Great Post, I just want to add my experience in this as ive taken my gearbox out twice now. Once for a TOB last year, the other im doing right now for a busted Dual Mass Flywheel, itís just freewheeling I have no Drive! You donít have this Flywheel in USA its only on Diesels but im doing a DMF to Solid Flywheel Conversion Kit so it wont let me down again.
Mainly the order of things I did differently.
1) Get 4 jack stands and support vehicle on axels
2) Pop off the Shifter Knob, pull up the rubber shifter surround (pulls up from the rear), unbolt the Shifter single bolt and wriggle it off the shaft. thereís no need to remove the console
3) Now get back under the car Drop the bash plate
4) Remove D/Shafts at trans case and tie off
5) Remove exhaust cross over
6) I place a Jack under the g/box now!
7) Remove the cross member
8) Lower the g/box enough to get at bell housing bolts, lock the jack off there (or get a jack stand if you wish) as your lowering make sure there is no interference going on in the engine bay as the motor angels down, hoses wiring, radiator fan etc.
9) Go back to the shifter, you can now easily remove the foam rubber around the top loader
10) undo the 4 torx bolts to remove the top loader box, get a clean rag in there to stop dirt getting in when you drop the g/box. NB: this is not an option you have to remove the loader otherwise thereís not enough room to drop and move the g/box rearwards, the shifter stub shaft will interfere with floor.
11) You can now get around g/box better to remove slave cylinder, T/Case cable and lever, bolt for fuel lines, 2x wiring plugs, T/Case Breather Hose (tape hose barb to stop dirt)
12) the rear of the engine needs supporting, a wide block of wood on a jack on the edge of the sump will do, there wont be much weight its just stopping it moving when the g/box is withdrawn
13) you can remove starter motor and all bellhousing bolts now bar 2 bolts left in loosely.
NB: I just let the Starter hang, itís a light starter on the Diesel Engine, the cables are strong enough to hold it.
14) I didnít have a transmission stand, I used a jack at the rear of the box, and positioned a chain block hooked from upper control arm mount on one side Ė to chassis on the other side aft, i.e. the chain was at a cross angle underneath the bellhousing, this supported/cradled it well and allowed me to pull it back easily while supported by the chain.
15) when its all supported undo the last 2 bolts and pull/lever the g/box back, lower once the input shaft clears the clutch pressure plate.
16) Slide the box out and make Clutch or TOB repairs, I also found this a good opportunity to extend the T/Case Breather hose.
As said this is my second time, first time took all day to drop the g/box, this time i did it in 2 hours because i knew the procedure, Its still apart awaiting spares, TOB, Solid Flywheel Kit. Unfortunately its still the Sachs
TOB as not sure if we can get the National one?