Bestop Trektop NX Install - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 266 Old 08-13-2011, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Bestop Trektop NX Install

We just got it this week after waiting for months. Extremely happy with it. I think I'll get another one for my Jeep. This is the install for my wife's Jeep, since she has a hardtop, she wanted a softop/bikini and this seemed to fit the bill.

I thought the installation instructions were very good. The illustrations could have been better, but the step-by-step instructions worked just fine. There are a few things I've noticed that I didn't include in this thread. Please read through the instructions that came with your Trektop and refer to this thread for illustrations and advice. This thread is not intended to replace the instructions, since they are very good.

Step 1: Open the box and lay out all the pieces in the sun so they warm up and stretch out. I had them sitting in the sun about an hour and everything fit just fine. It was about 90 degrees today, so it wasn't as bad as it has been in the past few weeks (100+).















STEP 2: Install the rear support brackets for the rear retaining bar and side spring tension clips. There are 4 brackets (2 driver's side and 2 passenger's side). You'll have to cut a slit in the canvas roll bar covers. Just roll back the covers, position the bracket and cut the slit where the bracket will go through the cover. Very easy. All four brackets use existing bolts in the top of the roll bar.



My four-year-old daughter helped by unzipping the roll bar covers and handing me the ratchet.




Continued...(I reached my maximum 10 images per post).

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Last edited by taxman; 08-13-2011 at 08:36 PM.
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post #2 of 266 Old 08-13-2011, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Step 2 continued...

Another picture of the finished brackets.




Step 3: Install the door surrounds. Rears first. They install just like the factory ones. In fact, they look VERY similar to the 2011 factory surrounds.



Wow. I'm losing my hair.


Then the front.






When installing the center screw between the front and rear door surrounds, you'll also install the center bracket for the main top rail. See the bracket - the screw goes in the hole and through the rear and front door surrounds.



Install the tension bars front and rear once the door surrounds are secured. Here's a top view of the front tension bar. Installs easy and supports the top fron collecting rain, snow, etc. Some folks have said these aren't needed, but they don't bother me and can't hurt, so I left them it. They are very well built and snap into place securely.


From the bottom.


Continued...

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Last edited by taxman; 08-14-2011 at 01:53 PM.
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post #3 of 266 Old 08-13-2011, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Step 4: Install the roof and front header bar. You'll need to attach the included foam insulation stickers on the corners first. The foam is intended for fabric and probably should go on the corner edge of the fabric. However, on my OEM top, this is where I kept having leaks, so I put it on the plastic header and haven't had any leaks. I think if you put it either on the fabric or the plastic, it makes contact with the windshield channel and won't let water in either way.







Also slide the center metal rod to support the center of the top. Once the roof is installed, the rod snaps into a slot on the door surrounds.


Step 5: Secure the roof to the Jeep. The instructions say to attach the header bar first. Pay no attention to the instructions. Just leave the header bar loose above the window frame, don't latch or lock the header in place just yet. You don't want to create any tension yet. Instead, just place the canvas top above the Jeep and drag the rear of the canvas top towards the rear of the Jeep. The instructions also say to snap the center rod into place before placing the rear retaining bar. Once again, pay no attention to the instructions. Simply lay the top and center rod on the door surrounds so that the center rod is just behind the center rod support brackets. The canvas top should just be laying on top of the Jeep unsecured to anything.

Now, slide the rear retaining bar through the two brackets we attached in step 1 and then through the slot in the softtop. It helps to have a very soft top (read: warm outside to make it soft) so that the top stretches enough.





This is what it should look like on both sides once finished.




Once the rear retaining bar is installed, you can stretch the canvas top forward and latch the center rod into place. This is what it looks like when you eventually snap it in place in the door surrounds. You can also see the main top rail attached to the bracket that is screwed down between the front and rear door surrounds. It's the pivot point for the sunrider top. The rail attaches to the bracket with a quick-release type hinge. Pull on the knob, slide into the hinge plate and release the knob. The pin latches into the hole on the hinge.



You can latch the front to see how it fits and make sure it aligns properly. Note: You will have to unlatch it in the next step to install the tension springs.



Continued...

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Last edited by taxman; 04-04-2012 at 04:28 AM.
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post #4 of 266 Old 08-13-2011, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Step 6: Attach the spring tension clips. The instructions don't say this, but I found that if you unlatch the softtop and fold the sunrider portion back, the spring clips will fit right in. If it's still too tight, you can unlatch the center support rod and make it looser. Don't forget to re-attach the center rod afterwrads. Also, make sure you go under the screw that is built-in to the door surrounds.



Use the outer-most hole for now. As the top stretches, you can create more tension by moving it further in.




Here's what it looks like once it's finished and the top is locked and tight.


Step 7: Attach the inside straps to the sound bar. Self-explanatory and very easy. They attach to the existing hole where the hard top panel screws go.



Go ahead and latch and lock the header bar at the point. It's going to be a little tight, but again, if the Jeep is outside and it's warm, it's not too difficult.

You're done with the top portion at this point. I left it like this for the rest of the day since it was nice out. I'll continue the thread when we install the sides and rear windows.





I went ahead and installed the sides tonight. A little tough since the zippers are really deep dehind the door surrounds. The side towards the door and bottom attach just like the factory tops. Slide the zipper just a few inches, then snap the door-side edge inside the groove, then finish zipping and pull the the window down and snap the bottom edge in.







I'm tired. I think I'll put the rear window in tomorrow.

Total time to install was about an hour, including taking pictures and having fun with my daughter. Very easy to do and highly recommended. Took it for a drive and it works great.

One thing I haven't figured out is how to secure the sunrider top when it's opened. It looks like it just lays there with no straps or anything holding it down. I wouldn't get on the highway with it like that, but it seems fine for driving around town. The header bar is plastic, but very heavy, so it should hold the sunrider down.

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Last edited by taxman; 02-11-2012 at 09:23 AM.
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post #5 of 266 Old 08-14-2011, 05:41 AM
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it's amazing to see how far this design has come since my first gen trektop.

i wish i never saw this...the damn wheels in my head are starting to spin...

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post #6 of 266 Old 08-14-2011, 06:18 AM
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Great write-up. Looks like sunburst orange not yellow.
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post #7 of 266 Old 08-14-2011, 06:34 AM
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yeah they have changed alot in the design on the trektop and it now look slik eits worth the coin to run one....
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post #8 of 266 Old 08-14-2011, 07:52 AM
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I like how they look... like the write up too....

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post #9 of 266 Old 08-14-2011, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I've never owned an aftermarket soft top, but this one looks and feels factory. Not sure if Bestop is still manufacturing the factory soft tops for Jeeps, but it sure looks like factory to me. I got the rear window in this morning. Didn't take pics since it was raining and I was in a rush to put it on, but it's really easy and intuitive. Didn't even read the instructions and I figured it out without stumbling about. Again, it's easier to put on the rear retaining bar with the roof open in the sun rider position. Otherwise, the tension is too much and you'll rip your fingers clean off your hands trying to do it.

Thanks for the compliments on the write-up. I also installed a rugged ridge light bar with three KC Daylighters on the front of my wife's Jeep this morning. Looks great. I love working on my wife's Jeep, but I can't wait to get mine back from the shop.

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post #10 of 266 Old 08-14-2011, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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It stopped raining and I was finally able to take some pictures of the finished product in bright sunlight.













The top "rail" of the rear window tucks far up underneath the top, so there's no chance of rain getting in there. There are only two zippers on the rear window - left and right. The top uses a hard plastic snap it rail to attach to the roof portion. It's secure, but doesn't lend itself to rolling it up and letting it dangle there. Although I guess you might could do it.


This is the only complaint I have with the design of the top. The rear retaining bar has the side clips built-in. Therefore, in order to secure it to the tub, instead of snapping it in place to the clips that are securely attached to the tub, you actually need to clip the retaining bar onto the tub each time. I find that a bit cumbersome, especially if you need to open and close it to grab stuff from the back.




I love the look of the Trektop, but I have to get my wife's Jeep lifted! Those tires look so small. That's the next project.

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post #11 of 266 Old 08-14-2011, 07:09 PM
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Looks great! The new top design looks awesome!

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post #12 of 266 Old 08-16-2011, 08:35 AM
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Looks great and great write up. I should have mine within the next week! Also, do you have any pics of it with the sunrider open? And how much work will it be if you want the top completely off?
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post #13 of 266 Old 08-16-2011, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Looks great and great write up. I should have mine within the next week! Also, do you have any pics of it with the sunrider open? And how much work will it be if you want the top completely off?
Thanks. I'll take some pics this week with the sunrider open. The top is not difficult to take off if you follow the steps. If you try now, since the top is new, it's still a bit clumsy to work with.

Complete removal:

1. Pop the clamps open and pull the sunrider portion back.
2. Remove the side windows.
3. Unhook the tension springs.
4. Remove the rear retaining bar.
5. Remove the rear window.

You're done. Remember, there's no frame, so just fold the top back as you work your way to the rear window removal. The trick is to get the top to stretch out a bit. I think it'll take a good month or two before the fabric conforms to the Jeep. Also, with time, you'll pick up on some short cuts of how to put the top on and take it off.

Just for comparison, I can now put the stock top down (properly folded and including removing the rear windows) in my unlimted in about 2 minutes. It used to take me 10 minutes when I first got it.

The new Trektop is a great top. We've been very happy with it so far. Hold up well to the rain too. No leaks so far, although there is a bit of waterfall effect when you open the doors.

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post #14 of 266 Old 08-16-2011, 09:29 AM
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Thanks. I'll take some pics this week with the sunrider open. The top is not difficult to take off if you follow the steps. If you try now, since the top is new, it's still a bit clumsy to work with.

Complete removal:

1. Pop the clamps open and pull the sunrider portion back.
2. Remove the side windows.
3. Unhook the tension springs.
4. Remove the rear retaining bar.
5. Remove the rear window.

You're done. Remember, there's no frame, so just fold the top back as you work your way to the rear window removal. The trick is to get the top to stretch out a bit. I think it'll take a good month or two before the fabric conforms to the Jeep. Also, with time, you'll pick up on some short cuts of how to put the top on and take it off.

Just for comparison, I can now put the stock top down (properly folded and including removing the rear windows) in my unlimted in about 2 minutes. It used to take me 10 minutes when I first got it.

The new Trektop is a great top. We've been very happy with it so far. Hold up well to the rain too. No leaks so far, although there is a bit of waterfall effect when you open the doors.


Great, thanks for the info!
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post #15 of 266 Old 08-16-2011, 12:13 PM
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Great write up & info!

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post #16 of 266 Old 08-21-2011, 08:26 PM
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I just got caught in a rain storm with my new trektop nx and it LEAKED ? What the heck ! Has anyone else had this problem ? It's leaking on the header panel in the corner by the front door ? It looks like it seals fine. Is there a rubber seal on the front header ? Has anyone els had this problem ?
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post #17 of 266 Old 08-21-2011, 08:29 PM
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I just got caught in a rain storm with my new trektop nx and it LEAKED ? What the heck ! Has anyone else had this problem ? It's leaking on the header panel in the corner by the front door ? It looks like it seals fine. Is there a rubber seal on the front header ? Has anyone els had this problem ?
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0...0/IMG_4194.JPG
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post #18 of 266 Old 08-21-2011, 08:58 PM
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Good write-up. I used it as a reference for my install. The install was easy and I think the top is great. Also less road noise than the factory top. The front aluminum support bar doesn't even touch the canvas, so I just Took it off. I would only add that those aluminum bars are different and not interchangeable from front to rear.

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post #19 of 266 Old 08-22-2011, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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did you use the stickers that came with the top?

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post #20 of 266 Old 08-22-2011, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Good write-up. I used it as a reference for my install. The install was easy and I think the top is great. Also less road noise than the factory top. The front aluminum support bar doesn't even touch the canvas, so I just Took it off. I would only add that those aluminum bars are different and not interchangeable from front to rear.
I'm glad the write-up worked for you. You're right, the front and rear bars are not interchangeable, but they're clearly marked, front and rear. Mine don't touch the canvas either, but we left them in just in case rain pools up.

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post #21 of 266 Old 08-23-2011, 05:55 AM
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Great write-up on the install! I may be ordering mine within the next week or so.

I do have a question, though. I know the new top comes with the door surrounds and bulit-in header bar, but does it come with the tailgate bar, too, or do I need to buy that separately?

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post #22 of 266 Old 08-23-2011, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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Great write-up on the install! I may be ordering mine within the next week or so.

I do have a question, though. I know the new top comes with the door surrounds and bulit-in header bar, but does it come with the tailgate bar, too, or do I need to buy that separately?
The Trektop NX comes complete with everything you will need to install the complete top. The only thing it does not come with are storage pouches or window rolls to protect the rear windows when removed, rolled and stored away. The quality of the materials, fit and finish of the Trektop NX are excellent - same as or better than factory. The Trektop NX comes with everything you see here:



Starting at the top of the picture, the straight aluminum bar is the rear retaining bar, the round black pipe is the center retaining bar that slips through the sewn-in loops in the canvas top, the two aluminum arched support bars are the removable center supports for the canvas top (to prevent sagging from collected rain, snow, etc), then the rear door surrounds, the front door surrounds and the tailgate bar is at the bottom of the picture. In the center is all the hardware.

The header bar comes from factory attached to the canvas top shown here:



Hope this helps.

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post #23 of 266 Old 08-23-2011, 07:14 AM
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Perfect! Guess I don't need to buy one after all then.

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post #24 of 266 Old 08-23-2011, 08:18 AM
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I agree that the tailgate bar is the last issue that still needs work. Like I said, I have the first gen...I recently started using the bestop tailgate bar after getting rid of my stock tailgate bar, and the design is horrible. This last trip out, I was trying to get the bestop bar off but because it was so cold, the plastic ended up being very unbendable and brittle. Well, wouldn't you know it, I go to snap it off and instead of coming off, the bar popped off and busted the rivets of the clips.

Now I have to either re-rivet the damn thing or figure out if I can fit small enough bolts in there. What a stupid design

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post #25 of 266 Old 08-23-2011, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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I agree that the tailgate bar is the last issue that still needs work. Like I said, I have the first gen...I recently started using the bestop tailgate bar after getting rid of my stock tailgate bar, and the design is horrible. This last trip out, I was trying to get the bestop bar off but because it was so cold, the plastic ended up being very unbendable and brittle. Well, wouldn't you know it, I go to snap it off and instead of coming off, the bar popped off and busted the rivets of the clips.

Now I have to either re-rivet the damn thing or figure out if I can fit small enough bolts in there. What a stupid design
I'm wondering the same thing. I think if the rivets popped off though, Bestop should be able to replace it under warranty. These tops have a lifetime warranty on materials. I think they would be accomodating if you ask politely.

I'd like to try to fit the stock tailgate bar on the Trektop. If I can somehow manage to get the Trektop rear window to fit in a stock rear bar, I'd be set.

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