Powertank Air Toggle Valves - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 05-20-2012, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Powertank Air Toggle Valves

Ok, so I had a couple threads out there about these valves and I decided to go for it. My main goal was to eliminate the electric solenoid provided by ARB (i.e. failure point). A fringe benefit of the swap would be that I'd gain back 2 of my sPod switches.

So, I debated where to put them for a while. Thought about putting them in front of the shifter, but there's not alot of room behind that panel. So, I figured I'd put them just below my center console lid behind my cup holders.

After tearing out my center console, I realized there wasn't nearly enough room in that area for all the plumbing. The valves probably would've hit the storage area and I'd have had to carve a hole in it to allow them room. So, that was a no go. I got to looking and found a perfect location between the cup holders and shifter.



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post #2 of 16 Old 05-20-2012, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so back to this after a couple days...

There are 5 air lines that need to be run to/from the valves. I ran the line for my rear locker through the firewall where my sPod lines are run and decided there had to be a better way to do it as that wasted ALOT of line.

So, after deciding on a location, I had to make it work. First, I had to cut off the corner of the metal plate that surround my shifter.



Then, I drilled four holes in the bottom of the Jeep and put some rubber grommets in them.



After the holes were set, I fished the ARB air lines through the floor. Be careful when doing this 'cause if you push them too hard, the grommet slips through and you've gotta start it all over. I put a little lithium grease on the hose and pushed it slow and steady through the hole until I got it where I wanted it.



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Last edited by jeeperjkj; 05-24-2012 at 07:05 AM.
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post #3 of 16 Old 05-20-2012, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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After that, I had to get the switches mounted in the center console.

First, I drilled the holes in the upper piece and mocked them up.



This is what it was gonna look like underneath. Not tons of room, but enough to make things work.



When I first tried to push the threads through both pieces of the console to mount them, I realized that the two pieces of console together were way too thick for the valve threads to make it through and still have enough thread to put the nut on. So, I cut a rectangular hole in the bottom piece that would allow the valves to move up and mount just on the upper piece.



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post #4 of 16 Old 05-20-2012, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some under shots showing where the air lines come out underneath.







For now, the exhaust lines are simply tucked in behind my gas tank skid.


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post #5 of 16 Old 05-24-2012, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so it took me 4 days to get back to it. I'm sorry.


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post #6 of 16 Old 05-25-2012, 12:55 PM
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Looking good. Hopefully some folks will see this and get some mileage out of it. For some reason no one uses these things, they'd rather deal with solenoids, wiring, junction blocks, multiple regulators, and all kids of other crap. I'll take the simplicity of the mechanical pneumatic switches any day.

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post #7 of 16 Old 05-25-2012, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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I finally got my red switch covers on today. Little bling, bling for them...


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post #8 of 16 Old 06-26-2013, 05:18 PM
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Seeing i have never seen this switch before, i take it there is a line that runs from the compressor to it the to the locker? You mentioned an exhaust line, is that the third port? Where did you get your switch covers? I would hat to bump into a switch running down the highway at 70+. Thanks for the info, i too like the idea of eliminating the electronic failure from the arb.

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post #9 of 16 Old 06-26-2013, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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In this pic...



the air goes IN from the tank to the switch on the right in the port facing upwards. The next port down on the right switch simply runs over to the adjacent port on the left switch. The two bottom ports are the exhaust and the port that sends air to the locker.

The covers are optional. Even if you bumped the switch at highway speeds it wouldn't engage the locker unless you left the tank full of air all the time.

If you just use one ARB, then you'd simply get the switch on the left and run the line in the top port.


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post #10 of 16 Old 06-26-2013, 06:00 PM
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so just running one arb in the rear i would only need the "right" switch in your photo to operate it correct? Id be running the arb single 12 volt compressor under the hood oppose to your power tank, would flipping this switch do the same thing? I guess i am confused as to how a pneumatic switch will turn on the compressor under my hood instead of an electronic one.

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post #11 of 16 Old 06-27-2013, 04:09 AM Thread Starter
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No, you'd use the left switch if you only used one.

The pneumatic switch won't turn on the compressor. My compressors are turned on by my sPod. The switch is just to control the air going to the locker(s).


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post #12 of 16 Old 06-27-2013, 03:50 PM
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Is the pneumatic switch sort of a fail safe, instead of have the spod turn the compressor on and controlling the air? Sorry for all the questions, never used a spod or an arb. Thanks

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post #13 of 16 Old 07-02-2013, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Is the pneumatic switch sort of a fail safe, instead of have the spod turn the compressor on and controlling the air? Sorry for all the questions, never used a spod or an arb. Thanks
Sorry, I haven't been around much lately. The pneumatic switch is not so much a fail safe as it is just a way to eliminate one failure point (the electric solenoid). Much simpler design.


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post #14 of 16 Old 11-13-2013, 08:46 PM
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Looks great, I used similar switches in the tj. I like the non solenoid operation as well.

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post #15 of 16 Old 12-06-2013, 07:52 AM
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My installer puts them under the side of the drivers seat. This way, they are easy to reach but out of the way so they aren't inadvertently switched on. Front one for front, rear one for rear.
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post #16 of 16 Old 12-24-2013, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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My installer puts them under the side of the drivers seat. This way, they are easy to reach but out of the way so they aren't inadvertently switched on. Front one for front, rear one for rear.
Very good idea. If I ever move mine for any reason (if I get a center console or something), then I might think about that location. Looks good.


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