Here we go. First write up ever. No, there are no pics because I absolutely suck at remembering to take pics.
I took a look both here and over at "that other place", and couldn't find an install write up for the Gen Right JK rear bumper...so I collaborated with a pookapotamus and we wrote one after spending six hours blundering through how to install this bumper. It worked out well for me though...I had a good excuse to buy a nice new DeWalt grinder. More tools = happy me.
1.Prime/paint/bedline/powdercoat your new bumper as desired.Sip a beverage of your choice while doing this...itíll improve the results.
2.Drink a beer.
3.Some of this stuff isnít quite going to fit the way you want it to, so repeat step 2. These directions will seem like a lot of back and forth...but I ended up having to grind a few things to make it fit because I didnít do it this way.
4.Remove your stock bumper. You wonít need to re-use any of the hardware or brackets.
5.Clean out the mud/silt/sand/pinecones that have accumulated in the middle of the frame rails.
6.If you have a factory hitch in place and will not be removing it, you will need to do two things:
a.Use a cut off disc on your grinder to trim the hitch bolts back so that they do not protrude beyond the nuts. Otherwise they will prevent the bumper from sliding fully into place.
b.Using that same cutoff disc or a sawzall, cut away a section of the bottom of the bumper that is the same width as the slot positioned where the factory hitch is located. This will allow the bumper to slide (barely) over the top of the hitch receivier. This will be TIGHT.
7.Trial fit the provided plate with nuts welded to it into the bottom of the frame rails. These plates will slide in, sitting on the bottom of the frame rails. The provided grade 8 hardware will bolt through the bumper from below, into the nuts. On my jeep, there were no holes present on the passenger side for these bolts to go through. Leave the plates in position for step 8.
8.Test fit the bumper onto the jeep. You will probably need a mallet or deadblow hammer to get it snugly into position, especially if youíve bedlined it
9.Once youíre happy with the positioning, use the provided grade 8 hardware to bolt through the bumper and frame into the plate and nuts on the driverís side. This will hold the bumper in place while you mark the holes that you will be drilling.
10.Mark two holes on the bottom of the passengerís side frame rail where the matching holes are in the bumper.
11.Remove the bumper, drill two pilot holes, and then drill out to Ĺ inch.
12.Re-insert the plates with nuts welded to them on both sides, and then test fit the bumper again.
13.Bolt up the bumper to the frame on both sides (from the bottom) .
14.Now that the bumper is properly positioned, use the holes in the outboard side of the bumper on both sides to mark the side of frame rails (total of 4 holes)
15.Remove the bumper.
16.Drill pilot holes (4) and then drill out to Ĺ inch.
17.Have another beer, youíve earned it. Iím sure your face caught a bunch of hot metal fragments while drilling.
18.If you purchased the LED backup lights for your bumper, insert them into the bumper now, but donít wire them into place yet.
19.Use a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to trim back the extra threads on the lights by at least Ĺ inch...preferably all the way back to where the epoxy filler has filled the light housing.
20.Wire the lights as desired, because you will not be able to access the backside of the bumper once itís installed.
21.Insert the grade 8 bolts from the bottom of the frame rails into the plates with the nuts welded to them. Finger tight is fine.
22.Insert the square tubes with the long nuts welded to them into the frame rails above the plates. The open end of the long nuts must be pointed outwards. Check to ensure that the holes drilled in the square tubes and the open ends of the long nuts line up with the holes in the outboard side of the frame rails.
23.Remove all of the bolts, leaving the plates and tube in place inside the frame rails.
24.Put the bumper into place on the frame rails, taking time to ensure that the wiring from step 20 is routed up over the frame cross-member to protect it and allow you to tie it in to your desired power source
25.Insert all ten bolts finger tight to ensure that everything lines up correctly.
26.One bolt at a time, remove the bolt, apply anti-seize, and then replace the bolt and torque it to the desired level of tightness. If you are going to use the recovery points built into the bumper, this is when you will slide the shackle block in and then it will be held into place when you re-insert the large bolt on each side.
27.Have another beer, youíre almost there.
28.If you are not going to use the provided recovery points, then insert the provided plastic blanks into the recovery point cutouts.
29.If you are using the LED reverse lights, tie into your desired power source at this time. There is a body mount bolt on either side of the Jeep, very close to where the frame cross-member ties into the main frame rail that makes a great ground point.
30.Have another beer (youíre not out already, are you?), take a picture of your bumper, and e-mail it to all your buddies...because youíre done!