If you are cheap like me and don't care to buy driveshafts with ~3" of lift..it may be something to consider. I redid my rear driveshaft at about 25,000 miles, this is the front driveshaft at near 40,000 miles. Doesn't look too bad, but I would like to milk it along as to it's had the lift on for 39,000 miles of it's life.
If you look at the race and the driveshaft stub, this sucker gets warm.
The grease you need costs $3, procedure is the same for the front or rear shaft (rear needs 2 packs, front needs one).
This job does require patience, if you like to use hammers or pry on things, do not attempt. These joints are machine parts and you need to take care of the surfaces and work with them to get it apart/back together.
Anyway, here is how to do it. I am assuming if you are considering this, you can remove the driveshaft. So I did not go into how to remove the driveshaft, I'd imagine there is already a write-up about that.
Step #1: Place the shaft on a suitable work surface, it'll need to be able to get greasy, because that crap gets everywhere! I used my bench vise for this, but take into consideration you do NOT want to "clamp down" on it. Tweaking any part that rotates at warp speed when you are going 70mph is going to give you problems. Take extreme care not to dent, drop, kick, or maybe even cuss at it. It's "fragile".
The first part that needs to come off, I'll call the "end cap". The end cap can be removed by using a screwdriver tip/chisel and a hammer and lightly tapping it off. Work around the joint, don't just get a part started and pry it off. You will tweak it. (not good). Use the vice to support the joint as you work off the end cap.
Step #2: Removing the boot from the joint. DO NOT cut the boot or the clamp holding it to the driveshaft, completely unnecessary! Anyway, as you can see it's the same deal and tap it off just like the end cap.
Step #3: Wipe the grease away to expose the snap ring, remove it.
Step #3a (should be four but I dont feel like re-numbering all of them!) You need to take the boot loose from the joint. Similar process as to removing the end cap.
Step #4: I use a air hammer, it's the best tool you can use for this process. I've yet to try and use a hammer and punch...air hammer's harmonics just makes the joint "fall off". Hold the joint with one hand (hand I was using for the camera) and lightly pull it off as you use the air hammer. It should come off very easily. If not, see step #3. Knucklehead.
*Note the orientation. The machined lip is for the end cap, the other end is for the boot
Step #5: Take your grease monster to a place where everything including yourself can get grease on it. And begin disassembling it. Rotate the spider and cage so that the ball bearings will come out. Some will pop out, some you can get behind with a screwdriver to just nudge it out. Do NOT pry, yank, hammer, slam, force anything. They will all come out with not much effort, just takes some finagling.
DO NOT PRY!
Step #6: Remove the cage and spider. Rotate the cage and spider so it's 90degrees to the joint and it will work out. Play with it.