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post #1 of 8 Old 02-02-2012, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Question Axle Seal Leak

I'm looking at changing my front axle seals because they are leaking. Anyone done this before? Do I need a press or speciality tools to accomplish this?

Thanks
Orlando

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post #2 of 8 Old 02-02-2012, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Muddevil View Post
I'm looking at changing my front axle seals because they are leaking. Anyone done this before? Do I need a press or speciality tools to accomplish this?

Thanks
Orlando
There are a couple threads that show how to make a homemade "press". Not hard just pay attention to what ur doing.

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post #3 of 8 Old 02-02-2012, 08:38 PM
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There are a couple threads that show how to make a homemade "press". Not hard just pay attention to what ur doing.

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post #4 of 8 Old 02-03-2012, 04:38 AM
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I fancy myself as a pretty smart guy but I have no idea what the hell u are trying to say

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post #5 of 8 Old 02-03-2012, 10:18 AM
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It's hard to tell if it's good old fashioned frontier jibberish or just really Zen.

I think this thing is finally coming together. Still Needed: drive shafts, frame mount rails...then done son! For a while...
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post #6 of 8 Old 02-03-2012, 04:01 PM
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anyway,
changing front axle seals is a pain but not that tricky
special tools = 36mm socket and a seal driver


Pull the drain plug on the side of the diff and drain the lube
pull the wheels
have someone hold the brakes and break the 36mm axle bolt loose and remove it
pull the brake caliper/brackets - 2x 21mm bolts
rotors slide off
5mm allen bolt to get the speed sensor out (not completely needed but makes life easier)
3x 13mm 12 point bolts takes the unit bearing off - brake dust shield will come with it - turn the axle shafts to get room for the bolts to come out past the u-joints
axle shaft will slide out
repeat on the other side
pull the diff cover - let it pee more grease for awhile

if you have a rubi - look behind the diff on the top right side in the back and locate the little mushroom shaped plunger that rides on the locker ring to tell it if its locked or unlocked - just remember its there and dont mangle it when you're wrestling with the diff.
also if you have a rubi - theres an 8mm bolt on top of the axle housing to remove the locker plug, then you can pull the slack wire out the hole and unplug the locker from the back of the plug- its a bitch of a plug but it does come apart.

2 bolts on either side for the bearing caps

lay all of your diff parts out in order so you put them back just like they came out.

after you pull the caps (note left cap and right cap- you can even mark them with a sharpie if you think you might F it up) then its time to pull the diff.
Some slide out, some need persuasion with a small pry bar.
Just take your time and pull it straight out - there will be spacers on either side and bearings/races that will come with it - make sure and keep them in order!
you need to put it all back in the way it came out.
the diff is pretty heavy and dropping it is a bad idea.

good time to hose it all out with brake clean or something so you can see whats going on.

after thats all out of the way you can FINALLY get to the seals.

seals themselves are in the inboard end of the axle tubes

use a broom handle, long pipe, etc from the end of the axle to pop them out towards the center.

you may also have some plastic spacers come out too - these go on your axle shafts when you slide them in to keep them centered.

shine a flashlight down the tubes and make sure you get all the spacers out of both sides

using a seal driver - carefully drive the new seals STRAIGHT into the axle tubes.
Make sure the go all the way into the tubes and go in straight.

then put it all back together the way it came out.

a few reassembly tips..

make sure you get the spacers right on the diff when you put it back in, watch the plunger.

put the plastic spacers on the axle shafts - space them out along the length of the shaft to keep it centered when you slide it in.

put some grease on the tips of the axle splines so they go through the new seals without damaging them.


I did this from memory but it should be pretty accurate.


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post #7 of 8 Old 02-03-2012, 09:37 PM
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Yep, you got it Venom. I just did it last weekend.

Although, you can leave the hubs attached to the axles. Take them out as a unit. Skips the whole partner and 36mm socket part.

Last edited by geargrinder; 02-03-2012 at 11:15 PM.
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post #8 of 8 Old 02-07-2012, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venom View Post
anyway,
changing front axle seals is a pain but not that tricky
special tools = 36mm socket and a seal driver


Pull the drain plug on the side of the diff and drain the lube
pull the wheels
have someone hold the brakes and break the 36mm axle bolt loose and remove it
pull the brake caliper/brackets - 2x 21mm bolts
rotors slide off
5mm allen bolt to get the speed sensor out (not completely needed but makes life easier)
3x 13mm 12 point bolts takes the unit bearing off - brake dust shield will come with it - turn the axle shafts to get room for the bolts to come out past the u-joints
axle shaft will slide out
repeat on the other side
pull the diff cover - let it pee more grease for awhile

if you have a rubi - look behind the diff on the top right side in the back and locate the little mushroom shaped plunger that rides on the locker ring to tell it if its locked or unlocked - just remember its there and dont mangle it when you're wrestling with the diff.
also if you have a rubi - theres an 8mm bolt on top of the axle housing to remove the locker plug, then you can pull the slack wire out the hole and unplug the locker from the back of the plug- its a bitch of a plug but it does come apart.

2 bolts on either side for the bearing caps

lay all of your diff parts out in order so you put them back just like they came out.

after you pull the caps (note left cap and right cap- you can even mark them with a sharpie if you think you might F it up) then its time to pull the diff.
Some slide out, some need persuasion with a small pry bar.
Just take your time and pull it straight out - there will be spacers on either side and bearings/races that will come with it - make sure and keep them in order!
you need to put it all back in the way it came out.
the diff is pretty heavy and dropping it is a bad idea.

good time to hose it all out with brake clean or something so you can see whats going on.

after thats all out of the way you can FINALLY get to the seals.

seals themselves are in the inboard end of the axle tubes

use a broom handle, long pipe, etc from the end of the axle to pop them out towards the center.

you may also have some plastic spacers come out too - these go on your axle shafts when you slide them in to keep them centered.

shine a flashlight down the tubes and make sure you get all the spacers out of both sides

using a seal driver - carefully drive the new seals STRAIGHT into the axle tubes.
Make sure the go all the way into the tubes and go in straight.

then put it all back together the way it came out.

a few reassembly tips..

make sure you get the spacers right on the diff when you put it back in, watch the plunger.

put the plastic spacers on the axle shafts - space them out along the length of the shaft to keep it centered when you slide it in.

put some grease on the tips of the axle splines so they go through the new seals without damaging them.


I did this from memory but it should be pretty accurate.
Venom,

Thanks for taking the time for posting this. It doesn't sound complicated, but I usually like to see someone do it first. I retain more info that way. I will use your post as a reference.

Orlando

09 Black JKUR
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