Stock steel stubby + hidden winch + fogs + stinger + swaybar disconnect - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-15-2011, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Post Stock steel stubby + hidden winch + fogs + stinger + swaybar disconnect

Inspired by a couple guys (specifically MilitaryMan), I wanted to share my not-so-stock stock winch, stinger & fog stubby.

More pics of stinger to come soon..
Winch installed, prior to stinger:

Prior to winch, aluminum plate to cover the void and swaybar disconnect.
Note the aluminum plates to hold the stock fogs and fill the wide gap:


A few quick details on stinger
I bought some 1 3/4" .120DOM (standard roll-bar tubing) from an industrial metal supplier (about $65 for two 6' lengths) and had a custom bike shop bend it to my specs ($100 for both bends and angled cuts). The center of the two tow hooks is somewhere around 30 1/2" apart. Do your own measuring before you take my word for it, cause I don't really remember.

Then I had another local metal supplier/fabricator produce 3/16" steel plates to fit behind the stock tow hooks and punch the holes for the tow hooks to fit. Cost was approximately $35 for 4 plates. If you do this make sure you measure carefully! The top two holes are about 1/8" further apart than the lower two holes (hard to see with the naked eye). Why, Chrysler?? I think the measurements were something like 5 5/16" apart for the upper holes and 5 3/16" for the lower (both measurements are center to center). Double check before you take my word for it!
*Side note: I was thinking about having some more of these plates made up and making shackles for D-rings, but not sure how many guys would want them.

I bolted the plates behind the tow hooks and had a friend from this forum (Moose4x4) assist me while I began the tack welds. We also used zip ties to help balance the bottom so it was level as I began. Brian (moose) will be the proud owner of the second stinger come end of the week.

So, two custom stingers cost about $200 (not factoring gas and time). I'm pleased with the outcome, and plan to add a small loop inside the top hoop for the winch to clip on. Quite reasonable, if you ask me, and as a beginning/garage fabricator, I'm pleased with the outcome.
For the record I did take some welding/automotive classes a few years back when I bought my Miller MIG, and was careful in layering my welds and ensuring penetration.

Winch
The winch is a Harbor Freight Badlands winch, 12,000lb I bought new for $300.
The winch plate is a heavy steel L-shaped plate I picked up for under $10 at a local scrap yard. I just measured cut to my specs as I marched along, and then mounted to the chassis with a few stainless steel grade-8 bolts.

It's not complete yet; I plan to 'beef it up' with additional supports and a proper steel plate to support the fairlead.. then I want to fab a clean overlay to get the stock fogs flush again. Heck, I may build a whole new [heavier] front bumper if I find the right steel at the scrap yard. I have a couple ideas in mind.

One of the the toughest parts was getting the stock fogs to fit properly as they're fairly deep and just barely touch the winch. I don't like the way they stick out, but I'll live with it for now.

What do y'all think?

2007 Rubicon 2dr, 6spd dubbed 'Longhorn Edition'
3.25" Rough Country suspension lift
315/70/17 Kumho RV MT's on AR Fuel 8's
Modified Gobi roof rack (4 Hella's front, 2 rear)
OR FAB swing-out tire carrier (with dual Jerry cans)
ORO rear license plate light & relocation bracket
Homemade steel stubby front bumper, stinger, 12k winchplate
Homemade rock rails, 'psuedo exocage' (tree sliders)
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post #2 of 11 Old 09-15-2011, 03:49 PM
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Nice work! I LIKE IT!
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post #3 of 11 Old 09-27-2011, 04:51 AM
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Can't wait to get my stinnger done jipple! Just remember to pick it up from Scotty today.

09 X, 3.25" Rough Country Lift, NO SWAYBARS
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, 34 Swamper's, KC 130w Daylighter, Smittybilt SRC Rock Rails, AEV Snorel, HF Badlands 12000lb, Ace Tube Fenders, River Raider extended breathers, Poison Spyder Hood Louvers
Current projects: off road trailer.
Future upgrades: lockers, long arms, Drive shafts, Humvee 37's
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-27-2011, 07:06 AM
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Nice man, I like that a lot. Do you have a write up on it and/or a list of what materials you used? That is very inspiring and I would like to do something like this to my bumper, probably minus the comp stinger. Awesome job.

-Dan

2008 JK X: Sold
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-27-2011, 07:44 AM
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Looks good, you might want to think about adding some triangulation from the stinger back to the bumper incase you ever have to rely on it.

I think this thing is finally coming together. Still Needed: drive shafts, frame mount rails...then done son! For a while...
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-27-2011, 11:01 AM
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Grade 8 stainless? I've never heard of that. Where did you find these?

From what I know stainless is roughly equivalent to grade 2, I'd be ecstatic to learn I'm wrong though!
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post #7 of 11 Old 12-12-2011, 03:03 PM
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Cool man! Looks good. I was wondering when you were going to get around to this.


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Originally Posted by cjcraig7 View Post
I think I understand your question - but I am a two door guy.
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post #8 of 11 Old 05-15-2014, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Question

Quick question; I searched the forum but didn't see anything in regards to this.. if I missed it because I searched the wrong criteria, I apologize now.

I'm looking to either flip my factory recovery hooks upside-down or remove them entirely.. I know the bolts are not squared, as I mentioned in my post above the top two and the bottom two have a different measurement between them.. I made a mistake when welded my stinger on the brackets/plates I designed for the bumper so I could still remove everything.

Try to follow me here; I put the stinger mounting bracket on the bumper, then the tow hooks, then welded the stinger on. The recovery hooks are not welded to the stinger/mounting plates, but because the bolts are as long as they are I cannot separate the recovery hooks from the stinger assembly. Does this make sense?

Here's my question: Can I either hammer out the existing upper bolts off the recovery hooks, OR (last resort) do I need to chop them off with an angle grinder and drill the studs out (and then replace them with new bolts)?


Thanks guys! -JPL

2007 Rubicon 2dr, 6spd dubbed 'Longhorn Edition'
3.25" Rough Country suspension lift
315/70/17 Kumho RV MT's on AR Fuel 8's
Modified Gobi roof rack (4 Hella's front, 2 rear)
OR FAB swing-out tire carrier (with dual Jerry cans)
ORO rear license plate light & relocation bracket
Homemade steel stubby front bumper, stinger, 12k winchplate
Homemade rock rails, 'psuedo exocage' (tree sliders)
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post #9 of 11 Old 05-15-2014, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jipple28 View Post
Quick question; I searched the forum but didn't see anything in regards to this.. if I missed it because I searched the wrong criteria, I apologize now.

I'm looking to either flip my factory recovery hooks upside-down or remove them entirely.. I know the bolts are not squared, as I mentioned in my post above the top two and the bottom two have a different measurement between them.. I made a mistake when welded my stinger on the brackets/plates I designed for the bumper so I could still remove everything.

Try to follow me here; I put the stinger mounting bracket on the bumper, then the tow hooks, then welded the stinger on. The recovery hooks are not welded to the stinger/mounting plates, but because the bolts are as long as they are I cannot separate the recovery hooks from the stinger assembly. Does this make sense?

Here's my question: Can I either hammer out the existing upper bolts off the recovery hooks, OR (last resort) do I need to chop them off with an angle grinder and drill the studs out (and then replace them with new bolts)?


Thanks guys! -JPL
Chop them off. Cut off your stinger, rework your recovery points, reweld stinger back on. Let me show you my solution when I decided to get rid of the stock metal garbage after bending it up over and over.

I re-worked the original idea with a better solution. Still cheap, still simple. Maybe I can influence you again

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182585



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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjcraig7 View Post
I think I understand your question - but I am a two door guy.
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post #10 of 11 Old 05-16-2014, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by militaryman4455 View Post
Chop them off. Cut off your stinger, rework your recovery points, reweld stinger back on. Let me show you my solution when I decided to get rid of the stock metal garbage after bending it up over and over.

I re-worked the original idea with a better solution. Still cheap, still simple. Maybe I can influence you again
I like this very much! Thank you! I will have to find some steel and do this soon. Much cleaner; I will need to drill holes in some manner to fit my factory fogs, however. Come to think of it, a friend has a plasma cutter- he's pretty had lots of practice, maybe he can help me with that.

Terrific write-up, BTW!

2007 Rubicon 2dr, 6spd dubbed 'Longhorn Edition'
3.25" Rough Country suspension lift
315/70/17 Kumho RV MT's on AR Fuel 8's
Modified Gobi roof rack (4 Hella's front, 2 rear)
OR FAB swing-out tire carrier (with dual Jerry cans)
ORO rear license plate light & relocation bracket
Homemade steel stubby front bumper, stinger, 12k winchplate
Homemade rock rails, 'psuedo exocage' (tree sliders)
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post #11 of 11 Old 08-12-2014, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jipple28 View Post
I like this very much! Thank you! I will have to find some steel and do this soon. Much cleaner; I will need to drill holes in some manner to fit my factory fogs, however. Come to think of it, a friend has a plasma cutter- he's pretty had lots of practice, maybe he can help me with that.

Terrific write-up, BTW!
Thanks man! You gotten to this yet? I haven't been on in a while.


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I think I understand your question - but I am a two door guy.
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