My 2009-2011 Truck Hemi Install w/Jeep Speed Shop kit! - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 09-11-2011, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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My 2009-2011 Truck Hemi Install w/Jeep Speed Shop kit!

This thread is for all us Jeepers who want a powerful torque monster (2009-2011 Ram Truck Hemi, 5.7 vvt) to install at home. After 6 months of research, I used Jeep Speed Shop’s (JSS) kit and I will highlight the pros and cons with both JSS and their kit. I started with a 2007 JK 2dr Rubicon 6-Speed with the following major upgrades that in one way or another affected the swap. Dynatrac Dana 60s, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, High Steer Conversion, ARB Lockers with Compressor mounted under hood, sPod, and Tom Woods Driveshafts.

Everything contained here is based on my experience. I am not a salesman, I am a 30 year old shade tree mechanic who has rebuilt a few engines and swapped in a few engines the past 13 years, but none as complicated, expensive, and technical as this (although this swap is still not that bad). I have an average set of hand and air tools, a MIG welder, a Plasma Cutter, an engine hoist with leveler, a grinder, and a Sawzall all of which I used on the swap. I did not take a picture of every step as I was usually dirty and if you need pics of how to remove your old engine, you are in over your head. I will at times in this post reuse JSS pics and also add my own. I was able to do almost the entire install myself except for the following: pulling out and putting in with the engine hoist and lifting the T-case back up to the trans.
TIP = Buy this tool to pull the ton of trim and harness plugs off of the various parts of the JK. It will save you hours over a flathead… You’ll thank me!


Here is how I decided on the engine and trans. I was not going to spend the money on a new one, so used was my only option.
- 2005-2008 Jeep 5.7 = 330hp, 375 tq… Not enough HP for the $$$ and time involved.
- 2009-2011 Jeep 5.7vvt = 357hp, 389 tq… Hard to find used as everyone is using these.
- 2003-2008 Ram 5.7 = 345hp, 375 tq… Also low on power.
- 2009-2011 Ram 5.7vvt = 390hp, 407tq… Just right, built for low RPM torque, cheap & plentiful.
- 2006-2010 SRT8 6.1 = 420hp, 425tq… Complaints of poor performance with 545RFE trans, HP is too high in RPM range.
- New 6.4vvt = 470hp, 470tq… Too expensive and the intake is on the wrong side. What are you going to do with 470hp in a JK?
I chose auto over manual because I am tired of shifting and enjoy autos while rock crawling for days in the mountains (I’m moving to Colorado).

Here is how I decided on JSS.
- AEV has an excellent reputation but their offerings are limited (no truck Hemi kits). JSS’s kit is very similar to AEV’s kit.
- BOR makes you bash in the firewall. If no one else requires this, why does BOR? I didn’t want to bash my firewall.
- JSS has been in the TJ & JK Hemi swap business for 10 years. At first I discounted them due to their poor website, short email responses to my detailed questions during my research, and crude spelling in their posts. Once I gave them a call, my thoughts changed completely. Todd, the owner, will usually answer his phone or call you right back if he is talking to another customer. He stayed on the phone for 30 mins. during my first call. He was able to answer every question and was straight up about the pros AND CONS of his kit. If we had emailed back and forth, it would have taken a week to talk about everything we did in those 30 min. Also, he lets you decide what pieces of the kit you want to buy, swap, or pass on rather than sell you one kit that you may not want/need. I needed to call Todd about 10 times during my swap about a tech. question. He always had the answer and provided me with other things to watch out for as well. I’ve tried to explain everything in the steps further on in the post. Todd did say that the traction control and roll control BS does not work and neither does the MDS with his kit. That was great news for me as I hate the nannies and the Ram guys are complaining about the MDS.

So now that I have installed the kit what do I think of Todd and JSS. The pros are monster torque, customer support, and only buy what you want/need. Also his swaps pass California emissions which means they’ll pass Colorado emissions as well. The cons are poor marketing (Todd, if you are reading this, hire someone to post all of your craftsmanship on the website. You’ll save a lot of time on the phone, even though you enjoy talking Jeep, and guys can see what they are buying and why is it quality) and their lack of instructions. The 2009-2011 truck Hemi kit is a newer one for JSS and they did not have detailed instructions. I did get a lot of pics as a guide. For me these cons would be over as soon as I was done with the engine, but if I went with a Jeep 5.7 engine and AEV or BOR kit, the install may have been slightly smoother, but I would be stuck with less HP and TQ for many years to come. Because I felt this engine and kit should be on every JKers RADAR, I am hoping this thread will help with the lack of instructions. Also, sometimes I did refer to AEVs and BORs instructions, since they are similar, rather than calling Todd.

I bought the engine and trans out of a 2011 Ram 1500 from Greenleafprime on eBay out of Michigan for $4500 shipped. The engine had 3 miles on it and the trans had 7, the engine came with all of the front mounted accessories. I was skeptical, but he has 100% feedback and his answer to these low mileage engines was that when a new vehicle gets damaged in shipping, manufactures can’t sell it as new. He has an agreement with Chrysler to part them out. I can tell you that the parts I got seemed brand new. TIP = Try to also get the following truck parts that you will need for the swap (some of these are not shipped depending on the junkyard), fuel line only (you’ll reuse 3.8 vapor line), heater hoses (3.8’s are too short and curvy), flywheel cover for bottom of engine to trans (with bolts), plate between engine and trans, trans dipstick, starter and heat shield, bolts for engine to trans and converter to flywheel.

UPDATE: Do not use a 2011+ trans. The valvebody and solenoid is different and you will be stuck in limp mode. Use a 2009 trans (I have heard 2010 is OK as well, but you need to confirm this). I found out the hard way and it cost me $650 to change out to a 2009 valvebody, but I upgraded to a performance valvebody, so I am able to enjoy crisper shifts, oh well... live and learn!

Here is the basic kit: Steering relocate, hose clamps, bolts (engine mount to block, one A/C bolt, trans mount, intake), wiring harness, oil filter adapter w/o-ring (so the filter will not hit the JK suspension), exhaust manifolds (needed due to different flange direction for JK), T-case cable mount, trans lines, weld in engine brackets (these have two mounting holes, you can mount the engine 1” higher if you have a body lift which allows the fan to clear the shroud), air intake, air filter, intake mount, giant trans cooler (giant for a trans anyway), rubber engine mounts, trans mount plates, a/c lines, fuel line to tank adapter, P/S high side hose, battery box (single or dual, your choice, no extra cost), metal engine driven fan w/clutch, upper and lower radiator hoses, coolant bottle, and truck computer by Dave at B&G Performance. The metal pieces all come bare metal which allows you the option of paint or powdercoat.


I added: A custom brass radiator (brass cools better than aluminum, and it’s repairable, but is heavier and you can only use basic green coolant), heat exchanger (to use as an under hood shower), dual Aeroforce gauges, and extra wire needed to convert manual to auto.

If you did not get those extra truck parts I mentioned above, you’ll need to order those from Dodge as well as a “capacitor”. The Jeep Hemi used this $8 part as an RFI reducer (radio frequency interference), but the truck Hemi did not. HotwireAuto (the harness maker) adds this plug to the truck wiring harness so you’ll need the capacitor. I also bought a new dryer (small tube on front of condenser) for the A/C since my lines were open for a few weeks.

About the exhaust: The truck Hemi uses 2 cats total, the JK uses 4. You can buy an exhaust from JSS, have a complete one made local, or take the cheap route. I will be reusing my y-pipe (top two cats cut-off) and having a local shop add in the pieces to attach to the manifolds as well as add O2 sensor bungs behind the cats (I ordered 4 truck O2 sensors, but some say you can mix and match with the 3.8 sensors... it seems every swap kit manufacturer has a different method, but I played it safe). They will also be placing a new muffler and exhaust cutout where the Evap used to be. This will allow me to add a storage floor tub in the rear. Also, I can save the other two cats as cheap replacements for when mine die.

For those of you that are converting from a manual to an auto, you’ll need these (part #’s are always changing, so I didn’t bother posting them as I just told my dealer what I needed and they found it): The auto shifter, the shifter cable, the shifter sled (this bolts to the floor and covers your manual hole), bolts for the shifter to sled, auto brake pedal only (reuse same parts off manual brake pedal), the auto trans mount, and the console pieces (I did not need these as I have a Tuffy console).

Last edited by 86CJ-07Rubi; 09-19-2011 at 03:59 PM.
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I also upgraded different parts of the JK while I had the engine out: Pure Jeep Evap Relocate, Poly Performance Upper Rear Shock Mount Kit (the stock ones are a weak point), QTP electric exhaust cutout (to fine tune the sound of the exhaust or go full open at the push of a button), Blue Sea dual battery controller (this is like Painless Wiring’s digital battery controller, but with the extra options {in cab switch to override, manual under hood switch to override}), Full-Traction adjustable rear sway bar, RKC 4x4 Gauge Console, heated seats, foot well lighting, additional dome lights, Teraflex 2wd low in T-Case, CB external speaker, internal fuse and relay box, a P/S cooler, and extended breather lines.

I needed to modify the following aftermarket items to get the Hemi to fit: The 3.8 PSC P/S pump bolts up to the Hemi and is in line with the other pulleys, but you need to drill out the bolt holes on the pump (they are threaded on the 3.8, but need to be smooth for the Hemi). Two of the bolt holes are used and the back of the PSC pump rests on the third bolt hole boss (providing stability, but restricting use of the hole). PSC used to ship a 5 15/16” pulley for the 3.8 kit. Now they ship a 5” pulley (Dorman part # 300-133). The stock truck P/S pulley is 5 3/8”, but won’t fit on the PSC shaft. PSC will bore it out for free (just shipping costs) or you can order the $30 Dorman pulley from any automotive store. I had the 5 15/16” pulley and the belt rubbed on the gearbox. It cleared with the 5 3/8” and 5” pulleys. Also the PSC pump high side exits up instead of down. I was able to get JSS’ hose to work. I then needed to modify the ARB compressor mount for an A/C line to clear. I had to take the mount off and cut a piece of metal out from underneath (if you ask me, this mount is way too large for what it is and this “extra” metal was not needed in the first place). I fabricated a bracket to hold the PSC P/S reservoir, and also needed to use coils on one of the hoses to keep it from kinking due to the 180 degree bend. All 3 A/C lines needed to be massaged in different directions due to the larger PSC gearbox, the ARB compressor, and P/S reservoir. Since I was using the dual battery box and under hood shower, I had to take out my fender linings. I actually like it that way now. Plenty of room to work on everything and it will let the heat out of the engine bay. Yes the engine will get dirtier, but it will also be easier to hose off the engine. For those of you doing the swap with the body on, I would recommend taking these off for the swap and then putting them back on at the end. You can reach many things MUCH easier.

Ok, now for the swap part.

Step 1 – Take your JK to an A/C guy to have the system drained. This will save a lot of nasty harmful oil from going everywhere.
Step 2 – If time is a concern, make sure you have all of your parts before starting the swap. I have other transportation and was able to take my time, but a few of JSS’ parts are custom made and his suppliers can get delayed (waiting sucks).
Step 3 – Drain all fluids.
Step 4 – Remove battery box.
Step 5 – Remove T-Case. TIP = You can leave the drive shafts attached at the axles, but you may have to move them out of the way a few times during the install.
Step 6 – Remove Exhaust
Step 7 – Remove engine, trans, and cross member. TIP = For those of you leaving the body on, you can hook the chains up to the accessory bolts in the front of the engine and then to two of the engine to trans bolts in the rear. Using long extensions, remove the top two bolts by lying under the JK. Then drop the chain down between the firewall and engine. Attach the chain to each of the bolts and place them back in the holes. You can use an engine leveler (Harbor Freight has one for $40) or a ratchet strap from the bottom front of the engine to the hoist in order to tilt the engine while you are lifting it out.
Step Everything Else – The rest of the steps do not have to go in order. Just do them as you see fit. TIP = Use blue Loctite on every bolt you install. It will keep the bolts from vibrating out.

Steering: Tie the steering wheel up so it doesn’t move (VERY IMPORTANT), remove under hood shaft, and then remove interior shaft (TIP = it is much easier to remove the Amplifier from under the steering wheel to gain access to the shaft bolt that must come all the way out to remove the shaft) . Grind hole toward the brake booster and also downward a bit. Go slow and test fit the shaft a few times before you go too far. TIP = Pull up the carpet or put newspaper over the carpet or those hot metal shavings will embed themselves in the carpet. Prime and paint hole from outside and inside to prevent rust (I had the factory body color, but black will also due in a pinch). Install sleeve onto shaft and reinstall interior and exterior shafts.



Motor Mount Brackets: You cannot get to all of the welds with a cutoff wheel. If this is all you have, you will have to cutoff the brackets in several pieces so that you can get the cutoff wheel on the welds. In the end, I used my plasma cutter to cutoff as much of the brackets as possible, a cutoff wheel to weaken the welds, an air chisel to get behind the welds and pop off the remaining metal, and then a grinder to smooth out the frame. TIP = If you have an air compressor and are a welder, try and rent a small plasma cutter. It is simple to use and will save a lot of time and work. If you can’t weld, just pay someone to come cut them off and weld the new ones on. To weld them on, they are marked right and left with the arrow pointing toward the front. Place the hole in them over the hole in the frame and weld them on. Primer and paint really well.


Heater Hoses: Attach the truck Hemi heater hoses to the firewall. TIP = To save money you can extend your 3.8 hoses, but it will look like crap.

Fuel Line Adapter: Tighten AN fittings and then install it onto the fuel line from fuel tank.


P/S Hose: Install new high side hose and depending on your needs, cut the 3.8 metal low side near the frame rail. I used a P/S cooler in front of the radiator so I attached my soft hose here, ran it to the cooler, and then used another soft hose back to the reservoir.


Axle Breather Hose: Now is a great time to extend your front axle breather hose to the highest point you can (I placed mine in the driver’s rear corner of the engine bay along with the trans and T-Case extended hoses). The rear can be done at any time and behind the passenger taillight is a great place. This will allow you to ford water with contaminating your axles. You can by the male-male adapters and more line, or just buy a 25’ roll and run all new lines while reusing the breather caps.

Manual to Auto Guys: Before the engine is in you need to = swap in the auto shifter with the sled and cable. Also remove the clutch master cylinder (it twists off) and the clutch and brake pedal. There is a Jesus clip (named so because when you pop it off you yell “Jesus, where did that go!”) in the center of the bar that holds all three pedals on. Once this clip is removed, the whole bar slides out toward the trans tunnel (use a screwdriver as a lever and move the bar sideways). Add your new auto brake pedal in with the same bar, and reinstall the Jesus clip (if you ever found it). Install the new wire in Cavity #25 (it’s labeled on the plug) at C100 (the 34 way black plug near the brake master cylinder). Route the other end to the TIPM and into Cavity #26 of C2 (the 26 way blue plug). Without this wire, the trans will not shift correctly at speed. Also to have the back-up lights work, re-assign the Gray/White wire in Cavity #29 of C100 to #25. AEV has longer instructions about these wires.

Exhaust Manifolds: Replace manifolds and gaskets if necessary. The bolts are to be torqued to 18 pound-feet (or ft-lb as often incorrectly stated).

Oil Filter Adapter: Weld a nut onto the filter “bolt”. Todd states you can’t get this off by using Vise Grips on the “bolt” because the thread locker used is too strong. The heat from welding melts the thread locker and allows you to twist it off (throw this piece away). Discard the old o-ring and then attach the adapter and new o-ring. I was missing the three bolts in my kit (M6x1.00 thread). TIP = Coat the o-ring with a thin film of oil for a better seal. The adapter comes with a second Oil Pressure Sensor, but the Hemi already has one just above it. You could leave the second sensor in place, but I like things clean, so while I ran to the hardware store for those three bolts, I took the sensor with me to find a pipe plug (it was 1/8”). I installed the plug in the hole.


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A/C Compressor Mod and Lines: This is needed to keep the bolt from hitting the gearbox. Drill out bolt hole in pic. Don’t drill it out all the way, you will have to leave some metal for the new bolt to grab onto. Sawzall off a corner of the A/C compressor (TIP = use the thicker part of the compressor as a north-south guide as to where to cut). Install new bolt. Attach new A/C lines but reuse flat gaskets off of 3.8 lines as well as the A/C switch.




Trans to Engine: Attach them (TIP = make sure the torque converter is seated all the way back or you will be pulling your trans back out at a later date). Remember to use Loctite on those flex plate bolts. Install cover from underneath. Install fuel line and gently bend it over and down just behind the trans dipstick. Sawzall a small piece off of the 4x4 adapter for the T-Case cable bracket (lay bracket aside after). TIP = Now is the time to place a longer vacuum hose on the trans breather in order to move the vent to the top of the engine bay.



Wiring Harness: I placed the bulk of harness at the rear of the driver’s side head and intake area. I started attaching the driver’s and then passenger side fuel and coil plugs as these were the bulkiest. Then work your way around and make sure everything fits and none of the wires are stretched. I had to reroute a few, so if a wire is tight, there is a better way to route it. Then attach your 3.8 battery harness to the Hemi (this is the one that goes to the starter, alternator, engine ground, and battery). After you have everything on comfortably, a few well-placed wire ties keep everything clean. TIP = Get a can of Dielectric grease (the tubes are too small) and use it on all of the Hemi connectors and all of the JK body connectors when you plug everything back in. This will keep water, salt, dirt, and corrosion out of these connectors and make water fording a little safer. TIP = You can buy a small sheet of adhesive backed heat shield and wrap it around a few of the wires near the exhaust manifolds by the starter and on the opposite side. It’s cheap and easy insurance.

Engine Install: Remove the throttle body now to protect it from the chains and tape up the intake hole (you don’t want to drop something in there). I used the A/C bolt and a free bolt hole on the block under the passenger head to attach my chains. I then used the top two engine to trans bolts at the rear. TIP = When you start lifting the engine, make sure the chains clear the module attached to the upper rear intake. Do not attach the motor mounts yet. Slide the engine and trans in. When it is as far back as possible, jack up the bottom of the trans so you can take the chains off of the rear of the engine. Then slide the hoist and jack simultaneously until you can get the mounts attached to the engine block. Set the block down until you can insert the long bolts (reuse from 3.8) into the mounts. Once these are in, you can remove the chains. Then attach the cables and fuel line while you can still move the trans up and down if need be.


T-Case Install: You must install the T-case before any of the brackets/mounts for the trans. This is because you will not be able to tighten two T-case bolts with the bracket on the trans. Remember to also install the cable bracket that you notched the 4x4 adapter for. TIP = Jack up the trans, install cross member, but just slide long bolts into cross member, then set trans on cross member and remove jack to give up room to work without hitting the jack and dropping the trans on yourself. TIP = Place the T-case into 2 high so that you can turn the rear shaft in order to get the front shaft to line up with the trans as you are mating the two. It takes two people to lift this awkward T-case up. Don’t forget to hook up the 4x4 wire and breather hose. The T-Case seems to sit back about 1/4”. My Tom Woods drive shafts expanded and collapsed as needed to fit.

Cross Member: Once the T-Case is on, you can then use a jack again to remove the cross member and install the adapter based on the pic below. Note: The hole that allows a socket to pass through and tighten one of the adapter to trans bolts was not cut in my mount from JSS. After I cut a hole in it, I called Todd to inform him. He stated that this adapter does double duty on the TJ and JK and if the TJ guys have a hole, it doesn’t work and they have to weld it up, but the JK guys need the hole which is easy to cut out. He stated it may be time to start using two separate parts for the TJ and JK guys. Your kit may or may not come with a hole.



Battery Tray: The dual battery guys will need to run one set of wires under the box and another over the box. I welded a flat bar to the bottom of mine so that I could attach my under hood shower.


VVT Wires: There are four wires you will need to install into the PCM C3 connector (the only connector at the computer that did not come with the Hemi harness kit).
1. Untape and carefully remove the back cover from the connector. Un-tape at least 6” of wire.
2. Carefully pry the wire guide/seal cover from the back of the connector (all my tabs broke from being brittle and I had to superglue the plastic seal cover back on afterwards. Straighten the wires behind the cover and then pull the cover back. This second cover is the one you will be drilling or pulling the plugs from.
3. The terminal positions that need wires added will need to have the seal plug drilled out. Then the cover can be snapped back into place. These are #’s 5, 6, 7, and 33 and they are all well labeled.
4. On the front side of the connector, slide the red lock bar to allow the new pins to be added. Once the pins have been added to the correct locations, slide the red lock back to the locked position, and reinstall the back cover, and re-tape.


Fan Shroud Mod: The e-fan will need to be cut out and the shroud re-used for the manual fan. Anyone that has forded water and had the e-fan blades snap off will love the manual fan, plus it in on 100% of the time adding to cooling.


Finishing the Install: At this point you should know how to install the rest of the lines, airbox, throttle body, radiator, etc. Refill all fluids, 5w20 in engine 7 quarts, ATF +4 in T-Case a little over 2 quarts, ATF +4 in trans (continue to check and refill often after starting and driving), P/S fluid, and coolant.

Starting: Triple check everything before starting. Cycle the key several times to get fuel into the lines. Even so, it took about 8 seconds of cranking before it fired up (FIRST TIME… woo hoo!). I had to adjust the shifter to make it sync up with the trans.


I drove it down the driveway in 2 high and then put it in 2 low. The torque of this engine is evidenced by the fact that in 2 low, at IDLE, the body raised up 2-3” and then was sucked down 3-4” when placed in reverse. I have the Clayton Off Road 4.5” short arm lift with about 6k on it. The springs are not weak by any means, but the video below shows what I am talking about. In the video I am only running the manifolds, no exhaust, and it is deafening loud (the video doesn’t do it any justice).
http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/...urrent=019.mp4

Last edited by 86CJ-07Rubi; 09-19-2011 at 04:00 PM.
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post #4 of 17 Old 09-11-2011, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some pics of my install prior to putting the front clip back on.





You can see more install pics here as well as some of my other upgrades.
http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/...Install%20Kit/
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Completely & thoroughly subscribed!

Now I just gotta go back & read every last work before bombarding you with even more questions. Thanks for taking the time to write this up.

2011 5.3L GM LC9 Aluminum LS V8 Conversion w/ Custom Dyno Tune
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The write up only took 8 hours (don't tell the wife)!
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EXCELLENT write-up and congrads on the HEMI!!

BTW: You're going to love Colorado!

~Wilky and Rubi-Gene
2007 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon (Red Rock Canyon/Black)...previously stock.

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post #8 of 17 Old 09-12-2011, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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I got a PM with some questions. I figured I would post it here so everyone can learn.

WOW. GREAT write-up! This will help me a lot. Very well done.

OK - here's my questions:
1) How do you know how much to grind the steering shaft hole?


I haven’t seen a “template” with anyone’s kit, so basically you grind “South-East” until the raised contour in the body (next to the brake master cylinder mount). After a little grinding, use the spacer provided to see if you ground off enough. Once the shaft fits through with the spacer on, you know you’re good.

2) Is there a part included to mount the shaft over & cover the hole?

Yes, there is an egg shaped spacer.

3) Is the exhaust manifold torque really only 18 lb-ft?

Yes, try a search for it, I thought it was low also. I went 20 lb-ft and then 30 lb-ft (this was before I thought to look it up, but left it at 30).

4) Did you only cut the 3.8L PS hose for your cooler?

I cut the metal line part of the “hose” and I happened to still have a borrowed double flare tool that I used to flare the end because I am anal, but you shouldn’t have to, but it can’t hurt.

5) The oil filter adapter you're removing - I'm assuming this is on the 5.7, not pulling from the 3.8 for parts needs?

The silver oil filter adapter comes with the kit. It is probably off of another Chrysler vehicle. You are removing the stud that the 5.7 oil filter spun onto. The new adapter doesn’t spin on; it bolts up with a new gasket and three bolts. Then there is a stud on the adapter to spin on the new oil filter.

6) That AC Compressor mod seems dicey. Are there any dimensions?

Where is your sense of adventure? It is really quite easy. Select a drill bit a little larger than the new bolt. You are drilling aluminum, so it will go quick and easy. Drill out enough to recess the new bolt, but leave at least a 1/4” for the bolt to pull against. Then make the Sawzall cut (or use a grinding wheel) from straight up and down.

7) I don't see where to cut for this step: "Sawzall a small piece off of the 4x4 adapter for the T-Case cable bracket (lay bracket aside after)" - I'm assuming that's evident once I have both the trans & the cable adapter in hand?

JSS sent me many more pics than I could post here. They are all contained here: http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/...Install%20Kit/ They show how and where to cut. I cut off less than they did and was fine.

8) Fuel line adapters. Is this also clear holding them in your hand? I'm not sure which parts go on which line.

The adapter is 4 pieces (a female end with a small plastic clip, a male end, and a center piece that bolts these together). They come assembled, but you have to tighten them up with wrenches. You can clip it into either the fuel tank line or the fuel line hanging over the trans before you install the engine. After you have it in, clip it in to whichever line you have left open. It can only go in one way.

9) Parts list: have any part numbers?

Unfortunately no. I got to know the Dealership guys and gal pretty well. They were able to print a diagram of what I was looking for ( or you can llok up the diagrams here http://parts.mopar.com/ ) and I had the option of picking each numbered piece for them to order. They could get everything next day out of Orlando, FL, so hopefully all their warehouses are this well-stocked.

10) What is the "plate between engine & trans"

It is Red #3 in this pic. It slips between the engine and trans but does not bolt to anything by itself. The bolts that mount the engine and trans together are shown in the pic. The Blue #1 is the structural collar that also bolts the engine to the trans. Put this on after tightening the flexplate to torque converter bolts. Be sure to order all the bolts for these pieces.



11) Did you not have to buy any O2 sensors?

Yes and No, there are 4 ways to mix and match O2 sensors and every company does it differently. I ended up erroring on the side of caution and bought 4 Hemi Ram 1500 Denso O2 sensors from Parts Geek for almost 1/2 the dealer cost. They have different part numbers for the right and left sides (unsure why, maybe due to MDS which is deactivated anyway).

12) PCM C3 connector: I take it there are 4 bare wires in the included harness that need to be inserted into this connector?

Yes 4 wires with the small contacts on them.

13) How do you know which is the C3 connector?

There are 4 connectors total that plug into the new computer (C1-C4). 3 come on the new harness (C1, C2, & C4) and next to them is the 4 wire VVT plug with the 4 VVT bare wires. The C3 connector is the only one left from the old 3.8. This is attached to the body and would not have been removed with the 3.8. This is the one you’ll open up. They are all color coded as well (C1-C4), so you can’t plug them into the computer wrong.

14) Did you drain T-case fluid? I see you added in the end?

I drained the T-case because I was installing the Teraflex 2wd low shifter paw while I had the case out. Although I have locking front hubs (which means I can have 2wd low, by placing the T-Case in 4wd low and leaving the front hubs unlocked), I would rather lock the hubs in when I go off-road and then work the axles and lockers as I need them from inside. Installing the Teraflex part was easier than I thought (only 2 hours).

15) Trans cable adjust - is it just that bolt in the slot to adjust the linkage?

Yes, place shifter in park, place trans in park by hand (lever on trans), loosen the bolt, snap cable on trans, cable should be in the right spot, tighten bolt, turn the key on, make sure dash readout syncs up with the shifter position. Before I did this, I was one gear off (the dash said neutral when the shifter was in drive), but of course I had a new auto shifter so yours may be right on.

16) What catch can is that mounted next to the alternator? (I thought they used plastic cans like stock)
(Wait - later photo - looks like your steering reservoir. But it has a JSS bracket on it??)


Yes, that is my P/S reservoir from PSC. I had to make a custom mount for it. JSS ships a bracket that attaches to the A/C (one bolt). This bracket is about 6” long and has threaded holes for your stock 3.8 reservoir to mount in the same area where mine is. Since my can is much bigger, I reused a piece of the JSS mount (it happened to still have the JSS in it) and I plasma cut and welded a new bracket on for my can. Here is a pic. The holes are wide so that I can slide the can front to back for clearance around all the hoses in that area.



17) Was it you that wrote "do not flash" on the PCM? (We need to get some nice decals for that)

I did write “Do not flash” because I saw AEV has a nice sticker for this; however, the sPod box would cover AEV’s sticker (if I had used their kit) and the Chrysler techs would not see it. I agree that there should be a nice sticker on top, I’ll come up with something.

18) What's that big black box between your batteries?

That is my Blue Sea dual battery controller (http://bluesea.com/products/7622). It has an in-cab manual override swtich (see pic) and an under hood manual override (auto, batteries connected, & batteries isolated). I have Painless Wiring’s new digital dual battery controller in my CJ-7, but it has no overrides and the damn in-cab light constantly flashes to tell me both batteries are connected (annoying). The blue sea has lights in the carling switch (fits anywhere a carling switch will), but they are steady-on when everything is fine and blink when there is a problem. This controller is only about $160 and you only need to hook up three of the six wires (ground, led, and remote) the other three are only used in complicated marine wiring. I am impressed with this controller. In auto, it connects both batteries after 30 sec. to charge them both. Shut the vehicle off and after 30 sec. it will disconnect the two. All of your accessories are attached to the main battery, so if it gets drained the secondary will have full power when you start the vehicle. Most dual battery controllers’ work on this principal, but the overrides are awesome on the Blue Sea.



19) Does the dual battery hold down properly secure both optimas? Hard to see from the pix.

Yes, it hooks in on the body side, and the screws down on the engine side. These are not moving.


Very nice write up. Very nice. Thanks again.
No problem, keep the questions coming!

Last edited by 86CJ-07Rubi; 09-19-2011 at 03:50 PM. Reason: Updated O2 sensor info. (#11)
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post #9 of 17 Old 09-12-2011, 07:28 PM
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Man...you got a lot of people over on the Huntsville Thread salivating on their keyboards. We might have a "guinea pig" for this install within our locale here in the near future...if his experience goes anything like yours, then I am all in. The wife is going to love that!!!

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post #10 of 17 Old 09-13-2011, 06:30 AM
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Thanks for answering my questions. I have a couple clarifying ones to ask if you don't mind. This color below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86CJ-07Rubi View Post
I got a PM with some questions. I figured I would post it here so everyone can learn.

[COLOR="Silver"]WOW. GREAT write-up! This will help me a lot. Very well done.

OK - here's my questions:

4) Did you only cut the 3.8L PS hose for your cooler?

I cut the metal line part of the “hose” and I happened to still have a borrowed double flare tool that I used to flare the end because I am anal, but you shouldn’t have to, but it can’t hurt.

So if we don't have a cooler, we don't need to cut the line/hose? Or is it cut on all swaps?


6) That AC Compressor mod seems dicey. Are there any dimensions?

Where is your sense of adventure? It is really quite easy. Select a drill bit a little larger than the new bolt. You are drilling aluminum, so it will go quick and easy. Drill out enough to recess the new bolt, but leave at least a 1/4” for the bolt to pull against. Then make the Sawzall cut (or use a grinding wheel) from straight up and down.

I'm anal enough I want to mill this out on a milling machine. But your method looks a lot quicker. I suppose it's easy enough to see how deep not to go?

9) Parts list: have any part numbers?

Unfortunately no. I got to know the Dealership guys and gal pretty well. They were able to print a diagram of what I was looking for ( or you can llok up the diagrams here http://parts.mopar.com/ ) and I had the option of picking each numbered piece for them to order. They could get everything next day out of Orlando, FL, so hopefully all their warehouses are this well-stocked.

Thanks for the link. All the online parts houses are that way (i.e. not giving you PN's. I just ordered a factory parts manual off a guy on eBay - let's hope it's decent. If not, it's not a big risk. I'll gather all the part numbers. I've found www.dodge-wholesale.com to be the cheapest for parts in the past, FYI.


17) Was it you that wrote "do not flash" on the PCM? (We need to get some nice decals for that)

I did write “Do not flash” because I saw AEV has a nice sticker for this; however, the sPod box would cover AEV’s sticker (if I had used their kit) and the Chrysler techs would not see it. I agree that there should be a nice sticker on top, I’ll come up with something.

Tell you what - give me the dimensions & I'll come up with something & send you a set. You've been very helpful with all my questions.


18) What's that big black box between your batteries?

That is my Blue Sea dual battery controller
Very nice tip - I'll use that - thanks. I had had a Wrangler Power Products dual controller in my CJ, but like the way this one integrates better.
And last question: did you happen to measure the suspension droop from the Hemi? Am wonderig if I'll need a spacer & what size. Am thinking about the JKS ACOS.

2011 5.3L GM LC9 Aluminum LS V8 Conversion w/ Custom Dyno Tune
Aluminum Genright Bumpers Front & Rear - Aluminum Nemesis Rockers
PR44/RCV/Reid Front - Superior Rear - ORF Front / Poly Rear Cage - ORF Tire Carrier
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post #11 of 17 Old 09-13-2011, 07:22 AM
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Great write-up!
Aside from the extra steps with the AC compressor and the oil filter, this looks like the same procedure as my AEV DIY kit install.
The trans./t-case mount looks exactly the same.

Thanks for the in-depth instructions and pics.
It really does illustrate how relatively simple one of these swaps is, if you use a well designed kit and have some mechanical know-how.

I hope you enjoy your new found HP and TQ as much as I do!



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My new engine is a four letter word ..............
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post #12 of 17 Old 09-14-2011, 05:37 PM
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Great write up, Brandon. Now you have to wheel it and post up the pics!
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post #13 of 17 Old 09-19-2011, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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So if we don't have a cooler, we don't need to cut the line/hose? Or is it cut on all swaps?

It's cut on all swaps, you just may need to cut it in a different spot than mine. You'll attach a rubber line to your cut line and run it to your P/S reservoir.


I'm anal enough I want to mill this out on a milling machine. But your method looks a lot quicker. I suppose it's easy enough to see how deep not to go?

Yes, it is easy to known when to stop, but if you drill all the way through, good luck trying to fix it.


And last question: did you happen to measure the suspension droop from the Hemi? Am wonderig if I'll need a spacer & what size. Am thinking about the JKS ACOS.

The front doesn't seem to droop much, the rear seems to droop more (the auto trans seems twice as heavy as my old manual trans), but I have Clayton 4.5" springs and who knows how everyone else will fair. The JKS ACOS adds a minimum 2" to the rear upon installation. I don't want another 2" lift back there, or else I would have bought them. Due to the dual batteries and full fuel tank, I am leaning to the passenger side 1.5". I may have to go down to 3.5" springs and JKS ACOS and adjust the passenger side to level out.
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post #14 of 17 Old 09-25-2011, 09:27 PM
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This is great!
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post #15 of 17 Old 10-02-2011, 05:15 PM
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Uh oh. I thought I was coming down with something, and now I definitely have the HEMI bug!

RC

A lot of chit coming...

W9DRC

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post #16 of 17 Old 04-05-2013, 11:14 AM
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nice writeup, you still loving it?


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post #17 of 17 Old 06-25-2013, 01:27 PM
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thanks again for this writeup... i have referenced it several times during my swap...

my engine is in, just hooking up the little things now..

rob
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