Warrior Products Rear Corners w/LED Cutouts - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 12-16-2011, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Warrior Products Rear Corners w/LED Cutouts

First off I want thank Marcus @ RCO for a great price on these corners and for just plain awesome customer service.

Back in November I busted the p/s tail light on a rock at Gulches ORV. I knew that the tail lights were relatively expensive, I didn't know how expensive until I started trying to find a replacement. My unwillingness to spend $100+ for a tail light I would probably end up busting again led me to look at what options there are for replacements. I found 3 options.

1. Full corners with LED ala PSC, RROR, etc. - $700+
2. Warrior Rear Corners with LED's - $200
3. Warrior JK Taillight box with LED's - $200

Option 1 was out. I'm a PAF (Poor Ass Fireman) and dropping 7 bills was out of the question. I considered option 3 but I figured if the light didn't give then the sheet metal would and I'd end up with more damage than what I was trying to prevent. So I went with door number 2. I ordered a set of WP corners from Marcus @ RCO. I sourced the tail lights, reverse lights and turn signal resistors from a vendor on Amazon. All told I had just over $200 in the whole shooting match.

The corners are 16ga steel powdercoated black. They are attached to the body using supplied rivets. The first thing I noticed when I pulled them out of the box was the complete lack of decent instructions. The supplied instructions and the ones on WP's site are geared toward TJ's and not JK's. The second thing was that there was a lot more rivets than their was holes.
The fit of the corners to the body panels leaves a lot to be desired. WP should have had all the mounting holes drilled out prior to powerdercoat. One it would have made mounting eaiser and two I wouldn't have to drill through a freshly powdercoated corner. The only other gripe I have is about the license plate. The pic on WP site shows the plate mounted on their TJ corners. Their is no provision on their JK corners for mounting the license plate. For the price and relative ease of mounting though I'm happy with the purchase and I like the look of the short corners.

Obligatory crappy cell pics.




Also for anyone planning on doing LEDs throw away those cheap ass connectors that come with the resistors. Solder the connections and cover with heat shrink. Also installing flush mount LED's in cold weather sucks. I had to use 2 500w work lamps to warm the grommets up enough to get the lights in. The license plate mounting is temporary I have to fab up a mount for that soon.
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post #2 of 14 Old 12-16-2011, 11:03 PM
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looks good

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post #3 of 14 Old 12-17-2011, 06:33 AM
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Sweet!

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post #4 of 14 Old 12-17-2011, 03:40 PM
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you have better pics of the fitment?

pics of the holes you had to drill out and all the rivets you used??

i've been looking for more info on these for a while

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post #5 of 14 Old 12-17-2011, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joneszj View Post
you have better pics of the fitment?

pics of the holes you had to drill out and all the rivets you used??

i've been looking for more info on these for a while
I'll try to get some more tomorrow and post them, if not it'll be Monday.
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post #6 of 14 Old 12-20-2011, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joneszj View Post
you have better pics of the fitment?

pics of the holes you had to drill out and all the rivets you used??

i've been looking for more info on these for a while
The green circles in the pic below show the locations where WP predrilled the mounting holes. The red circles are where I had to drill to add additional rivets. All of the rivets were supplied by WP and are black to blend in with the corner.

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post #7 of 14 Old 01-04-2012, 10:55 AM
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Well, I stumbled across this thread a bit late, but I did notice a few things I would like to address. First, Thank you ffjeeper for purchasing Warrior Products, I hope you are happy with your new corners. Second, if anyone here ever has any questions about any of our products, please feel free to PM me here, call or email. I generally try to check PMs here daily, so you should have a response to any questions quickly. Now, to address the issues raised during the installation of the corners.

The corners are 16ga steel powdercoated black.
Our steel corners are made for 12-gauge steel, not 16-gauge, just wanted to point that out
The first thing I noticed when I pulled them out of the box was the complete lack of decent instructions. The supplied instructions and the ones on WP's site are geared toward TJ's and not JK's.
If you have any specific feedback on the instructions please PM me or email me. I looked over the instruction sheet on our website and they seem complete to me, but I would appreciate any feedback you can give on how to improve them.
The pic on WP site shows the plate mounted on their TJ corners. Their is no provision on their JK corners for mounting the license plate.
You are right, the picture should have a proper description, and without one is not very clear what is included with the corners. I will try to get a better picture with more accurate description on the website ASAP. The current picture of the TJ corner, also shows out lighted license plate bracket, sold separately from the corners.
I hope this clears things up a bit, and again, please contact me if anyone has questions, installation problems, concerns etc. As a manufacturer, we don't often get feedback from our dealers, so we would like to here from you guys.

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post #8 of 14 Old 01-04-2012, 08:04 PM
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These are great corners as I ran them on my last JK and you can see them on my website. I thought I had a write-up on them here as well but I may have posted it on another site.

On the concern about the license plate mounting to the corners in both the 4 wheelparts website and Warriors I had found before purchasing that that was going to be an issue if I did not buy an additional part (wasn't an issue because I did not want to run my license plate any where other than on the tailgate so I got the Warrior vent delete and center license plate holder w/tail light.

I did have a slight issue with a difference in the curve of the corner hugging the corner of my JK, so I had to grind and touch-up paint to get the driver side corner to fit snug against the jeep. My approach to installing these was to take my time and do a couple of test fits to make sure they looked as OEM as they could.

Reguardless I had them installed for 2 years and loved them and the new owner is loving them as well!


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post #9 of 14 Old 01-05-2012, 09:22 AM
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ffjeeper, I'm with you, for the $, these corners are hard to beat. I'm gonna get flamed for the sticker, anyway, here's some install photos.



Before and After, Left and Right...



Couple of tips :
#1. You need to buy the Warrior light kit AND their two resistors. Neither manufacturer or parts dealer tells you that the circular lights will blink too fast without them, so buy them together. Resistors are part # W/I2905

#2. The stock metal skin is two layers thick, and you'll drill and cut through both layers to get the new brake and reverse lights to sit flush. This means weakening the tailgate hinge area on passenger side - if you have an aftermarket rear tire carrier that supports the weight of the spare tire then I see no issue in doing this, but I'd think twice if your spare tire hangs on the stock tailgate mount that depends on tailgate hinges not sagging.

#3 The stock taillight wiring has a grey male-female connector. I mounted the pair of corners on separate weekends, being careful to note which color wire connected to which new pigtail connection on new lights. On the first corner, I kept the grey connector and connected the wire coming from connector to the new lights, but on the second corner I removed the gray connector realizing it wasn't needed. I wired same color wires to new pigtails and couldn't figure out why the new lights wouldn't work correctly. Took me the darndest time to realize the wires before the grey connector are not the same function after the grey connector despite being the same frigging color (but different functionally).

#4 To avoid keep cutting repeatedly, cut at least 1/2 inch of stock metal in addition to the diameter of the hole you trace using a sharpie. The lightweight lights are a tight press fit into the provided rubber grommets, and aren't held by the metal.

#5 The resistors need to be secured to the stock metal with a metal screw, the large hole from #4 will give you more access to achieve a solid bite and hold the resistor securely.



It's not apparant till you start the install, that a decent portion of the stock sheet metal where the stock taillights fit, needs to be sliced out




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35s on 7105 17x9, 2.5" TF coil lift, AEV snorkel, Warrior steel Fenders, Lightforce spots, Rigid 12" Lightbar in hood scoop, Skids & side Armor, Katzkin Leather, Ravelco, Duster, Trunk Lockbox & Cargo Tray. >> FRONT Olympic Rock + Stinger + Ares winch plate + Warn 9.5. >> REAR Expedition One carrier + 53" Hi-Lift.

Last edited by redwest; 01-05-2012 at 09:25 AM.
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post #10 of 14 Old 01-06-2012, 12:43 PM
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Thanks for the idea dude, just ordered my corners from Marcus

What do you guys think about bedlining them? I was thinking about doing spray on liner, and then a couple coats of color matched paint over that (jeep green). Kind of like the RR gatorhide. I'll definitely try it on a piece of scrap first though.
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post #11 of 14 Old 05-07-2012, 06:34 PM
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What is the nominal thickness of the diamond-plate version? 12ga just seems to thin to me to provide any real protection. 1/8" is as thin as I'm willing to go, 3/16 would be preferred.

Thanks.

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post #12 of 14 Old 05-11-2012, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BumpInTheRoad View Post
What is the nominal thickness of the diamond-plate version? 12ga just seems to thin to me to provide any real protection. 1/8" is as thin as I'm willing to go, 3/16 would be preferred.

Thanks.
I went out and measured, the Diamond plate is a hair over 1/8" at the thinnest.

It's not just the corner protection that makes the Warrior corners a great addition. The vulnerable boxy rear stock lights have to go, and a proper rear hit is gonna dent these corners as it will every other aftermarket corner, 1/8 or 3/16.

All the work to install these corners is in the pre-install cutting, so if I were to chew-up these corners, they are cheap enough to quickly rivet on new corners and reinstall the same LED lights that are frenched-in and protected.

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post #13 of 14 Old 11-03-2014, 04:59 AM
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Warrioir JK armor / LED lights

I know this thread is old but I'll give it a shot anyway.... I had major fitment issues with the corners and the reverse lights don't fit - its not even close - I'm gonna have to grind steel or the light housing to make it fit - the corners if I wanted them to fit tight to the body would require heating and grinding plus pushing the fuel filler towards the front of drivers side. They do provide a piece of door trim that I could have used to fill the corner gap but I just don't see the point...I also question why there are only 3 pre-drilled holes......
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Last edited by eton; 11-03-2014 at 05:06 AM. Reason: Add picture
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post #14 of 14 Old 11-05-2014, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eton View Post
I know this thread is old but I'll give it a shot anyway.... I had major fitment issues with the corners and the reverse lights don't fit - its not even close - I'm gonna have to grind steel or the light housing to make it fit - the corners if I wanted them to fit tight to the body would require heating and grinding plus pushing the fuel filler towards the front of drivers side. They do provide a piece of door trim that I could have used to fill the corner gap but I just don't see the point...I also question why there are only 3 pre-drilled holes......
Just saw that the fitment issue is as designed - trying to get it to fit tight was my mistake - so with that in mind disregard the above review. I'll have to get over it!
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