JK CLUTCH REPLACEMENT - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 35 Old 03-22-2012, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
Rock God
 
NascarRubicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Castle De
Posts: 1,929
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews
JK CLUTCH REPLACEMENT

So i havent seen a writeup on how to replace the clutch...so i decided to do one...my bosses 2dr jk's release bearing went and since his brother owns the company he had me do it at our shop...

first things first...if you have never done a clutch replacement before on any type of vehicle this can be extremely rough for you especially if you dont have the right tools

if you dont have access to a lift, like i didnt, its gonna suck even more doing it on jack stands but it can be done just takes longer...jeep pays 7 hours for this repair it took me the better part of 10 hours on the floor...luckily i get paid by the hour and i got time and a half for this

i have attached pics and will be going step by step with the pics below (for the most part)

remember SAFETY FIRST, no joke, if you think something might not be safe, it probably isnt

pb blaster is your friend

bring the truck in and make sure you have enough room around it to work

disco the batts

remove center console
-pop off the handles with a 5/8ths wrench
-remove the 4 torx screws that hold the console
-pull ebrake all the way up and remove console pull console up from rear

remove shift tower torx bit and pull off shift tower

you now have to remove the lower boot cover and a foam insert to access the top cover
Attached Images
 


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Eat Liquid Gold"

Last edited by NascarRubicon; 10-07-2014 at 05:02 PM.
NascarRubicon is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 35 Old 03-22-2012, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
Rock God
 
NascarRubicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Castle De
Posts: 1,929
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

remove the 4 torx screws that hold the top cover to the trans
-you dont "have" to remove the top cover but thats how i do it on twin countershaft trans in the tractors so i did it here, its 6 more inches of clearance that you gain

now go under the truck

remove front and rear shafts
-mark position of shafts for re-installation
-a brass hammer will be beneficial to loosening the shafts

on the d/s (drivers side) of the tcase is your linkage, pop off the linkage and also remove the green clip holding the cable to the tcase bracket
-bungee this out of the way

remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing
-make sure you bungee it out of the way so you dont break the pos plastic

remove the starter
-it has 2 bolts into the bell housing
-bungee this out of the way as well
-you can leave the electric hooked up to it since the batts are disco'd
Attached Images
       


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Eat Liquid Gold"

Last edited by NascarRubicon; 09-10-2013 at 03:27 AM.
NascarRubicon is offline  
post #3 of 35 Old 03-22-2012, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
Rock God
 
NascarRubicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Castle De
Posts: 1,929
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

remove the trans skid plate

reach your hand up and disconnect the sensor and breather on top of the tcase
-small hands help


on the passenger side of the trans is a bracket that holds the fuel lines, remove the bolt and let the lines hang

there are 3 nuts inside of the crossmember that hold it to an isolator bracket under the trans, remove these three nuts

after removing the nuts you can place a floor jack under the backside of the tcase and gently jack up the trans assembly
-the motor will move slightly, but dont jack up too much that you pick up the vehicle

place a jackstand under the trans and remove the floor jack

now remove the crossmember
-4 bolts/nuts on both sides and 2 bolts through the fuel tank skid, remove all of these
-pry the d/s of the cross member down enough to clearance the trans isolator bracket and remove crossmember through the d/s
-remember what way it went in
-remove the trans isolator bracket from the bottom of the trans, 4 bolts

place a trans jack under the trans assembly
-install the jack towards the rear of the assembly for balance, remember most of the forward area of the trans is the bell housing and its empty
-strap the shit out of the trans assembly, i wrapped one up and over and another around the backside of the tcase cinching the assembly to the trans jack

you can now lift up the trans assembly with the trans jack and remove the jack stand

turn your attention towards the y-pipe of the exhaust
-4 bolts hold the exhaust to the manifolds, these suck cause the clipped nuts will most likely spin on you, i was able to reach in behind the splash shields and get a 9/16ths wrench on the nuts when they spun.
-remove the 4 bolts
-disco the 02 sensors

cut off the clamp where the y-pipe goes into the rest of the exhaust
-pb blaster and a soft faced hammer will release the slip joint


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Eat Liquid Gold"

Last edited by NascarRubicon; 09-10-2013 at 03:27 AM.
NascarRubicon is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 35 Old 03-22-2012, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
Rock God
 
NascarRubicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Castle De
Posts: 1,929
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

you can now fudge the y-pipe out from under the truck and out the d/s
-be careful not to damage the 02 sensors

now that the exhaust is out of the way you can lower the trans jack a little bit more so you can access all of the bell housing bolts
-the top 4 bellhousing bolts are a bitch to get to without lowering the jack
-2 of the top bolts hold a harness bracket on the p/s, once the bolts are removed you have to move the bracket up so you will be able to pull the trans out
-the bottom bolts are pretty straight forward to remove

once all of the bolts are out of the bell housing double check to make sure nothing is still connected to the trans assembly, wires etc

you can now pull the trans assembly back revealing the pressureplate assembly

remove the trans assembly out the d/s of vehicle

you can now replace the release bearing
-pull old one off the nose cone
-the release fork can be removed also, a clip holds the fork onto a ball and socket joint
-clean the fork off
-replace the release bearing, it clips onto the fork
-grease the ball and socket joint and where the slave cylinder will go
-apply anti-seize to the nose cone
-reinstall the release bearing and fork


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Eat Liquid Gold"

Last edited by NascarRubicon; 09-10-2013 at 03:27 AM.
NascarRubicon is offline  
post #5 of 35 Old 03-22-2012, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
Rock God
 
NascarRubicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Castle De
Posts: 1,929
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

after replacing the release bearing and fork turn your attention back to the pressureplate assembly

remove the pressureplate assembly
-i think it has 6 10mm bolts
-save the bolts
-you will get a new pressureplate assembly

remove the flywheel
-mark the flywheel before removal for installation reference
-torx bolts hold the flywheel to the crank

you can now replace the pilot bearing
-its a roller bearing in the center of the flywheel
-tap it out and you can tap the new one in, just be sure not to damage on installation

scuff up the flywheel with a 180grit sander

reinstall the flywheel
-use the marks you made on removal
-i forget what the torque specs are but you can get them on jko somewhere

using the clutch alignment tool install the clutch plate onto the flywheel
-the tool slides through the clutch plate and into the pilot bearing

install the pressure plate onto the flywheel over top of the clutch plate
-you will have to keep the clutch plate centered while you slide the pressure plate onto the dowel pins on the flywheel.
-torque the pressureplate, i believe its 37ftlbs


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Eat Liquid Gold"

Last edited by NascarRubicon; 09-10-2013 at 03:27 AM.
NascarRubicon is offline  
post #6 of 35 Old 03-23-2012, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
Rock God
 
NascarRubicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Castle De
Posts: 1,929
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

now back to the trans assembly
-shift the trans into 1st gear,

align the input shaft into the clutch plate splines
-turning the output shaft will tell you if youre in the splines or not

once youre in the splines its time to slide the trans assembly all the way in and mate it back up with the motor
-you will have to jack up, down, adjust left right to get it to slide all the way in
-since the motor only has 2 mounts it helps to put a jack stand under the back of the motor to keep it from moving

mate up the trans with the motor
-mind the harness bracket up top, you need to slip it over the trans bell housing
-there is a plate behind the flywheel, just make sure it is sitting on the dowel pins to keep it from moving as youre pulling the trans in
-make sure all your bell housing bolts are aligned

once you have the motor and trans flush you can run the bell housing bolts back in

now that the trans is mated back up with the motor you can reinstall the y-pipe
-i got new clip bolts since the old ones were toast, they just clip onto the flange on the manifold
-make sure you dont mangle the 02 sensors
-reconnect the slip joint and install a new clamp

jack up on the trans jack and place a jack stand under the trans
-remove the trans jack
-reinstall the isolator and crossmember

remove the jack stand and lower the trans back down onto the crossmember with a floor jack
-reinstall the isolator bolts

reinstall the starter and slave cylinder
-once slave cylinder is installed check the pedal, make sure you have resistance, but not too much, it should be close to stock if using a stock replacement clutch

reconnect all wiring and tcase breather

reinstall trans skid

reinstall drive shafts

reinstall trans top cover, shift tower, and center console

reconnect batteries

hold onto your butts...turn the key

good luck


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Eat Liquid Gold"

Last edited by NascarRubicon; 09-10-2013 at 03:27 AM.
NascarRubicon is offline  
post #7 of 35 Old 03-23-2012, 12:28 AM
Granite Guru
 
BIGTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Bellmawr, NJ
Age: 46
Posts: 494
Feedback: 1 reviews

I am supremely jealous of your mechanical abilities sir

Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both.
disconnected

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
BIGTom is offline  
post #8 of 35 Old 03-23-2012, 03:29 AM
JKO Addict!
 
Goodysgotacuda's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Denton, TX
Posts: 13,230
Feedback: 1 reviews

Nice write-up, looks about as straight forward as it could be. I'd be tempted to remove the tcase with a couple more bolts while on the ground, make it a little easier to work with.

I'm at 45k and wondering when the stock clutch is going to start give me feedback!

SOLD - '09 2dr Rubicon - 1.0Gal | 6spd | 37s | 4.88s |
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
| OR-Fab cage | Poly Cage | BFH Front | XRC Rear | XRC12 Winch | Walker Evans Beadlocks |

Retired from the Jeep community, for now.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Goodysgotacuda is offline  
post #9 of 35 Old 03-23-2012, 05:15 AM
Granite Guru
 
RINGO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Farmington MI.
Posts: 385
Feedback: 0 reviews

A big salute to you sir and Super write up! This is definitely NOT on my radar of things to try.
RINGO is offline  
post #10 of 35 Old 03-23-2012, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
Rock God
 
NascarRubicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Castle De
Posts: 1,929
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
Nice write-up, looks about as straight forward as it could be. I'd be tempted to remove the tcase with a couple more bolts while on the ground, make it a little easier to work with.

I'm at 45k and wondering when the stock clutch is going to start give me feedback!
you could do that too...the tcase has quite a few bolts holding it to the trans but the hardest ones would be the top 3...you'd just have to address those top ones when you have the motor hinged back giving you more room...

it was pretty straightforward, but doing it on jack stands sucked and im a big boy so not so much room...

on and beach sand was in every hole...i could have built a castle


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Eat Liquid Gold"
NascarRubicon is offline  
post #11 of 35 Old 03-23-2012, 10:26 AM
JKO Addict!
 
Goodysgotacuda's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Denton, TX
Posts: 13,230
Feedback: 1 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by NascarRubicon View Post
you could do that too...the tcase has quite a few bolts holding it to the trans but the hardest ones would be the top 3...you'd just have to address those top ones when you have the motor hinged back giving you more room...

it was pretty straightforward, but doing it on jack stands sucked and im a big boy so not so much room...

on and beach sand was in every hole...i could have built a castle
Sounds good. I figure you got to the top bell bolts using long extensions from the tailshaft? That's how I usually get to the uppers...BMWs can be a bitch!

SOLD - '09 2dr Rubicon - 1.0Gal | 6spd | 37s | 4.88s |
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
| OR-Fab cage | Poly Cage | BFH Front | XRC Rear | XRC12 Winch | Walker Evans Beadlocks |

Retired from the Jeep community, for now.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Goodysgotacuda is offline  
post #12 of 35 Old 03-23-2012, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
Rock God
 
NascarRubicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Castle De
Posts: 1,929
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
Sounds good. I figure you got to the top bell bolts using long extensions from the tailshaft? That's how I usually get to the uppers...BMWs can be a bitch!
once you remove the cross member you can lower the tcase giving you the room to get a 12" extension and an impact swivel in from the side... im 300 lbs and squeezing myself up behind the trans assembly on the floor all the while straddling the trans jack was not going to happen...snapperheads 3/8ths gun makes quick work of the top 4 bolts...its hard to see but the harness bracket on the p/s can be clearanced from the bell housing with a long prybar, just pry it up and the tension on the harness will keep it out of the way


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Eat Liquid Gold"
NascarRubicon is offline  
post #13 of 35 Old 03-23-2012, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
Rock God
 
NascarRubicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Castle De
Posts: 1,929
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

You might be able to cut the crrossover on the y-pipe so you can get the trans out and reinstall it with 2 seal clamps...just an afterthought

Sent from Skynet


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Eat Liquid Gold"
NascarRubicon is offline  
post #14 of 35 Old 04-13-2012, 09:41 AM
Granite Guru
 
Mountain_Goat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Arvada, CO
Age: 56
Posts: 142
Feedback: 0 reviews

Awesome write up!!! Book marked! I'm at 36k on my Rubicon.

What was the mileage on the Jeep shown?

What brand replacement parts were used? Do you think you should have resurfaced the flywheel or was the 180 grit sufficient?

2009 4 Door Rubicon. 2.5" Teraflex Lift. XRC10 Winch on Rugged Ridge XHD front bumper. Armor: Skid Row Offroad Engine/Trans Skid. Skid Row front skid. Poison Spyder Evap Skid. Rockhard 4x4 Fuel Tank Skid. Rugged Ridge Control Arm Skids. Superchips Flashpaq Tuner. KC Slimlights on KC windshield brackets. Uniden Pro 520 CB radio on Quadratec Bracket. 35x12.5x17 Goodyear Duractracs. ACE Rock Sliders. Riddler Diff Covers.
Mountain_Goat is offline  
post #15 of 35 Old 05-06-2012, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
Rock God
 
NascarRubicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Castle De
Posts: 1,929
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain_Goat View Post
Awesome write up!!! Book marked! I'm at 36k on my Rubicon.

What was the mileage on the Jeep shown?

What brand replacement parts were used? Do you think you should have resurfaced the flywheel or was the 180 grit sufficient?
sorry for the long response....

mileage was 110k...jeep does not recommend flywheel machining....according to them just use the sanding discs...the replacement clutch was just a stock replacement nothing special...when i do mine own i will be using a spec 2+ most likely


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Eat Liquid Gold"
NascarRubicon is offline  
post #16 of 35 Old 07-19-2012, 07:53 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Locked in a basement
Posts: 16,621
Feedback: 0 reviews

Holy involved install, Batman!

Just passed 50K and my TOB is shrieking like a chick getting mugged every time I touch the clutch, so it looks like I'll need to get some parts together and git r dun.

JC install party, with Ryan in attendance?



Dancin Dan is offline  
post #17 of 35 Old 04-09-2013, 10:25 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 2
Feedback: 0 reviews

Great write up, gonna be changing mine this weekend. Do I need to replace the pilot bearing even if it isn't giving me any squeak or chirp?
Sapperjoe is offline  
post #18 of 35 Old 04-09-2013, 10:33 AM
Wheeler
 
failsafe306's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 26
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sapperjoe View Post
Great write up, gonna be changing mine this weekend. Do I need to replace the pilot bearing even if it isn't giving me any squeak or chirp?
Pilot bearing is one of those things that you just replace while you're in there. If you don't, then luck would have it that you have to tear it all back apart just to replace a $10 part.
failsafe306 is offline  
post #19 of 35 Old 04-09-2013, 10:48 AM
JKO Addict!
 
Goodysgotacuda's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Denton, TX
Posts: 13,230
Feedback: 1 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by failsafe306 View Post
Pilot bearing is one of those things that you just replace while you're in there. If you don't, then luck would have it that you have to tear it all back apart just to replace a $10 part.
Yep.

SOLD - '09 2dr Rubicon - 1.0Gal | 6spd | 37s | 4.88s |
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
| OR-Fab cage | Poly Cage | BFH Front | XRC Rear | XRC12 Winch | Walker Evans Beadlocks |

Retired from the Jeep community, for now.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Goodysgotacuda is offline  
post #20 of 35 Old 04-09-2013, 11:38 AM
Rock God
 
DeucesALLin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey Village
Posts: 1,173
Feedback: 6 reviews

Pilot bearing, NATIONAL TOB, and if youve got the scratch, an aftermarket slave cylinder would be easiest before you bleed the system.

I have gone through 3 MOPAR slave cylinders in 22k miles.

Soon to be a vendor!!!
Looking for a good Rat Rod JK donor vehicle.
DeucesALLin is offline  
post #21 of 35 Old 04-09-2013, 11:39 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 2
Feedback: 0 reviews

Know where I can get one? I'm guessing through mopar, but everywhere I call no one seems to have them...
Sapperjoe is offline  
post #22 of 35 Old 05-24-2013, 07:38 PM
JKO Addict!
 
thedirtman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: southwest reno, nv
Age: 51
Posts: 4,273
Feedback: 0 reviews

Thanks for the write up, I just put a center force in my wifes jku. I took one more step and removed the transfer case as well to make it a bit easier to handle when re-installing.

Some build info here:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


[COLOR="Red"]New to jeeps, check this link
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
thedirtman is offline  
post #23 of 35 Old 06-12-2013, 05:26 AM
Wheeler
 
OZJEEP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Melbourne Australia
Age: 49
Posts: 46
Feedback: 0 reviews

Great Post, I just want to add my experience in this as ive taken my gearbox out twice now. Once for a TOB last year, the other im doing right now for a busted Dual Mass Flywheel, itís just freewheeling I have no Drive! You donít have this Flywheel in USA its only on Diesels but im doing a DMF to Solid Flywheel Conversion Kit so it wont let me down again.

Mainly the order of things I did differently.

1) Get 4 jack stands and support vehicle on axels
2) Pop off the Shifter Knob, pull up the rubber shifter surround (pulls up from the rear), unbolt the Shifter single bolt and wriggle it off the shaft. thereís no need to remove the console.
3) Now get back under the car Drop the bash plate
4) Remove D/Shafts at trans case and tie off
5) Remove exhaust cross over
6) I place a Jack under the g/box now!
7) Remove the cross member
8) Lower the g/box enough to get at bell housing bolts, lock the jack off there (or get a jack stand if you wish) as your lowering make sure there is no interference going on in the engine bay as the motor angels down, hoses wiring, radiator fan etc.
9) Go back to the shifter, you can now easily remove the foam rubber around the top loader
10) undo the 4 torx bolts to remove the top loader box, get a clean rag in there to stop dirt getting in when you drop the g/box. NB: this is not an option you have to remove the loader otherwise thereís not enough room to drop and move the g/box rearwards, the shifter stub shaft will interfere with floor.
11) You can now get around g/box better to remove slave cylinder, T/Case cable and lever, bolt for fuel lines, 2x wiring plugs, T/Case Breather Hose (tape hose barb to stop dirt)
12) the rear of the engine needs supporting, a wide block of wood on a jack on the edge of the sump will do, there wont be much weight its just stopping it moving when the g/box is withdrawn
13) you can remove starter motor and all bellhousing bolts now bar 2 bolts left in loosely.
NB: I just let the Starter hang, itís a light starter on the Diesel Engine, the cables are strong enough to hold it.
14) I didnít have a transmission stand, I used a jack at the rear of the box, and positioned a chain block hooked from upper control arm mount on one side Ė to chassis on the other side aft, i.e. the chain was at a cross angle underneath the bellhousing, this supported/cradled it well and allowed me to pull it back easily while supported by the chain.
15) when its all supported undo the last 2 bolts and pull/lever the g/box back, lower once the input shaft clears the clutch pressure plate.
16) Slide the box out and make Clutch or TOB repairs, I also found this a good opportunity to extend the T/Case Breather hose.


As said this is my second time, first time took all day to drop the g/box, this time i did it in 2 hours because i knew the procedure, Its still apart awaiting spares, TOB, Solid Flywheel Kit. Unfortunately its still the Sachs TOB as not sure if we can get the National one?

http://youtu.be/E0Hw1w5CZH8
.

Last edited by OZJEEP; 03-31-2014 at 09:38 PM.
OZJEEP is offline  
post #24 of 35 Old 06-29-2013, 08:12 AM
Wheeler
 
Gint2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Cumming, GA
Age: 50
Posts: 29
Feedback: 0 reviews

Great info... I will most likely be doing mine next week. TOB is noisy.

JK-AJ

Rock Krawler, RK D/Link Flip, RK HD Tie Rod, RK RRD Shocks, Nemesis Shock Relocation, Artec Truss, 315 DuraTrac's, LoD Mid Front & LoD Stubby Rear, Warn HP PowerPlant, Superchip, G2 Diff Covers
Gint2 is offline  
post #25 of 35 Old 07-11-2013, 12:05 PM
Rock God
 
scrogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 899
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

I seem to be in the need of replacing my throw out bearing. The clutch is probably fine, I've never had problems with but figured at 90k miles just as well do the clutch while its open. My question is, is there any real benefit to going with an aftermarket clutch vs just an OEM replacement?

As I stated, never had issues with current original clutch and who knows how much life is left in it, which is why I'd consider just an OEM replacement. Just wanting to justify the additional cost.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
scrogg is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome