Custom Exhaust using Dynomax EVO on 2103 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 19 Old 10-21-2012, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
stanman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 180
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews
Custom Exhaust using Dynomax EVO on 2103

This IS NOT going to be your basic installation write-up for installing an aftermarket exhaust on our 2013 Unlimited Rubicon. This is a custom exhaust project to relocate the passenger side crossover behind the crossmember.

First thing the wife said was, "It needs to be louder!" Enter the Dynomax Ultra Flow EVO System (#39522).



Along with the Dynomax EVO I ordered two 2" stainless J-bends from Summit Racing... I've belonged their Pro Shop for years and get a nice discount.



First mod I made was to the exhaust turn down that comes with the EVO system. This pushes the exhaust towards the back of the Jeep instead of straight down. If you've ever been around a vehicle with a turn down in dusty conditions you'll understand why I did this. It helps from kicking dust up right under you and pushes it to the back.



One of the first things I've realized is jack-stands that work on race cars and normal vehicles aren't much help on Jeeps. Note to self, "purchase four 6-ton (taller) jack stands."



Other tools I used on this project or you'll need to change our your exhaust and/or relocate the crossover:

1. Ratchet wrench or impact gun
2. 18mm socket
3. 16mm socket
5. 15mm deep socket
6. 15mm box end wrench - preferably 12-point.
7. 13mm socket
8. Silicone spray lube (WD40 works too)
9. Die grinder with cut-off wheel
10. 4-1/2" grinder with 80 grit flapper wheel
11. Chop saw
12. Saws-All
13. 3/8" Drive Air Ratchet
14. TIG Welder... you can use MIG but sparks suck!
15. 308 SS and ER-70S filler rod.
16. Acetone
17. Black chassis/roll bar paint.

Greg Stanley
STANMAN Fabrication & Design
stanman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 Old 10-21-2012, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
stanman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 180
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Besides the wife wanting it to be louder, the main reason for this project is to move the passenger side exhaust cross over to the the rear of the main crossmember. It doesn't look like it in this photo but the driveshaft will hit the exhaust crossover even with stock suspension.



Let's get to removing the stock exhaust! You'll need to remove the transfer case skid plate and transmission crossbar.

It's obvious they install the exhaust with the body off when you try to get to the front clamp bolt (15mm) from underneath.



The other bolt in the exhaust is located above the rear axle. The only other thing holding the exhaust pipe, resonator, and muffler are the rubber hangers... two on each end of the resonator tube and two on each end of the muffler.





The muffler's rubber hangers aren't very photogenic and kind of hard to get loose.

Liberal use of the silicone spray or WD40 makes it a lot easier.

Getting the resonator section loose from the collector was the hardest part of getting the exhaust out... wiggle, wiggle, pull, pull.



The Y-pipe exhaust flanges use two 13mm head bolts on each flange.


Greg Stanley
STANMAN Fabrication & Design
stanman is offline  
post #3 of 19 Old 10-21-2012, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
stanman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 180
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Since nothing is going to be in the stock location, the first thing I did once the exhaust was out was to removed the front hanger support from the frame rail.




One of the big issues with me and the Dynomax EVO is the hanger support and bracket that comes in the kit. It is supposed to mount using the two bolts that hold the evaporator mount/skid. But you either have to cut a section of the lip off the mount/skid or be okay with it sitting on the hanger support. Not cool in my book.


My solution was to cut off the majority of the bracket and weld it in place so I didn't have to mess with the evaporator mount/skid. The more difficult solution but much cleaner!



Greg Stanley
STANMAN Fabrication & Design
stanman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 19 Old 10-21-2012, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
stanman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 180
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Time to start modifying the stock Y-pipe!

There is a small straight section between the bend at the flange and the double bend leading to the crossover. Make the cut for adding the length of pipe to move the crossover behind the cross member in this straight section.



Put the Y-pipe behind the cross-member and reinstall the transfer case skid plate with the bolts just snugged up. I used a long thin piece of 3/4" MDF board to space the crossover above the skid plate. Install the passenger side exhaust flange assembly but leave the bolts loose enough so you can adjust the alignment.


The length of tubing needed was exactly 11"... about what I had imagined when I was taking my measurements before beginning. I cut an 11" section off one of the J-bends, matched up the ends, and marked the new tube and flange assembly to know where to position them for welding.

Now for some tool porn!

My weapon of choice for joining metal together is my HTP Invertig 221.


Always deburr and clean your material with acetone before welding.

I first tacked the 11" piece of tube onto the crossover side of the Y-pipe. Four good tacks should be enough for this size and weight of tubing.


It can be a little tricky holding the two pieces together with the alignment mark perfect, holding the TIG torch in place for the first tack, and flipping your helmet down... yes, I still have an old fashioned welding helmet that DOES NOT have an auto-darkening lens. I've just never liked them.



Greg Stanley
STANMAN Fabrication & Design
stanman is offline  
post #5 of 19 Old 10-21-2012, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
stanman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 180
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Once the 11" extension piece was fully tacked, I put the assembly in place and bolted up the passenger side exhaust flange. With the flange bolts snug and the crossover sitting on the spacer and skid, the outlet of the collector was way to high.


I marked the crossover in a spot to be cut so I could rotate the driver's side section to lower the collector outlet.


Right where it needs to be.



Finding a spot to cut the driver's side of the Y-pipe that could still be fully welded was a challenge. There isn't much room between the tubes. A nice feature of the TIG torch I use is that I can extended the electrode out further than normal to reach tight spots.


Because the driver's side exhaust flange is fixed on the tube, it took some trial and error in positioning it so that the flange was oriented to maximize clearances for later and get the tubing in a position that wouldn't make fitting the extension tubing to difficult.

It actually took three small sections of tube with small bends to make it work.


Fully welded and ready to install! It was bit tight getting it back into place but once in, it fit perfectly.





Greg Stanley
STANMAN Fabrication & Design
stanman is offline  
post #6 of 19 Old 10-21-2012, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
stanman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 180
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

The final phase of the project was to get the muffler ready to install.

With the crossover now being 11" back I didn't need the transition piece that would normally go between the collector and muffler. So I cannibalized the slip tube end and the hanger from it.


I modified the straight hanger with a slight offset prior to welding it onto the short section of the slip tube end.



Then I shortened the turn down by about 2-1/2".



I'm not a fan of clamps so the slip tube and turn down are welded onto the muffler. If I ever need to replace the muffler I can simply cut them off and weld them onto a new muffler.



The last major step was to reinstall the hanger support I had removed earlier in its new location.



A little gloss black chassis/roll bar paint on the welded in hanger supports and it looked factory new.

Greg Stanley
STANMAN Fabrication & Design
stanman is offline  
post #7 of 19 Old 10-21-2012, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
stanman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 180
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Here are "final" installation pictures. Well, not so final...

The muffler hung down much farther than I liked. I can't imagine how low it would hang with the "stock" Dynomax installation.

I went back today and bent the rear hanger support upward so the muffler could be pushed back further, pivoting upwards on the hanger. The muffler is now only about an 1" below the frame rail instead of over 2"... about the same as the stock resonator was.

Both objectives of the project were fully met.

1. The crossover is no longer in the way of the driveshaft now or in the future once the new long arm lift is installed.

2. The wife is much happier now that it's "louder". It sounds angry instead of like a purring kitten.

Hope you guys/gals enjoyed this write. Feel free to comment! Thanks!




Greg Stanley
STANMAN Fabrication & Design
stanman is offline  
post #8 of 19 Old 10-21-2012, 10:42 PM
Granite Guru
 
MrJones944's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Farmington Hills, MI
Posts: 331
Feedback: 0 reviews

Dude good work but it seems like you made this a helluva lot harder than it needed to be. I did this muffler and mounted it in the same location but only had to add a small section of tubing (14" or so if my memory is right) for it to work with two 45 degree bends.

Sorry for the mud the mall was dirty


All credit goes to imposter for his help and work.

2012 Rubicon Unlimited

Its almost done!!!!!!!!!!!
-Dan Jones

Last edited by MrJones944; 10-21-2012 at 10:47 PM.
MrJones944 is offline  
post #9 of 19 Old 10-22-2012, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
stanman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 180
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrJones944 View Post
Dude good work but it seems like you made this a helluva lot harder than it needed to be. I did this muffler and mounted it in the same location but only had to add a small section of tubing (14" or so if my memory is right) for it to work with two 45 degree bends.

All credit goes to imposter for his help and work.
If all I was doing was installing a muffler that is exactly what I would have done too.

But I also moved the passenger side crossover from the stock location to behind the cross-member, under the transfer case, to get it away from the driveshaft.

No worries on the mud! We just got our first rain since we took delivery. It was nice working on a clean underside for a change.

Greg Stanley
STANMAN Fabrication & Design

Last edited by stanman; 10-22-2012 at 07:27 AM.
stanman is offline  
post #10 of 19 Old 10-22-2012, 09:28 AM
Granite Guru
 
MrJones944's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Farmington Hills, MI
Posts: 331
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by stanman View Post
If
But I also moved the passenger side crossover from the stock location to behind the cross-member, under the transfer case, to get it away from the driveshaft.
OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. That makes sense now.

2012 Rubicon Unlimited

Its almost done!!!!!!!!!!!
-Dan Jones
MrJones944 is offline  
post #11 of 19 Old 10-22-2012, 01:43 PM
JKowners Vendor
 
Dynomax Exhaust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: behind a computer answering questions. Wish it was a trail.
Posts: 351
Feedback: 0 reviews

That came out great! Amazing skills.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Dynomax Exhaust is offline  
post #12 of 19 Old 10-22-2012, 03:04 PM
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Age: 46
Posts: 46
Feedback: 0 reviews

Who told you the driveshaft will hit the exhaust with an all stock suspension/wheels and tires?
BadTrainDriver is offline  
post #13 of 19 Old 10-22-2012, 03:08 PM
JKowners Vendor
 
Dynomax Exhaust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: behind a computer answering questions. Wish it was a trail.
Posts: 351
Feedback: 0 reviews

Not sure it was in this post, but in other posts he mentioned he will be going to a Long Arm system down the road, hence the great work/relocate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BadTrainDriver View Post
Who told you the driveshaft will hit the exhaust with an all stock suspension/wheels and tires?


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Dynomax Exhaust is offline  
post #14 of 19 Old 10-22-2012, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
stanman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 180
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by BadTrainDriver View Post
Who told you the driveshaft will hit the exhaust with an all stock suspension/wheels and tires?
My own eyes on the first day we took it out. "Hit" may be a bit of exaggeration but the rubber boot was just touching and that is too close in my book.

But yes, the primary goal was for a long arm set-up in the near future.

Greg Stanley
STANMAN Fabrication & Design
stanman is offline  
post #15 of 19 Old 10-22-2012, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
stanman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 180
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynomax Exhaust View Post
That came out great! Amazing skills.
Thanks!

Greg Stanley
STANMAN Fabrication & Design
stanman is offline  
post #16 of 19 Old 10-23-2012, 11:55 AM
V8 dreams
 
jvandy50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: jonesboro, ar
Posts: 3,536
Feedback: 0 reviews

nice


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2010 Silver JKU
jvandy50 is offline  
post #17 of 19 Old 10-24-2012, 04:08 PM
Granite Guru
 
Cambo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Lodi, Ca.
Posts: 291
Feedback: 8 reviews

Nice work! Any problems with exhaust gas getting into the cab? I like the idea of the exhaust dumping out after the muffler, but I would be afraid of getting the exhaust smell. Especially on the trail. Any extra heat shields at the new muffler location?
Cambo is offline  
post #18 of 19 Old 10-25-2012, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
stanman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 180
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cambo View Post
Nice work! Any problems with exhaust gas getting into the cab? I like the idea of the exhaust dumping out after the muffler, but I would be afraid of getting the exhaust smell. Especially on the trail. Any extra heat shields at the new muffler location?
No issues with exhaust coming inside, not even with doors open. If you go back up and look, I modified the turn-down to push the exhaust towards the rear rather than straight down.

Greg Stanley
STANMAN Fabrication & Design
stanman is offline  
post #19 of 19 Old 12-02-2012, 07:19 AM
Rock God
 
Monster Jk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Greeley Crawlarado
Age: 32
Posts: 1,846
Feedback: 23 reviews

That's some nice looking welding ya got there

Rescue Green 2008 Sahara Unlimited; RK 3.5 max travel; 37" Toyo Mt; PSC Brawler lite front bumper; PSC rock brawler rear w/ tire carrier; OR-Fab rock guards; Aev hood

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Monster Jk is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome