Transfer case puking fluid - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 12-12-2011, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Transfer case puking fluid

I searched and couldnt find very much helpful on the subject. My transfer case blew ALL of the fluid out about 2 days ago. Went from not leaking at all (been doing a bunch of non related work under the Jeep lately) to literally puking everything it had in one day. Pretty much everything from the back half of the transfer case rearward was covered in xcase fluid. Looks like it may possibly be coming from the output shaft but there was fluid everywhere so it was kind of hard to tell.

Is there anything document on a seal that needs to be changed periodically or that could just go bad like that and cause a catastrophic leak without any actual damage to the tcase?

I did notice one of the bolts on the rear DS balancer had the head broken off. Dunno how the hell that happened.

Any info would be great. Im going to the store to get some ATF-3 to fill this thing back up. The only thing I could find stated thats what they use. Im just going to fill it to the bottom of the fill plug and hope I can figure this out before I blow the damn xcase up. Its always something lately.

:ranton: First I brake my D30 in half and bust a shock while wheeling and have to replace all my control arm bushings, then my track bar bushings shit the bed and I have intermittent DW to deal with and now my xcase pukes everything its worth all over the rear end of my Jeep. NTM yesterday the wifes civic starts blowing cold air when the heaters on and trying to over heat on us... FML!!! All this while Im 2 months from leaving to do ANOTHER tour in Korea... Why cant something just go right for once. :endrant:

BTW... My JK is a 2010 with 37k on it. 2door 6spd sport with a 4" lift and 35's.


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Originally Posted by cjcraig7 View Post
I think I understand your question - but I am a two door guy.
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post #2 of 19 Old 12-12-2011, 03:50 PM
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I sure don't know but be sure to check that your TC vent is not plugged allowing pressure to build from heat.

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post #3 of 19 Old 12-12-2011, 03:50 PM
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I sure don't know but be sure to check that your TC vent is not plugged allowing pressure to build from heat.
This.

and the Civic sounds like the water pump isn't working.

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post #4 of 19 Old 12-12-2011, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Charlie View Post
I sure don't know but be sure to check that your TC vent is not plugged allowing pressure to build from heat.
Dont think thats the case. I just filled it. It had maybe a 1/2 qt of fluid in it and I took it for a spin for about 10 mins. Probably not long enough to get hot NTM i was only doing about 25 miles per hour. It probably leaked a half quart in that time frame. I have some pics Im bout to put up. Looks like my seal on the rear DS went bad some how.

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This.

and the Civic sounds like the water pump isn't working.
Thats what Im thinking. I think its just going bad and working on and off because it has intermittent problems. Neither of the symptoms are there all the time. Only tries to over head when Im interstate driving it (70-80 mph) and it only blows cold every now and then. Could be a clogged heater core, thermostat or the water pump. I havent had time to check it out and the wife only drives it to and from work which is about 10 miles so its not my main concern right now. Thanks though.


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Originally Posted by cjcraig7 View Post
I think I understand your question - but I am a two door guy.
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post #5 of 19 Old 12-12-2011, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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This is on the rear main seal on the x case. Definitely where the leak is coming from.

Is this replaceable... and why would it do this all of a sudden?

Also found out that one of the balancer bolts on the DS balancer broke the head off and the clasp is loose. Dunno wtf caused that. Shit just rolls down hill I guess.
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I think I understand your question - but I am a two door guy.
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post #6 of 19 Old 12-13-2011, 08:49 AM
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Not familiar with the JKs specifically so I'm not SURE but I imagine once you pull the driveshaft there's just a regular seal behind there. Get yourself some sort of seal puller and pull it out and install the new one. Not very hard if it's like the one on my 242. You may want to get 2 seals just in case if it's your first time replacing a seal. They can be a pain in the ass and aren't very hard to ruin while trying to install. Good luck and like I said I'm not positive, I may be wrong so I'd wait for someone else who knows for sure to chime in!

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post #7 of 19 Old 12-13-2011, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Not familiar with the JKs specifically so I'm not SURE but I imagine once you pull the driveshaft there's just a regular seal behind there. Get yourself some sort of seal puller and pull it out and install the new one. Not very hard if it's like the one on my 242. You may want to get 2 seals just in case if it's your first time replacing a seal. They can be a pain in the ass and aren't very hard to ruin while trying to install. Good luck and like I said I'm not positive, I may be wrong so I'd wait for someone else who knows for sure to chime in!
Thats what Im hoping. I dont really know where to get those seals. I wonder if napa carries them...


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post #8 of 19 Old 12-15-2011, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Ok guys... I got the seal changed and all is well, no leaking as of yet. Had to buy the seal from Jeep directly for something like 25$, fucking rip off but what can ya do. Do not get the seals from auto parts stores, they are the wrong seal. I had it torn down and ready to go late at night in my apartment parking lot just to find out I had the wrong damn seal, talk about being pissed.

I had to rent a claw puller from advanced auto for $70 I think. You get all your money back when you return it so its a good deal. Also got 3 quarts of ATF +4 to refill the transfer case. I was back on the road for about 50 bucks. Alls well that ends well I suppose.

First thing you have to do is remove the 8, 8mm bolts holding the DS to the yolk. You'll have to get an elbow/rotating socket of some sort to get in there. You can roll the Jeep to rotate the DS/Yolk to get at the hard to reach ones on top.

Next, set the drive shaft aside and you will see the nut holding the yolk to the output shaft. I believe this is a 30mm nut. All I had was a 33mm socket and I made it work. Its not torqued down much at all so it worked fine for taking it off and putting it back on.

Once you have that nut removed you will have to get some kind of puller to remove the yolk from the shaft. I rented a claw puller from advanced for about 70$. You get your money back when you return it so its virtually free.

After you have the yolk pulled you should see your bad seal. Its a metal outer seal with a rubber inlay that seals on the back side of the yolk. Im really not sure how mine went back, it actually looked good before I removed it from the case but I guess it just has to be perfect to work right. Only time will tell. Hopefully I dont have a bigger issue.

There may be a way to pull the seal without removing the cover. I found it easier to just pull the cover and I dont think it would be very easy to press the new seal in without removing it. NTM if its the RTV on the back of the cover that needs replacing then you can knock both out at once. Its held on by 6 10mm bolts. They are torqued down a pretty good bit so dont try and use a cheap socket to pull it. I broke one on my first attempt.

Once you have the cover pulled you can beat the old seal out and clean the cover up. In order to press the new seal in I took the yolk, seal, and cover and put them together. Then I used a dead blow (rubber mallet) hammer and beat the cover onto the seal using the yolk to keep it even. You have to be careful not to break the cover but you shouldnt have to hit it very hard. Once the seal is pressed in there should be about a 1/16" lip sticking out of the front of the cover. A little more or less wont hurt Im sure, that seal presses in pretty damn tight.

Now you are halfway through. All you need to do is replace the RTV as I have shown and reverse the removal steps. Fill your Tcase with 2.1 quarts of ATF +3 or +4 and you should be good to go. Check the seal for leaks after your first time running it around the block and pray to the Jeep gods that you fixed the problem correctly. I bid you adieu... Good luck in your endeavors. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjcraig7 View Post
I think I understand your question - but I am a two door guy.
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post #9 of 19 Old 12-15-2011, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Rest of the pics.

For searching purposes Im going to put some words in that I tried searching to find this write up. The only reason I did one so detailed was because I searched and searched and couldnt find shit....

Search words: Transfer case Jeep JK NP 241 J OR HD output shaft seal Part number 05013019AA NATIONAL Part # 4370N (wrong seal).

The only reason I included the 4370N seal was because thats one of the many that the auto parts stores tried to sell me. Its the wrong seal, didnt work for me.
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I think I understand your question - but I am a two door guy.
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post #10 of 19 Old 12-15-2011, 04:13 PM
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Nice write up. Glad ur up and running

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post #11 of 19 Old 12-15-2011, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Nice write up. Glad ur up and running
Thanks man! Hopefully this helps someone down the road!


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post #12 of 19 Old 12-15-2011, 04:56 PM
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Yeah, Thanks for the write up! I like when someone has a problem and follows through with a solution. We all know we will have the same issues eventually. Good to know where to find the info and pic definitely help for us driveway mechanics!

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post #13 of 19 Old 12-20-2011, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, Thanks for the write up! I like when someone has a problem and follows through with a solution. We all know we will have the same issues eventually. Good to know where to find the info and pic definitely help for us driveway mechanics!
I agree man. Pretty much had to figure this out as I went. Definitely would have helped to have a write up. I found a couple of half assed write ups from NP 231's and some other similar cases but its a lot better when you can see something from your actual equipment


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post #14 of 19 Old 12-20-2011, 01:17 PM
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I agree man. Pretty much had to figure this out as I went. Definitely would have helped to have a write up. I found a couple of half assed write ups from NP 231's and some other similar cases but its a lot better when you can see something from your actual equipment
Awesome now we have one, thanks for sharing

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post #15 of 19 Old 01-06-2012, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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I just wanted to update this. I have put a couple hundred miles on the Jeep since I changed the seal out. I checked it today while replacing my track bar and I can see no visible leaks on the outside of the Tcase and I checked the level of the fluid and its still right where it should be. Seems like this is a definite fix. Hope it helps someone out in the future.


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I think I understand your question - but I am a two door guy.
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post #16 of 19 Old 03-24-2012, 09:55 AM
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Good write up. I am having the same problem, but at the front DS. I've looked at the exploded view of the Tcase trying to find the similar part that you replaced for the rear. Has anyone had this issue on the front and have a part number?

Just when they think they have all the answers, I go and change the question.
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post #17 of 19 Old 03-24-2012, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Good write up. I am having the same problem, but at the front DS. I've looked at the exploded view of the Tcase trying to find the similar part that you replaced for the rear. Has anyone had this issue on the front and have a part number?
Sorry to hear that man. The easiest way to get the seal is to go to Jeep. They are actually reasonably priced on this too believe it or not. Just go down to your local dealership. There are only so many seals that are in the transfer case. Tell them you need the seal for the front output shaft and make sure to get a good size tube of black silicone too to seal up the mating surface and you should be good. Seal is about $35, pullers are around 100$ to rent (you get your money back) and the silicone is about $10 for the big tube.

Good luck and take pics to do a write up on the front


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post #18 of 19 Old 09-01-2012, 04:02 PM
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I used a 4" long piece of 2.5 " ID pipe to seat the seal in the case w/o removing the cover. I took a small flat blade screw driver and gently drove it between the seal and the case and pryed it out. I would not recomend seating a seal the way you did.Torque spec. on the nut is 130 to 200 ft. lbs(got that from a print out from a tech at the dealership). I did mine at 130 and seems to be good to go. 20 miles so far and no leaks. I also got two in case this happens again.
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post #19 of 19 Old 05-27-2015, 09:57 AM
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I know this is an old post but would anybody know if this seal works for both sides of the transfer case front and rear ?
Same issue happen to my seal but not leaking drastically.
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