DIY: Steering Stabilizer Relocation - Tools:Drill, bits, cutting wheel - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 08-05-2011, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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DIY: Steering Stabilizer Relocation - Tools:Drill, bits, cutting wheel


Here is the template, I have no idea if this works. PM me if you can't get it to work.

TRY THIS LINK FOR THE TEMPLATE - 9/17/12
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pl1i07s6f...D/DIYmount.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/file/79rc42...9/DIYmount.pdf


This is a mount that a friend of mine and I came up with. This is not measured off of anyone elses, or anything like that. This is completely home brewed.

You will need to have some sort of bump stop installed otherwise your SS will hit the frame on full compression. Not that I've done that or anything


Materials:
(1) 3/16" steel plate, 7"long 3.25" high to start with (3" wide will work and is available at local stores)

(2) Grade 8 3/8"-16 bolts, mine are 1" long because thats what I found locally. Can be cut after for aesthetics. Use a lock washer and nut.

(1) 1/2"-18 bolt, 3" underhead length, two nuts, four washers. THIS BOLT MUST FIT THROUGH YOUR CURRENT STABILIZER OR ADJUST THE BOLT/HOLE SIZE ACCORDINGLY!

Tools:
Drill - 1/2" chuck
9/16" bit
3/8" bit
1/2" bit (or whatever size you find works for your stabilizer, can vary)
cutting wheel/ or some method to cut steel
grinder (not "necessary", but will help it look a lot better rounding the edges)

Alright I have attempted to attach a .pdf file of the drawing. This can be printed at 100% scale and used as a straight template. Centerline of the holes are dead on to what I have used. So hopefully that works for you.

Cut the initial shape (green lines) and that will be your starting piece. Locate the holes as shown in the dimensions of the drawing, (use a micrometer to find the centerpoint, or line up the template!). Drill your holes, use cutting oil, go slow!



From here it's up to you on rounding the edges, or trying to clean up the steel some, but that is basically it.

Remove the track bar bolt, 22mm? can't recall off the top of my head. This WILL NEED TO BE TORQUED TO 125FT/LB UPON REINSTALLATION. The two 3/8" bolts go in holes that are already there in the factory track bar mount. The 1/2" bolt I go through the stabilizer first, then through the bracket, using the two nuts to pinch it to the bracket. Since fully threaded 1/2" bolts aren't very common, thats what works.

You will need to flip the stock SS mount on the tie rod around. Loosen the U-bolts and rotate it around, you will also need to adjust where you clamp it on the tie rod. With the mount loosened turn the wheels completely to the right. (have a friend hold it to make up for the extra little bit you will get). Leave about 3/8" (minimum) of the shaft visible on the stabilizer, retighten the clamps.


Hope it works for you! If not, I will always have thought it would

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post #2 of 29 Old 08-16-2011, 09:18 AM
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NICE!
I have been staring at my stabilizer and different products online for ideas, taking half assed measurements, and drawing out different ideas for a while now.

Hows is working for you?

Thanks for posting the template
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post #3 of 29 Old 08-17-2011, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spookylynx View Post
NICE!
I have been staring at my stabilizer and different products online for ideas, taking half assed measurements, and drawing out different ideas for a while now.

Hows is working for you?

Thanks for posting the template
I ran it for well over a year, my only issue was hitting the stabilizer on the frame since I have factory bump stops. If you have ~2" bump stops you won't have any contact issues. You could also probably put the stud on the other end.

I know have a RK drag link and RK tie rod so I don't have the template design on my rig anymore. But it worked out pretty well.


You can see the ding in the SS from where it was mounted with this template and no extended bump stops. So if you have stock stops, expect the ding or move the 1/2" bolt hole more towards the center of the Jeep.


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post #4 of 29 Old 10-03-2011, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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checked the .pdf link for the template. First said it didn't work, second time I clicked it the computer told me "it may harm, are you sure, yada yada" opened up fine on my computer. Still works, it's hell what you get for free!

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post #5 of 29 Old 10-12-2011, 03:40 AM
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I like this mod. How many folks have done this? Does it hold up to the rigors of wheeling?

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post #6 of 29 Old 03-11-2012, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numb_crna View Post
I like this mod. How many folks have done this? Does it hold up to the rigors of wheeling?
Just noticed this question, yes it holds up fine to the "rigors" of wheelin. The steering stabilizer doesn't demand much out of a mount..

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post #7 of 29 Old 03-18-2012, 05:35 PM
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Goody, where do you have the SS axle mount attached in the above pic? As you know, I had the issue installing the Synergy relocation bracket with the RK drag link, now is the set up you have here, in the above pic with the RK drag link, an alternative to the custom fab'd mount you have welded next to the driver side control arm mount that I had asked you about recently?

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post #8 of 29 Old 03-18-2012, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlynch2 View Post
Goody, where do you have the SS axle mount attached in the above pic? As you know, I had the issue installing the Synergy relocation bracket with the RK drag link, now is the set up you have here, in the above pic with the RK drag link, an alternative to the custom fab'd mount you have welded next to the driver side control arm mount that I had asked you about recently?
The pictures of my rig in this thread are all before the RK drag link, so they have a factory drag link. This setup will not work with the RK drag link with a below knuckle configuration.

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post #9 of 29 Old 03-18-2012, 05:42 PM
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good write up.


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post #10 of 29 Old 03-18-2012, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
I ran it for well over a year, my only issue was hitting the stabilizer on the frame since I have factory bump stops. If you have ~2" bump stops you won't have any contact issues. You could also probably put the stud on the other end.

I know have a RK drag link and RK tie rod so I don't have the template design on my rig anymore. But it worked out pretty well.


You can see the ding in the SS from where it was mounted with this template and no extended bump stops. So if you have stock stops, expect the ding or move the 1/2" bolt hole more towards the center of the Jeep.

This isnt the RK drag link?

2008 Black 2Dr 6spd D30/44
RK 2.5 X-Factor | Synergy tie rod | 35x12.5 MTRK's | BFH front | Genright rear | Yukon 5.13's | ARB front locker | Warn M8000 w/MasterPull synthetic | Rigid 10'' E-series
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post #11 of 29 Old 03-18-2012, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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I overlooked that and just looked at the initial post. That bracket is nothing like the one being discussed in this thread and worked temporarily. Ultimately had flex clearance problems, but worked for the street. Hence the driver's side mount.

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post #12 of 29 Old 03-18-2012, 08:53 PM
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I stated this in another thread about the relocation kit, if you reverse the stabilizer and place the body out by the tie rod, you can eliminate stabilizer body contact with the frame and the dent in the stabilizer. With the Poly bracket which sits even higher than Goody's I put a small dent in the stock stabilizer because I didn't want to run bumpstops and limit my travel disconnected. If I had reversed it, I would have never dented it. Never dawned on me to do that at the time.

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post #13 of 29 Old 03-28-2012, 07:10 PM
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Just made one and slapped it on yesterday. Followed all Goody's measurements and it worked perfectly (running 3.5" bumpstops)

Thanks for the original writeup Goody
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post #14 of 29 Old 03-28-2012, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Nice!


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post #15 of 29 Old 08-19-2012, 06:23 AM
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Thought I would give you a shout out.
I used your idea to make a SS relo bracket. I had a couple of Rube Goldberg designs in my head and then I saw yours. Simple and way more effective. Thanks.
Here's what I did.
And here.

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post #16 of 29 Old 08-19-2012, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
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Very nice, that should work out just fine!

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post #17 of 29 Old 09-17-2012, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Try this link for this downloading the template

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pl1i07s6f...D/DIYmount.pdf

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post #18 of 29 Old 10-10-2012, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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original post updated

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post #19 of 29 Old 06-18-2013, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post

Here is the template, I have no idea if this works. PM me if you can't get it to work.

TRY THIS LINK FOR THE TEMPLATE - 9/17/12
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pl1i07s6f...D/DIYmount.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/file/79rc42...9/DIYmount.pdf


This is a mount that a friend of mine and I came up with. This is not measured off of anyone elses, or anything like that. This is completely home brewed.

You will need to have some sort of bump stop installed otherwise your SS will hit the frame on full compression. Not that I've done that or anything


Materials:
(1) 3/16" steel plate, 7"long 3.25" high to start with (3" wide will work and is available at local stores)

(2) Grade 8 3/8"-16 bolts, mine are 1" long because thats what I found locally. Can be cut after for aesthetics. Use a lock washer and nut.

(1) 1/2"-18 bolt, 3" underhead length, two nuts, four washers. THIS BOLT MUST FIT THROUGH YOUR CURRENT STABILIZER OR ADJUST THE BOLT/HOLE SIZE ACCORDINGLY!

Tools:
Drill - 1/2" chuck
9/16" bit
3/8" bit
1/2" bit (or whatever size you find works for your stabilizer, can vary)
cutting wheel/ or some method to cut steel
grinder (not "necessary", but will help it look a lot better rounding the edges)

Alright I have attempted to attach a .pdf file of the drawing. This can be printed at 100% scale and used as a straight template. Centerline of the holes are dead on to what I have used. So hopefully that works for you.

Cut the initial shape (green lines) and that will be your starting piece. Locate the holes as shown in the dimensions of the drawing, (use a micrometer to find the centerpoint, or line up the template!). Drill your holes, use cutting oil, go slow!



From here it's up to you on rounding the edges, or trying to clean up the steel some, but that is basically it.

Remove the track bar bolt, 22mm? can't recall off the top of my head. This WILL NEED TO BE TORQUED TO 125FT/LB UPON REINSTALLATION. The two 3/8" bolts go in holes that are already there in the factory track bar mount. The 1/2" bolt I go through the stabilizer first, then through the bracket, using the two nuts to pinch it to the bracket. Since fully threaded 1/2" bolts aren't very common, thats what works.

You will need to flip the stock SS mount on the tie rod around. Loosen the U-bolts and rotate it around, you will also need to adjust where you clamp it on the tie rod. With the mount loosened turn the wheels completely to the right. (have a friend hold it to make up for the extra little bit you will get). Leave about 3/8" (minimum) of the shaft visible on the stabilizer, retighten the clamps.


Hope it works for you! If not, I will always have thought it would

Sorry, to bring old write up back. But, it looks like the nut for the 3/8 bolt, that is under track bar will hit when you compress the suspension on the pass side. Anyone, including op have a problem with this?
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post #20 of 29 Old 06-18-2013, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunDude View Post
Sorry, to bring old write up back. But, it looks like the nut for the 3/8 bolt, that is under track bar will hit when you compress the suspension on the pass side. Anyone, including op have a problem with this?
Mine is shaped slightly different than Goody's, but bolts up the same way.

There is no interference with the 3/8" bolts. It's close, but no contact under flex.

Attachment 68523

.

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post #21 of 29 Old 06-18-2013, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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The bolts could be flipped as well for more clearance.

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post #22 of 29 Old 07-04-2013, 10:27 AM
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I just made this bracket and the holes did not line up on my 11' JK. I printed the template, then glued it the steel and had fried cut and drill it out.

Last edited by GunDude; 11-24-2013 at 11:28 PM.
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post #23 of 29 Old 07-04-2013, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Have you printed a template and held it up? I've done a few off that and they've lined up fine.


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post #24 of 29 Old 07-04-2013, 12:37 PM
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I printed out the template and glued it on the 3/16" metal plate to cut it out of. So, I am wondering if Jeep changed the bracket hole dims on newer JK's, say 11' on up?
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post #25 of 29 Old 07-04-2013, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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None of the aftermarket bolt-on track bar brackets or SS mounts are different between 2011+ and older JKs that use the same holes.

So I'd say no.


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