Advance Adapter transfer case linkage - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-23-2011, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Advance Adapter transfer case linkage

i want to thank sok66 for the original write up. it was great. i wanted to add my thoughts
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55527

also the video on advance's web site was very good too.
http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/pn-715596/

here is the kit. it is stout!


first you remove the shifter bezel. make sure you pry up on the rear has the front hooks under the dash panel


next you remove the trans and transfer case knobs. i slid the bottom piece of the knob down then put a wrench up under it and hit up on it with a hammer to pop off the knobs.


i next took out the four torx bolts holding the console in. i also had to pull up on the parking brake lever all the way to slide the console out. now you can get to work taking the old cable out.


next i pulled the factory POS cable out of the black case. there are four nuts holding the shifter case to the floor board. i took that out and cut the factory cable so i could slide the rubber grommet off in one piece.


next i got underneath and removed the transfer case skid. if you don't have the rubi transfer case you don't need to remove the drive shaft and yoke. there is enough room to work around it. the instructions call for a #40 torx to remove the lever from the transfer case, on my jeep it was a 10mm socket. i removed the lever and cable. which was a good thing as my zip tie fix along with the plastic grommet were about to fail again!


now with everything out of the way i removed the transfer case handle from the assembly by knocking out the pin, save the pin and clip for reassembly. once the handle is out you need to press out another pin so all you have left is the handle. save this pin along with the spring and cap too. now i installed the handle in the new solid aluminum block that came with the kit. make sure the bend in the handle is in the correct direction. the video on there site shows this in detail.


next up i installed the handle assembly back into the black housing along with the new cable bracket. no way this set up is breaking!



next i reinstalled the assembly and ran the cable through the floor pan. remember to put the rubber plug on the cable to plug the hole in the floor. i installed the new lever on the transfer case and connected the cable to both ends. i left all the bolts loose so i could adjust the cable. the two large washers go on the cable where it connects to the old bracket by the transfer case.



i did add a cable tie to make sure the new cable does not come close to the drive shaft where it loops back up to the floor.


after some minor adjusting of the cable it is working great. nice positive engagement feeling to it. best of all no more sinking feeling in my gut when i shift into or out of 4lo!

Quote:
Originally Posted by lukecage View Post
If I hear banjos I'm out! I almost feel like an alien being a black guy in a jeep already, this is gonna be a real adventure
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Last edited by bubba2u; 09-23-2011 at 06:50 PM.
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post #2 of 15 Old 09-23-2011, 08:20 PM
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Nice write up! I'm just too impatient (or lazy) to stop and photograph the steps!
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post #3 of 15 Old 09-23-2011, 08:23 PM
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One odd benefit of my installation of the AA cable kit, after the install I now have sway bar disconnect in 4hi. I have no idea why, but it works like a charm. YMMV, of course. If I knew why this was happening I'd post it. If anyone knows, please post!
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-23-2011, 09:10 PM
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Great mod dude!!!

This highlights why I love having a jeep. The most aftermarket supported vehicle in the world. Any issues that arise there are awesome heavy duty aftermarket parts to fix it and make it better.

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Originally Posted by virtual_mage View Post
.....a dark forum, were people would sometimes be rude but yet be helpful.
JK 2dr rubi
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-23-2011, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoK66 View Post
One odd benefit of my installation of the AA cable kit, after the install I now have sway bar disconnect in 4hi. I have no idea why, but it works like a charm. YMMV, of course. If I knew why this was happening I'd post it. If anyone knows, please post!
They are supposed to work in 4Hi and low...just re-connects when you hit 18mph. Awesome install BTW! that's one more item on my short list...

from the manual:
when activation conditions are not met. The stabilizer/
sway bar should remain in on-road mode during normal
driving conditions.
WARNING!
Do not disconnect the stabilizer bar and drive on
hard surfaced roads or at speeds above 18 mph (29
km/h), you may lose control of the vehicle, which
could result in serious injury. The front stabilizer bar
enhances vehicle stability and is necessary for maintaining
control of the vehicle. The system monitors
vehicle speed and will attempt to reconnect the
stabilizer bar at speeds over 18 mph (29 km/h). This is
indicated by a flashing or solid “Sway Bar Indicator
Light.” Once vehicle speed is reduced below 14 mph
(22 km/h), the system will once again attempt to
return to off road mode.
To disconnect the stabilizer/sway bar, shift to either 4HI
or 4LO (refer to “Four Wheel Drive Operation” in this
section) and press the stabilizer/sway bar button to
obtain the off-road position. The amber indicator light
will flash until the stabilizer/sway bar has been fully
disconnected.
NOTE: The stabilizer/sway bar may be torque locked
due to left and right suspension height differences. This
condition is due to driving surface differences or vehicle
loading. In order for the stabilizer/sway bar to
disconnect/reconnect, the right and left halves of the bar
must be aligned. This alignment may require that the
vehicle be driven onto level ground or rocked from side
to side.
To return to on-road mode, press the stabilizer/sway bar
button again.

Go Play Outside.
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post #6 of 15 Old 09-25-2011, 08:00 PM
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$200 is a bit much when all you need is a 5/16" nut and bolt, some loctite and an hour or so to grind the tit off the Xfer case lever

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post #7 of 15 Old 09-27-2011, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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i appreciate your input and i could understand your post if this was posted in a different thread. maybe general discussion? i posted this in the write-up section to help a fellow jeeper with my experience with installing the AA cable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lukecage View Post
If I hear banjos I'm out! I almost feel like an alien being a black guy in a jeep already, this is gonna be a real adventure
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post #8 of 15 Old 09-27-2011, 06:46 PM
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Great write up and much appreciated!

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post #9 of 15 Old 09-27-2011, 07:56 PM
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I ordered one over the weekend after my bushing broke at the t-case. Looking forward to having it installed, but hoping the driveshaft flange is not too difficulty to remove. Not sure I have a puller that will work. Has anyone else remove this flange?
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post #10 of 15 Old 09-29-2011, 03:05 PM
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It will come off fairly easily once you break the nut loose. It's not all that tight, about 150 ft lbs IIRC. If it's stuck on the shaft a few taps with a plastic or brass hammer will pop it loose. A 3-jaw puller will do the trick even better.

When you reinstall be sure and put some oil on the sealing surface and slide it on carefully to avoid damaging the seal.
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-29-2011, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoK66 View Post
It will come off fairly easily once you break the nut loose. It's not all that tight, about 150 ft lbs IIRC. If it's stuck on the shaft a few taps with a plastic or brass hammer will pop it loose. A 3-jaw puller will do the trick even better.

When you reinstall be sure and put some oil on the sealing surface and slide it on carefully to avoid damaging the seal.
Thanks, I was hoping it would not be stuck too bad. Its going to be a little while before I install it but I will get a chance eventually.
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post #12 of 15 Old 10-03-2011, 05:39 PM
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Question for people that have installed this cable - Do you have some "north-south" play in the shifter when in 4H or N? Also, I am not sure how positive of an engagement I am getting in 2H. I am going to take it back to shop that installed it when I get some time off work and have them take another look at it.
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post #13 of 15 Old 10-03-2011, 05:56 PM
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Jiggle kind of play in all gears, it's really easy to adjust...

08 Rubicon - AWE FAWK TOO MUCH TO LIST!
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post #14 of 15 Old 10-05-2011, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve View Post
Question for people that have installed this cable - Do you have some "north-south" play in the shifter when in 4H or N? Also, I am not sure how positive of an engagement I am getting in 2H. I am going to take it back to shop that installed it when I get some time off work and have them take another look at it.
Yes, there is a little on mine. Pretty sure it's just the free play they have you set with the bowden cable, plus there's a bit of free play stack up between the lever and the t-case internal shift mechanism.

As I mentioned in my write up, the picture they show in the instructions on how the t-case lever is to be installed is reversed. I learned the hard way that if you install it backwards as they show you won;t be able to engage 2wd low. If you watch their online video they have it the correct way.
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post #15 of 15 Old 10-06-2011, 09:17 PM
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I have a little play both ways, but it feels good. Also, I installed the lever as indicated in the instruction. My instructions matched the video.
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