the way to go, even if I lived at a lower elevation.


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Last edited by planman; 09-22-2013 at 08:37 AM.
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post #17 of 20 Old 09-22-2013, 12:23 PM
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May have already been stated but what boost is the smaller pulley and what is the standard?

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post #18 of 20 Old 09-23-2013, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idaho 51 View Post
plan man. Do you recall how the injector electrical connectors come off? These red clips and push buttons are driving me crazy. I got the three facing the front off, somehow. But not knowing exactly ow is making the the drivers side impossible. Don't want to break one of those deals.


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were you able to work these off?

I used a very small, thin flat blade screwdriver that I lightly pushed under the clip and then lightly pried up just to pop them a little loose, they then pulled up pretty easy.

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post #19 of 20 Old 09-23-2013, 06:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4wheels4life View Post
May have already been stated but what boost is the smaller pulley and what is the standard?
I don't remember exactly off the top of my head, but I recall the smaller pulley produces 1-2 psi more than the larger one. I think the smaller one pushes 7-9 psi. The 3.8L isn't a high compression engine and can handle more boost than say a corvette.


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post #20 of 20 Old 09-23-2013, 07:08 AM
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Planman has a real nice write up here that is a nice supplement to the good Ripp instructions and the youtube video, RIPP Superchargers GEN2 Supercharger kit Install for Wrangler 07-2011 - YouTube

Planman was also helpful in answering a question or two I had, thanks Anthony!

I had two items come up that I can comment on:

1. removal of the EGR tube. two screws on the top and two on the bottom, these are self explanatory. The middle of the tube is held in place by a stud bolt that Planman has photo of above. There are two hard lines that are in a bracket directly above the stud bolt that you need to remove. They will not move out of the way unless you pop them out of the bracket first. I just wedged a small, thin screwdriver in there and popped them out of the bracket, then they push out of the way easy enough and you can put a deep well socket on the stud bolt.

2. routing the passenger side tubing is fairly easy as there is only one hard pipe and two rubber connectors. The driver side takes some fiddling around to get all the pieces to line up. I was having a hard time and found out that I was pushing the tubing too far into the rubber connectors. This made the end at the throttle body not line up correctly. I realized that you should only push the tubing into the rubber connectors enough so that the hose clamps have enough to clamp past the little lip in the tubes, maybe 1/2 inch or so. For instance, the tube that connects the intercooler, I had the tubing pushed all the way into the rubber connector to the point where it was practically touching the intercooler tube. They do not need to be pushed in that far.

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