Install: 2 door Rock Hard Harness bar and Corbeau 4pts - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 3 Old 02-06-2012, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Install: 2 door Rock Hard Harness bar and Corbeau 4pts

A little history first (you can skip this if you want to jump to the install)
So after my driver seat belt crapped out on me (it permanently locked in the retracted position and yes I did clean it twice before it gave out). So after a trip to the dealer and a bill of almost $400 to replace just the driver belt I told them to go fuck themselves and after a fuming rage over a part that is required by law and for general safety I looked into the Corbeau harnesses but after little help on how the hell they actually install I just decided to wing it and $320 and 5 days later I had my parts at the front door.

Total time it took 2 people: 4 1/2 hours

What you need:
Rock Hard 4x4 2 door Harness Bar
2 race harnesses of your choice (I purchased Corbeau 4pts for the ease of use)
1/4 allen key
18mm socket
T50 torx
T40 torx
15mm socket
breaker bar
Optional:
butane torch
impact gun
1 friend
beer of your choice!

Step 1:Removing the seats
Now depending on what you have done to your jeep this can be the easiest step or the hardest. It was the easiest for me because back in july/august I bedlined my jeep so I already removed them.

Now because Chrysler is..... well.... Chrysler. EVERY BOLT YOU WILL REMOVE HAS LOCTITE ON IT!

If you never have removed a loctite bolt I advice you get help from someone who has. But if you have the balls to do it yourself, Godspeed. Basically you need to take a butane torch and heat the bolt to about 1000000000 degrees and let it cool down (I can not stress this enough if its still hot then you can strip the head and your fucked). After that take the 18mm and a breaker bar and get to work. But if you have a buddy that owns a gas station garage you can flip him $10 and have him use his Snap-on impact gun and zip the bolts right off without heating them. By the way, these bolts use red loctite



Step 2: B-pillar prep
So now the B pillar prep time. This is where personal preference comes in. I just ripped everything off and stripped it down the the bare roll bar because I like the way it looks. If your picky then your going to need to do a lot of cutting so that everything fits neatly and personally even if I wanted all that crap back on I dont even have the patience to do it.

Step 3: Seat belt removal (Optional)
Heres the fun part if you have broken seatbelts like me or just want to ditch them you have a few things to do. First remove the plastic shroud that covers the mechanism, on the belt reel there is a single bolt that holds it on the the tub. Use the T50 and give it a few cranks with the breaker bar and use an electric impact to zip it off. (these use blue loctite so their a bit easier). Now for the harder part, the top. you can either remove the whole height track by pulling away a little more cloth cover by the roll bar and using the T50 to crank it off (again blue loctite). or you can leave the track and remove just the belt. You just need to remove the plastic cover and have the bubba strength to get it off. (I didnt so I just removed the whole track assembly) After you remove both bolts theres a wire harness thats a bit tricky. You need to push the clip back like its on a track and pull the plug at the same time, these suckers are spring loaded so its a little ticky.




Step 4: Harness bar install
Now this is when a friend comes in handy. The bar was absurdly tight and I needed to use a good amount of force to get it around the roll bar. Once its around put the clamp end on it and start treading in the bolts. If your lucky you would have gotten a competent welder that plugged your thread holes and didnt spray slag all in them making it extra difficult to thread the bolts. If you have managed to get this far have yourself a beer, you deserve one, just sit back and enjoy your work so far.

Step 5: Harness install
This is where I really had no idea what to do. Since I removed both reel 3pts I had an extra bolt hole for my harness so thats where I started. With the receiver end on the right side I bolted the lap portion to the tub of the jeep (passenger side). I then threaded the harness through the bar and let it dangle. For the buckle end I went back to my seat for a mount point. If you lift up the bit of fabric that covers the hinge portion you will see two bolts using a 15mm unbolt the top one (again, blue loctite) and fit the harness so that the strap loop is facing down and the pointed end with the hole is facing up. Tighten down. If you want you can use your T40 (or is it T45) to remove the old receiver end off the seat. Now that your done throw the seat back in and tighten down the front two bolts. Make sure you properly wrap the harness around the bar for safety. Slide up the seat all the way now line up your rear holes and grab your harness ends. You need an L bracket to properly fit them at this point, use the L bracket to bolt it on top of the seat rail. Using the supplied hardware tighten the harness to the L bracket for safety. Repeat the same for the driver side.




Step 6: Electric
Now that you have removed your seatbelts you will now have a constant annoying chime going off in your jeep. There are 2 options, one that will just shut off the chime and one that will bypass the system so theres no chime or dash light. Both are just as easy but I guess its just prefrance. Hers the first way that just disables the chime:
NOTE:
The following steps must occur within the first 60 seconds of the ignition switch being turned to the ON or START position.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, and buckle the driver’s seat belt.
2. Turn the ignition key to the ACCESSORY/RUN position (engine does not need to be running), and wait for the Seat Belt Warning Light to turn off.
3. Within 60 seconds of starting the vehicle, unbuckle and then re-buckle the driver’s seat belt at least three times within 10 seconds, ending with the seat belt buckled.
4. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position. A single chime will sound to signify that you have successfully completed the programming.

If you just want the light to stay off theres a simple way to jump two wires to fool the system. Splice the green and black wires together under your seat and BAM no more chime OR light! Shout out to Venom who came up with this!

Step 7: Adjust and enjoy!
Have fun, wear your harness both on and off road and dont get hurt! Happy Trails!

09 X, 3.25" Rough Country Lift, NO SWAYBARS
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, 34 Swamper's, KC 130w Daylighter, Smittybilt SRC Rock Rails, AEV Snorel, HF Badlands 12000lb, Ace Tube Fenders, River Raider extended breathers, Poison Spyder Hood Louvers
Current projects: off road trailer.
Future upgrades: lockers, long arms, Drive shafts, Humvee 37's
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post #2 of 3 Old 03-27-2012, 07:11 PM
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Bump, any pictures of how the bar mounts to the JK? How are you liking those harnesses?

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post #3 of 3 Old 03-27-2012, 07:42 PM
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I hope you have some sort of cage in that as well. It would suck to roll over and have the harness hold you in place as the roof collapses and crushes you.
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