River Raider Corners with a twist - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 11-20-2011, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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River Raider Corners with a twist

UNDER CONSTRUCTION PICS WILL BE ADDED SOON

Installing River Raider Crusher Corners

I looked into corners that were made of 3/16 steel and had good light protection and decided on the River Raider. Due to some pushing on the quarters during a run at Johnson Valley I had some indentions in the thin metal on the left side of my rig. River Raiders sight only shows Full Quarter and Corner only options, a call to them and a custom set was in the works.
When I received the Corners they came unfinished so a little prep was needed to protect the metal. A little self-etching primer and some spray paint, rust was no longer and issue.

On various sights there are some installation details but never enough to explain why and what to expect. You see, cut and drill here, then install, smooth RTV. Not much to go on.
What about tooling and those “Ohh shits!!” that always come around.

Tools:
Drill: Makes holes with proper bits.

#2 Phillips: Same as above. Removes taillights

Needle nose pliers: used to remove the spring clips that the tail light/license plate screws into.

Die-grinder: Used to cut away excess material. It is the most useful tool but requires Air. If you don’t have air you can use a Jig saw or angle grinder with care and use files to finish off the edges.

Rotary files: Used to make smooth rounded corners in your cutout and opening holes if you don’t have a 17/32 cutter. Not really necessary to round your corners but any hard corner is a stress point and can cause cracking.

Small sanding disks: Sanding rough edges in your opening.

Small wheel cutter: 3-4” for the Die-grinder.

Annular Cutter 17/32 or 5/8: used to make the holes for the Rivnuts. Annular cutter is the technical name for hole saw. You can pick one up a MSC don’t forget to order the Arbor.

Uni-Bit: God’s gift to sheet metal; cuts beautiful round holes. On the 5/8 hole this will work as well but good luck finding 17/32.

Allen wrench or APEX allen: Can’t remember the size now but will update, For the Flat Head Cap screws used to secure the guard to the Quarter Panel.
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Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.
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post #2 of 16 Old 11-20-2011, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Teardown:

1. Remove both tail lights, inboard two screws only need to come out.
2. Removed license plate assembly. Two screws for the plate, 4 for the bracket.
3. Remove hinge covers. You can get buy with the fender side but I removed all 4.
a. On the outboard covers I pulled out on the top while rotating down and they popped off.
b. Just pulled out on the inboard covers.
4. Removing the fender flares are optional. Mine fall off most of the time. As long as you cover them they may help during the installation.

Prep:
1. Tape over everything. You never know what you may hit while test fitting the panels.
2. Locate the factory seam and the holes for the tail light screws, mark their locations.
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Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.
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post #3 of 16 Old 11-20-2011, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Destroying a perfectly good corner:
They give you a couple of pieces of paper with markings on them; in the instructions they direct you to attach to the quarter and cut out the area. It is a huge area and covers the hinges, there was no way I was cutting all that area out. After starting slow I found out there was a method to their madness. You don’t have to cut out what they describe but you will have to work for it.


--The corners are bent on a Press Brake (big hydraulic Guillotine looking machine, that doesn’t cut but pushes the metal into a wedge and bends the metal). To make the JK corner the operator must make a small bend about every 7/16" to give a uniform rounded look on the outside. It can be an art and the guy at River Raider has it down, the JK corners are damn close. The problem with a press brake is it doesn’t really like compound bends, and the JK doesn’t just curve around the corner but also has a curve from top to bottom. If you’re comp cutting this isn’t an issue but when covering the factory corners it is. One solution to the problem is to cut the vertical bow out of the corner (why they require so much). The other is to hand form to help fit.—

I started on the passenger side.

1. You have to remove the raised areas the tail lights screw to. Enter the big Unibit, set it in the outboard lower corner and start drilling until the area is mostly removed, you can finfish up with the cutting wheel.

2. Same with bottom just not as big.

3. Come down () inches from the horizontal bend at the top of the quarter and com in () inches aft of the seam. The is where the top corner should be.

4. Come down () inches from the horizontal bend at the top of the quarter and com in () inches aft of the seam. The is where the bottom corner should be.

5. Use the Unibit to make a hole for each corner.

6. Cut the material out between holes.
- a. The upper inboard corner can be left alone
- b. The upper ouboard can be cut straight across to the taillight hole.
- c. Cut between the two outboard holes vertically
- d. Cut directly from the lower ouboard to the lower inboard
- e. It doesn’t look like you need to cut so much but you can’t contour the inside of the corner.

7. Test fit the corner.
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Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.

Last edited by Broncojohn; 11-21-2011 at 07:46 AM.
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post #4 of 16 Old 11-20-2011, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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8. Hold the armor against the long side of the fender and slide forward. The taillight recess should fall right in and the pocket of the armor should hold snug to corner. If not:
- a. If the recess cup is hitting remove more material from the inboard cut. I almost had to cut into the hinge pocket, but never had to cut into the support inside.
- b. Look at the middle of the inside edge of the armor it will probably hit the body before the upper and lower parts of the edge do.

-----Use a sledge hammer to bow the metal. I set two jackstand bars on the floor and suspend the corner between them. A few good smacks and you will bow the material just enough.

- c. Another issue is the corner could be over bent. You will notice this by the inboard edge of the armor fitting nice from top to bottom, the long end of the armor hitting the side of the quarter panel, and the pocket of the armor not holding tight at the corner.

------Slide the inboard edge of the panel under the tire and use leverage to open up the corner to allow a better fit.


- d. If it still doesn’t fit well clamp the long end of the armor to the body and look down between the body and the armor. Locate the contact point and remove. You may need to open up the corner cut to allow the armor to sit more flush.

9. With the corner fit as well as you can line up center inboard edge with the edge of the door opening and between the two hinges. Mark the hole points. Two people work well for this.

10. Now use the annular cutter or unibit and rotary file to make the holes for the rivnuts. You will need to cut through two layers of sheet metal, the outside skin and an internal support, which has a bend. (This is one of those things no one will tell you) A unibit will follow the inside bend and elongate your hole very fast, take your time. A series of twist drills and stepping up sizes may work better.

11. Paint the fresh metal and install the rivnuts.

12. Install the panel with two fasteners.

13. Check to ensure the armor fit is still in good with little or no gap on the side of the jeep. I had about ” in the pocket with a good fit on the side.

14. Take the weight of the long part of the armor off by clamping the armor to the side of the Jeep.

15. Mark the two outboard holes.

16. Remove the armor

17. Drill, paint and install the rivnuts in those locations.

18. Install the two outboard screws until there is a little of tension on them.

19. Start torqueing the screws back and forth until they are seated and outside of the armor is lined up with the body. You should not be able to see between the panels to the floor.

20. Mark the most forward holes.
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Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.

Last edited by Broncojohn; 11-21-2011 at 07:47 AM.
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post #5 of 16 Old 11-20-2011, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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21. Remove the armor.

22. Drill, paint and install the rivnuts in those locations.

23. Install the fasteners in all the location drilled and mark the remaining holes.

24. Drill, paint and install the rivnuts in those locations.

There is a uniform gap all the way around the corner of the Jeep about 1/8” and I can see the armor make contact will all the rivnuts and there is little or no pulling. The exception is the lower outboard corner the fastener on the side of the Jeep. The gap is about 3/8” you can tell this is primarily due to the contour of the body. It would probably go away if you cut out the seam as instructed by River Raider, but I believe 3/8” gap is better than losing the strength of the seam plus the armor plate.

Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.

Last edited by Broncojohn; 11-20-2011 at 02:23 PM.
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post #6 of 16 Old 11-20-2011, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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The Left side is installed in the same manor but it has its own twist. The inboard back side does not have a large support column for hinges but has double wall reinforcement. To retain some of the strength I cut the outer panel and then folded the inside over to retain the strength of an enclosed double wall. 3/16 plate is plenty strong but anything more can help. The Annular cutter works very well in this case too, the double wall is not deep enough to allow the rivnut to seat. I spent less time investigating and just put the holes at each corner and started cutting.

Once the armor is installed I moved to the gas fill port. Cut all the old attach tabs off and RTV on. There is just enough room to allow the seal to push over the tube and still get the cap on. Im looking for a better option. Ive even though about thinning the flange and sandwiching the shroud between the armor and panel.
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Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.

Last edited by Broncojohn; 11-20-2011 at 02:17 PM.
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post #7 of 16 Old 11-24-2011, 03:27 PM
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An finished pics?

Rescue Green 2008 Sahara Unlimited; RK 3.5 max travel; 37" Toyo Mt; PSC Brawler lite front bumper; PSC rock brawler rear w/ tire carrier; OR-Fab rock guards; Aev hood

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post #8 of 16 Old 11-24-2011, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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An finished pics?
Working on it. I plan on adding picks for most steps. I have to save the picks to JKO and post as links in the thread so they dont all come out at the end of the post.


Finished pics are in my build thread for now. I'll link them to the thread when I get to my home computer.



Sent from my little magic box.

Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.
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post #9 of 16 Old 11-26-2011, 01:54 AM
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Nice write up. Since my flop I have moved this mod to the top of my list to fix the trashed rear of my rig.

08 2Door Red Rubicon. Rock Krawler 5.5 Longarm Coilover, Polly rear Coilovers. AEV hood & wheels, 37"KM2s, JE Reel 1350 shafts, 5.38 Yukon gears, Superior axles, Shrockworks stubby, Fab Fours rear, sPod, Rebel Offroad brakes, Warn winch and lots more.

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post #10 of 16 Old 02-28-2012, 10:51 PM
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I'd really like to see how this turned out

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Maybe they just corrected your ridiculous mistake. Who the fuck orders chrome anything?
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post #11 of 16 Old 02-28-2012, 11:58 PM
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X2, I'd also like to see the finished product

08 2Door Red Rubicon. Rock Krawler 5.5 Longarm Coilover, Polly rear Coilovers. AEV hood & wheels, 37"KM2s, JE Reel 1350 shafts, 5.38 Yukon gears, Superior axles, Shrockworks stubby, Fab Fours rear, sPod, Rebel Offroad brakes, Warn winch and lots more.

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post #12 of 16 Old 02-29-2012, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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Damn, been busy and forgot to organize this.


Sent from my little magic box.

Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-29-2012, 05:25 AM
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Great work! Looks awesome!

My Build Thread ~
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post #14 of 16 Old 04-10-2012, 08:45 AM
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I know this is a month old, but can we get some pics looking from the top down and the bottom up? I wanna see how much of a gap there is.

Thanks

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post #15 of 16 Old 04-15-2012, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I haven't been watching this site as much since the JK has a new home in Oregon. I still work on them, I just don't have my own anymore.

The computer with the pictures had a hardrive failure and I lost most of the project pictures. I will look to see if any made it to the back up drive, and I will post them

I had a pretty consistant gap at the top just under 1/8" with 3/16" in the corners.

To achieve this it took some delicate sledge hammer work. The JK isn't straight from top to bottom, but the River raider corners are, so you need to massage them a bit.

I set the panels straddling two pieces of iron and contoured the panel to match the body; It doesn't take much. The best bang for the buck is on the back panel. If you do this is allows the corner to sit in farther and really closes the gap.

The larges gap I had was about 3/8" and it was on the bottom outside corner.

These numbers are with Nutcerts. If you use the cheesy rubber nuts you will stick out farther.

PM if you have any particular questions.

Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.
Broncojohn is offline  
post #16 of 16 Old 04-16-2012, 11:54 AM
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Thanks John.

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